Author Topic: HERE it is!! My Bally JACKPOT ONLY machine. (Read 9914 times)

shortrackskater · « **Reply #40 on:** August 18, 2018, 04:34:25 PM »

Resistor in Reel #2 board is too hot to touch. LED on, reel #1 and #3 - no light, no hot as hell resistor.

Amechanic · « **Reply #41 on:** August 18, 2018, 05:25:21 PM »

I guess I have not been thinking straight. You having a E1000 means you have the 50v reel readers that light up. The resistor on those readers will get extreamly hot if left on.

Badbaud · « **Reply #42 on:** August 18, 2018, 05:40:32 PM »

I don't recall there being any visible LED on any voltage version (5V or 50V) of the reel reader.
There are some visible incandescent lamps on the 50V reel reader but it doesn't make sense that only one reel reader is lit because they are all turned on at once during a read via one triac on the I/O board.
If there was a short providing 50V to that one reader the other two would be on also as the 50V line is daisy chained to all 3 reader cards.

Amechanic · « **Reply #43 on:** August 18, 2018, 05:58:44 PM »

I have had a bulb short out in a way that only one reader was not lit. I was not thinking clearly when it was mentioned that an LED was on. I first thought of how the 5V readers led will pulse when lit, but you need a camera to see this.

Badbaud · « **Reply #44 on:** August 18, 2018, 06:03:15 PM »

Reel 1 and 3 may both have an open lamp.
Ohm each lamp out and they should read about 10 Ohms.
The one that reads infinity is the open lamp.

Badbaud · « **Reply #45 on:** August 18, 2018, 06:21:40 PM »

It could be Q32 is shorted and the one remaining lit reel reader is the only one that has not given up a lamp yet.
see attached.

Amechanic · « **Reply #46 on:** August 18, 2018, 07:03:15 PM »

Need to figure out the 6 in the win meter first. I want him to fix the badly burnt PS plug and replace the ribbon cable. If the 6 is still there then he has a bad ram chip. Fix this problem then we can move on to the reel reader issue.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #47 on:** August 19, 2018, 05:52:46 PM »

Got all of that! Thanks Alan and Gary.

I will start with my cable repair to make 100% sure I'm not getting any shorts.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #48 on:** August 22, 2018, 09:06:08 AM »

Just to update:
While waiting for the connector and parts from Alan at K-LAR, I went back in, removed the transformer and all the parts to access the wiring bundle at the back/bottom of the machine. I just wanted to 100 percent sure my patch job was decent. I just cut off the crimps I used on the one wire, spliced and soldered in another wire.
(Click on the first picture and see the coolest cheap tool I've ever bought)
I unwrapped the electrical tape off the other wires and double checked that it was just insulation that got eaten and that the wire was strong. I re-wrapped the bundle and zip tied it.
STILL I have the two unknown wires - see last picture. There's nothing for them to go to so I do think they just terminated there, I hope.

Amechanic · « **Reply #49 on:** August 22, 2018, 09:43:25 AM »

Mark. Iâ€™m 99% sure those two wires were part of a 2 pin molex plug that just sat there in the back of the machine.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #50 on:** September 04, 2018, 08:18:19 AM »

UPDATE, finally...
I wired in the new connector... no change. Then I put in the new ribbon cable - nothing. Changed out the reel #2 board (the one with all lights and HOT resistor) - nothing, same: all lights and HOT resistor. Then I put in the new RAM board and still have the same results.
Alan - you asked me to check three voltage regulators. Are they on the MPU? Gary you will probably know this too...
I will check the P/S output voltages again when I get home later today. Dealing with some medical issues, again! (Had to go to ER the other night for an fucking infected molar - crown fell out and it was unbearably painful. I'm really not a pansy!)

Amechanic · « **Reply #51 on:** September 04, 2018, 08:31:32 AM »

Ok.. Now this bastard machine has my attention. Give us the 3 voltages off your power supplyâ€™s test loops. Are you still showing a 6 in the win meter? And can you access other tests with the hopper boards test button, tests 2-8?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #52 on:** September 04, 2018, 08:37:13 AM »

Can't access any tests from hopper buttons. Soon as I'm home, I'll check the voltages. And I actually didn't look at the display because that resistor was starting to cook again.

Amechanic · « **Reply #53 on:** September 04, 2018, 09:54:35 AM »

You either have a problem with the MPU or the hopper board since you canâ€™t access a menu. Letâ€™s start with PS voltages and go from there. I had one in here a year or so back that they over fuse the hopper, and in the mean time it too out the IO, hopper board, and reel reader control board. Hopefully your mouse or rat friend, didnâ€™t cause the same problem.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #54 on:** September 05, 2018, 02:58:43 PM »

Ok the voltages are about the same as last time:
5v 6.9v G 9.7v
Alan told me to check all the voltage regulators. I haven't yet with my meter but the top one on the MPU is the "normal" hot, while the lower one is barely warm.
I still have the 6 code and the hopper buttons do nothing.
I'll check the voltage regulators next...

Badbaud · « **Reply #55 on:** September 05, 2018, 03:24:10 PM »

The long white power plugs (red if IDC) could have a bad pin that provides the power supply voltage to the regulators, did you check the input of the regulator for 7-9VDC?

shortrackskater · « **Reply #56 on:** September 05, 2018, 06:43:13 PM »

On the MPU board, both regulators have about 10vdc in and 5vdc out. On the I/O board, I have 10vdc in and 4.75 vdc or so out for both. And stil, on the MPU boards lower regulator, the heat sink is cool.

I think I will remove the MPU board and check the connections to that regulator see if there is a cold solder joint.

Amechanic · « **Reply #57 on:** September 05, 2018, 07:42:28 PM »

You might want to reflow the ram boards header pins. Also look close at any socketed chips around the ram board for green connections inside those sockets. I canâ€™t tell you how many bad cheap ass Bally sockets Iâ€™ve replaced.

Badbaud · « **Reply #58 on:** September 05, 2018, 08:20:26 PM »

I agree, the first thing I do is replace those two sockets.
I have trouble shot boards where the fault pointed to the RAM but the socket looked good.
You can use a flat screwdriver to pry the plastic off of the pins, in many cases I have found pins in two pieces hidden inside the plastic.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #59 on:** September 05, 2018, 08:46:02 PM »

Iâ€™m confused â€“ Alan you sent me a tested RAM board ...
which sockets? The ones in the RAM that connect to the MPU or the sockets on the RAM?

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Author Topic: HERE it is!! My Bally JACKPOT ONLY machine. (Read 9914 times)