HERE it is!! My Bally JACKPOT ONLY machine.

[shortrackskater]

I just picked it up today. I need to replace the power cord before I plug it in. It's an E series and I've never had one. The previous owner said it worked but has sat in his amazingly fancy game room that's mostly empty now. The house is for sale ... asking just $2,500,000!
I'll post again soon as I plug it in and see what blows up happens.

[rokgpsman]

You know, if you'd bought that house they'd probably given you that slot machine. just saying.......   

[shortrackskater]

You know, if you'd bought that house they'd probably given you that slot machine. just saying.......   

I need to save up just a little more, like maybe $2,499,500.

So yep it's an E series. When I got there and peeked inside I saw the circuit boards but this was a done deal since I bought this machine and a Mills (yes Mills) video poker machine for $250 (package deal!).
I tried to cycle the machine and it was jamming and the handle wouldn't return. I put some pressure on it and it sort of ratcheted back up. The next cycle it went down farther but the reel mechanism did nothing.
Anyway... long story short, I finally noticed the damn handle return cylinder was gummed up with the black stick mess. I think I'm losing my mind as I've helped people with this exact problem and wasn't seeing the obvious. Hopefully my "slight forcing" hasn't damaged anything. I took the f-ing thing out and had to whack on the housing with my mallet as I sprayed WD40 to loosen that shit inside. It's unbelievable how strong that gunk holds and jams the piston head inside. Someone ought to develop it as an adhesive!
I finally got it free and, in the process, managed to break both left side tabs where the screws go through. I should just order a new one but I'm going to see if the screws will hold it enough. Now I need to go get some tar remover at the hardware or auto parts store to get that crap out of the head.   

[smoothgrh]

Beautiful machine! The color and design of the belly glass looks as if it was made to match the rest of the machine! And I love that casino logo artwork!

Hope you can easily get it to work!

[Amechanic]

Mark.. I have found the rubbing alcohol works great to loosen that sticky crap... I can find you a new air cylinder housing if you need one.. That machines a steal for what you paid.. Seems like all the good deals are out West..

That looks like it's going to have the E1000 MPU board. Check the battery on the ram board for signs of acid leakage. It will kill the ram board and the header pin connectors on the ram board.. I here if you need help getting it going 

[shortrackskater]

Thanks Gary ... I'll PM you soon.
Yes basically I paid $125 for it I guess! People out here nearly give them away. I got a nearly new condition s2000 for $100 once with matching wood stand. 
I'll try the alcohol. I'm amazed how "STUCK-ON" that crap is! 

[GOS]

another good product to remove the rubber residue is GREASED LIGHTNING available Home Depot and Lowes.   

[shortrackskater]

another good product to remove the rubber residue is GREASED LIGHTNING available Home Depot and Lowes.

Thanks Barry! I tried "Goo Gone" it it didn't do anything. Gary suggest the isopropyl alcohol and worked. I'll still get some Greased Lightning for future "messes." 

[shortrackskater]

Last night I got off that horrible "tar" (more like tar that's 1000 times stronger than regular tar) off the piston head. I filed a burr off the piston head and applied just a small amount of axle grease around it. I cleaned the cylinder and put the head back on the rod and it seems to glide through with "good resistance."  I mounted it back on the side of the reel assembly even with the left-side tabs broken. There was enough for the screws to hold it in place. The right-side tabs were fine. I reinstalled the reel assembly and it seems to work fine. The handle pulls properly and returns smoothly.
The machine still didn't work so the next logical step for me was, of course, to fix the lights! 
All the bulbs were bad as well as two starters. Thankfully I've got all sorts of florescent bulbs and starters in my stock. The machine is happily lit now.
When I power up now I get an error code 6 and according to the manual that's memory test failure which (I'm guessing/hoping) it's that piggybacked RAM board on the MPU board. The battery is dead. I left the machine on for about a half hour and checked again powered off and still had no voltage. Gary... is that a nicad? I think you told me... I'll poke around the E-series section and see but if anyone knows offhand, please let me know.

[rokgpsman]

Take a look at that piggy-back board that has the cmos ram and battery. Check the connector pins on it that are used to plug into the main mpu board. See if any of those pins have cracked solder joints where they are soldered on the piggy-back board. But the error might just be because of the dead battery. I think the original ones were nicad but someone posted a way to use a different battery.

