Those don’t last long and are know to corrode, destroying the board.

If you have the sound board with the 2 046 eproms it will be louder than the rest of the games. Try pulling the sound board and see what that does. You will lose some of the custom sounds but it should level out the volume with the rest of the games.

I would try re-seating the button deck I/O card.... with the power switch OFF.
Maybe one of the grounding female pins in the I/O socket on the reverse door panel has become oxidized, and is not getting the greatest contact with the male pins of the card?
If that doesn't help, swap the I/O card from the other cabinet into this one - to see if they work as "sensitive".
If they're not as responsive as you'd like, remove a lamp from a button.
Why?
What I've found out is that if you're using some of these after-market LED lamps, they're just a touch too large in diameter.
The lamps' main body, rubs against the return spring inside the button assembly, causing friction and junky or stuck action/movement.
If you want to continue using slightly oversized LED lamps, you might have to take a piece of sandpaper and sand down the widest part of the plastic bulb smaller just a little bit, so it works more smoothly.
or
Replace the LED bulbs with original incandescent glass lamps.

Since you've been hammering these buttons in attempt to get them to work, it's possible that it's just some sort of a signal problem...that's why I first mentioned possible oxidized contact pins.
Re-plug the door harness at the backplane header Molex as well.

Okay, I will take a deeper look and play with the I/O card. In the case that I swap I/O cards... and the buttons begin to work perfectly... does that mean the I/O card needs to be replaced?

What exactly do you mean by "re-seat" though?

Also, I could've been clearer here... when I replaced the original buttons with the Spin buttons... I also replaced the microswitches/bulbs with the microswitches/LEDs that the Spin button kit came with. I was not using just Spin buttons with the microswitches/bulbs the machine came with... also because they would not fit together. Now, I've removed the Spin button kit and went back to using the original buttons and microswitches/bulbs.

A quick question since we are on the topic of the SPIN buttons.  I had the same issue with the bulbs being in backwards and needing to turn them around.  The problem is that the Spin buttons seem cheap and clunky compared to the originals.  Is there anyone out there making quality buttons?  It would be nice to get the handle graphic on spin also, which the new buttons don't have.

Thanks,

Newbooty

Yah, instead of turning the LEDs around I just flip-flopped the wires going to them. You are right when you say clunky, can't say for sure on cheap though, although they don't necessarily fit snuggly because the smaller buttons wiggle and rotate. Again, you're right, the handle graphic is not on the Spin buttons, so I took the one from the original buttons. HOWEVER... the smaller button graphics from the smaller original buttons are all squished in the smaller Spin buttons. So the graphics from original buttons are not guaranteed to fit properly in the Spin buttons.

Sounds like the wires are not correct terminals on the microswitches.

The buttons work though... just not all the time.

Oops didn't see that one from the Penny Arcade!
What about the post from NLG?

That didn't really help either unfortunately

One way to check for immediate issues is to set your meter to Diode setting and check the following connections with no power applied. These tests do not prove the components are working, it just helps identify if they are shorted.

On XRC5184
1. Black lead on pin 10, red lead on pin 9
2. Black lead on pin 15, red lead on pin 16
Both of these should read like a diode but not a dead short. Many times when the XRC5184 fails one of these pairs goes dead short or open. You can also put black lead on pin one and check all other pins on the IC with red. None should be shorted, just the occasional diode chirp. If none of these two is shorted it is likely something downstream causing the shut down.

Vertical IC (192), if this component is shorted the board will go into shut down.
1.  Put black lead on pin 1
2.  No other leads should read dead short to pin 1 or ground. A few will read like a diode but none should short. If any are shorted you must replace the vertical IC.

Chris

Hi Chris,

I had a chance to test 5194 and the Vert IC in Diode mode with the multi-meter. 10-9 checked out fine at .591 and 15-16 was .662. When putting the black lead on pin 1 I got reading ranging from .643 up to 1.53 and pins 6 12 13 14 15 showing OL (open loop). Ive attached a picture of the recorded readings. When checking the Vert IC (black on pin 1) the reading started low (in the .7-.8 range) and increased except for pin 4 which stayed at .637.

I'm a pretty inexperienced with this but based off of what I understand from you, both these chips might be bad?

Thanks again for everything!

Chris