Need help identifying Double Bonus Poker Machine

[Danger86]

Hey Everyone,

Just bought a IGT Upright Double Bonus Poker Machine and I'd like to find out a few more things about it.

1. Is this a PE or PE+ Machine
2. Can I add additional games to it and how/what do I need to do this?
3. Currently it is a quarter machine. I just changed the denomination display and I plan to get a dime coin mech. Will the standard hopper work with dimes or will it only work with quarters or qst's?

Details:
Double Bonus Poker
9/1987
Model: 1070-A

[rokgpsman]

Looks like a PE to me, I think the PE+ models have an embedded (built-in) bill acceptor but I could be wrong about that. The PE models don't have a way to add a bill acceptor internally but some did have a bill acceptor mounted on the side of the machine.

The early Player's Edge machines were built to play a single game only. To change games you need to swap out the eproms on the mpu board. Some owners just get a second mpu board with other game eproms on it and then swap mpu boards when they want a game change. Later on IGT came out with what is called a superboard, it is a deluxe mpu board that allows an eprom set that has 5 games at the same time, called multipoker. You might be able to install one of these. On powerup the machine then shows a menu listing 5 popular games, like Jacks or Better, Deuces Wild, Bonus Poker, etc. You simply select the one you want to play and can go back to the menu to pick a different one at any time. These machines can also play a keno game and probably others, but the video poker games are the most common.

Clean looking machine, nice find. Is it operating ok or have problems? One of your photos shows what looks like a cracked paytable glass on the shelf, did you replace it from this machine?

Have you removed the mpu board and inspected the battery? That's always a good idea when you first get an older machine. After many years the battery can start leaking and damage the mpu board. Show us a picture of the mpu board and we can tell you more about the machine. It is mounted in a metal tray, located either just above the monitor or down by the hopper.

Personally I'd stay away from playing with dimes. They are small and harder to handle getting out of the coin tray, inserting in to the machine and for the hopper to handle. Most casinos stayed away from dimes for a reason. Nickels are a better choice if you don't want quarters. But that's just my opinion.

If you are changing to a lower denom to reduce the amount of money tied up in the machine hopper you can always switch to game tokens. They make them in quarter size and that way you don't have a bunch of real money in the machine. The tokens also don't "disappear" like real money does when your friends & family play the machine.


Almost forgot - Welcome to NLG !
Ask any questions you have, there's lots of friendly and experienced folks here.

[vegasparties]

You have a PE machine, and a very clean looking one also, it is a good find.
 You can get the multi game chip set but you will need the superboard to do so.  One other problem could be the "burn-in" on your monitor.  When you go multi game the payouts for each game are shown on the screen. This moves your cards down and depending on the burn-in can be not so pretty to look at.

The other reply was right!  Stay away from dimes.  You have a mechanical coin mec now, which will have to be changed out.  If your machine has a harness for a a coin comparator it could be replaced that way.  If not you will need to get a 10 cent mech. Mec.  You will have to change the hopper shelf wheel also, and the encoder,(aplastic guide for your optics under the coin mec.  Stay with quarters would be my recommendation.

Good luck,
vegasparties

[Danger86]

Thanks for the replies you two.

Rokgpsman: Yes it is functioning perfectly. I've been having a lot of fun playing it. When I brought it home it wasn't accepting quarters and the coin mech said QST on the sticker. I found a 130-25 coin mech to accept quarters for 7 bucks and put that in and now I have no issues. Is the QST coin mech for quarter size tokens? Good eye, yes that cracked pay table was from this machine. From what I've read it looks like this is considered a "full pay" machine with 100.17 payback with perfect play. I'd eventually like to find a new pay table glass that isn't cracked or damaged at all being the rest of the machine is in such good shape.

I like both your ideas about using tokens rather then quarters or dimes. Am I correct in assuming I would need to switch the 130-25 coin mech out for the QST coin mech or are there tokens that the 130-25 will take? If there is a preferred vendor for tokens feel free to point me in the direction of the correct ones I would need. I see a lot of different "quarter size" tokens so I'm not sure which one I would need.

