Author Topic: Bally E-2099-17 Lights on but nobodies home (Read 14939 times)

Amechanic · « **Reply #40 on:** September 26, 2015, 11:14:15 AM »

I just happened to think, I don't know if you have the E1000, or E2000 hopper board.. I gave you the layout for the E2000.. If you have the E1000 then I would think the problem is with the Mac 15-6 triac.. The manual shows you both in the back pages..

Gary

dhellis · « **Reply #41 on:** September 26, 2015, 11:32:03 AM »

Those relays can be somewhat difficult to find but you can order one here

https://wellgainelectronics.com/reed-relays/35341-hamlin-he321a0400.html

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #42 on:** September 26, 2015, 11:45:50 AM »

Great I ordered both parts, thanks guys

I checked the TRIACS, and they are good,

CR1 looks good, anything else?

Yes Amechanic you are right its an E1000 series Hopper PCB

Amechanic · « **Reply #43 on:** September 26, 2015, 12:11:17 PM »

Did the hopper have the correct amp fuse? I think they are 8 amp, or are the 5 amp

.. Crap now I need to go check..

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #44 on:** September 26, 2015, 09:45:20 PM »

The fuse is supposed to be 5A, and its right, Ive gone through 5 trying to trigger and fire the motor.

I took the PCB out, checked the TRIACS and they are fine. I replaced them anyways, but still the same issue.

I'm only reading 6 Ohms across the two terminals of the motor, is that right?

Amechanic · « **Reply #45 on:** September 26, 2015, 10:29:33 PM »

Not sure what that should read, but you can test run the hopper motor by hooking it up to 110v. Just make sure that you have the hopper board removed and unplugged or you will see smoke!! YEA I DID IT ONCE!!

. I have an old extension cord with two alligator clips I use to test hopper motors.. I Hook it to the motor leads and plug it into a power strip with an on/off switch. Turn the strip on and it should run. Always test the hopper out of the machine with the hopper board removed.

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #46 on:** September 26, 2015, 10:41:26 PM »

This is just crazy, Motor spins fine, and I forgot to take the quarters out of the hopper so it spit them out on my bench

What am I missing?! I replaced both TRIACs, and this just seems silly, such a simple board and circuit.

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #47 on:** September 26, 2015, 11:20:07 PM »

Maybe typing this out will make it jump out.

To Spin the Motor Manually, I connected Live to one side, and Neutral to the other, works as I expected.

According to the Wiring Diagram, 1 side of the motor is connected to Pin 8 through the fuse, and the other is also connected to live but through pin 5. How can that be?

If you look at the schematic, pressing the Test Button will RLY2 will turn on Q2, and effectively short both terminals of the motor.

My point is where is the return, I have attached a picture of what i mean.

If you engage RLY1, you are just connecting L - L, through the fuse and the motor.

I dont see this switch on the side of the hopper in my wiring diagrams or schematics, does anyone know what this is for?

Thanks,

Jason

Amechanic · « **Reply #48 on:** September 26, 2015, 11:33:19 PM »

So its only blowing fuses when you hit a payout, or when the machine is powered on? Some of the earlier Ballys had a small board usually behind the hopper and right next to the beau plug for the hopper. It's a relay board and has a white molex plug attached to it. You could check your wires on the back of the hoppers female beau plug to make sure nothing grounding out.. Have you checked the Triac on the I/O that controls the hopper?

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #49 on:** September 27, 2015, 09:41:44 AM »

Yeah it only blows the fuse when It pays out.

I looked at the relay board this morning, its fine, guess next step is back to the IO board.

Jason

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #50 on:** September 27, 2015, 10:53:17 AM »

Back to the beginning,

Guess i'll walk away from it and come back... reassembled everything, this last time, and lights on, and nothing all over again...sigh...

Jason

ramegoom · « **Reply #51 on:** September 27, 2015, 11:15:14 AM »

Microswitch on the side of the hopper is the overfill switch. Once the hopper fills with coins, it will send a signal back to the system which will then divert the coins that go thru the comparitor around the hopper and down to the chute that fills the cabinet.

Unless you plan to fill the hopper to the top, I would suggest you remove that switch. Just more stuff you don't need.

Amechanic · « **Reply #52 on:** September 27, 2015, 01:11:35 PM »

Question.. In your very first post you mentioned two gray wires that were hooked together. Did you ever figure out what they were? I don't think you ever posted a picture of that. Were they in the cabinet or on the reels assembly.

