Detailed Restoration of a Bally 1090

[David Walz]

No that’s normal. That gear only indexes 3 clicks. It’s for your stepper

 


I just figured that out. I cleaned the whole unit thinking that it had something to do with the coin disbursement. Nope, it progresses the coin from one, two, three. Yes it really needed cleaning, the unit would not rotate correctly, from gunk inside the mechanism, but I still have a extra coin drop.


 

[David Walz]

This is one hell of an education, "slot machine repairing". It's so easy a caveman can do it. 


   I have to admit I'm getting an education, I'm not screwing up anything, just cleaning, servicing, repairing, and the slot machine works excellent, functions excellent, except for one coin extra on the payout.   

I take a lot of photos of the the mechanism I'm working on, just to make sure everything goes back together correctly, this way it's done right the first time.

[Paul]

Check the hopper brake to make sure it stops the hopper.

[Amechanic]

I had one here a few month back that would over pay. It turned out to be that the nylon stop on the motor  armature was worn so bad that it would not stop. It would skip allowing extra coins to be paid. The other nylon brake part was also worn. Ended up gutting a spare hopper for parts. This is where a set of extension cables come in handy.

[David Walz]

I had one here a few month back that would over pay. It turned out to be that the nylon stop on the motor  armature was worn so bad that it would not stop. It would skip allowing extra coins to be paid. The other nylon brake part was also worn. Ended up gutting a spare hopper for parts. This is where a set of extension cables come in handy.

Excellent, these forum members are great helping me revive my dead slot machine, rebuilding it from the ashes sort of speak. I've got a lead on buying some extension cables so I can see what is going on with the hopper outside the slot machine.


  

[David Walz]

  Just purchased a set of test cables for the hopper via mail, Now were getting ready for some diagnostic work on this bad boy.

[David Walz]

I'm working on the coin acceptor, coin lockout coil, and the coin diverter.


  I found out the coin lockout coil was gutted out, so after foraging around I found the parts. After I assembled the coin lockout I noticed it would jamb coins, and after scratching my head I noticed a bend in one of the metal parts. This bend was creating a jamb, after I straightened it out everything worked great.


You know that these coin assembly have bends throughout the mechanism so finding out what is the problem takes hours of careful research, and the last thing I want to do is create more problems by screwing up the coin assembly. 


I've got the coin lockout assembly working flawlessly, now the coin diverter is next, I ordered a new coil for a replacement, this one is not functioning.


The coin acceptor is worn, I have done some cleaning and removing some rust. Seems that its working better since I've cleaned it up and adjusted things.


I don't understand why people cut wires, bend parts, tweak switches, install things upside down, I'm getting the problems removed, it just is taking time to make sure I don't create new problems. 

[David Walz]

Resistor


I'm looking for a replacement resistor and I'm resistor illiterate. Could someone point me in the right direction on what I need to look for???

[rokgpsman]

One end of the resistor has a color band closest to the end, that's the end you start counting with. For the first two bands you write down their number, then the third band is the multiplier band. The physical size of the resistor is also important, it tells you the wattage (how much heat it can take).

Your resistor in the photo looks ok, what's wrong with it? Looks like maybe the colored bands are gray-red-red, which translates to 8 (gray)  2 (red)  x 100 (red),  8200 ohms (same as 8.2k ohms). But hard to tell colors on my monitor. As for the wattage it looks like a 1 or 2 watt resistor, measure the length and check the chart below.

[David Walz]

One end of the resistor has a color band closest to the end, that's the end you start counting with. For the first two bands you write down their number, then the third band is the multiplier band. The physical size of the resistor is also important, it tells you the wattage (how much heat it can take).

Your resistor in the photo looks ok, what's wrong with it? Looks like maybe the colored bands are gray-red-red, which translates to 8 (gray)  2 (red)  x 100 (red),  8200 ohms (same as 8.2k ohms). But hard to tell colors on my monitor. As for the wattage it looks like maybe a 2 watt resistor but measure the length and check the chart below.

   It's gray red red gray, I tried to figure out the code but the numbers got confusing. I'm also unable to find one with the same colors for sale.

[rokgpsman]

It's gray red red gray, I tried to figure out the code but the numbers got confusing. I'm also unable to find one with the same colors for sale.

The 4th band is just the tolerance band. You can think of it as the precision band, how close the resistor will actually be to what the color code says it should be. Instead of gray I think that 4th band is silver, it will be either silver or gold or blank for the 4th band on a carbon resistor like this. For this purpose you can use either a gold or silver tolerance resistor. Gold is 5% exactness, silver is 10% exactness (tolerance/precision).

Carbon resistors can change values as they get older, typically they increase value because of moisture absorption. You can still find carbon resistors but nowadays resistors are mostly made of "metal film" type. They hold their value much better than carbon style ones. You can use a metal film resistor, just as long as it is the same 8200 ohms size and the same wattage.

