S-plus doesn't operate

[jay]

A code 12 WILL prevent the slot from working.
I am concerned that he does not have anything in the winner paid / Credits windows that shows this.
This is why I asked for him to check the fuses.

In absence of the proper lithium battery (and I later bought a box of them from Wayne - A69mopar) I temporarily used a RadioShack battery holder with two 1.5 AA batteries. I had to extend the wires as there was not room in the tray to cleanly close it so it kind of hung out (bush league) until I got the proper battery but it did the trick temporarily. You can also find 3.5v lithium (quarter sized) batteries at Ikea but the holders are hard to come by and batteries don't take solder well. Its also dangerous to solder directly to a battery due to the heat can cause them to expand and leak or explode.

The white center Molex usually prevents the center 25c logo and other displays from coming on. I think we should focus on this until we get the tell tale 12 showing up in the display. Alternatively you can repeatedly press the white test switch and there should be a bunch of things that show up and cycle through. I predict none of that is working at this point.

The florescent bulbs or their starters (little metal can) could easily be burnt out so I would not worry about this either until you get your other displays lit. If your top box (reel) is lit - you can try moving that bulb down to the bottom and see if it comes on. To swap the starters you gently push down and turn there are two studs that hold it in place. It pops right out. You can get bulbs and starters at home depot.  Like I said if one is lit and the other isn't you can figure out pretty quickly if its a bulb or starter or both.

[rokgpsman]

.....ok. I have 1 blown fuse.  I'll replace it in the morning and see if anything changes.  I did mess with the while molex plug while it was on, no change.  I switched fuses between 2 spots.

Let us know which fuse (F# or which voltage) this was that blew. That could help to track down what is causing it to blow.

Also, be sure to install the correct size fuse when you replace it, don't just automatically put in whatever size blew. Someone may have installed the wrong size. There is usually a sticker next to each fuse that tells you what size the fuse should be.

.

[CabinetDan]

OK, morning update. And thank you all very much by the way!!


Apparently my theory about the 1 fuse not causing ALL of the problems was flawed.  The center fuse 8A was blown.  Replaced with a 5A and turned it on.  Got the 12 code in the winner paid box.  Then I had a AA battery holder here, so soldered that in ant got 3.1V to the board.  put it back together.  Code 12 gone, BUT got a b1 code now.  Plus the "winner" light on top is lit up.  Feeling a bit more optimistic today.
The closeup Pic of the code didn't come out.  it is definitely a b1

[CabinetDan]

OK, make that a 61, LOL.


A little research told me to hold the self test button for 3 seconds.  Assuming that that is the button below the coin comparitor, I did that and got nothing

[rokgpsman]

You've made good progress on this machine!   

When you get a chance you will need to make sure all 3 fuses are the correct size. When the machine is operating fully and some extra stuff starts working, like the hopper or bill validator, or all the reels spinning then extra elec power will be used, so the 8 amp fuse (along with the other fuses) need to be the correct size. Using the 5 amp fuse in place of the 8 amp won't endanger anything but it may blow and be a nuisance for you. And as you know don't want to ever install a fuse that is larger than what is spec'd, that could allow wiring to burn up if there was a short somewhere.

The error display "b1" you are getting is an unknown error code to me.

Have you been able to press the little button on the coin optic board below the coin comparitor and put test credits on the machine? If so try pressing the Spin button on front to see if the reels will spin. EDIT- you won't be able to do this until you get the error 61 fixed.

Also, somewhere inside your machine is a white TEST button. This is the main TEST/Setup button for the machine. It is often located near or behind the power switch. You will need to find this white TEST button for some test/setup things later. If you can't find this white TEST button we can help locate it.

[rokgpsman]

OK, make that a 61, LOL.

A little research told me to hold the self test button for 3 seconds.  Assuming that that is the button below the coin comparitor, I did that and got nothing

ok, error 61 is more like it!      These are digital displays on the front of the machine, so the number shown can look kinda squarish. Remember, this is 1980's tech stuff. And sometimes there is a flaky connection and one of the display's individual segments won't light up.

The white TEST button they are referring to is NOT the little button on the coin optic board. There is another button that is the primary TEST and Setup button. Look inside the machine, maybe near the power switch or near the metal chassis where the fuses or wiring harnesses plugin, near the mpu board. And on some models it is behind the power switch, you have to feel back there to find it. EDIT- from your photos posted earlier I can see your white TEST button near the power switch.

