The V2 has the controller on the pull out tray, there's an opening on the plastic face of the v2 pull out tray for the blackfin eeprom that has the firmware on it. Have a look at your pull out tray to see if there's an chip in the socket there. If not, you can just move the one from the v1's blackfin controller, then the OLEDs can be moved over to it. The HDMI plug from the button deck connects to the backplane just above where the power supply plugs are located. I believe the eeproms are SMD's on the G1's, I don't know where they are, but they would have to be there, so it is not practical to remove/install eeproms unless you install zif sockets where the eeproms are. I have found that if you just wipe cabinet memory and then replace mpu's, you will get a green screen (or was it red) after booting telling you about the mismatch, but a turn of the reset key and the eeproms will be written with the info from the currently installed mpu and all your games and settings should be intact. You could experiment just to be sure, but I've been able to do that for a friend who for some reason got his cabinet eeproms corrupted after a power failure. We did a clear of the cabinet memory and the game booted into the screens where you twist the reset key and the game was up and running with his previous known configuration. I prefer V1 hardware vs V2, because if your blackfin goes, it is easier to find and replace the blackfin on the v1's since it is just a separate device and lots of them floating around. If the blackin goes on the v2, most likely you would have to find v2 cabinet controller assembly.