Author Topic: Help with a Bally 5-reel E-2000 slot (Read 25047 times)

dhellis · « **Reply #60 on:** January 16, 2015, 04:43:55 PM »

I find it easier to replace all 3 and there is an error, one device should be [blink]74145[/blink], not 146

sorry about that.

Amechanic · « **Reply #61 on:** January 17, 2015, 10:53:07 AM »

Quote from: fixinstuff on January 16, 2015, 03:21:12 PM

I have all the ribbon cables fixed and correct. (I still find it hard to believe that my first connectors were configured wrong!)
Quote

Where did you find the correct ribbon cable ends? I bought some but the pins are shorter then the original ones..

fixinstuff · « **Reply #62 on:** January 17, 2015, 04:18:21 PM »

amechanic, actually, the new pins I used are a little shorter too. But the pin configuration is correct. I got them from www.jameco.com in Belmont, CA. I think the exact size etc can be ordered from Digikey or Mouser. I checked the continuity after I plugged the ribbons in and they did make contact OK. dhellis, I didn't find the CD40106 IC locally so I have to order...it'll be a few days...I'll be back.

Amechanic · « **Reply #63 on:** January 17, 2015, 04:50:13 PM »

I also bought mine through Jameco, dhellis helped me find those. I was a little disappointed to find the pin were shorter. I never measured the old ones against the replacement. I just assumed it was a standard length..live and learn, because you know what they say when you assume something!!

I'll have to go search Mouser to see what they have.

Gary

ramegoom · « **Reply #64 on:** January 17, 2015, 05:11:34 PM »

It might be easier to just replace the 16 pin DIP socket with a standard IC socket. Then, any jumper will work.

They probably used popular components back in the 80's when the boards were made, but a lot of that stuff has gone away. Hard to find thru-hole parts any more.

GOS · « **Reply #65 on:** January 17, 2015, 05:27:32 PM »

i have the original augut thru hole on ebay item
151529858747

fixinstuff · « **Reply #66 on:** January 17, 2015, 06:36:30 PM »

ramegroom, that's a great. I'll do that if the new ones fail to keep contact. I'm sure that should be checked after moving the slot. I'm actually putting IC sockets on the reel control board when replacing the 3 ICs. Probably sockets are not used on the reel control board because of the reel basket gets quite a bit of vibration and shakeing, but I think the ICs will be tight enough in sockets to hold.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #67 on:** January 19, 2015, 02:54:24 PM »

Well, OK...I'm about to give up now and send in the boards to dhellis. But first, I guess one last question. I've tried to read the schematics , but it makes no sense...to me. I repaired the reel control board (replaced the 3 ICs), but no improvement. WITHOUT the reel board, NONE of the reel reader's LEDs light up. WITH the board installed #1 light's up good, the others don't. If I remove all readers and try each one in position #1, each one will light up. With all the readers installed and the board installed, there is 5.88 vdc to each reader and gnd is continuous all the way back to the I/O board. (I would say they are "daisy chained"?) According to the schem...the way I understand it...the circuit for the LEDs actually by-passes the control board so all the LEDs on each board should light up with or without the board...but they don't. (without the board even #1 doesn't light up). So why is the board required to light up the LEDs and why is only #1 lighting (with the board)? This beats me. What am I missing? John

dhellis · « **Reply #68 on:** January 19, 2015, 05:21:31 PM »

This may be a bit difficult to explain but here goes anyway.

The reel readers require the decoder board because though the voltage is on each pin, they are actuated
by pulling pin 11 of each card low. This is the reason my repair instructions state to tie a 3K resistor to ground.
When pin 11 of the card is pulled low (Logic low) it enables the small transistor turning it on and supplying
voltage to the other emitters.

To get a better understanding, download the PDF file for the 74145 IC, you will see that the inputs are tied to
reel control 0,1 & 2 on J4 coming from the IO board. The 74145 is a BCD to decimal conveter and reading the truth
table will show when each line would be at a logic 0 level.

I know that when I built my reader card tester, I made an assumption that the 5 volt cards worked the same as the
50 volt cards and then we all know what happens when we assume. It took me a bit of digging into the schematics
and reading the truth tables to realize that I needed to have a bias on that transistor before the card would turn on.
Without the bias, only the first emitter would ever turn on.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #69 on:** January 20, 2015, 02:43:18 PM »

dhellis. Yep, I assumed too. Thanks for the explanation. So I'm sort of back to square 1. With the slot locked up, it accepts coins, displays "coin accepted", lights up correct pay-lines, reels spin, reels still won't index. Door open buzzer is still on with door closed. Test #5 is still all zeros. Other tests seem to be OK. It actually accepts more than 3 coins and the credit display stays at zero (but I think that's a problem to address later). Test #8 accepts coins and reels will spin ( after pulling handle, it locks and you have to insert another coin in order to pull handle again (normal I think)). Sounds like bad connections somewhere OR bad logic somewhere! I'll try replacing U8 on the I/O board, to see if that makes any difference.
I've:
1. replaced the 3 ICs on the reel control board...didn't make any difference
2. dis-connected the door open buzzer...made no difference
3. cleaned all connections...made no difference
4. removed and reset all game chips...made no difference
5. tested all reel readers...all are good...made no difference
6. tested and repaired ribbon cables...made no difference (actually did help because there were no displays before)
7. replaced R8 and Q1 on MPU...they run hot so changed to be sure...made no difference

PS: I didn't use IC sockets on the reel control board since it is 2-sided. (a little harder to insure good solder joints)
I'll be back....

dhellis · « **Reply #70 on:** January 20, 2015, 03:13:15 PM »

Q1 is a darlington transistor so hope you ordered the D40K3 or found a substitute.

