Author Topic: S+ Door Optics not working (Read 1338 times)

JethroP · « **on:** December 30, 2020, 09:56:19 AM »

Fixing up an S+ machine I bought so I don't know it's history. When I received it and nothing powered on correctly I discovered the game chip was in backwards. Turned it around and same issue. I suspect the game chip is fried? So I installed an MPU from a working machine, with good chips and game powered up but had 3100 that I couldn't clear. The door optics are not working to clear the 3100.I tried a RAM clear (maybe not the right thing to do), which didn't work. Now after the clear I can't get past the 61-1 because the door optics still are not working.I have replaced the door and cabinet optics, emitter and receiver and still doesn't work. I have reseated the connections to the motherboard and still no change. Any troubleshooting help at this point greatly appreciated.

Jim · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2020, 10:09:28 AM »

make sure the two green wires underneath the handle mech and laying on top of the power supply modules are connected. these were from the cash can switch, looks like all that stuff was removed.

EMPTY OUT YOUR PM BOX, IT IS FULL.

Jim

JethroP · « **Reply #2 on:** December 30, 2020, 10:13:00 AM »

The cash can switch (green wires) are jumpered.
Also using my camera (iPhone) I looked at the optics on the door and see nothing. I also looked at a working machine and see nothing, so this test doesn't appear to be valid for me (or my iPhone).

JethroP · « **Reply #3 on:** December 30, 2020, 10:23:03 AM »

Started my new post and STAYOUTTADABUNKER message was deleted. In response to his suggestion, see above, i tried using a camera to test the optics but that doesn't seem to work with my iPhone camera.

shortrackskater · « **Reply #4 on:** December 30, 2020, 10:25:50 AM »

Quote from: JethroP on December 30, 2020, 10:23:03 AM

Started my new post and STAYOUTTADABUNKER

Here is the response from Mark (Stayouttadabunker) from the earlier thread which was split:
From Stayouttadabunker:
JethroP,
With the door open, turn on the power switch and look at the door emitter optic on the latch left of the reel glass display panel with a camera.
The door emitter should be giving out an infrared light that you cannot see with your eyes.
If you see a light emitting with your camera, this tells you that the door emitter is working correctly.
Unfortunately, the cabinet receiver optic doesn't emit light...it only receives light.
A camera doesn't help tell you if it's working or not.
Another way to check the cabinet receiver optic is to close the door and observe if the [Coins Played] display changes at all.
It should briefly go out for less than two seconds if it receives any signal from the door emitter optic when it is lined up with the door latch in a fully closed position.
Another thing you could try is swapping each of the suspect door optics one at a time into the good known working cabinet to see if they are any good.

therockinelvis · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2020, 05:49:47 PM »

They each have different color wires. If you mixed them up, they won't work either. Did you do the tape trick for aligning the optics. painters tape on cabinet with pencil mark at the optic. Tape on door with mark at door optic. Close and latch the door and compare marks. If they don't match, adjust

JethroP · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2020, 06:41:07 PM »

I switched the optics from a working machine. I didn't get them mixed up and they are aligned. I have traced continuity from the connectors at the optics to the connectors at the backplane. Could there be a problem with the motherboard? Or what other tests can I try?

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #7 on:** December 30, 2020, 09:04:07 PM »

This is newer video I made about 7 years ago....watch...>>>


https://youtu.be/u8VA6pE_P8M

JethroP · « **Reply #8 on:** December 30, 2020, 09:22:03 PM »

I did a ram clear and after getting the 61 code I press the test button and get 61-1. Close the door and turn the reset key nothing happens....because the machine doesn't sense the door close. The door optics are not working and I have a good set of optics installed. I can't get past the 61-1. How can I fix the door optics?

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #9 on:** December 30, 2020, 09:35:40 PM »

There's 2 wires on the door emitter and 2 wires on the cabinet receiver...trace them back to the motherboard.

Make note of where they are at each end, check for continuity with a multi-meter on each or the four wires with the optics removed and power off.

You may have a broken wire somewhere internally inside of the wire covering that you cannot see with your non-x-ray vision eyes.

Report back with your findings....this is the best way to find out what is wrong other than swapping and then replacing either the harnesses, motherboard or the MPU since the only thing that is KNOWN GOOD, is the optics.

or

Make a pigtail from the emitter connector to the cabinet receiver connector directly - eliminating the optics entirely from your machine.

You have a choice.

JethroP · « **Reply #10 on:** December 30, 2020, 09:41:16 PM »

I have already traced the wires to the backplane board. Continuity is good.

Not sure what you are saying here: Make a pigtail from the emitter connector to the cabinet receiver directly - eliminating the optics entirely from your machine. I've seen various ways people say to bypass the optics, but not sure the correct way. You are saying connect the emitter to the cabinet receiver? Could you describe more completely? Thank you.