Here's one for sale, but you might find a better deal elsewhere. Select "8200 ohms" in the pulldown menu.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-NOS-A-B-Allen-Bradley-Fixed-Composition-2-Watt-Resistor/263597342340?hash=item3d5fa03e84:m:mP80EMV65G9K5zMRfOIcDDg


Here's a couple more:

https://www.rfparts.com/resistors/resistors-metaloxide/resistor-2watt/r2-8200.html

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/SPR2CT521R822J?qs=wrHFVm9tPrA5b8bHmqB%2fBw%3d%3d


If you don't mind waiting 6-8 weeks you can get one for $2.50, free shipping, and you will have 49 extras to give to your friends.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50PCS-8-2K-ohm-8200R-2Watt-Metal-Film-Resistors-2W-Resistor-1-High-Quality-0444/292503969125?hash=item441a985d65:g:U1sAAMXQdGJR39vY

[David Walz]

It's gray red red gray, I tried to figure out the code but the numbers got confusing. I'm also unable to find one with the same colors for sale.

The 4th band is just the tolerance band. You can think of it as the precision band, how close the resistor will actually be to what the color code says it should be. Instead of gray I think that 4th band is silver, it will be either silver or gold or blank for the 4th band on a carbon resistor like this. For this purpose you can use either a gold or silver tolerance resistor. Gold is 5% exactness, silver is 10% exactness (tolerance/precision).

Carbon resistors can change values as they get older, typically they increase value because of moisture absorption. You can still find carbon resistors but nowadays resistors are mostly made of "metal film" type. They hold their value much better than carbon style ones. You can use a metal film resistor, just as long as it is the same 8200 ohms size and the same wattage.

Here's one for sale, but you might find a better deal elsewhere. Select "8200 ohms" in the pulldown menu.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-NOS-A-B-Allen-Bradley-Fixed-Composition-2-Watt-Resistor/263597342340?hash=item3d5fa03e84:m:mP80EMV65G9K5zMRfOIcDDg


Here's a couple more:

https://www.rfparts.com/resistors/resistors-metaloxide/resistor-2watt/r2-8200.html

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/SPR2CT521R822J?qs=wrHFVm9tPrA5b8bHmqB%2fBw%3d%3d


If you don't mind waiting 6-8 weeks you can get one for $2.50, free shipping, and you will have 49 extras to give to your friends.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50PCS-8-2K-ohm-8200R-2Watt-Metal-Film-Resistors-2W-Resistor-1-High-Quality-0444/292503969125?hash=item441a985d65:g:U1sAAMXQdGJR39vY

Thank you for your help. I can do most work by myself, I have a lot of electronic stuff, however when it comes to this I am ignorant. I just purchased one. This is great, getting new resistor will  help.

[rokgpsman]

What's wrong with the old resistor?   

[Amechanic]

Don’t get me wrong with what I’m typing, but you want the machine original... The new resistor will not look like that one. They are a lot smaller and may be a different color with the exception for the markings. Why Change it if it’s not broken??

[David Walz]

I dont think this working. 

[David Walz]

Don’t get me wrong with what I’m typing, but you want the machine original... The new resistor will not look like that one. They are a lot smaller and may be a different color with the exception for the markings. Why Change it if it’s not broken??

Thanks, I' m thinking it doesn't function.


BTW 



Also, trying to restore this is as original as I can is proving to be difficult, I have one slot machine parts place that I've been calling for more than a month and he keeps putting me off, its nuts begging for parts.

[Amechanic]

Did you check it with a multi meter? They don’t just stop working, when the die they usually go up in smoke.

[David Walz]

Did you check it with a multi meter? They don’t just stop working, when the die they usually go up in smoke.

Me thinks my old broken down multi meter must be DOA because it was not registering. I have to get my backup meter.


So a good one looks normal, a bad one looks like burnt toast. Thanks for the information. 


On to checking out the coil with my backup meter since the resistor doesn't look like burnt toast. 
The electronics like this resistor is confusing to me, otherwise I've got things under control.


I've got several bugs removed, I just take time and I will figure it out. This problem with the coin assembly was that some parts were missing, bent parts, wrong parts etc. Looking at the drawings, photos, I can determine what is right and what is FUBAR. Right now its working pretty good, however I suspect the coin diverter is not working.


Thats how I figured out the switch on the reels was tweaked and not working, by looking at photos from other reels I was able to straighten out the switch where it was operating correctly between the reel assembly and the pay out assembly. Before I had no line of communication between the two.




THANKS FOR PUTTING UP WITH ME.

[63mini]

 Do you have the part and spring shown below? It's missing in your photo on post 106. That part keeps extra coins from going into the game. It could have been removed because some people do not like the buzzing noise they can make.

[David Walz]

Do you have the part and spring shown below? It's missing in your photo on post 106. That part keeps extra coins from going into the game. It could have been removed because some people do not like the buzzing noise they can make.

I just found the coin lockout armature, spring from a pinball machine and installed it. 
I'm using several original Bally books to figure out what is missing, bent, FUBAR etc.