WBA 12 SS - Likes 10's and 1's, but took a 20 and 100 a few times. ???

[shortrackskater]

I have a WBA 12 SS in the S2000 I'm trying to sell.
It was taking new 10's and 1's all the time. Occasionally it would take a  new20 and a new 100 dollar bill.
Until just NOW, it was still taking 10's.
Now it won't take anything.
I've checked/cleaned gunk off belts, cleaned optics. Everything looks good from my limited knowledge on these.
I've changed nothing in my settings that I know of. I changed the game and that was fine - the DBV worked until just now!
 
Does this machine not want me to sell it???

[Yoeddy1]

Might need a calibration.  Ping Roz and see if she has any JCM calibration papers for sale.

Thanks,
Jason

[shortrackskater]

Might need a calibration.  Ping Roz and see if she has any JCM calibration papers for sale.

I think this may be beyond my skills...

I did swap out the transport with another working one and it's fine. Just wanted to rule out any machine settings I may have messed up.

[rokgpsman]

Might need a calibration.  Ping Roz and see if she has any JCM calibration papers for sale.

I think this may be beyond my skills...

I did swap out the transport with another working one and it's fine. Just wanted to rule out any machine settings I may have messed up.

You can send the head (front end unit) out for test, cal & repair, there are vendors here that can do it, some for a flat rate.

[shortrackskater]

But is it just cheaper to get a used working head?
I just cleaned the optics... maybe too harsh but I used plastic lens polish. I carefully wiped it off and now it takes 10's again.
What's frustrating is that I have a potential buyer for it now... which I'll have to call and tell him it's no longer available.

[rokgpsman]

But is it just cheaper to get a used working head?
I just cleaned the optics... maybe too harsh but I used plastic lens polish. I carefully wiped it off and now it takes 10's again.
What's frustrating is that I have a potential buyer for it now... which I'll have to call and tell him it's no longer available.

It is late tonight, you might get more expert help tomorrow during better hours.

I'm not a WBA expert, but I think they generally say to use isopropyl or denatured alcohol to clean the rollers and lens. *EDIT-This is wrong, do not use alcohol to clean a bill acceptor head*.  Be careful with any belts, don't want to stretch them or use a chem that will break down the rubber material. Be careful not to leave lint or other material behind when cleaning.

Have you checked the game settings to make sure all bills are enabled for acceptance?

It is possibly cheaper & quicker to replace it rather than send it out. You can check several places like ebay, rudy's deals, and here on NLG (put a WTB post in the classified section). Maybe if you get it partially working with a good cleaning you can go ahead and sell the machine, tell him the bill validator is acting up, that you have ordered another bill validator and will replace it when it comes in (hopefully it is a local sale). If handled right the buyer can see that you are being conscientious about this and it will turn out as a positive thing. Used slots have lots of mechanical parts with wear time, any of them can cause a problem at any time.

You are getting the head fully engaged when installing it, right? and ensure all of the connectors & cables are completely plugged in to the bill validator. If any cable is not making proper contact on the validator or on the backplane on the other end you can have problems. Maybe something concerning the bill validator got disturbed when you were doing the game change and clean up.

[shortrackskater]

The other thing it's doing is not pushing the bill out with much force... seems loose. I didn't notice that until it started to reject all the bills.
I wish I could just shove a DBV-200 in there. I have two of those laying around! 

I think I may do exactly what you said and just get another one... or two maybe!
Roz?

[rokgpsman]

The other thing it's doing is not pushing the bill out with much force... seems loose. I didn't notice that until it started to reject all the bills.
I wish I could just shove a DBV-200 in there. I have two of those laying around! 

I think I may do exactly what you said and just get another one... or two maybe!
Roz?

She might have them, won't hurt to check with her.
you can look her up here on NLG, she goes by name of  cvslots
check the NLG Member List above on main menu and
go to her profile and click on private message,
or find a comment she made in one of the forums and click on private message on the left side of her comment

http://www.centralvalleyslots.com

[shortrackskater]

oops sorry I meant that "Roz" as a message to her... not a question. 
Thank you though... I have all her info... buy from them frequently.

[rokgpsman]

oh, I thought you were asking who was Roz.   

If you decide to get another head and it turns out you can fix this one you can probably use it down the road so no harm. In your first post about this problem you said even back before you did the work on the machine it would sometimes take a new $20 or $100. That sounds like it was a little flaky even then, since it should either take them all the time or never. You should be able to see what version of software is in the bill validator by checking for a label, and then check the JCM website (or ask here) to see exactly which bills it should accept.

It seems like someone said that a DBV-200 head would work with a WMA transport but I don't remember the details so I might be mixed up on that, and you might need a different head cable to do that.

When you were cleaning things in the WBA did any of the rollers or belts seem overly loose, sloppy? Was there any slick stuff like grease or other substance on the moving parts. When it spits the bill back it should be pinched firmly and come out strongly. Maybe that is a clue the bill is also slipping when feeding inward and it doesn't get scanned properly.

[Buzz]

How bad do you want to sell the machine ? It's up to you but I can test yours in a machine, and I have some spares if yours won't work. Just a guess but it's about a hour and 15 minutes from your house to  mine.  ( about 1/2 way between Palmdale and Victorville )
 
Check that all the dip switches on the transport are in the up position ( up is off because the dip switches are installed upside down.) It's possible the BV lost it's CRC so open and close the main door latch 3 or 4 times. ( A S 2000 will recalculate the CRC using the door latch, a Game King or I Game will not ) Are you sure your getting the cash can in all the way ? Is the cash can door switch bypassed ? ( If no, it needs to be )
 
No you are not suppose to use any kind of alcohol on the optics or belts. alcohol drys out the belts and it will cloud the plastic optics. What I do is spit on a rag and spread my DNA all over the optics.
 
