Bally 809-ZZN Full Restoration.

[David Walz]

You would think that I could rebuild a few slot machines, let alone build a hopper, with the parts that I have in my shop. This is just a handful of parts. 
I can't imagine why anyone would destroy a disc assembly by changing the coin on it, there are other dis assembly that haven't been cut up. This is my second one I have had, and I just pitch them in the trash since we don't have a clue about how accurate it is.

[David Walz]

For some people who know what this tag above information plate is, please let me know. Thanks.

[wolftalk]

I can't imagine why anyone would destroy a disc assembly by changing the coin on it, there are other dis assembly that haven't been cut up.

if you have a lathe, cutting a disc for a larger diameter coin is cheaper than sourcing the correct disc ... if it's even possible to find one. 

the diameter doesn't have to be precise ... the coin just needs to stick up above the rim enough for the coin out roller to travel enough to operate the switches or step-up mechanism, and the roller height is adjustable.

the tag above the serial/model number plate is a union label.

[David Walz]

I can't imagine why anyone would destroy a disc assembly by changing the coin on it, there are other dis assembly that haven't been cut up.

if you have a lathe, cutting a disc for a larger diameter coin is cheaper than sourcing the correct disc ... if it's even possible to find one. 

the diameter doesn't have to be precise ... the coin just needs to stick up above the rim enough for the coin out roller to travel enough to operate the switches or step-up mechanism, and the roller height is adjustable.

the tag above the serial/model number plate is a union label.

Well, anyone want a 50¢ disk 

[David Walz]

Today we're checking out coils, replacing a couple of toasted coils, the ohm meter picked up zero. Then I was checking out for broken wires, its a whole lot of work. I still have a lot of work to do, but another day is coming.

[David Walz]

Top unit is dead. I figured out that the plug was not making contact when plugged in, first is cleaning the plug, second will be replacing it, worst case scenario.
One coil is weak I have a Bally original coil., the light sockets need cleaning, they are funky ones. I already have serviced this, obviously not as good as I should have.

The rest of the coils are working, with a very strong reaction.

[David Walz]

I've been reading about the #55 bulbs in the upper unit. The issue is that they a are loosely goosey after I replaced them. I really don't know how to proceed, I've read the barb needs to be tapped lightly in the light socket with a wood dowel, and that sounds barbaric. Do they need more cleaning, it's A unusual setup.

I swiped a photo on the internet of a close-up.

[David Walz]

I found replacement sockets, will make it easier to keep the bulbs tight, in place. 

[DavidLee]

Think the original sockets were convenient for installing in a limited space.
Getting the center barb in the right position is a big factor.

Regarding the actual attachment barb.

Inserting a tooth pick with glue on the end will take up space in oversized holes.
Or slightly bending the barb to penetrate the wood at a different angle sometimes helps.
Also seen small U nails / staples holding sockets in place.

Possibly add a couple of drops of crazy glue during and after reinstalling the socket.

[David Walz]

New sockets are on order, I am keeping the wiring setup exactly, using the old wires, everything. Those were worn out, A lot of slop inside the socket, the barb was missing, so it was not going to get any more life, it did its job.

[wolftalk]

david already covered the mounting issues ... and yeah, whacking the sockets in with a punch or similar is how it was done.

the usual problem with the flat sockets is the center barb has bent back some and the lamp is a little loose in the socket.

the solution - with power to the socket off - is insert a small screwdriver from the front and lever the tab up until the tip pretty much touches the barrel/wall.  When you remove the screwdriver, the barb will spring back a lot but will still be bent more forward than it was.  Should be good for a lot more years.  If the barb snaps off, it was no good anyway.

a different solution from the pinball world is these:

   https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-bally-stern-insert-led-pcb.html

however, they are made to illuminate playfield inserts.  On those, the distance from the led to the insert is about the same as the lamp-to-insert distance.  If you use one of the boards for a lamp that poked thru a hole in wood, the led may be too far away from the glass to light it well.

I think the pacific pinball museum just ordered a batch of the boards, so I'll give it a try and see.

'course, these days a lot of people toss the #55/44/47 lamps and replace them with leds.  A lot cooler and less power, so the glass ink is happy.   You still have to deal with socket issues tho.
 

[David Walz]

Working on the switches, they are doing awesome, checking out the wiring, looking for problem wires. After replacing the one coils/solenoid, every coils/solenoid is working strong 100% in the upper unit.

[David Walz]

david already covered the mounting issues ... and yeah, whacking the sockets in with a punch or similar is how it was done.

the usual problem with the flat sockets is the center barb has bent back some and the lamp is a little loose in the socket.

the solution - with power to the socket off - is insert a small screwdriver from the front and lever the tab up until the tip pretty much touches the barrel/wall.  When you remove the screwdriver, the barb will spring back a lot but will still be bent more forward than it was.  Should be good for a lot more years.  If the barb snaps off, it was no good anyway.

a different solution from the pinball world is these:

   https://www.pinballlife.com/classic-bally-stern-insert-led-pcb.html

however, they are made to illuminate playfield inserts.  On those, the distance from the led to the insert is about the same as the lamp-to-insert distance.  If you use one of the boards for a lamp that poked thru a hole in wood, the led may be too far away from the glass to light it well.

I think the pacific pinball museum just ordered a batch of the boards, so I'll give it a try and see.

'course, these days a lot of people toss the #55/44/47 lamps and replace them with leds.  A lot cooler and less power, so the glass ink is happy.   You still have to deal with socket issues tho.

Tits, barbs were mostly toast. This machine has a lot of wear and tear, a example is the pull assembly, has some heavy wear on the parts.. But I am pressing onward and upward.

[David Walz]

Testing the coils/solenoid on the hopper, they are in good shape, firing, motor, etc.
I had a loose wire inside the slot machine, and a crossed wire, talk about a crazy hopper, everything is good.

[David Walz]

This sucks a nickel shortage. 

[rdaniel]

Ask your local bank if they can assist with the nickel issues.

[David Walz]

Ask your local bank if they can assist with the nickel issues.

That's where I went!
Looking on eBay, I found some rolled nickel and purchased them. They were the only real choice right now, since I live in the woods of Alaska, where sources are limited, I am still not discouraged by these speed bumps in life! 

[David Walz]

I had a package today, some more parts. The cover for the hopper is awesome.

[David Walz]

More parts, the meter and bracket came in. The meter coil was fried, so I grabbed a square head meter from my parts box, and it is awesome. The bracket was the most important part, that I needed. 

[David Walz]

  More parts that arrived. The Bally belly glass was flaking, so I bought another one. It's awesome also, perfect glass, perfect Bally paint job. 

Member Name: RB sold me this glass, awesome packaging, and everything is great, it's perfect.