Author Topic: E2290-1 acting wierd (Read 8960 times)

mr-monoxide · « **on:** December 09, 2015, 02:48:50 PM »

Hello, I recently acquired a E2290-1 4 reel which had been working perfectly however for the last couple of days it's been doing something strange. What's happening is that when I turn the machine on everything powers up and it's ready for play. I coin up and pull the handle and the reels don't stop, they just keep spinning until they start to lose momentum and then the machine tilts and alternately flashes code 41 then 3. I then have to press the reset and test buttons together to get the machine to reset. It will continue to do this for a while then I'll coin up, pull the handle and the reel stops will engage quite late after spin begins. The machine tilts and alternately flashes a 71 then 3. It will again do this for a while then the reel stops will begin engaging normally after handle pull. It no longer tilts but afterwards the insert coin light does not come back on and if I have a winning reel combination the hopper does not pay out or respond. Again it will do this for a while until all of a sudden everything's fine. The machine will play normally as well as pay out correctly. At first I thought I had a weak reader on reel 1 given the 41 & 71 tilt codes so I switched the readers around thinking that if the reader was truly faulty the problem would follow to whatever reel I had that reader on and would give me a different tilt code but it did not. The machine still does the exact same thing showing the same tilt codes. I feel like something is getting ready to fail permanently and I want to find and correct this problem before the machine fails all together. So what could the problem be? What else can I check? Any help or advice offered will be greatly appreciated.

Paul · « **Reply #1 on:** December 09, 2015, 04:27:03 PM »

Sounds like the grease is getting thick and sticky till it warms up.
Inside your reel mechanism there is 2 black cross shafts. Can you spin those freely with your fingers? if not it needs more lubrication to get all the linkage working freely and then you reels will stop.

mr-monoxide · « **Reply #2 on:** December 09, 2015, 05:21:26 PM »

Thank you for the suggestion, I will certainly try that. But would it account for the insert coin light not coming back on and the hopper not paying out even when the reels stop normally?

Amechanic · « **Reply #3 on:** December 09, 2015, 09:20:44 PM »

You might want to check your power supply voltages, and the condition of the power supply plug.. Weak power supplys can cause many problems.. You can buy a new after market on Ebay for $59.00. They work great, I've used them.. Other thing is to check your kick & arms switches..

mr-monoxide · « **Reply #4 on:** December 10, 2015, 07:30:43 PM »

Thanks for the suggestions. I lubed the reel mech very well and everything spins freely including the cross shafts mentioned. I was good advice, the reels spin much faster now. I also checked my power supply voltages and all outputs are normal. The switches are all functional as well. Unfortunately the problem persists. What I've noticed is that if I power up the machine and wait about 2 hours before I play everything is fine and will remain that way for as long as I leave the power on. If I turn it off for just a few minutes I have to wait the 2 hours again before I can play. Could the relays cause this to happen?

Amechanic · « **Reply #5 on:** December 10, 2015, 10:45:58 PM »

Have you oiled the reels hubs? There is an oil hole in each hub to get oil into the needle bearing that the reel spin in.. One other thought is to pull the power supply and inspect the solder joint on the plug header. Those solder joints like to crack causing cold solder joint.. Your other place to look for bad solder joints are on the back if the MPU. Heat cycles cause bad connections on many of the socketed emproms and solder chips. Good thing to do is to take a pink ereaser and clear all the pins on the IO and MPU, power supply, even the reel readers. Many problems on these machines are just a connection gone bad.

I was working on a CEI Video Poker game to night. The owner said it keeps turning off & on.. I noticed that when the monitor went out, the Green LED light for DC power would dim. I removed the fuse for that circuit and cleaned the holder and removed and reconnected the plugs on the back plane. After doing that the machines now operating normal. So just saying check and clean your connections. You just might be surprised.

ramegoom · « **Reply #6 on:** December 11, 2015, 07:51:05 AM »

Amechanic is correct about those cold solder joints. Here's an example, as seen on the power supply:

Jon · « **Reply #7 on:** December 11, 2015, 10:30:09 AM »

those are some good pictures the top one and the bottom one most people would miss I don't know how the one in the center ever work

Jim · « **Reply #8 on:** December 11, 2015, 11:11:59 AM »

on the older Bally "E" series machines they used pressure type connectors on the power supply.the wire is inserted into the "V" type opening, they use a punch type tool to push the wire into the "V" which will cause the insulation to be pierced and the wire will now make a connection to the connector pin, over time these will be come loose due to the current pull of the power supply, these caused huge intermittent problems, monitor the power supply voltages, then start wiggling the wires on the bottom of the connector, I think they are red/black tracer and a few up from there are blue/ black tracer (from memory,not sure about the colors) if the voltages vary and drop off then you have to fix that connection. most people will solder the wire. the second problem you could be having: the reels are stopped by a solenoid, I have seen these become dirty and stiff, they should be disassembled and cleaned and lubed with graphite.

Hope this helps

Jim

ramegoom · « **Reply #9 on:** December 11, 2015, 01:27:30 PM »

Even when they changed to the crimped style terminals, same problem existed:

Amechanic · « **Reply #10 on:** December 11, 2015, 02:16:43 PM »

Yea I've seen them like that before. Then I've seen them remove the wire from the plug and solder it to the power supply.

ramegoom · « **Reply #11 on:** December 11, 2015, 03:03:09 PM »

Those Molex connectors are really low rent design. The contact area is minimal, and the spring tension within the terminal gets reduced every time you plug and unplug it. Terminals are too soft to maintain the spring tension for high current use.

