Author Topic: Help with Coral Reef! (Read 7959 times)

sgolembiewski0903 · « **on:** September 20, 2018, 07:47:36 PM »

I bought a IGT Coral Reef slot ($.25) and am having some trouble with it. I figured I'd try fixing it myself with some advice from you guys before I call somebody in! Here's what I can tell you about it:

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/QfGdzTP

It turns on, light up, looks good, and the hopper has $250 in it
The red and white light on top are alternating flashing
The credit display, paid display, etc all have nothing in them
After messing with it, one time it got to the point that every 4th spin it would display the same symbols (pic wtih the Coral Reef symbol included)
After messing with it other times, and turning the cabinet key (and hearing the machine make a noise when doing so) it will let me pull the arm, and it will result in the same set of symbols every time (the 3 bar pic)

rokgpsman · « **Reply #1 on:** September 20, 2018, 08:01:30 PM »

Remove the mpu board from the machine, it is located in the lower part of the cabinet, mounted to the backside of a metal tray. You will see a round black knob attached to the tray. Then examine the mpu board for battery leakage or other liquid contamination. This is always a good idea on a machine that is new to you, otherwise you don't know what condition the mpu board is in.

Post a photo of the socketed chips on the mpu board so we can verify they are the correct chips.

erbs · « **Reply #2 on:** September 21, 2018, 01:01:53 PM »

Make sure the power is OFF before removing the mpu board.

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 21, 2018, 01:38:30 PM »

https://imgur.com/a/lLrGsWv

Thx for the help! So I'm not entirely sure how to remove the metal tray with the knob on it to get to the MPU on the backside, any tricks to this? It seems like it doesn't want to go? It goes straight up and down, right? I see there's a circle key lock, I don't have the key for that... will that be an issue (it may be unlocked, not sure though... the sellers said the store that sold them the machine in LV only gave them the ONE cabinet key)

Also, side note, on the pic with my finger pointing at someting, what is that thing? There's a little chute that leads to a hole at the bottom of the machine??

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 21, 2018, 01:44:01 PM »

**SCRATCH THAT**

I got it removed, here are some pics. It looks very clean.

https://imgur.com/a/eyCg7uk

sixcardmark · « **Reply #5 on:** September 21, 2018, 01:57:51 PM »

Quote from: sgolembiewski0903 on September 21, 2018, 01:38:30 PM

Also, side note, on the pic with my finger pointing at someting, what is that thing? There's a little chute that leads to a hole at the bottom of the machine??

hopper overflow, if coins reach a set level they are diverted to go into the stand down below.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #6 on:** September 21, 2018, 07:14:21 PM »

Your mpu board photo shows that your SS chip is an SS4280 and the SP chip is SP872. The SS chip is for the particular game in the machine (Coral Reef), the SP chip has the overall operating software for the machine.

Here is the NLG game page for your 3 coin Coral Reef game. The upper and lower glass images shown may look different. Notice in the chart that SS4280 is for a 90% player payback percentage.

http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Coral%20Reef%20(3%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm

The round blue knob on the edge of your mpu board is the volume adjustment for game sounds. And having that volume adjustment means your mpu board is the 10mhz style (instead of the 16mhz style).

The blue dipswitch on your mpu board can be used to control certain settings, this is handled by the SP872 chip.
See image below:

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 21, 2018, 11:52:22 PM »

Wow! That is some great info! Really glad to know all of that! Thanks a ton, I was wondering about how much the payout was set at!

Knowing that, does it provide any insight for you guys on how I should proceed troubleshooting the machine to get it to work?

rokgpsman · « **Reply #8 on:** September 22, 2018, 03:31:27 AM »

Like you said, the mpu board does look clean, didn't see anything questionable. Can you go over what happens when you insert a quarter, does it register and give you a credit, then you can spin the reels? With the machine power on if you try to turn the reels by hand do they have a resistance and stiffness? If so that is good, means they are getting power.

Make sure all 3 fuses are good. Visual inspection is not reliable, best to use a meter because the fuse filament inside can be broken where it attaches to the fuse end inside. Check that the wiring cables are connected to the credit display and also to the lamp board that sits below the reel glass. If they are not lighting up that needs to be figured out. Finding out why may lead to fixing the machine completely. Do you have another mpu board to try? If may look great but still be inop.

Post photos of anything questionable.