[shortrackskater]

I did. It was a pain to realign them to get it back on.
I just saw a reference to the post on using a different battery but don't see the actual post yet. I have plenty of 3.6 cells for the s plus. I'd love to use one of those.

[shortrackskater]

Ok I just found a HUGE thread on this machine and some problems that I may be having. Before I post any more here, I'm going to read through this and follow the steps especially in regard to those connectors.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=5843.0

[Amechanic]

Usually a 6 means a bad ram chip or chip socket. Look at the 5101 ram chips and sockets on the Ram Board for and green corrosion. It’s a very common problem with them mounted so close to the battery. I have also found that a bad power supply will trigger this code too. Try unplugging and plugging the PS connector a couple times. Look for any burnt plug connections. You might want to pull the PS and look at the solder joints on the plug connection. Very common for them to crack causing a cold solder joint. You can convert from a rechargeable AA battery to Lithium, but you need to do a board Mod if removing a resistor and installing a diode to stop the battery charging circuit.

[rokgpsman]

I did. It was a pain to realign them to get it back on.
I just saw a reference to the post on using a different battery but don't see the actual post yet. I have plenty of 3.6 cells for the s plus. I'd love to use one of those.

I think that orig nicad battery is 4.5 volts (check the writing on it). If so and if you sub another battery or a battery pack you will want to keep that in mind. The mod adds a diode so the battery voltage gets dropped about .7 volts by the diode, so the cmos ram chip would get less than 3 volts if you install a 3.6 volt battery.

Can you post a photo of the Mills video poker machine (maybe in a different thread). I didn't know that Mills did anything recent like that.

[Amechanic]

I did. It was a pain to realign them to get it back on.
I just saw a reference to the post on using a different battery but don't see the actual post yet. I have plenty of 3.6 cells for the s plus. I'd love to use one of those.

I think that orig nicad battery is 4.5 volts (check the writing on it). If so and if you sub another battery or a battery pack you will want to keep that in mind. The mod adds a diode so the battery voltage gets dropped about .7 volts by the diode, so the cmos ram chip would get less than 3 volts if you install a 3.6 volt battery.

These use a 3.6v Ni-Cad. 

[rokgpsman]

ok. But still after the mod the diode will reduce the 3.6 volt battery voltage to 2.9 volts and it will then drop further as time goes by. Is that too low, or would it be better to use a battery holder with 3 cells totaling 4.5 volts, so you will get 3.8 volts to the cmos chip? How low can the voltage go on the 5101 ram chip before it loses data? The 5101L cmos chips will work ok down as low as 2.0 volts, but I don't know about the standard 5101.

https://www.jameco.com/z/5101-Major-Brands-5101-Family-256-x-4-bit-Static-CMOS-RAM_42198.html

[Amechanic]

I’m just going by what I’ve done and been taught to do. It’s Posted here or on the old sight. These games don’t relay on the battery to run like the newer slots do. It’s usually just for book keeping. I’ve seen them still work with less then 1V. The diode is installed to only break the charging circuit.

[GOS]

the 6 is usually the POWER SUPPLY - check the voltages on the test loops - and also just try reseating the power supply connector.  Also the bottom 2 wires/connection usually go bad.  BATTERY IS NOT THE PROBLEM!!!   use the nicad!!!

[shortrackskater]

Before I got all these replies, I reseated all the IC's and connectors (and the RAM board)  on the MPU board. I think one connector pin on a ribbon cable is getting weak but It held when I plugged it back in. No change.

Now I'm at the power supply and the connector is quite burnt looking. Should I just replace out all those pins now just to rule it out? I unplugged it twice and sprayed some contact cleaner on both ends but no change.
Sorry, ignorant question here... what voltages am I looking for and are the loops all on the p/s board? I'm not at the machine now... have to work! Ugh!
I'll get back to it tonight. 

[Amechanic]

That plugs toasty..   This is what I would do, buy the replacement plug and connectors off EBay along with the correct battery. Both come from the same vender so shipping should be combined. You will need the correct crimping tool for the connectors. From what I can see it looks like some connectors in the plug are half way out. I’m sure those connection have lost there spring tension. If that plugs burnt like that, I’m sure you have cold solder joint on the PS and possiblie the header pins on the PS done have much tin plating on the pins.
For the PS voltage you should have 5V, 7.5V, and 10V. You will see 4 loops on the PS. The 4th is a ground.