Author Topic: Bally 5500 - no LED display (Read 11319 times)

Midcoastsurf · « **on:** September 05, 2015, 01:23:21 PM »

My 5500 slot display only comes up sometimes with this error message. It has 256 and 512 chips. Is this a jumper issue? The following jumpers are missing: 1, 8, 11

Thanks

Badbaud · « **Reply #1 on:** September 06, 2015, 12:08:51 AM »

Try pulling out the I/O board and turn power on to see if you can clear the RAM.

Is your battery voltage low?

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #2 on:** September 06, 2015, 09:16:43 AM »

Quote from: Badbaud on September 06, 2015, 12:08:51 AM

Try pulling out the I/O board and turn power on to see if you can clear the RAM.

Is your battery voltage low?

Which board is the I/O board? (is there another name for this board? I couldn't find it in the manual)

I just installed a remote AA battery holder w/ blocking diode in the 4th position. Voltage measures 4.34 vDC at the solder points on the board.

Thanks!

Badbaud · « **Reply #3 on:** September 06, 2015, 11:40:49 AM »

Woops, 5500 not 5000, my bad.

If you replace the battery on a 5500 you have to clear it.

On the main board near the front right edge of the tray you will find a jumper on one pin.

Put that jumper across both pins then plug the board in and turn the machine on while holding in the Test and Pseudo Coin buttons.

You should see a CHC then a CLC, If you see a CHP then a CLP the RAM is only partially cleared.

Press reset and release then immediately hold in the Test and Pseudo buttons again until you see a CHC then CLC.

Turn power off and move the jumper back on one pin.

Leave the door open and let the reels do their spin then bump dance and you should end up with a 50 code on the display.

Close the door and it should be ready to play.

If still no display try re-seating all connectors related to the display.

Let me know what happens.

That will clear your board and hopefully fix your no display problem

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #4 on:** September 06, 2015, 07:02:36 PM »

I put the jumper across the SRAM clear JW 10 and followed your instructions. I held in the test and psuedo buttons for about 30 seconds. The LED display screen remained blank. Does it usually take longer than this?

I also re-seated the connectors on the display board and where the harness plugs into the backplane board.

Badbaud · « **Reply #5 on:** September 06, 2015, 08:51:10 PM »

No, 30 seconds is about it.

When you power the machine off then back on does the display flicker at all?

Your power supply may be going bad.

Attached are the test points on the power supply.

Make sure all voltages are there, if not you may need to replace the small power supply module inside the box.

I had posted a sticky in the Bally 5500 section on where to get the replacement module.

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #6 on:** September 06, 2015, 09:27:34 PM »

Thanks for all of the help! The jumpers are made on the far right connector, right? I'll take the readings and report back.

Thanks

Badbaud · « **Reply #7 on:** September 06, 2015, 11:19:03 PM »

If you leave the power supply connected and turn the machine on then take your readings you will get a truer reading of how the power supply is operating under full load.

With the jumper option you would have to calculate a resistor load bank that connected to each of the DC voltages and provided that same full load condition to get true readings.

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #8 on:** September 07, 2015, 01:48:40 PM »

With the far left plug dis-connected from the power supply and the game turned on, here are the measurements. The coin hopper was pulled out and the MPU board was also pulled. Keep in mind the coin comparitor is missing, but I don't believe that should affect readings at the power supply. I highlighted the ones in red which are clearly out of range. Looks like a new Mean Well PT-65B power supply is in order?

Badbaud · « **Reply #9 on:** September 07, 2015, 04:50:57 PM »

Plug the MPU board back in, re-connect the left plug - then turn the machine on and take your readings.

Poke your test lead into the back of the wire exit on the left plug pins until your meter lead contacts the pin inside.

I didn't see any +5VDC reading in your list - that is the important one and should read close to 5.16VDC.

The AC readings come straight from the power transformer and don't go through the power supply.

The 24VDC does not come from the Meanwell power supply either - it is generated using a full wave bridge and a large capacitor with AC into the bridge.

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #10 on:** September 07, 2015, 08:40:39 PM »

OK, MPU board plugged back in and the far left connector plugged back into the power supply. With the machine on and measuring the pins through the back of the connector, here are the results...

Badbaud · « **Reply #11 on:** September 07, 2015, 09:15:11 PM »

Pin 8 or 9 to ground should be +5VDC, you are reading only AC voltage there?

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #12 on:** September 12, 2015, 09:13:37 AM »

My bad, pins 8 and 9 measure 5.14vDC. I also made sure the top switch for the dollar bill door is closed...not sure if that matters.

Badbaud · « **Reply #13 on:** September 12, 2015, 01:35:46 PM »

Still no display?

If your power supply reads good (5.14VDC is good) and you have cleared it and seen the reels bump then stop then the problem lies with your display board.

Have you unplugged and plugged in all connectors on the display boards a couple dozen times to see if it was dirty connectors?

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #14 on:** September 12, 2015, 01:38:48 PM »

The reels haven't spun yet. I've tried the connectors, but to no avail. I should be able to clear without the chip, right? The machine doesn't respond to the pseudo/test clear procedure.

Badbaud · « **Reply #15 on:** September 12, 2015, 01:47:42 PM »

Ok, so if your battery is good then you may want to try removing the two RAM chips, next to the rightmost chips with labels on them, and swapping the RAM chips with each other and try clearing again.

Watch the notch when removing and inserting chips in sockets, they should all face the same way.

Also be careful and don't bend any pins.

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #16 on:** September 12, 2015, 02:58:37 PM »

Check out the burn and stress marks on the top pins. Swapping the two chips only caused the bill validator to run for a few seconds.

Badbaud · « **Reply #17 on:** September 12, 2015, 06:11:31 PM »

You can clean the pins with a pink pencil eraser.

Once the RAM chips are back in take a DC voltage reading, with board power off, on each RAM chip.

With the notch of the chip facing away from you put your negative lead on the lower left pin and your positive lead on the farthest upper right pin.

Let me know what voltage reading you get on each RAM chip.

Midcoastsurf · « **Reply #18 on:** September 12, 2015, 07:10:55 PM »

I get 4.11vDC on both chips.

Badbaud · « **Reply #19 on:** September 12, 2015, 08:09:04 PM »

That is a little high for the battery voltage, what kind of battery(s) do you have to power the RAM?

With the board powered up you should read the 5 VDC from the power supply across the chips, the battery voltage to the chips is turned off when board power is on saving the battery from being loaded and 5VDC from the power supply controls the chips.

With power off the RAM voltage should read around 3.6VDC.

The battery should be a 3.6V Lithium.

Next step is to remove every socketed chip on the board, clean it's legs with a pink eraser and plug them back in.

Then clear the board again and see if it comes up.

The board may have been used in a humid environment causing the IC pins to corrode and not give a good contact with it's socket.

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Author Topic: Bally 5500 - no LED display (Read 11319 times)