S plus slant top weird boot up

[newkid3]

I picked up what I think is an S Plus Double Diamond slant top machine today. The guy I got it from knows nothing about it. It and 2 upright IGT S2000 machines were given to him by a guy that owed him a little money. So I got all three of them from him at a good deal. So when I plug the slant top machine in the power switch is already on. When I plug it in the lights come on. Then the bill validator cycles and then shortly after that the reels spin and stop from right to left. Then some of the button lights come on and there are numbers in some of the displays. The thing is when you hit any of the buttons the numbers in the displays change. At one time by randomly pushing the buttons I got all of the displays to show 8's. It is like it boots up in accounting or something. I have messed with some S and S Plus upright machines years ago but not much. So I am not sure what these slant tops are suppose to do. Anyone know what is going on here? I have not even messed with the two upright S2000 yet. Thanks

[knagl]

Based on your description, it does sound like it is entering a statistics or self test menu after booting. Is the jackpot reset keyswitch (under the armrest) activated by chance, or is the white self test button inside the machine stuck in or shorting? Can you post a video of what you're seeing when you power it on (take the video, upload it to YouTube, then paste the YouTube link here)?

While there are some physical differences, slant top S+ machines operate pretty much identically to upright S+ machines.

[newkid3]

Ok I went out there and took this video of it booting up. I did notice after booting it up a couple of times that the slant/ reel door was not closed good. So i turned the surge protector off and back on and held the door down good while it booted. That time it seemed to do everything the same except at the end the only number was in the coins played window and it was 0. It would not accept quarters or Bill's. The Comparitor does have a sample quarter in it. The light under insert coin or what ever it says was lite up. So I dont know if it is booting up good and just wont accept quarters and Bill's for some reason or if its not booting up and that is why it wont accept anything. Does this machine have the little button by the Comparitor that I can push and put credits on it like a S2000 has? I dont know if the slant/reel door is just not locked or if something is missing on the latch mechanism there. I will check that stuff and the machine out some more in the morning.  Here is the link to the video. Hope it works. Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

When you're hitting those buttons in the video clip, we can see that you are in the Self Test Pages.
Go ahead and download the S-PLus Diagnostic Flip Cards, from there, you'll see what those numbers represent...>>>

https://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=18866.0

The only way you can enter those pages is by pressing the little white Test momentary button.
BTW Where is that Test button on your slant machine?
I've never owned one so I don't really know where it's located.

[newkid3]

Thanks for the link. Ok I went back out there and made sure the slant door was down good. I turned the power on and it seems to boot up every time now with out being in test mode. The first and second pic shows what it is like after that. The bottom candle light is on. Also the cash out button is lite up. It shows 0 credits. I can push the little button under the coin Comparitor and it adds credits. Then I can hit the spin button and it spins like it should with sound and all. So I guess the MPU is booting but It just wont take quarters or Bill's.I dont know why the cash out button would be lite with no credits on it and the bottom candle light be lite. if you look in one of the pics you can see a copy of the diagnostic flip cards that was already in the machine. Is it possible the last person that messed with it had it in test mode and then just unplugged it? Then when I would turn power on with slant door not fully closed it just booted back up into test mode? There is a pic showing where the white test switch is. If you look at the one pic I think I am missing a piece on the top bracket for the door latch. I think it would be a round piece of some kind that would push down on bottom part of latch to close it and hold it in place. Anyone know what this piece should look like?    Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

"I dont know why the cash out button would be lite with no credits on it and the bottom candle light be lite."
The Cash Out button lamp is on because the machine is set for all wins to go to the credit display, instead of coming out of the hopper and into the coin tray for every win.
If you press it once, the lamp will go out, and your wins will come out of the hopper.
The bottom half of the candle stays lit until the completion of one game

"Then when I would turn power on with slant door not fully closed it just booted back up into test mode?"
No...upon powering up a machine, it goes straight to "ready" mode - if eveything is ok, and the door is in a closed-state.

"There is a pic showing where the white test switch is."
Ok...thanks...I'll look for it.

