S plus slant top weird boot up

[newkid3]

I forgot to mention that I did get the door latch all back together like it should be. (See pic)  It does latch and unlatch like it should. The problem is the door is really out of alignment. I have to pull up on the right hand side of the door and push down on the left side to get the left side to go down. If I dont do that the left side of the door will just hit and not push down in the cabinet. I think the door being messed up is the problem with the optics alignment. The coins played did go to 0 and the bottom candle light started blinking as soon as the optics quit seeing each other. I think if I can figure out a way to do a permanent door optics bypass with a cherry switch on this slant top I would be way better off. I can see where it would be a lot harder to get the optics on these slant tops aligned properly and dependable than it is on the upright cabinets. Here are pics of both door and cabinet optic wires and also both Male and female pins of the connectors.
I think the voltage side of both optics is the red wire going to the optics. If this is true the two wires I need to use to bypass would be on the connector on the door going to the MPU would be red. The connector on cabinet going to MPU would be the red with blue tracer. If this is true that is why when I jumped red to red it did not do anything. Does this seem correct to you?
As far as the test button. It is the button I pressed the first time to get into test mode. I have included a pic of it. I have never had the door optics bypassed yet so the door is definitely in the open state. I wonder if it was not completely done with the last play I did when the optics lost each other. Maybe it is waiting for the door to be closed to finish that spin/play and will not let me go into test mode until that spin/play is completed.

Now as far as a cherry switch in this slant top cabinet for a optics bypass. The cabinet actually has a place for a cherry switch but does not have one in it. (See pic) I dont know if they had planned on putting a service light in the cabinet like the upright cabinets have and then decided against it. I could put a cherry switch in that spot and use it as a bypass switch.  I would need to figure out a way to put something on the door the right depth down so it would hit and close the switch.  I will have to put pic of cherry switch spot in another post. Thanks

[newkid3]

Here is pic of cherry switch area.

[newkid3]

Here is a pic of the self test button I am using to try to get in test mode.

[Stayouttadabunker]

okay perfect.
The Self-Test button is correct.
I like you want use that rectangular bracket for a cherry switch instead of messing around with mis-aligned door optics.

You need to use one wire from each 2-pin harness - the smaller 2-pin connectors that go INSIDE the larger connectors that go to the optics.
One of these 2-pin harnesses might have a doubled up green ground wires?
Basically, you need  to jump a pin on the pointy side, between a pin on the flat side of the other harness - to make this work.

You took pictures of the pins inside their housings but...haha...I need to see the colors of the wires coming out the back too.
That way know which wires go in which hole.
You can see in this photo that the green wire on the 2-pin door emitter harness goes into the back of the pointy side of the housing while the purple with black stripe wire is in the flat side of the housing....like in this picture...>>>

[newkid3]

Ok that was not easy to get the door one in a position to be able to take a pic and see the end of the connector and the wires. There is no room there at all the way things are set up in this slant top machine. You can tell by looking at my thumb cut by trying to get the pic.

Door connector going back to MPU
Pointy side - Green
Flat side.     -  Red

Cabinet connector going back to MPU
Pointy side - Red with Blue tracer
Flat side.     - Orange

[Stayouttadabunker]

okay awesome!
Flat side Red on door to one open tab of cherry switch.
Pointy side Red w/blue stripe on cabinet going to other open tab of cherry switch (skip middle tab), and you'll have bypassed the optics when the plunger is either depressed in, or pulled out.
I've had bypassed door optics on my S+ Bench Test machine for almost 20 years now.

[newkid3]

So until I get the cherry switch all setup I can just run a temporary jumper wire between those two points to jumper the optics to do more testing and play some. Is this correct?  Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

Yes!  and you're welcome!

