Author Topic: Model Number? (Read 1605 times)

ncrguy · « **on:** July 01, 2019, 11:15:41 AM »

Just bought my 2nd bally machine
The Tag is missing off the side

I looked thur the service manual but couldn't find it
Anyone able to Identify it?

Needs some TLC but i'm enjoying my new hobby

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #1 on:** July 01, 2019, 12:43:15 PM »

Definitely an old Bally EM Series slot with "EM" standing for Electro-Mechanical

shortrackskater · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2019, 02:31:32 PM »

Well the hopper is from a Bally 922a.

Amechanic · « **Reply #3 on:** July 01, 2019, 05:11:38 PM »

Check the front of the reels assembly for any ungraded numbers. The door and cabinet sometime have tags attached to the wiring harness. That cabinet looks to have been rebuilt into this current game.

GOS · « **Reply #4 on:** July 01, 2019, 06:33:12 PM »

it is a revamp using miscellaneous parts - based on payscale glass - game is a 1088 (buy a pay format). the 922 hopper would be a 5 line game - again most likely modified. If the game is running - does it accept 3 coins?

ncrguy · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2019, 09:15:32 PM »

Quote from: GOS on July 01, 2019, 06:33:12 PM

it is a revamp using miscellaneous parts - based on payscale glass - game is a 1088 (buy a pay format). the 922 hopper would be a 5 line game - again most likely modified. If the game is running - does it accept 3 coins?

Yes it takes 3 coins, the lights up top turn on when the 2nd and 3rd coin go in.

ncrguy · « **Reply #6 on:** July 01, 2019, 09:22:58 PM »

Quote from: Amechanic on July 01, 2019, 05:11:38 PM

Check the front of the reels assembly for any ungraded numbers. The door and cabinet sometime have tags attached to the wiring harness. That cabinet looks to have been rebuilt into this current game.

I looked but i could only find two numbers one is stamped on the door

the other is on the transformer

I'm not sure if they help.

Amechanic · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2019, 09:56:02 PM »

No help. The door number is a casting # and the transformer is the part #.. More then likely as GOS said , rebuilt into a 1088 buy a pay machine. Very common thing to be done.

rdaniel · « **Reply #8 on:** July 01, 2019, 10:02:22 PM »

I would imagine that it takes skill, knowledge and patience to convert a 922A hopper to a 1088 model. That is not to mention rewiring the rest of that machine.

Amechanic · « **Reply #9 on:** July 02, 2019, 12:12:02 AM »

Back in the day, those slot techs could do it without a schematic.

DavidLee · « **Reply #10 on:** July 02, 2019, 07:42:01 PM »

Machine appears to be updated to a buy and pay. Possibly started out as a 922. Or early versions of the 1090 1088 wide body machines. Or a factory update.
Would take some time and effort, but basically would need the three coin odds step up unit, which would separate the payouts into 3rds. The reel wiper boards would need to be slightly modified.
Also new top and reel glass.
Hopefully someone on this site has the exact machine with the ID tag.

ncrguy · « **Reply #11 on:** July 03, 2019, 06:50:39 AM »

Here is the tag, as you can see or can't see where the problem is.

The machine is rusted, whats the best way to clean the pins?

It takes 3 coins and the stepper works, the lights on the top will turn on as the coins go in and all the switches fire as they should, but the light bulbs on the front for deposit coins and coin accepted do not light up? yes the bulbs are good and working from another machine.

I'm chasing ghosts in this machine, the bell will ring on winning pays and non winner pays but won't turn off till you put another coin in.

I found some cut cables but I assume they go to a meter thats no longer installed.

I got a lot of cleaning to do but I got time, and it seems like a lot to do.

DavidLee · « **Reply #12 on:** July 03, 2019, 09:02:15 AM »

The deposit and accepted lights are partially controlled by the coin relay bottom left of the reel mechanism.
Best to clean all switches ( A B C ) on the left side of the reels, check for continuity and adjust if needed.
This may solve the light problem.