[newkid3]

Well I think I messed up. I had read where people had put a wedge in the comparitor to test it to see if it gives you the 21 error then you can clear the error. Well I got the 21 coin in error code but I can not get it to clear. I messed around with it trying everything. Well now that error has changed to error 42 reel 2 tilt. I dont know how or why it would do that since the reels never spun or tried to spin since I got the original 21 error code. So now when it boots up it has 42 in the winner paid window. I have read where opening and closing the main door should clear the errors but it does not. So I dont know if the door otics are working or not. I guess I will have to see if I can get into the self test mode to see if the door optics work. I finally got the front door off and got the  MPU board out so I can check it out good. The battery is at 3.59 volts. I found the metal tube that goes to the top latch bracket in the bottom of the cabinet. I just need to find out what bolt or shoulder bolt is suppose to be used there. I guess if it comes down to it I can do the door optics bypass. Any other suggestions? Thanks

[newkid3]

Also let me ask this. If the door optics are not working that would keep the coin Comparitor from working correct? But with the door open you could still put test credits on the machine by pushing the white button by the coin optics and hit spin like I did earlier. So basically the test credits and hitting spin will work with the door open is this correct?  Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

Right....the CC will not work while the door is open.....that's why you never see the LED lit up on the comparitor.
You do not need any door optics to use the Service Credit button on the coin-in optics board...in fact, it ONLY works if the door is in an open-state.

You could run the purple wire from the door emitter to the red wire on the cabinet reciever?
That would fool the MPU into thinking the door is in a closed-state.

That metal tube part you found, is what the door latches to, to hold down closed.
I'm surprised that's off - that's held with a bolt and nut.
Is it just the bolt missing or is it busted off?
Maybe the latching mechanism wasn't working right, and the previous owner removed it?
They must of had a hard time aligning the door optics to "see" each other....lol

[newkid3]

Stayouttadabunker, are you saying all I have to do is unplug both door sensors and run a jumper wire from the purple wire from the door emitter to the red wire on the cabinet reciever to fool the MPU into thinking the door is closed. I thought I read on the S plus you had to connect all four wires. Which ever way of course I would only do this for testing. If it proves the door sensors are not working I would do something permanently to take care of the problem. I almost think on this slant top a permanent bypass if I could figure out how to do it would be the best solution. Just from the way it looks it seems it would be a lot harder to try to keep them aligned than it is on an upright machine. I just dont know if there will be a way to mount a cherry switch ect in this slant top or not.
I had noticed that the metal tube was missing on the door side of the door latch. I have looked at the cabinet side of the door latch and it seems to work like it should. If I push down on the metal plate like that tube would hit the latch pops right over. If I pull back up on the latch it slides back over like it would if you unlocked it and pulled up on the door. I also tested it again and then locked it and it would not pop back over until I unlocked it. I wonder if the door optics were not working and they took that metal tube off thinking they could get more adjustment on the door to maybe make the sensors align. I am like you I can not see why it would be off there. Do you know was that tube held on with a shoulder bolt that will fit in it and then have a little smaller threads that will go through the hole in the bracket and then a lock washer and nut on it? I would think just a bolt the size of the hole in the bracket would let the metal tube move around to much and probably finally mess the tube up.
As far as the metal tube it is just the bolt and nut missing. You can see in the pic that the hole in the bracket is still good and solid. I have not looked real good in the cabinet yet so I could still find the bolt and nut in there somewhere. I dont know why the metal tube would be in there and the bolt not be unless the bolt broke and they threw it away and just left the tube in the bottom. I think if I get this thing working 100% I am going to give it to my sister for there playroom. I already have a VLC machine I am going to give her once I am able to get the board back. Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

Yes...you just need those two wires from their 2-pin hanesses...ignore the green wires, and the door optics will be jumped.
It's so easy to do, assuming the wire colors in a slant cabinet, is the same as in an upright cabinet.
My old bypass drawing of using four wires was outdated a long time ago.

You know....they could be checked to see if they work, by performing the door tests using the Diagnostics Flip Cards.

As for that roller latch pin, I'm pretty sure it's like the ones on an upright cabinet as far as the way it works.
I'm not anywhere near an S+ machine right now...you'd have to look for yourself to see how it should be mounted.

[newkid3]

Ok I went out there to try to fool the MPU to thinking the door is closed. Well my wires are different colors than you stated.

Door side
Wires going back to MPU are green and the other wire is red with a white tracer.
The optic wires on this one are red and black

Cabinet side
Wires going back to MPU are orange and red with a blue tracer.
The optic wires on this ond are red and white.
I want to make sure I hook the right two wires together and not blow something up on the board. 
Are the wires different colors in the slant tops maybe?  Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

Yeah...I guess they're different colors....dont know why they changed the colors.
No problem.
Just jump the door emitter's red wire on the 2-pin harness that goes back to the MPU to the cabinet reciever's red wire on that 2-pin harness that goes back to the MPU....red to red.
All we're using is a single logic wire from each harness.

