Do I really need ANOTHER slot machine? And, it's a Aristocrat!

[shortrackskater]

Why don't you change the ballast to 110 volt ones?

The problem is the location and wiring accessibility. One is squeezed into the top box with little room. The other is sandwiched in an even smaller area just above the reel assembly, behind a curved plate.
With this new step-up transformer being "slim" (so they say) it should fit neatly on the inside. I'll route an AC cord in for that and then plug the machine to the new 110vac source.

[Paul]

With the new electronic ballasts
they are smaller and more efficient.

[shortrackskater]

With the new electronic ballasts
they are smaller and more efficient.

I wish I was more efficient!
Yes that's a good point. I'm just out of energy, so to speak, to do this right now so I'm hoping this new device will work. Otherwise yes I probably would consider that. I'm still exactly clear as to why the thing lights up with only one starter on the door (for the two door bulbs).
Plus I realize I'd just have to wire in the ballasts and can use all the rest of the original wiring to the stater sockets/lamp fixtures.

[shortrackskater]

The device I'm getting...

[shortrackskater]

The device is here! It definitely is slim and fit in the machine although I'm concerned with heat. I don't know how warm the thing will get powering three florescent lights, two at 6 watts and one at 8 I believe.
The other thing is the 220 input plug on the back is grounded and the 110 to 220 converter is not.

[rokgpsman]

That's not a lot of power coming from it to operate those 3 fluorescent lights so it probably will only get warm to the touch, not hot. A lot of devices now that are totally enclosed in plastic housing just have the 2 prong plugs, no 3rd prong for the safety ground. I guess the reasoning is that since the device is totally enclosed in plastic you can't get shocked from touching it. But that doesn't make your metal slot machine chassis grounded for safety.

The machine was made for the 3rd prong safety ground wire because the machine is made of metal and if a short were to happen inside it you could get shocked. The only way to fix that if you want to is to somehow run a wire (green is the usual color) from the machine metal chassis over to your electric wall outlet. You could get a power cable, like a short 16 or 18 gauge extension power cable that has 3 wires (black, white and green), cut off the female end and breakout the 3 wires. Connect the black & white wires (the power wires) to the power converter's power input, then connect the green wire from the extension cable to the machine chassis, like with a lug screwed into the metal. This is what they do on a clothes dryer power cable, and other appliances as well. There may already be some green wires connected to chassis ground inside the machine near where the power cable originally came into the machine, you could wirenut/splice the new green wire to one of those existing green chassis ground wires. 

How are the fluorescent lights doing, any flicker or noise from them or their ballasts? Are the ballasts not getting overly warm?

[shortrackskater]

Everytime I say "tomorrow" or "tonight" ends up being days later as I still haven't got to it yet! What's odd is the converter has a standard two prong output and not the usual 220VAC style.  I'm thinking I could actually cut the converters input power cord, and just splice in (solder in) a three wire cord and then just run the ground wire to the ground inside the machine. There's no polarity on the output plug either.