Gary

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #53 on:** September 27, 2015, 02:46:34 PM »

According to the wiring Diagram, those two wires are for the Hinge Switch. How ever I'm not clear if that switch is responsible for the open door error code or not.

There is also another switch on the right side of the machine which is triggered by a stadard key locking mechanism. Does that need to be closed? or does the state of that switch not matter?

Thx,

Jason

Amechanic · « **Reply #54 on:** September 27, 2015, 05:35:20 PM »

You might be getting your door open error message because you jumpers the relay on the MPU. As for the key lock on the right side is used to clear any large jackpot that require a hand payment.

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #55 on:** September 27, 2015, 06:38:00 PM »

Ok were all good!!

Everything si working now and its paying out correctly!!!

I forgot to plug the relay board back in when I last assembled it... sigh...

Thank you guys for all of your help. I'll be donating to this website for al the great help

Jason

Amechanic · « **Reply #56 on:** September 27, 2015, 07:05:53 PM »

Glad to hear its fixed!!

it's been a fun.

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #57 on:** September 27, 2015, 10:03:39 PM »

I just want to say thank you one more time to the community for all the help, great bunch of people

It was nice that I brought this Machine home exactly one week ago today, and it's already up and running.

Out of all that I wanted to do a revised summary in case anyone else wants to learn from this past week.

Final Summary:

Symptom: Lights were on when I plugged in the machine, but it wouldn't take money, and aside from the sound of the high voltage starters, there was nothing but crickets.

Bad Components:

1. RLY 1 on the MPU board went bad, which controls the reset to the processor, which means the Main Processor Unit was not alive.

a. Quick Fix to test - Jumper the open contacts of the relay between U5 Pin 11, and U28 Pin 16.

2. The 3.6V Batt for the memory was leaking so I removed and ordered a new one. Yes the machine runs without the battery in case you were wondering.

Continued Testing.

1. Once the RLY was replaced the machine boot up and seemed ready to play.
2. The machine accepted coins and the Pull Handle mechanism wasn't working.
a. After tracing the wiring harneess to the IO board, and a few conversations with the community, I found that the
previous person that tried to repair the machine connected the Solenoid to the Handle release mechanism to the wrong connector.
b. The Solenoid for the handle release circuit goes to the IO Board, Q16, which is J1 Pin10.
3. I also removed the IO Board, The MPU Board, and the RAM Board from the Machine, and connected them one at a time to my Huntron Tracker 2000.
a. I quickly went through the boards looking for shorts, and didn't find anything out of the ordinary.
b. I removed all of the electrolytics, and measured them with my LCR Meter. I tested them with my Huntron first, but second test never hurts

c. After that I cleaned and reflowed the connectors, and especially the headers pins from the MPU to the RAM PCB.
d. I also removed and reseated all of the socketed ICs.
4. I reassembled everything and the machine seamed to be working fine.
a. Then I hit a payout on the reels and blew the hopper fuse.
b. This problem is still bugging me.
c. The usual suspect for the E1000 Series Hopper PCB are the TRIACS Q1, and Q2.
d. I removed them and tested them and they seemed fine, however I replaced them any ways.
e. I checked the rest of the board, its a small circuit and still I was blowing fuses when I hit a payout.
f. I tested the motor by applying 110 directly to the two terminals to see if it would spin, Please do not try this if you dont know what you are doing!
g. The motor was fine, and then I removed the relay board located directly behind the hopper.
h. I tested and cleaned the relay and hopper board, reassembled and it's alive!!!!

It took a week between gaining proficiency with this awesome electro-mechanical device, but with the help of the community, and some schematics, I was able to get this done quickly.

Thanks again everyone, I look forward to my next slot machine repair.

Anyone know if there is a similar model to this one that has as I would call it Vegas Sounds? Sounds when the reels spins and a cool payout noise. The noise for the current machine sounds like you are getting electrocuted

Jason

Amechanic · « **Reply #58 on:** September 27, 2015, 11:07:37 PM »

It sound like the sound board in your machine has a issue. They didn't have the greatest sounds when they worked, kind of like an old video Atari game system from the 80's. I have one that works and I'll try to get a short video of it tomorrow. If they don't work correct, they sound like a combination of finger nails on a black board, and a cat thats had its tail stepped on..

darwinasm86 · « **Reply #59 on:** September 28, 2015, 08:32:54 PM »

Were you able to take a video?

I wasn't sure this one has a sound board, unless it located in the upper part behind the glass?

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Author Topic: Bally E-2099-17 Lights on but nobodies home (Read 14939 times)