Ignore the green and orange wires on the harnesses...those are the ground wires to power up the emitter and reciever optics - we're not using them anymore, because one or both of them is/are no good.
Watch the [Coins Played] window on the display as you hook them up....if done right, the number will go out momentarily.
If you do it wrong, that number will stay on.
And don't worry about burning anything out because someone already blew up one of the optics...lol
I hooked them up backwards a million times when I was first trying to figure this out. 

[newkid3]

Ok I will do that. I have no numbers in the coins played window because I have the error code showing in the winner paid window. I am sure it will do the same thing go out momentarily then back on. Actually I hope it goes out and stays out and the coins played 0 shows up. That would mean it cleared the error. Do the errors stack on this S Plus like they do on a S2000? Then you have to open and close the door to clear each one. Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

No, the errors don't "stack up" like on an S2k.
Just watch the Coins Played window as you touch the wires together.
Maybe make a video and show the world what you've done! lol

[newkid3]

Another thing is there any other doors on this S Plus that has a switch that I need to make sure are spliced together. Like cash can door, door below arm rest, bottom door and backglass door ect?

[Stayouttadabunker]

The cash-box door switch might need to be connected together...if there's one?
I've never owned a heavy boat anchor like a slant machine... 

You've just answered your own question really....dig around and see what's in there.
Check the NLG File System and see if there's a wiring diagram for an S+ slant machine?

I'm surprise you haven't checked the optics to see if they work or not?...>>>

View the door emitter optic with thru a cellphone camera lens.
It should be emitting a blue-ish, flickering light if working.
You can also use Output Door Optic Test [24] from the Diagnostic Flip cards too.
I think this one just powers up the door emitter?
Not sure what it would do for the cabinet reciever...lol
It's been awhile since I've played with the Flip Cards.

The cabinet receiver optic can checked by shining a flashlight on the receiver optic while utilizing the [13-1] optics Test in the Diagnostic Flip cards.
The flashlight will make the receiver optic alternate between a [13_1] and [13_0] on the display.
If not, it's dead.
Another way is to pull off the 2-pin harness, stick a multimeter on its' pins set to ohms, and shine a flashlight on it, a good reciever optic will see the ohms change.

[newkid3]

Yeah they are a big heavy thing. You have to have extra room to have one that's for sure. I picked them up a couple of days ago. I got the slant top for free is the only reason I even got it. Heck I really bought the two S2000 and he gave me a price I could not pass up for the two S2000 if I took the slant top out of his way. None of them worked. I already have the S2000 Triple Double Penny Gras working 100%. It only needed a battery. Thank goodness the green battery was removed from both of the S2000 boards.

[newkid3]

Ok I finally got back to checking out this slant machine some more. I did as you said and went into test mode and checked the door optics. I had to mess around with the door a lot up and down on both sides to finally get the 13 0 to start switching back and forth from 13 0 to 13 1. I then got out of test mode and the machine reset and came up with 184 credits. I pushed play 1 credit and then hit spin. It worked as it should. I played like 3 rounds then the door moved enough for the optics to not be aligned anymore. The bottom candle light started blinking. I tried to reboot it so I could go back into test mode to get the optics aligned again. I tried rebooting it 3 times but everytime I pushed the test switch it would not go into test mode. Do you know what would keep me from being able to get in test mode. When I had the door optics aligned the game played good but I was not able to test anything else before the  optics lost each other. Now I can't get back in test mode to get the optics aligned again. I need to be able to do that to try and mess around with getting them aligned good and dependable. I tried the jumper wire before I did the optic test but it did not seem to do anything. Maybe I did not keep the jumper wire hooked up long enough. Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

Alignment of the emitter and receiver optics is critical for this machine to work.
That door latch piece you're missing is causing the misalignment problems.
Plus, when you get frustrated, you start pushing buttons and turning keys not really know what you're seeing on the displays.
The best thing you did was determine that the optics do indeed work and were actually playing the game!!
You'll notice that the Coins Played window will IMMEDIATELY go to a zero when the bypass is removed or door is opened.

Now, I will suggest that until you find the door latch part, you need to learn how to bypass the optics so you can enjoy the game.
Take two clear photos of the optics.
I need to see the wire colors they used on the 2-pin harnesses the optics are plugged into.
I also want to see what pins they're using inside the 2-pin housings.
From these pictures, I will be able to make you a short harness that can plug right in there so you can bypass the optics.
or show you how to make one? Whatever works.

okay, the other thing....the little white Test button.
You can't get into test mode if the optics are bypassed....you need to have the door in an "open-state".
Could you show me where that little white button is at so I know that you're talking about the right button?...people get mixed up with the Service Credit button, and the Test button....Thank you.
Start snapping some pictures.