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Author Topic: Bally's 831-D  (Read 6345 times)

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Offline Terrys

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Bally's 831-D
« on: June 26, 2015, 10:06:26 PM »
Desperatly seeking schematics for 831-D. This machine is giving me heartburn. Does anyone know where I can get my hands on one?  Thanks!

Offline Jon

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2015, 04:11:02 PM »
The part # for that schematic
w-1046-600
But I do not have one
if you post the problem you're having with it we might be able to talk you through it there are very knowledgeable people on here

Offline OldReno

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2015, 11:48:13 AM »
The wiring on most Ballys is very very very similar.
What is it you need done??
The real picture of the Face on Mars.

Offline clk71

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2015, 10:47:30 AM »
I can certainly take pictures of the wiring on the 831 I am working on right now if that helps.

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2015, 12:27:20 PM »
Hay clk71 how is that 831 doing of yours

Offline clk71

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2015, 12:44:55 PM »
It is at a standstill, so close to the finish line...


I need lighting parts for the topper lamp, Amechanic said he has them


The handle is not releasing without a lot of wiggling at the bottom of the pull. Pulled my tube and piston off last night and they look good (surprisingly), but I have the brake cylinder rubber parts I ordered to modify and replace it anyway


It is giving out random pays on certain non-paying combinations. I haven't figured out why. Amechanic on my topic thread said this is why I need to have a set of beau plugs to make extensions




Ugh. This machine is going to look great when it is done, though!

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2015, 12:59:45 PM »
page 84 part 37 is a Powel that releases the handle to go back up put it together pull your level down if it is stuck down reaching with a long screwdriver and a flashlight and push down on port number 37 if the handle releases its just ask her out of adjustment on that pallet if not look and make sure part number 22 on page 84 is well lubricated I have had them Jim up many times

Offline clk71

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2015, 01:14:12 PM »
Does that big cover plate, part #33 on page 84, just unscrew right off?


I considered taking that cover off last night to check things out but was worried I might be opening up something I couldn't put back together.

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #8 on: July 02, 2015, 01:56:30 PM »
that would be opening the can of whoop a! $#

Offline Terrys

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2015, 03:12:08 PM »
Thanks for the help all!!  My problem appears to be with the reel payout.  The only schematics I have is the ZZ(L?). So I was looking for a wiring diagram for the reel wiper boards. 




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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #10 on: July 02, 2015, 09:15:05 PM »
clk71, No, you don't want to take the bearing stop plate (p. 84) off unless you have removed the whole handle box from the cabinet.
Don't even think about it in your worst nightmare.
 Terry, unless you see new soldering on your reel wiper boards, there is little chance they are at fault.
You can make marks on the boards with a sharpie, and for each index position, put a mark and note of the symbol there.
Then you can verify by that that the reel strips and the reel discs are correct or not.
Usually the deepest cuts are the highest pays, however, if you are working on a 5 line criss cross, then all bets are off, and you will find much madness.
You can test the pay circuitry through the reels by putting your VOM or continuity tester onto the 90 wires on the 3rd reel and working your way through to the pay wires leaving the 1st reel going to hopper payboard.  Of course the pays must be on correct line.
The real picture of the Face on Mars.

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Re: Bally's 831-D
« Reply #11 on: July 02, 2015, 09:24:32 PM »
Great advice OldReno. I can do this. Owe ya, thanks!!

 

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