Bally 809-ZZN Full Restoration.

[David Walz]

Reel alignment. Me thinks it's not correct. The old photo of the reel doesn't match up. More investigation is required here, the problems need to be corrected

[David Walz]

you paid attention to the orientation of the slotted metal index disks, right?

the slots have to match the symbols on the reel tapes.

if ya weren't paying attention, there is a reference hole drilled in the disk.  The three pics below should explain how the reference hole corresponds to the top of a reel tape.

slot 1 is above the mounting screw that is clockwise from the reference hole.

Just pulled them down to examine them. This is exactly what they were when I pulled them.

[wolftalk]

I was working on the carriage and wiper assembly.
The other one was difficult to work with, the switch, stop, were not aligning up, and since I have three of these parts, I put this assembly on, and the problems are resolved.I believe it is adjusted behind the 3 on the contact plate, as well as the other two sets of contacts on the carriage.

at payout counter reset, the wiper contacts need to be sitting on the left end of the traces.  Payout ends when the wipers step off the right end of the active payout trace, so if the wipers aren't on the trace to begin with, you won't get any payout.

the wipers should step off the end of the trace at the step indicated by the number on the trace.  e.g. for the 10 trace, the wipers are on the right end of the trace after 9 steps, and off the end of the trace on the 10th step. 

[wolftalk]

Reel alignment. Me thinks it's not correct. The old photo of the reel doesn't match up. More investigation is required here, the problems need to be corrected

hard to say from the pics ... ya have to count symbols from the index slot 1 position.  Note the 929 index disc and reel pictures I posted won't match your game wrt the slot depths. 

in other words, when the reel is indexed in slot 1, the symbol on the payline is nearly on the opposite side of the reel.  When reel 1 is indexed in slot 1,  an OR should be on the payline .. next symbols going down are PL, CH, BA ...

It looks like you have some tape modifications, so the easiest thing is put the index arm into slot 1 on each reel then see what symbol is on the center payline ... it should be the symbol on the top of the tape, but maybe not if someone swapped tapes.   Do all three reels and take a picture with the door open and closed and we can compare to documentation.

the three index discs should be MT-3-S-ANY-[1,2,3] for the 809-ZN.  The reel tapes are M-220-[1362, 1363, 1364] ... but those numbers are printed on the underlapped part of the tape where you can't see without removing the top of the tape.  I wouldn't do that ... easier to write down the 20 symbols in order from the top of the tape going around or just take a video when spinning the reels slowly.

[David Walz]

Reel alignment. Me thinks it's not correct. The old photo of the reel doesn't match up. More investigation is required here, the problems need to be corrected

hard to say from the pics ... ya have to count symbols from the index slot 1 position.  Note the 929 index disc and reel pictures I posted won't match your game wrt the slot depths. 

in other words, when the reel is indexed in slot 1, the symbol on the payline is nearly on the opposite side of the reel.  When reel 1 is indexed in slot 1,  an OR should be on the payline .. next symbols going down are PL, CH, BA ...

It looks like you have some tape modifications, so the easiest thing is put the index arm into slot 1 on each reel then see what symbol is on the center payline ... it should be the symbol on the top of the tape, but maybe not if someone swapped tapes.   Do all three reels and take a picture with the door open and closed and we can compare to documentation.

the three index discs should be MT-3-S-ANY-[1,2,3] for the 809-ZN.  The reel tapes are M-220-[1362, 1363, 1364] ... but those numbers are printed on the underlapped part of the tape where you can't see without removing the top of the tape.  I wouldn't do that ... easier to write down the 20 symbols in order from the top of the tape going around or just take a video when spinning the reels slowly.

After you said something about the reels, a light bulb went on in my head, I forgot my 1090 was not correct with the position also, so I pulled my Bally book and had a  moment. My notes were their.
I then took it apart and all three were not correct. I located the jackpot spots, marked them, assembled them, and it's slick.

And, most importantly, don't do anything to modify the machine permanently, I was trying to figure why the pay line was off, and with Wolftalk helping me understand the reel alignment, the pay line alignment is great, just like my 1090, in my notes it has something about the reel alignment.

[David Walz]

I checked the wiper position and the contact plate, it aligns up perfectly.

[David Walz]

I was working on the carriage and wiper assembly.
The other one was difficult to work with, the switch, stop, were not aligning up, and since I have three of these parts, I put this assembly on, and the problems are resolved.I believe it is adjusted behind the 3 on the contact plate, as well as the other two sets of contacts on the carriage.

at payout counter reset, the wiper contacts need to be sitting on the left end of the traces.  Payout ends when the wipers step off the right end of the active payout trace, so if the wipers aren't on the trace to begin with, you won't get any payout.

the wipers should step off the end of the trace at the step indicated by the number on the trace.  e.g. for the 10 trace, the wipers are on the right end of the trace after 9 steps, and off the end of the trace on the 10th step.