You should see the Molex connectors in my pinball machines...every bit as bad, chronic problems with them.

mr-monoxide · « **Reply #12 on:** December 11, 2015, 05:07:32 PM »

Ok, I'll remove the power supply tomorrow and see if I see anything that looks like what's in the pictures posted (thanks for that by the way, pictures are always a big help). I'll report back with my findings..

mr-monoxide · « **Reply #13 on:** December 13, 2015, 03:12:14 PM »

Alright I've gone over everything and as far as I can tell all seems to be in order. Ive cleaned and oiled all moving parts on the reel mechanism and it is spinning freely. The stop solenoids are free and not sticking either. I've also reseated every connection I can find and I removed and inspected the power supply and associated connections looking for anything that looked like the pictures posted but I can't find anything suspicious looking, in fact everything looks so good you would almost think it was new. So now I'm trying to understand the tests that the machine performs. On test 1 the win meter displays 00001 and resets for play, test 2 runs through all the lights with no problem, test 3 activates all the relays and solenoids again with no problems. Test 3 confuses me, it displays 11- which flickers a bit as if the machine is checking stuff but I don't know what this test is supposed to be doing so I don't know if the 11- displayed is normal or not. Test 4 runs the hopper for a second and dispenses 10 coins. Test 5 displays 0.0.0.0. I don't know what this means either. Test 6 displays various numbers but thats it. I have a basic manual but it doesn't cover these tests very well, it tells me how to perform them but nothing about the meaning of the results. Anyone know if the results I'm getting are normal? Also I've read that the reel reader board could be faulty, anybody have one they'd like to sell? I'd like to replace it just to eliminate it as a potential source of the problem.

ramegoom · « **Reply #14 on:** December 13, 2015, 03:24:17 PM »

Download and print this document:

http://www.ramegoom.com/john/E2000/Maintaining%20your%20Bally%20Slot%20Machine.pdf

At the bottom of the doc, it spells out the codes, this should help.

Test 5 is the reel symbol position test, and if you have 0 0 0 0 this means the reel positions are not being seen by the MPU. Could be a blown fuse that powers up the reader lamps, or a bad Molex connection.

mr-monoxide · « **Reply #15 on:** December 13, 2015, 03:51:07 PM »

Thanks for the document. I'm sure it will be very useful. The reel reader problem seems intermittent. Sometimes the reels continue to spin and don't lock giving me the typical code 41 tilt. Other times the reels lock in late giving me a code 71 but sometimes they spin and lock in correctly and will pay out winning combinations normally. One thing that's seems unusual is that there are instances that the reels spin and lock in as they should but there will be a very long delay of several minutes before the hopper pays out or the insert coin light comes back on. It's that condition that has me eyeballing the reel control board. What do you think?

ramegoom · « **Reply #16 on:** December 13, 2015, 04:30:24 PM »

I think it's intermittent connectors.

If the reels sometimes work normally, other times don't, it's likely there is an intermittent or poor connection between the reel readers and the I/O board.

Check those long connectors that run along the top of the I/O board, and also, the three connectors that attach to the reel readers. Also, the large Molex connectors that plug into the reel assembly. Also, remove the I/O board and check the solder integrity on the PC board for each terminal. A magnifying glass is an easy way to look for cold solder joints.

For the long delayed payout, I'd look at that Beau connector behind the hopper mechanism. The terminals used are low-rent and not reliable. Go thru them with a pink eraser for the male terminals, and find one male terminal that isn't used; remove it from the connector and use it as a "pull force" pin to check the female pins on the bracket behind the hopper. A loose terminal will exhibit very low friction and could indicate a poor connection. You then need to use a dental pick to reposition spring tension to that terminal. A bit of practice and you'll find it.

There is a signal to run the hopper motor, and a signal from the coin switch to count each coin. If that signal to the motor has high resistance in it, the motor won't run or will run slowly. After a certain length of time, the CPU times out and sets a tilt code if the expected coins are not delivered. A bad or mis-adjusted coin switch will give you the same results. Again, all plug in terminals should be firm and tight. Any looseness will give you problems.

mr-monoxide · « **Reply #17 on:** December 13, 2015, 04:44:43 PM »

It could very well be some connection issue as there definitely seems to be a communication problem somewhere between something and something. I'm not familiar with slot machine vernacular but I'm think I know the connectors your talking about from the description. I will try your suggestions and report back...

mr-monoxide · « **Reply #18 on:** December 20, 2015, 04:27:53 PM »

Update: So at this point I've cleaned and secured every connection in the entire machine and I also have checked the resistance on everyone of them as well. All of them check out ok, the highest reading I can get is 1.9 ohms checking from input side of the connector, through the connection, then to ouput. All solder joints also look ok as far as I can tell. I did end up changing out the reel control board just to eliminate it as a possibility. I also disassembled the reel stop mechanism and recleaned and oiled all moving parts. Everything moves freely including the black cross shafts. Unfortunately the problem persists. Sometimes it works perfectly, most of the time it doesn't. It just keeps throwing a code 91 or 71 if it tilts before the reels stop or codes 41 and 71 if it tilts after all 4 reels stop. If it's working good it passes test 5 with no problems, all other times it fails showing 0000 in the display. I've measured input voltage to the reel assembly at anywhere between 4.1 to 4.4 volts. Is that low? It seems low to me. I'm currently waiting on a new power supply to be delivered. I'm really hoping that replacing it will show some positive results because I have no clue what to check or do next...

mr-monoxide · « **Reply #19 on:** December 20, 2015, 06:14:44 PM »

Also, reel reader voltage is roughly 2.25v with led's unblocked dropping to 0.4 when blocked. It's the same for all 4 reels. Is that normal voltage?

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Author Topic: E2290-1 acting wierd (Read 8960 times)