When you turn the reset key on the side of the machine you may be entering the bookkeeping menu system and part of what it will do is let you check the reels, like showing you the last previous spin recorded by the machine. And it will let you step thru the paytable reel positions. Is that maybe what is going on?

What does the machine do if you insert a quarter and spin the reels with the door closed? Or you can do this:

Open the door and have machine power on. Below the coin comparitor are the coin optic boards, one is mounted behind the front one. In the lower left corner of the coin optic board there is a small switch, usually a pushbutton. Press on this switch a couple of times, it should put a test credit on the machine each time it is pressed. If it does then press the spin button on front of machine and see if the reels spin normally.

The motherboard is the smaller board that is mounted horizontally on the bottom floor of the machine. The mpu plugs into it vertically. You may need to inspect the motherboard to make sure all cables are connected fully, that there isn't some metal object underneath it. When a machine gets transported if it is laid down on its side or back often loose objects like coins, screws, washers, etc will bounce around and can lodge on or under circuit boards and cause a problem.

Also, on the front edge of the motherboard is a white connector, this is the power supply cable. Make sure that connector does not have any darkened areas on it, check the backside also. Probably not what's causing the problem you mentioned but something to make sure about on any S+ machine that is new to you, as it is a common fail and can cause a problem later. See photo below.

Your problem is unusual so you will need to give us as much info as you can.

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 22, 2018, 01:31:32 PM »

I'm about to go through all the items you mentioned, but real quick a few answers:
The quarters just falls straight through to the tray
The reels do have some resistance, as in when I try to move one it gives me a little resistance before it clicks into the next position
I don't have another MPU
If it is going into bookkeeping mode, it is not going through different reel positions, when it does let me spin it's just showing the same positions

rokgpsman · « **Reply #10 on:** September 22, 2018, 01:36:54 PM »

The reels stopping at the same position each time is an odd problem to me, but others here with more experience on the S+ models can probably help. On the credit display and the lamp board under the reel glass, have you made sure all the cables are connected at each end of the cable? Make sure the motherboard cables are ok. You can remove the hopper and stick your head in there with a light and take a good look. Don't forget about loose metal objects likes coins or screws that can get underneath or on top of the motherboard.

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 22, 2018, 01:56:29 PM »

Awesome, I'll make sure to do that. I know it's been moved once or twice so I'm hoping it's a simple fix! Should I check the battery with a multimeter when I have the MPU out? Also, I hate to sound too dumb, if I do check it with a multimeter, what should I be checking? I've never had a formal education with a multimeter, for the most part I have a friend help me out with setting it up (i.e. turning the dial on the multimeter to the right "mode") or it's already been setup and ready to go so all I have to do is read it!

rokgpsman · « **Reply #12 on:** September 22, 2018, 02:09:42 PM »

yes, while the mpu is out of the machine it is always good to check the battery, particularly if you don't know how old it is. They typically last a few years.

The battery is a DC voltage, when new it is 3.6 volts DC. When it gets down to about 2.5 volts it is time to replace it, but usually the machine will give you an error before that.

The meter will have a knob or selector switches that lets you select AC of DC voltage. Select DC voltage. The meter will also have a voltage range that you select different voltage ranges, from low to high voltage, something like 2-20 volts, 20-50 volts and 50-100 volts, etc. So pick the voltage range that fits what you are measuring, in this case you know the battery will be somewhere around 3.6 volts or less. There are a lot of different meters so yours will not be the same as mine.

After selecting the proper DC volts range you put the black meter lead probe tip on the - (negative) end of the battery and the red meter lead probe tip on the + (positive) end of the battery and the meter will display the volts it is measuring. Don't let your fingers touch the bare metal part of the meter probe, in this case it won't shock you since the battery voltage is so low but it is a bad habit to get into. The next time you might be measuring a high voltage.

Depending on the meter it might have other modes besides AC and DC volts. Often there are resistance or ohms or continuity modes. There should be an instruction sheet or manual for the meter, if it has been lost you can probably find it online for that meter by using the meter brand and model number. Reading over those instructions will tell you exactly what the meter is capable of doing and how to use it.

Nearly all of the electrical signals for the machine goes thru the motherboard - that's why it's called that name. Because it is located at the bottom of the machine all kinds of trash and crap can fall onto it or under it. That's why it is important to look it over carefully. With the mpu removed you should be able to see the top of the motherboard, but if you need to it isn't hard to remove from the machine. There could be a quarter stuck underneath at the back, shorting against the bottom side of the motherboard.