[newkid3]

I need to find a place that sales the cherry switches like came in the upright cabinets. So the switch can be pulled out also to simulate the door being shut. Do you know where I could possibly find them? Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

I'm sure Jim of Midwest slots will have one.
His phone number's on the homepage....or ebay?...>>>

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182241468451?hash=item2a6e702023:g:Y7AAAOSw6n5Xrp3h&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4BS78ouyfYKqaswQ4UeiybkyXB%2B%2BabFhVOKojDg4QuKlaTPXNbwdMULDlGLv9%2FHzenNwppD%2FQx0h14cmS8NHY1AAcc7MwVTUMejftmXWHTtBKzc6l1nabcZkdul3%2FkklMBJ6xmGBu5A3aQaJRP6LoMJSO11JfPJMW4QkZ5vZvv7kE8KFe%2BbdZbauTc7LjqZmuc2oWSkPQAVFMIfjUG34w2QjbnTdxqeDU9EEXErzJikZURnY1ZeoVRntJEKwVhpgtvmztpS4EoVBR7hLc4%2FfOGxftYGqY6OJh0u5OhF9Xjpg%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR76y292QYw

[newkid3]

Thanks for the link. I did not know if those switches have the function of being able to pull the switch out also with the door open like the factory ones do to make the connection also. I do appreciate the help

[newkid3]

Ok I got it temporarily bypassed. The game plays good. It accept quarters. It accepts $1 Bill's. It would not take a new $5 bill. That's the only two Bill's I tried in it. It has a DBV-200-SS ID 022/023 USA. I dont know if the validator can be updated at all or not. I will have to do some research on it. I did notice a hum out of the speaker at all times so I don't know what that is. Now I need to get me a Cherry switch so I can figure out my permanent bypass. I did notice the bill validator door has a Cherry switch in there. Does that switch have to be there or could I take it out and just connect those wires together permanently?  Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

Good job.
Go ahead and use it for your door optic bypass....it's probably not used for anything.

The BV is a whole different story.
Have to pull it out, look undeneath it to see if there's a chip in a socket or an embedded one on the circuit board.
Can mail it out to be flashed or upated.
I think Jim of Midwest does it.
His number's on the homepage of NLG....tell him I sent ya! lol
There's a million topics on that thing....read about it.

[newkid3]

As far as the bill validator door on the slant top machines. It uses a big Cherry switch like the upright cabinets use for the main door for the sevice light. I am pretty sure the switch either has to be there or the wires from that switch has to be tied together. I just did not know if the
S Plus has to see that validator door open for some reason on the slant tops or if it is ok to just pull that Cherry switch out and tie the two wires together with a wire nut or something. I am thinking the switch is just there for a security reason. To make sure in the casino that door has to be closed for the machine to operate. Thanks

[Stayouttadabunker]

Leave that alone, before you burn out something and have more problems.
Go buy a cherry switch.

[newkid3]

I have a brand new Cherry switch in a none working arcade game I have not been able to get to yet. I will use the Cherry switch out of it and then buy me a couple so I will have an extra. Actually I am going to figure out how far it is from the switch to the bottom of the door when it is fully shut  first. I might be better off going with a cherry switch with a longer plunger like in the pic.

[Stayouttadabunker]

okay...this Cherry switch pictured with the 3 tabs.
I think the NC (Normally Closed) tab is broken off of it, but that's okay, because you'd only need the two outside tabs.
One is the NO (Normally Open) tab while the other is called the COM (Common) tab.

[newkid3]

I will use a standard Cherry switch like is in the upright cabinets if I can get it to work. The only reason I put the pic of this kind up is because of the extra length of the plunger. Once I get the jumper wires from you I will figure out what I have to do to get the Cherry switch to work consistently. The part I am talking about working consistently is the slant top door pushing the plunger down as far as it should when the door is latched and locked and pulled back up the little it will move back up. So that the bypass works every time you close the door. No way to know for sure until I actually get the Cherry switch in there and hooked up and start messing with it.  Hopefully you can find an extra Cherry switch laying around.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Yes...I did find one...harness is finished too...mailing it out tomorrow morning!
Wow! Did you see how much they're charging for them online? 
Next time buy your own!