JethroP · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2020, 09:44:17 PM »

Also, if the optics are known good, and the continuity checks from them to the motherboard, then is there any benefit to bypassing the optics? Could the problem be on the backplane board? I pulled it out and don't see anything unusual.

jay · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2020, 10:35:59 PM »

Also check your cashbox door.
Usually the lock is removed and the door may not be fully closed or perhaps it opens a bit when the slot door is closed.
A strip of electrical tape or duct tape to hold the cash box door closed is a good idea.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2020, 10:42:17 PM »

If the only you haven't swapped out is the motherboard ( In an S+, that's what we call it...other platforms call their motherboards the "backplane board"), then the problem is with the motherboard....maybe...only if it actually works when you swap it.
If it works, then you have to buy a motherboard.
Now that we know all four optic wires are good, the optics themselves are good, the MPU is good, the motherboard is the only thing you can change out.
Making an optical bypass won't help you here since the wires are good....it's doing the same thing as good optics.

How's the wires on the reset keyswitch...okay?

Pull the wires off of that and see if there's continuity between the two contact tabs when you turn the key.
If you have a bad reset key switch, you'll never reset the machine to get rid of the [61-1] code....that's as bad as having a inoperative optics.

You asked about a bypass...many just run a simple extension of the two wires from the door emitter connector back to the cabinet optic connector...but run them thru a cherry switch in between.
The cherry switch now closes the circuit when the door tab presses against the cherry switch.

JethroP · « **Reply #14 on:** December 30, 2020, 11:46:46 PM »

Quote from: jay on December 30, 2020, 10:35:59 PM

Also check your cashbox door.
Usually the lock is removed and the door may not be fully closed or perhaps it opens a bit when the slot door is closed.
A strip of electrical tape or duct tape to hold the cash box door closed is a good idea.

The cash box door switch is jumpered, and the cash box is installed and door closed.

JethroP · « **Reply #15 on:** December 31, 2020, 12:46:19 AM »

Well i took out the motherboard and installed it in another machine and it works, so now I can dismiss the motherboard.

I checked the reset switch and wires to the motherboard also. No issue there.

I have found something interesting comparing a working machine to this one. Even though I ran continuity checks from optics to the motherboard, the wire doesn't seem to go to where my other 2 S+'s go. That is, on my working machines, the green wire connected to the optic on the door also connects electrically to the green wires on each of the push button switches on the player's panel. But on the machine that isn't working, the green wire at the door optic isn't connected electrically to the push button switches, however, I do trace it to the motherboard.

I have the service manual for the S+ but the connector wire descriptions are different than mine. The manual shows the MPU on the side, but mine is in the back. Maybe I need to double check the wiring harness? Or what?

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #16 on:** December 31, 2020, 01:08:45 AM »

Green wires in an S+ are the ground wires....lamp wires are common and run in series under the button deck back to the motherboard.

You never saw the emitter light with a camera nor told us if you installed the suspect emitter in a known working cabinet.
Just because they're "new" doesn't mean that they are any good and just about any camera in the world can see infrared light.
I would be testing that door emitter in the known good cabinet to rule out any possibility of them being bad.

The manual that you're looking depicts the 1st series of S+'s when those came out.

The wiring is a little bit different than the newer models in that platform with the motherboard and MPU later on moved to the rear wall.

That was they later made a power supply box that's easier to change out.

Members that have contributing status are eligible to see all the manuals/sheets/info that are in an NLG file system.

Donations help keep the website going....throw them a bone or two and you'll have much more stuff you'll be able to see and use here.

okay back to the drawing board.

throw those optics in a good machine and see if they're any good or not.

JethroP · « **Reply #17 on:** December 31, 2020, 07:14:00 AM »

You say "green wires in an S+ are the ground wires....lamp wires are common and run in series under the button deck back to the motherboard." Does that mean the green wires at the door optic, the reset switch, and the lamps ....all the solid green wires, should all be electrically connected?

I installed the suspect emitter and its receiver in another machine and they work(ed) fine.

I've considered contributing to NLG for access to the file system, but haven't because there is no index or table of contents. I'd like to know what I'm getting before I pay. For instance, is there a schematic and parts list for the Bally Gamemaker MPU?

I appreciate your help. I'm going to go back to compariing wiring between machines. Not sure what else it could be?

therockinelvis · « **Reply #18 on:** December 31, 2020, 08:29:35 AM »

Follow the wires from reset switch down behind the bv. I had a machine that had them unplugged. And the donation doesn't go into someone's pocket. It helps pay for the site. We all volunteer our time helping others. The best way to help us is to post pictures or link a video. Remember we can't see the machine. S plus machines are work horses. Never had one I couldn't fix.

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #19 on:** December 31, 2020, 08:43:02 AM »

I donated to NLG many times for all the help I received here over the years.
Can you imagine what it would cost you if you took your machines to a shop to be repaired?
That's the way I look at it.
Plus you're getting a lot of help from people that have been in the business for years.

Every little bit helps to keep this website going.

Can you show us some photos of your wiring near the door emitter?
I want to see the wire colors.
I also need to see the other end of how your cabinet receiver is hooked up.
Also, let's see all the connections on you motherboard with the MPU pulled out.

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Author Topic: S+ Door Optics not working (Read 1338 times)