Error 61 refers to the cmos ram data. It is normal for it to appear after the battery is replaced. Your research has probably told you what to do to clear the error 61 but if you need help let us know.

[rokgpsman]

Here is your machine's main TEST button (see photo below).

(that other button switch on the coin optics board is just for adding test credits to the machine, it doesn't do anything else)

Also, attached below is the handy IGT S+ Diagnostic Cards (in pdf format) that has just about everything you need to know to setup and test your machine. Look on page 7 for the error codes and what to do about them.

And here is a good NLG page showing S+ error codes and what to do about them:
http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/

[CabinetDan]

Small test button next to the power switch does nothing.
BUT.
now, when I close the door and hit the reset, there is a click, and the play lever unlocks.  Get 9s all the way across the display, in til I pull the lever.  then the "coins played" just counts upward to 5 as I pull the lever.  The 61 goes away until it gets plugged back in

[CabinetDan]

Also the "winner" light on top still flashes all the time.
Do I need to get clear chips?

[rokgpsman]

Also the "winner" light on top still flashes all the time.
Do I need to get clear chips?

I know you are anxious to get the machine working, that's understandable, I would be too! But let's wait a bit to see what others here have to say. There are a lot of folks here that have lots of experience, it is good to hear from them to know what's best. Sometimes new slot owners get in too big of a hurry and cause additional problems for themself. Patience is sometimes needed when working thru the problems the machine has. You've basically woken this machine up from the dead, there will be a few things to deal with, and the CLEAR chip won't take care of many of them.

If you plan to keep this machine it is a good idea to get the Clear and Set chips because you may need them some day and the chips are not very costly. But you never want to do a Clear process unless it is really needed. It does NOT fix many problems and can cause more problems for the novice owner. So hold off on doing the Clear until someone here says it is time to do it. But if you want to buy the Set and Clear chips so you will have them if/when needed go ahead.

Take a few minutes and read this (below). It was written by one of the experienced guys here on NLG and is approved of by many others, so is important to know:

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=516.msg1724#msg1724

[CabinetDan]

Thanks.  I did read that earlier.  I get anxious when there is progress, even though I still have other work to do to it.  I just don't want to start cleaning it up and relaminating the outside until it works properly

[rokgpsman]

Small test button next to the power switch does nothing.
BUT.
now, when I close the door and hit the reset, there is a click, and the play lever unlocks.  Get 9s all the way across the display, in til I pull the lever.  then the "coins played" just counts upward to 5 as I pull the lever.  The 61 goes away until it gets plugged back in

This sounds like you have actually entered the TEST/Setup menus and have the machine in one of the diagnostic tests. Or you have entered the "Stat/Bookkeeping" mode. When you press the TEST button (by the power switch) the front displays should show you the menu steps, they are numbered. Pressing the white TEST button repeatedly will step thru the various menu pages. You can close the main door at any time and that will get the machine out of the "Test/Setup" mode, no need to worry about exiting it the wrong way. The reset switch is used within the TEST menus to do certain functions. See the IGT document for your mpu board's SP chip.

The TEST menu steps your machine has will depend on the SP chip that is located on the mpu board. There are 2 socketed chips on the mpu, one is the SP chip and the other is the SS chip. There should be labels on the top of the chips with the IGT chip number. If you know your SP chip number then we can give you the information about what your machine's Test & Setup menu steps and options are.

[rokgpsman]

Thanks.  I did read that earlier.  I get anxious when there is progress, even though I still have other work to do to it.  I just don't want to start cleaning it up and relaminating the outside until it works properly

Some of the knowledgeable folks here on NLG that help answer difficult problems have businesses that keep them busy. And others have daytime jobs. So often these experts aren't able to login and help until the evening time. So sometimes it can be a few hours or even overnight before you get the good advice and suggestions needed. I've gone about as far as my experience can help, so let's be patient and see what the other folks have to say. You've done well so far and your machine's problems will get figured out.

[CabinetDan]

After hitting the reset, the lever unlocks, but the test button still doesn't do anything.

Are these the chips that you are referring to?

Would the fact that my temp battery setup is only putting 3.04V be an issue?