Lets get a couple of terms straight, a WBA has two main parts, the head and the transport. To remove the head there is a round bar just above the flat bar you push down to remove the complete unit from the machine. Push down on the round bar and pull on the bill  bezel and the head will come loose from the transport. ( it just plugs in )  Now I'm maybe  going to overload my butt on this statement, but I think any head will work on any transport. In other words you could say put a head from a 10 transport on a 13 transport.
 
Here's one thing that anyone that's going to mess around with BVs needs to learn. When a BV cycles each time the machine is turned on that cycle will always sound the same, sometimes faster or slower but the same sounds will be there. If the sounds are off, that BV is not going to work. There is no way I can explane the sounds you just have to listen and learn.
 
NO a DBV head will not fit on a WBA transport.

[CVslots]

Heads will work on just about any transport. Sure, if you put an older head on a newer transport, you may not get "4 way" bill acceptance, but it will work.


Mark, you have other S2000s right? Save yourself a drive to Buzz's house (unless you just feel like driving) and snag a validator out of one of those for now. You can trouble shoot or repair the problem child WBA whenever.

[rickhunter]

Any wba head will work with any wba transport.  The 1 way vs 4 way acceptance is purely a transport issue.  The WBA 10/11's do not do 4 way acceptance because there isn't enough room in the memory/eprom to have the necessary data for 4 way acceptance, basically "scanned" images of the bills in 4 directions, that is really the only reason.

[shortrackskater]

Thanks Buzz for the offer -  tempting to take the that drive, but I have a lot of work days ahead so I may have to make due with what I have.
I already used a dab of 99% isoproply on the optics. 
But it worked after that for awhile... and then the next night, it went back to the intermittent taking of bills. Then it stopped again and I used the plastic lens cleaner I had... and it resumed taking the 10's. That's also when it took a 20 dollar bill.
Then it went back to being intermittent and then taking only a 10 dollar bill once in a while.
I KNOW I SHOULD HAVE KNOWN BETTER and not used the alcohol! I'm sure it's written all over NLG to not do what I did. 

I have flipped up the head of course, when I "cleaned" the optics. Haven't tried removing the head but maybe I will later after work. I'll check the DIP switches just for the hell of it, but again... it has sporadically taken  1, 10, 20, 100 dollar bills. I did have the entire unit out of the machine. I wiped the belts and looked for any debris. The belts DO seem loose though. Pressing POST now because my laptop battery is dyi

[Buzz]

Well a offer is a offer and it's good day or night.
 
I would say the CRC is good if it excepts bills sometimes. Removing the head doesn't do a damn thing except making you think you did something. As for as loose belts I have never tried to replace one and it looks like a pure bitch to replace one. Now if a belt is so loose that the bill isn't pulled in fast enough there is a good chance the BV is going to reject that bill. And if a belt is that loose the damage is already done so it won't do any more harm no matter what you put on the belt. That said in the rock plants if a conveyor belt started slipping they would squirt Purex on the drum. ( same stuff your Wife uses in the laundry) Now I'm not telling you to use Purex but if a belt is a lost cause, why not !! I've been known to wipe the belts with soap and water, or even use a pencil eraser to take the glaze off of them.
 
Let me address something you said in reply #2 about your skills in using calibration paper. Your correct in leaving this to the experts. It's quite a mess to attempt on your own, first you have to remove the BV from the machine and turn on #5 6 7 &8 dip switchs   next reinstall the BV, turn power on to the machine, now the hard part, insert the calibration paper like a dollar bill, black end first, no right or wrong side. BV will pull and push out the calibration paper a few times and when done will reject the paper like a bad bill. Remove BV from machine, turn dip switchs back to OFF reinstall BV and your now a expert on recalibrating a BV. Here is a link to a pretty good Youtube  video that was made by one of our members when he worked for JCM  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ns6gckieHyo

[CVslots]

Bottom line, I on your situation, Just swap the G*%# D%*#^ validator with one of your working ones!! Sorry, but if you are trying to sell a game, then sell it!!!

[shortrackskater]

I'll do it! But now the buyer hasn't returned my call back... hmmm
I can use the WBA 13 from my Top Dollar or the WBA 11 from my Butterfly Sevens. And difference I should know about?
And I do want to replace these or fix my other WBA 11's. I have no idea of prices if I want to replace them.

UPDATE - I put in the WBA 11 from my Butterfly Sevens into the game for sale. Now I hope the guy calls back. 

[Buzz]

I really really doubt that you have a WBA 11 in a S 2000  Oh sure a bunch of wiring could be changed around to make a 11 fit but why would anyone want too.
 
Now in this very thread three of us told you that any  wba head will work with any wba transport, so when you are trying to figure out which WBA you have look at the tag on the transport and not the tag on the head. The electrical plug from the transport to the machine on a WBA 10 & 11 is different than the plug on a WBA 12 & 13 Mark do you still have a S+  with a WBA ? If you do pull the BV out and compare the rear plug to a BV from one of your S 2000.

[shortrackskater]

This is what happens when I post late after work and after wine... 

It IS a WBA 12... sorry about that Buzz.

I'll check out the rear plugs on my s plus, and s2000. One of my s2000's had a MARS validator as well.
And I'll compare my two non functional transports that I've been messing with. One still takes 10's all the time. I'll check the transport to see what they are. The heads have a hinge I can see. I've looked through NLG ( to avoid repeating the same questions!) but I can't see any post on head removal. I'll mess with them when I get home.
I just hope this buyer... buys! The machine is working fine now that I swapped out the BV.

[CVslots]

Pull down on the little round bar, and use a flat head screwdriver to pry the head away from the transport. They will not release on their own. Just pry on them just a tad to get them started.