Author Topic: Bally E-2099-17 Lights on but nobodies home (Read 14936 times)

dhellis · « **Reply #20 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:03:21 AM »

Not sure what you are asking on the ou? unless you meant "What is the output"

Pin 11 of U5 is the output that drives the relay. The reset switch is attached to pin 12
as well as Q3, Pin 13 is attached to U26 pin 12 as well as R6 and J8 pin 15

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #21 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:52:07 AM »

Sorry about that my laptop at home has issues and the message was cut off.

I was asking if the output of J3 to the LCD was BCD and if you knew what the state of the pins are so I could look at the states on my bench?

That way I dont hacve to put it back in my machine to test for the error codes

Thanks Again,

Jason

dhellis · « **Reply #22 on:** September 24, 2015, 11:05:00 AM »

The state would be difficult to determine, easier just to pull the display board and ribbon cable and move that
to the bench.

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #23 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:24:06 PM »

It's Alive!!! errr almost... I fixed the relay...

It boots up, see the picture, it accepts coins now, and changes the top light to first coin when I inserted a quarter, and then it changed to 2nd coin when I inserted a second quarter, and the coin accepted light came on as well...

but the handle wont pull... any suggestions?

Im not sure if there are lights on the reel, seems kind of dark, so... maybe the reel mech isnt getting power which is the mechanism that allows the handle to pull?

Thank you,

Jason

dhellis · « **Reply #24 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:35:51 PM »

There is a solenoid behind the handle and a small lever that keeps the handle from being pulled.
Try lifting the lever and see if you can now pull the handle down.

This solenoid is controlled by Q18 (Triac) on the IO board

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:47:10 PM »

Yes I can manually pull it, so, guess what im doing tomorrow night haha

Thank you for that.

Looks like Im getting there, its nice to see part of the machine working... I think ive dumped a few dollars into the machine already just to see that part work.

I probed the Zero Cross the other night so i know that part is working...

Jason

Amechanic · « **Reply #26 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:52:13 PM »

I would run test 2 using the hopper board button. This will cycle the lights, and solenoids in the machines. (SEE MANUAL).. The other possible problems is that the air cylinder on the right side of the reels, (long white tube) is frozen, try pushing on the metal U shaped bracket going inside it to test.. There is a rubber seal inside it, that over time turns to a sticky, tar like mess.. Remove the cylinder, 4 screws and clean it out. I don't use a seal since they don't make a replacement. Someone here did find and make one work with a little mod, but a thin, very thin layer of grease works just great... Any type of solvent, even WD40 will help clean the air cylinder.

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #27 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:54:42 PM »

Thanks Amechanic, ill try that too

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #28 on:** September 25, 2015, 08:31:09 AM »

I checked the cylinder and its a little stiff, but its working.

I can't seem to get test two to initiate.

I press the test button twice, and I see when I press the button the LCD changes to 1, but not two, and the solenoid on the door for the coin plus some hidden ones I can't see, and a couple of lights toggle simultaneously but that's it.

I did not see the solenoid for the pull handle toggle when I tried the test...

I seem to remember that there is a configuration on the dip switch for the MPU board that is a maintenance mode?

Thanks,

Jason

dhellis · « **Reply #29 on:** September 25, 2015, 09:09:45 AM »

When entering the tests, there needs to be a slight pause between button pushes, about 1 second.
You see a 1 and when you see that push the test button to advance to test 2

SW1-8 is used for maintenance mode, it opens the connection between pin 12 of U26 to pin 13 of U5
that is unless jumper S14 is in place (next to the dip switch on the edge of the PCB board). With S14
installed SW1-8 has no effect. Normally SW1-8 would be turned off when troubleshooting the board

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #30 on:** September 25, 2015, 01:18:36 PM »

I put the dip switch in maintenance mode, all switches in the off position, and the same thing.

The display reads 50 000 , which is door open, I press the test switch and it reads 50 001, and same as before lights flash and some solenoids toggle, but it wont change to 2 or 3 etc...

Going to test the TRIAC now.