Thanks again for all the replies so far!

[rokgpsman]

There are several places that sell replacement glass but depending on the specific one it can be easy or hard to find. You can ask around here for leads on that, also ebay often has Player's Edge parts. And some of the people on NLG have slot parts for sale. These machines are popular so many people are familiar with them.

The machines I've messed with had the electronic coin comparators, you just insert a sample coin into it and then it accepts similar coins. They easily work with real quarters or quarter sized game tokens. I'm not sure if game tokens will work with a coin mech that is made for real quarters. Some of the game tokens are magnetic and others are not. Coin mechs made for real coins are made to reject slugs and they use magnetics to do that. Others here will hopefully say something about that. The 130-25 mech you are using now with real quarters might work fine with certain game tokens that are not magnetic.

I think you'll be much happier using quarters or quarter sized tokens. 

Please post a picture of your mpu when you get a chance. Also, where did you find this goody and if you don't mind, what was the cost? Thanks!

[Danger86]

There are several places that sell replacement glass but depending on the specific one it can be easy or hard to find. You can ask around here for leads on that, also ebay often has Player's Edge parts. And some of the people on NLG have slot parts for sale. These machines are popular so many people are familiar with them.

The machines I've messes with had the electronic coin comparators, you just insert a sample coin into it and then it accepts similar coins. They easily work with real quarters or quarter sized game tokens. I'm not sure if game tokens will work with a coin mech that is made for real quarters. Some of the game tokens are magnetic and others are not. Coin mechs made for real coins are made to reject slugs and they use magnetics to do that. Others here will hopefully say something about that. The 130-25 mech you are using now with real quarters might work fine with certain game tokens that are not magnetic.

I think you'll be much happier using quarters or quarter sized tokens. 

Please post a picture of your mpu when you get a chance. Also, where did you find this goody and if you don't mind, what was the cost? Thanks!

I wonder if mine is capable of having a coin comparator? By the coin mech there are two little connectors that aren't hooked up to anything... I'll have to snap a picture of that area and upload it tonight.

Yeah the more I think about it quarter size tokens will be the way to go. Then I can change the denomination on the machine and I don't have to worry about anything else. Can you tell me where the MPU is on this machine and how to get to it? I'll definitely take pictures of it once I know where it is lol.

I got it off an auction from a place called World Wide Gaming in Hamel MN. The auction was for $375. I added on the jackpot key, Lock, and after buyers premium I was out the door at 460ish.

[rokgpsman]

From one of your pictures showing the lower area I think your mpu is behind the hopper. It stands vertically near the wall. The hopper just slides out, it has a pull handle. Behind it on the back wall is a metal panel. If it has a pull knob on top that's the mpu. Just pull upward and slightly toward you, may have to rock it a little side to side, the metal panel (tray) should disconnect from below. The mpu board is hidden from view, it is mounted to the inside of this metal tray/panel. If you don't see it from my description post more pictures of the internal areas of your machine and we'll point it out. It will be a little heavy, the metal tray is strong and rugged.

I'd say you can add a coin comparitor if necessary or wanted but I'd better let others say for sure. But if yours will work with a simple coin mech that accepts game tokens that will be fine. There's some guys here that log in later in the evening, they are pretty familiar with these machines and can say for sure.

I'm headed out for some errands, will check back later.

[Jim]

You would have to inspect the harness where the coin optic plugs into ( coin optic is directly beneath the coin acceptor)  if it has another plug (6 pin) attached to it.
You can use an IMONEX acceptor, black plastic acceptor, no moving parts, certain models will accept both quarter and .984 tokens (size you need).   probably runs about 25.00    tokens (new, same size and metallic content) run around 10 cents each, probably would need around 500 to 700 (for play and payout purposes)  .

I have all of the above and the glass as well,  glass is 45.00   plus shipping.

your machine will only work with the board in it, you have plugs that are inserted into the circuit board, the superboard  has connectors on it that are plugged into a motherboard.

Hope this helps

Jim
     

[Danger86]

Looks like I don't have the plug for a cc. Pulled my board out and snapped some pictures. Played with the dip switches trying to get the pay table on the screen but the three I tried didn't do anything that I could notice.