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 22, 2018, 02:23:11 PM »

About to test it, thanks for the directions. Here are some pics I took from my machine inspections. I noticed a few cords and etc. that weren't plugged in. Not sure if any of this is significant... I know from my vending machine days that machines often have a lot of cords not plugged in intentionally.
Also, would it be beneficial if I blew out the motherboard with compressed air?

https://imgur.com/a/Lzm4hfB

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 22, 2018, 02:29:59 PM »

I just tested the battery. Got a ZERO reading! I tested another new battery I have on hand (a 1.5 volt) to make sure that the meter was working, and it tested fine...

More photos.......

rokgpsman · « **Reply #15 on:** September 22, 2018, 04:21:38 PM »

You will need to get that dead battery replaced. Look for what is called a "1/2 AA lithium battery, 3.6 volts". They are made by a variety of companies. If you aren't able to solder it to the mpu board there are sometimes stores in your city that will do that for you, such as Batteries Plus.

Your mpu looks clean already but you can clean the board if it is really dusty in areas, but be careful. Compressed air is often high speed and that can cause a lot of static electricity which will zap electronics. Better to just leave it alone or brush clean with a soft brush slowly. If you have fairly high humidity conditions where you are there is less chance of static elec but be careful. If the mpu board is working ok don't go crazy trying to get it spotless, a little dry layer of dust is not causing it to malfunction.

You're right, there are often unused cables inside a slot machine. The casino will often remove their auxiliary equipment, such as player tracking units, casino network connection boards, etc. If those cables are disconnected at each end they can be removed. Or you can just bundle them up neatly and put a ziptie on them to get them out of the way.

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 22, 2018, 04:51:05 PM »

I think I'll be fine to solder the battery on, any special advice for that? I've never used flux before when soldering but I've heard that it's a "must" when doing these battery swaps!

rokgpsman · « **Reply #17 on:** September 22, 2018, 05:01:59 PM »

The solder flux/paste is used to help get a good heat transfer quickly. So it is used when doing any electronic parts replacement. And the solder that is used in electronics also contains flux, it is often called "rosin core" solder. That means it has some flux inside the solder. So solder paste or flux is good. It does leave a dark brown residue afterwards but it is harmless. You can sometimes remove that with a mild solvent like alcohol. Pro shops have a stronger solvent they use. But if you aren't able to get the flux residue removed it isn't a big deal.

When soldering on circuit boards you don't want to keep the hot soldering iron tip touching the board or the component any longer than needed. The solder pad on the circuit board is glued on, so if you overheat it or twist the soldering tip against it forcefully you can cause the solder pad to come off the board - that's bad.

So, let the iron heat up, apply a little flux to the old solder on the old battery connection to the board. Then touch the hot iron to the solder junction and in a few seconds the solder will melt and liquify. Lift the battery lead away from the board. Do the same for the other battery lead and remove the old battery. Remove some of the old solder from the board if it is an excessive glob.

Position the new battery on the board, pay attention to the + and - ends of the battery. Bend the new battery leads as needed so they will lay flat on the board's solder pads. Apply a little solder flux to the solder junction, then while holding the battery steady touch the soldering iron tip to the battery lead and board pad to heat both of them at the same time and add some new solder. The new solder should flow onto the battery lead and the board pad. This should only take a few seconds, don't linger. Don't add too much solder, a common mistake is to apply too much. You just need enough solder to attach the battery lead to the pad. Remove the iron but keep the battery still for a few seconds until the solder has cooled and turned solid. If you move the battery while the solder is still molten then you will get a crummy solder connection.

Post a photo of your results and we'll give you a score - a raspberry or a thumbs-up.

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 22, 2018, 05:09:38 PM »

Great, thanks! Nobody in Casa Grande, AZ has the battery I need, Batteries Plus had it but they didn't have one with the ends on it!

Do any of my machine's symptoms occur from a completely-dead battery?

sgolembiewski0903 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 22, 2018, 05:16:29 PM »

Does the brand matter very much? https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/LITHXL=050FAX?locationofinterest=&locationphysical=9030014&gclid=CjwKCAjw0JfdBRACEiwAiDTALqcj8FrWw487QlYtoAg-00wdlOmeeJIYSzhCNw0atLmWL0ME3p5qURoCEFcQAvD_BwE

Interestingly enough, the cost almost DOUBLEs when you need the battery with the axial leads!

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Author Topic: Help with Coral Reef! (Read 7959 times)