Jason

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #31 on:** September 25, 2015, 03:20:35 PM »

Looks like the IO board is good, I don't see any AC on the solenoid, and I can't really read what the schematic says... is it supposed to be 7.5VAC?

dhellis · « **Reply #32 on:** September 25, 2015, 03:27:26 PM »

The relay should be 50VAC

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #33 on:** September 25, 2015, 09:50:21 PM »

Ok I see 51VAC across the coil, and the solenoid and its not working.

Im also confused by this because when I trace the wiring harness to the IO board its going to Q13, which is M1 of the TRIAC, pin 7 of theJ1.

The coil resistance for the solenoid is 76 Ohms, so it doesn't appear to be bad, but I havent figured out where the other side runs to.

I know you said Q18, but according to the wiring diagrams in the manuals, the handle lockout is Q16, not Q18, and Q18 is the coin lockout...

So Q13? Do you know where the second Pin on the Molex connector is going to?

Thanks,

Jason

dhellis · « **Reply #34 on:** September 25, 2015, 10:18:49 PM »

Oops, you are right. When I looked at the schematic, I saw Q16, as I was writing I looked back and picked
up Q18. Sorry about that.

Q13 should go to the door buzzer (if you have one)

There are 2 wires attached to one side of the solenoid, one goes directly to J1 pin 10, the other wire
will go to a 8.2K ohm resistor to ground. In this case ground terminal K of the power transformer (E-122-151)
and should also be a gray wire.

Maybe this is a good time to also tell you the color codes used for the wiring. The first digit of the wiring code
is the primary color, the second digit is the color of the stripe, if a stripe is used.

1 = Red
2 = Blue
3 = Yellow
4 = Green
5 = White
6 = Brown
7 = Orange
8 = Black
9 = Gray
0 = No stripe (tracer)
J = Jumper

J1 would be the jumper header and then the pin number
An Orange wire would be labeled as 70, an Orange wire with a black stripe would be 78, you may find
number such as 78-1 this would still be an Orange wire with a black stripe that was used again.

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #35 on:** September 26, 2015, 09:46:27 AM »

Its working!!! I traced out the wiring harness and the last probelm is that the Handle Solenoid was plugged into the wrong connector, one I fixed that, Im in business!!! Thanks guys...

Now for the other thing, last night when I bypassed the solenoid and I WON on the line the hopper fuse blew. I've played a few times since I fixed it and havent won again, but at a dollar a fuse, i'd like to fix that too if thats a seperate issue.

Thanks again for your help!!

Jason

Amechanic · « **Reply #36 on:** September 26, 2015, 10:11:38 AM »

Pull the hopper out, and make sure it turns.. There is a brake lever on the motor, push that and grab the hoppers star and spin the hopper. It should spin, but have resistance because of the gear box. There are a couple small oiling hole on the hopper motor and sometime on the gear box

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #37 on:** September 26, 2015, 10:19:27 AM »

Thanks

I appreciate everything

Two other questions, one does anyone have a part number for a replacement battery for the RAM PCB?

Second is does anyone have a source for the relay on the MPU board? I'd like to put in the same part?

All in all I would like this to be as original as possible. Since it's for my dad, and Antique for an Antique

Jason

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #38 on:** September 26, 2015, 10:44:31 AM »

Ok it spins nice and smoothly, anything else particularly I should look for?

Otherwise I guess its time to diassemble the hopper and test the boards.

Thanks Jason

Amechanic · « **Reply #39 on:** September 26, 2015, 11:08:54 AM »

There are two diodes on the top of the hopper board, CR11 & CR12 if I remember correctly. The original ones were known to crack, I check those.. Next the triac Q3, mac 15-6 goes bad too and will blow fuses..

Here is an EBay link for the battery you want..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-BATTERY-ESERIES-NiCad-3-6V-/151051144687?hash=item232b598def

As for your relay, I'm going to leave that for dehellis, since he should have a source for that..

Gary

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Author Topic: Bally E-2099-17 Lights on but nobodies home (Read 14936 times)