Would it be possible to post photos of the wiper boards behind the reels.
I'm curious about the amount of wiring in that machine compared to a 1088.

Amechanic · « **Reply #13 on:** July 03, 2019, 10:26:21 AM »

I have seen machines in a lot worst condition then yours. The rust and white metal corrosion and be cleaned up with a bottle of CLR and a tooth brush. To clean those beau plugs of that corrosion, I like to use WD40 sprayed on the plug, then you can use a scotch bright pad or a super fine wet/dry sand paper. A 500-600 grit sand paper will polish them. You can the take a folded piece of sand paper to clean the cabinets matching plugs. By doing this, it should help with some of your light issues. To stop future corrosion, spray the areas with something like WD40 to stop it from coming back. Wipe off any access after spraying.

ncrguy · « **Reply #14 on:** July 03, 2019, 10:35:02 AM »

Quote from: DavidLee on July 03, 2019, 09:02:15 AM

The deposit and accepted lights are partially controlled by the coin relay bottom left of the reel mechanism.
Best to clean all switches ( A B C ) on the left side of the reels, check for continuity and adjust if needed.
This may solve the light problem.

Would it be possible to post photos of the wiper boards behind the reels.
I'm curious about the amount of wiring in that machine compared to a 1088.

Here you go. when it pays it does pay what it should when the hopper works. it never pays when it shouldn't but sometimes the bell rings for no reason, the bell rings on wins but doesn't stop till you put a coin in.

ncrguy · « **Reply #15 on:** July 03, 2019, 10:41:50 AM »

Quote from: Amechanic on July 03, 2019, 10:26:21 AM

I have seen machines in a lot worst condition then yours. The rust and white metal corrosion and be cleaned up with a bottle of CLR and a tooth brush. To clean those beau plugs of that corrosion, I like to use WD40 sprayed on the plug, then you can use a scotch bright pad or a super fine wet/dry sand paper. A 500-600 grit sand paper will polish them. You can the take a folded piece of sand paper to clean the cabinets matching plugs. By doing this, it should help with some of your light issues. To stop future corrosion, spray the areas with something like WD40 to stop it from coming back. Wipe off any access after spraying.

Thank you, it would of never dawned on me to use CLR. I think them plugs are the source to a lot of my problems as things work and then don't work for no good reason with the hopper.

Amechanic · « **Reply #16 on:** July 03, 2019, 10:43:13 AM »

The bell issue and be from contacts being dirty or out of adjustment on the hoppers JP Relay. It could also be coming from another dirty or out of adjustment set of contacts. Your best bet is to do a whole machine serving. This includes cleaning contacts and beau plugs. You can find contact cleaners at a Electronics store or at some Automotive parts stores.

Amechanic · « **Reply #17 on:** July 03, 2019, 10:46:39 AM »

I like using CLR. You can buy it any where and itâ€™s safe. Still use rubber gloves because exposed exposure will cause skin irritation.

DavidLee · « **Reply #18 on:** July 03, 2019, 11:33:12 AM »

Thanks for the photos.

The cam armature plate appears to be BENT on the RIGHT SIDE. This part needs to move freely when the red cam turns,

The payout step up unit controls the pays.
Red spiral cam needs to spin back freely.
Manually advance the cam counter clock wise. Manually activate the cam release linkage.
It should spin back fairly fast.
Blue green switch also should move up and down freely.

Amechanic · « **Reply #19 on:** July 03, 2019, 11:41:32 AM »

Quote from: DavidLee on July 03, 2019, 11:33:12 AM

Thanks for the photos.

The cam armature plate appears to be BENT on the RIGHT SIDE. This part needs to move freely when the red cam turns,

The payout step up unit controls the pays.
Red spiral cam needs to spin back freely.
Manually advance the cam counter clock wise. Manually activate the cam release linkage.
It should spin back fairly fast.
Blue green switch also should move up and down freely.

Nice catch David. I didnâ€™t notice that.

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Author Topic: Model Number? (Read 1605 times)