[rokgpsman]

Looks like I don't have the plug for a cc. Pulled my board out and snapped some pictures. Played with the dip switches trying to get the pay table on the screen but the three I tried didn't do anything that I could notice.

Certain things like the Double Up feature, Pay Table displayed on screen, credit play, hopper limits, etc can be changed by setting the dipswitches. Be careful messing with dipswitch #1, it is for the a/c power line frequency, should be set to 60 hz for USA, selecting 50 hz could affect things in a bad way.

Here is what each dipswitch on the mpu does, it should be valid for your machine but if not let us know:

[Danger86]

Certain things like the Double Up feature, Pay Table displayed on screen, credit play, hopper limits, etc can be changed by setting the dipswitches.

Here is what each dipswitch on the mpu does, it should be valid for your machine but if not let us know:

Just flipped switch 8 to on and put it all back together. Turned the machine on and no pay table on screen... Does something need to be set under one of the menus?

[rokgpsman]

Just flipped switch 8 to on and put it all back together. Turned the machine on and no pay table on screen... Does something need to be set under one of the menus?

I didn't think so, are you sure it is #8 you set? If so maybe try flipping it on & off a few times and try again.
If it still doesn't work it could be that some game software ignores that dipswitch. If the game software won't show the paytable on screen that may be why they had the glass that showed the paytable.

Does the dipswitch # 4 turn off that Double Up feature? My father-in-law loves that feature but my wife hates it.

Looks like your battery and the area around it is clean, no leakage from what I can see. I think I can see that the battery is dated from 1994 but as long as it is about 3.0 volts or higher the game will play. On my machine if the battery gets below that I get a Low Battery warning.

Below is your mpu photo with some notes I added:

[rokgpsman]

In the lower part of the machine is the power supply. There is a White pushbutton there, it is used to bring up the diagnostic and preferences menu screens. You can press it and walk thru the screens to get familiar with them. Also nearby there is a chrome toggle switch, it is the main power switch. Many home owners leave it in the ON position and plug the machine power cord into a power strip, turn the machine on and off with the power strip switch, saves having to open the machine door each time.

My machine is a PE+, which is similar, but there are differences so some of the stuff I'm familiar with and mention may not be the same on your machine.

[Danger86]

In the lower part of the machine is the power supply. There is a White pushbutton there, it is used to bring up the diagnostic menu screens. You can press it and walk thru the screens to get familiar with them. Also nearby there is a chrome toggle switch, it is the main power switch. Many home owners leave it in the ON position and plug the machine power cord into a power strip, turn the machine on and off with the power strip switch, saves having to open the machine door each time.

I appreciate the picture captions. I had no idea what anything was on the board. I did get the denomination changed using the white test switch. Also changed he deal speed to the fastest setting. I keep he switch inside on and use a surge protector to turn it on and off for that exact reason 😄

[rokgpsman]

In the lower part of the machine is the power supply. There is a White pushbutton there, it is used to bring up the diagnostic menu screens. You can press it and walk thru the screens to get familiar with them. Also nearby there is a chrome toggle switch, it is the main power switch. Many home owners leave it in the ON position and plug the machine power cord into a power strip, turn the machine on and off with the power strip switch, saves having to open the machine door each time.

I appreciate the picture captions. I had no idea what anything was on the board. I did get the denomination changed using the white test switch. Also changed he deal speed to the fastest setting. I keep he switch inside on and use a surge protector to turn it on and off for that exact reason

I haven't done it but if you wanted to change the game to Jacks or Better for example, you'd change the game eproms on the board. I think the CAP (Color Attribute Prom) chip (the one in yellow oval in photo) is a general purpose color graphics chip that works with many different game sets and you wouldn't have to change it out. You can ask around and some of the hobbyists here could probably help you get another set of eproms for a different game if you wanted. Also, you can buy another mpu board and put a different set of game chips on it, then it would be easy (and less chance of bending/breaking an eprom leg) to change games. Changing mpu boards is really easy if they are both in their own metal tray. And the tray helps protect the mpu board when it isn't installed in the machine.