U8 on the IO board uses an 8T98 and you can use a 74368 (74LS368) as a replacement.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #71 on:** January 20, 2015, 06:44:40 PM »

Right. I used a NTE268 and will use SN74368AN for the 8T98.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #72 on:** January 21, 2015, 01:26:14 AM »

Well, that didn't fix it either...so time to PM dhellis about checking the boards....be back soon....stand by...I'll post when it is working...promise

jpduffy · « **Reply #73 on:** January 21, 2015, 09:35:56 PM »

FIXINSTUFF,

Just got your PM and though I would answer my issue in the public section so others could benefit.

So my sad story was I bounced a coin into the payout control board and burned up some stuff,

I sent my board to Dan H and he found a couple of bad IC's but the mistake I made was not sending him my ribbon cables. So when I got the boards back I broke a pin on the MPU to IO board. So I found a guy online that was selling cables and purchased two from him just incase. Wouldn't you know that the first one I pulled out of the box and put it in my system the pin's on it were about 1 mm shorter than the original cable (I did not notice for several days) It was a late night when I got the idea to swap it out to the 2nd cable, then TA-DAAA the thing started working.

So the issues I saw with the disconnected (or improperly connected MPU to IO) was erratic IO operations for all devices. When the sequence test (#2) would lockup on the first or second operation, also the sound board would not correctly work.

You may want to give Test #2 a run and watch the machine as it will give you a hint based on the output sequence.

Dan H did save me a bunch of time by testing but be sure to send your MPU to IO cable with your boards.

- Joe[size=78%] [/size]

fixinstuff · « **Reply #74 on:** January 21, 2015, 10:22:45 PM »

Jpduffy, Thanks for reply on this board for all to see. I'll be sending my boards and ribbons to Dellis also, but first I want to fix some bad connections that I found...including some ribbon connections that have short pins. Thanks for your info.

Dhellis, Well, I guess I'm not giving up yet. I replaced the female ribbon connector on the IO "slot id" board with an IC socket and got a much better contact. But then when I tried to run the tests, I got no low voltage power. Checked the PS and no output. Wiggled the PS connector and got power back and could run the tests. So I need to replace the PS connector and I think I will replace ALL the green ribbon connectors because the new ribbon connector I have all have short pins. After correcting the connectors (again), I'll see how the tests look. Then send you the boards if necessary. Thanks to all for sticking with me. Be back later.

I'm still stirring this pot...I mean slot!

fixinstuff · « **Reply #75 on:** February 04, 2015, 10:05:20 PM »

I'm back. And happy. With the help of all on here and especially RAMEGOOM we have a working slot. Well, almost. With the gracious help of RAMEGOOM and his boards, we were able to swap boards and decide that the problem with my reels not indexing is my I/O board. RIGHT ON, GOS! and DHELLIS. (and others). So now I know for sure that my I/O board needs a fix. The slot plays good, smooth, all lights work, reels symbols are correct, pays are correct, door open buzzer works correctly. So what's my problem now? Well, the credit function isn't working right. If I should, I'll start a new post. I'll wait for the moderator to tell me which way to go. Thanks again to all on this first problem of non-indexing reels. The problem is the I/O board which dhellis can fix.

ramegoom · « **Reply #76 on:** February 05, 2015, 12:47:25 PM »

Glad to hear it's up and running. I'm not sure about the credit play, but I would think it's controller is remote, rather than with the CPU. Tracing those indicator lamps to another source might be in order.

And it's good you were in close proximity to my slot stash...sure made things simpler.

John
>>

fixinstuff · « **Reply #77 on:** February 27, 2015, 05:58:22 PM »

OK. I'm going to wrap this topic up. I sent the boards to dhellis and he got the machine working.

The MPU was OK. The IO board had a bad capacitor (C4), and 2 bad ICs (U8 and U12). The machine now plays correctly, the reels index and all symbols are correct (test #5), wins are paid in credits, (winner paid amount is correct), credits can be played or cashed out OR coins can be used and winning credits will accumulate. The "winner paid" amount is correct when the credits are cashed out. So the original problem with this topic was that the reels didn't index and reel readers didn't read the reels. And that problem was the bad IO board. So, thanks to all for helping me.

I do have one problem left to fix. Now the credit display LED isn't lighting up.

Everything is working correctly, there just isn't any display to show how many credits there are. This problem is being addressed in another post of mine:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=5232.new;topicseen#new

jpduffy · « **Reply #78 on:** February 27, 2015, 08:54:24 PM »

Yea!

Working machine is much more fun to have in the house!

- Joe

fixinstuff · « **Reply #79 on:** February 27, 2015, 09:09:24 PM »

Hi Joe. I'm glad you replied. Yeah, it feels good to be getting close. If I can just get the credit thing working right, it'll be good. I've started a new post to discuss the credit display problem now. Please join me there. John

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Author Topic: Help with a Bally 5-reel E-2000 slot (Read 25047 times)