So I need to move it to the right a bit onto the trace.   

[wolftalk]

assuming ya didn't do anything on the ratchet side to affect where the wipers are, two things control the wiper location at reset:

1] the zero stop bumper

this is the usual one.  If it's the old style eccentric disc, you loosen and spin it.  The newer style is a rubber "eraser tip" that you screw up/down.  If the eraser tip part is damaged, you can literally glue in a pencil eraser.

adjusting the zero stop bumper also affects where the ratchet teeth are at reset, so you need to make sure the first step of the unit where the ratchets are falling down on the teeth only grabs one tooth.  If you payout is short by 1, then the first step grabbing two teeth could be the problem.  Also note the coil will yank in the plunger a lot harder than you do pushing i manually, so it's possible for the unit to step ok when using your finger, but it grabs two teeth when the coil does it.

if you wind up grabbing two teeth, you have to adjust the zero stop bumper is that doesn't happen.  Then ....

2] loosen the contact plate and twist it.

there's enough slop in the mounting screw holes to allow the plate the be cocked.  It's normal for step unit contact plates to not be perfectly aligned squarely with the unit frame.

[David Walz]

assuming ya didn't do anything on the ratchet side to affect where the wipers are, two things control the wiper location at reset:

1] the zero stop bumper

this is the usual one.  If it's the old style eccentric disc, you loosen and spin it.  The newer style is a rubber "eraser tip" that you screw up/down.  If the eraser tip part is damaged, you can literally glue in a pencil eraser.

adjusting the zero stop bumper also affects where the ratchet teeth are at reset, so you need to make sure the first step of the unit where the ratchets are falling down on the teeth only grabs one tooth.  If you payout is short by 1, then the first step grabbing two teeth could be the problem.  Also note the coil will yank in the plunger a lot harder than you do pushing i manually, so it's possible for the unit to step ok when using your finger, but it grabs two teeth when the coil does it.

if you wind up grabbing two teeth, you have to adjust the zero stop bumper is that doesn't happen.  Then ....

2] loosen the contact plate and twist it.

there's enough slop in the mounting screw holes to allow the plate the be cocked.  It's normal for step unit contact plates to not be perfectly aligned squarely with the unit frame.

I will adjust it with the zero stop bumper, thanks, were coming along.

[David Walz]

Well, more parts arrived!
The 5¢ disc assembly came in. What a nice piece of work. I checked out the hopper by hand and it is really smooth.

[David Walz]

The disc assembly and the 5¢ knife is awesome.

[David Walz]

Moving along.
The hopper SWS

OK I KNOW I MADE A MISTAKE, I'LL LOOK AND SEE WHAT HAPPENED! 
I have the drawing attached of what it should be wired.

[David Walz]

Still working on the delay relay assembly. The wires are run, now I need the capacitor, and something else.

[David Walz]

I received the rocker arm switch cover.

[David Walz]

This cover was part of the hopper, however I know what to do with it. 

[David Walz]

I would think with all of the fuses my father in law had, I'd come up with extra fuses, nope, none, had to order them just like my 1090 slot machine.

[David Walz]

I'm still trying to source a part, and I may have to fabricate it.

Found it!

[David Walz]

I resolved the issue with the hopper SWS switch. The smaller cover is working fine, the larger cover is not going to work. Still I am just pleased as snot to have help building the hopper. The hopper SWS switch was complete when I received it, I was concerned about the stop bracket, however it was fine.

Since I am basically building this hopper things happen with parts, and you resolve the problems one at a time..

[David Walz]

I still have some parts needed.

Motor gear.
Delay relay circuit switch assembly.
Relay assembly parts.
Scoop cover.

Then the really hard part, function testing. I have to pull out my beuplug extension cord to run the hopper.

[wolftalk]

if you have - or make - extension cables for the plugs, that makes life easier.   However, there's not a lot on the hopper, so it's not really necessary. 

if you blow a fuse tho, the most useful thing is a small circuit breaker so you don't go broke buying fuses until you find the issue.

suggest you tape up or shrink tube  the join (red arrow).  I don't think it can touch anything, but you don't want it to.

the switch gap (yellow arrow) looks large.  When testing switch operation, push down the armature plate (green arrow), not the brown switch lifter.  Switch travel is higher than normal if you push on the lifter.   You're familiar with switch adjust and overtravel, right?

I don't recall seeing the cover over the hopper switches before.  I'd leave it off ... at least until you make sure everything is working.