 

[rokgpsman]

.....When I brought it home it wasn't accepting quarters and the coin mech said QST on the sticker. I found a 130-25 coin mech to accept quarters for 7 bucks and put that in and now I have no issues. Is the QST coin mech for quarter size tokens?

Here is a picture of what Suzo-Happ (a major parts supplier for gaming/arcade machines) calls a "QST" coin mech. The description on their website implies that QST does mean Quarter Sized Token. They say that coins or tokens somewhat smaller and larger than a quarter will also work. This place has a lot of parts but you have to watch out for their shipping charges, can be surprisingly high sometimes.

http://na.suzohapp.com/amusement_products/coin_doors/42-3070-100

[knagl]

Looks like a PE to me, I think the PE+ models have an embedded (built-in) bill acceptor but I could be wrong about that. The PE models don't have a way to add a bill acceptor internally but some did have a bill acceptor mounted on the side of the machine.

Danger86's machine is a PE (non-plus) machine.  Early PE+ machines did not have bill validators, but you could add one on the side of the machine as you mentioned.  I'm not sure that the PE (non-plus) could do that, though.

Later on IGT came out with what is called a superboard, it is a deluxe mpu board that allows an eprom set that has 5 games at the same time, called multipoker. You might be able to install one of these.

The Superboard was made for the PE+ -- to the best of my knowledge, it will not work in a PE (non-plus) since the board connectors are not the same.


Also, to give a little more detail than anyone probably wants on the chips you highlighted in yellow on the board, here's what they all do (click to enlarge):




When switching from one video poker game to another, you can typically get away with just switching the game (GMO) chip, as the card graphics remain the same.

[Danger86]

Thanks for all the replies everyone!

I have a Terrible's Herbst car wash token and tried it with the QST coin mech and it works! My QST coin mech will only work with tokens because it rejects quarters which will be perfect. I've already got the denomination on the machine changed. Now to order tokens!

I'm having a poker game tomorrow night so it'll be getting some use when people want to take a break for a minute from the live game

[rokgpsman]

Looks like a PE to me, I think the PE+ models have an embedded (built-in) bill acceptor but I could be wrong about that. The PE models don't have a way to add a bill acceptor internally but some did have a bill acceptor mounted on the side of the machine.

Danger86's machine is a PE (non-plus) machine.  Early PE+ machines did not have bill validators, but you could add one on the side of the machine as you mentioned.  I'm not sure that the PE (non-plus) could do that, though.

Later on IGT came out with what is called a superboard, it is a deluxe mpu board that allows an eprom set that has 5 games at the same time, called multipoker. You might be able to install one of these.

The Superboard was made for the PE+ -- to the best of my knowledge, it will not work in a PE (non-plus) since the board connectors are not the same.


Also, to give a little more detail than anyone probably wants on the chips you highlighted in yellow on the board, here's what they all do (click to enlarge):




When switching from one video poker game to another, you can typically get away with just switching the game (GMO) chip, as the card graphics remain the same.

Thanks Kevin for the extra details you provided, I like learning more about these so it is helpful. And I appreciate the corrections and clarifications.

That's too bad the superboard won't work in the PE, but since he only has to change the GM0 eprom to install a different game then it isn't too difficult to switch over to another game.

[knagl]

Thanks for the extra details you provided, I like learning more about these so it is helpful. And I appreciate the corrections and clarifications.

That's too bad the superboard won't work in the PE, but since he only has to change the GM0 eprom to install a different game then it isn't too difficult to switch over to another game.

In theory, that's all that should be required to switch between two similar card games.  My knowledge is based on what I've learned from Jim (Stolistic) with the PE+, but many of the same concepts, such as the graphics chips and CAP chip, etc., apply to its predecessor.  Many -- but certainly not all -- PE+ graphics sets will work interchangeably with different GAME or GAME+DATA chipsets when it comes to paytable variations on basic video poker card games, since the graphics chips typically contain the same graphics (card numbers/letters, basic alphabetic letters, etc.) in the same spaces on the graphics EPROMs.