I actually have to leave for the weekend here in a few hours, so I have time to wait for some more answers, and I should probably get my own butt out into the shop and get some actual work done myself.
Thanks again so far everyone!

[rokgpsman]

.....Are these the chips that you are referring to?

Yes, those are the chips. They are the primary ones that make your machine operate.

Here is the NLG info page for your machine. You can see in the chart that SS6193 chip has a 95% player payback percentage. And in the "Stops" column you can see the reel strips code "AAB". That mean the strips on reel#1 and reel#2 are identical, but reel#3 has a different strip. The strips need to be in the proper order, left to right, for the symbols to display correctly at the end of the spin. In this case the reel #1 and #2 strips are the same. And near the top of the page under the name of the game you can see that your machine is what IGT calls a "Type 20" game. This is IGT's way of categorizing the games with specific playing features. There are many game Types. What you need to know about this is that your SP810 chip is compatible with Type 20 games. So if you ever replaced the SP chip (to get better game features or Test/Diagnostic features) with another one of a different number it needs to be compatible with Type 20 games.

http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Spin%20Double%20Diamond%20(3%20Coin%20M.htm


Below is the document that explains all the Test & Setup options that SP810 chip has:

[rokgpsman]

.....after hitting the reset, the lever unlocks, but the test button still doesn't do anything.
Are these the chips that you are referring to?

Would the fact that my temp battery setup is only pusting 3.04V be an issue?

I Actually have to leave for the weekend here in a few hours, so I have time to wait for some more answers, and I should probably get my own but out into the shop and get some actual work done myself.
Thanks again so far everyone!

I'm not clear on what lever you are referring to that unlocks? Do you mean the pull handle on the side of the machine? If so, yes it does have a locking solenoid that keeps it locked until it is appropriate to be pulled. That may be the sound you are hearing.

A battery voltage of 3 volts is getting into the marginal area, I think 2.9 volts is about as low as they are supposed to go and not cause problems. So I don't know if your battery setup is causing any of the problems. If you can get the 3.6 volt battery installed that will eliminate that possibility.

If pressing the white TEST button has never done anything on the machine then you may want to make sure it is connected to its wires. And if needed you can check if the white TEST button switch is ok with your meter. They don't often go bad but I guess it could happen.

I *think* the normal procedure for TEST mode is to open the door and press the white TEST button, watch the front display to see what menu step you are on. Then press the white TEST button again to go to the next menu step. You don't turn the reset switch on the side of the machine until you get to a step where you want to go into substeps.

Also, with the door closed if you turn the reset switch you will go into the stats and bookkeeping screens. So don't let that  confuse you.

[Amechanic]

I have seen then games do weird things if you don’t have a good battery voltage and MHz. They usually work till the battery drops to 2.8/3V. I then have seen games that don’t and the battery is just over 3V.

[jay]

Short answer you should get a SET and a CLEAR chip.
The Set is to enable the bill validator. This is commonly used when you make game changes or after a clear.
The clear chip is rarely used. However if your buying one get both as shipping will exceed the cost of the chip.


If you have found the white test button then you should be able to change your 61 to a 61-1
This then moves towards game activation.


On occasion after a battery change you get to a 61 loop. This is where you get a followed by 61-1 then back to a 61 again, rinse and repeat.


So far I have not heard you have moved on from a 61.
Subsequently I would not recommend using a clear at this time.


I would like to refer you to the NLG home page.
On the right hand side you will find RICKs FAQ and all the very detailed steps to go from the 61 Forward.
This is just where we have some great documentation so don’t read this as us sending you away.
Please continue to post your progress and challenges here and everyone will continue to assist.


Btw - most of us are not in the casino industry and this is our hobby too.
I am going camping for the Aug long weekend here in Canada so you might not see any posts from me until Tuesday.

[rokgpsman]

.....Btw - most of us are not in the casino industry and this is our hobby too.
I am going camping for the Aug long weekend here in Canada so you might not see any posts from me until Tuesday.

Have a good outing, but watch out for those other residents!@

[rickhunter]

Pushing the white button to clear the 61 is the correct procedure, but you have to hold the button down for 2 to 3 seconds, just pushing it does nothing. Here's the chart of the common S+ errors and how to clear them.

http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors/