igt+ 13-0 code door optics problem

[alrolon800]

ok guys.  before i changed to the wga validator I recapped the dbv-200 power supply. after reinstall i got a 49 code. checked reel 3 and it somehow unplugged itself. replugged it in and 49 did not clear till i reclosed the door. GREAT!!  It also shows my door optics work!! now it works fantastic. Next decided to change to wba validator. modified area to install, put it all together. low and behold a 49 code shows up again. said no problem, i know what it is. My brother said "why is the molex plug coming out. Perhaps its not plugged in all the way?" he was right. I was afraid to push too hard, but after some coaxing it clicked into place. NOW I cant clear 49 code!!! My door will not recognize the door optics.  under test it only shows 13-0. changed optics from another machine and still no 13-1. took optics and swapped to good machine and BAM! works good in other machine. and yes did many manipulations and still no go. found door sensor long enough to put right on top of frame sensor and still no 13-1. Now I was thinking that because of that intermittent reel connection, that maybe I should to a RAM reset. and of course the validator turn-on. no broken or cut wires. everything is in place and I know code 49 will not clear if machine does not recognize door closing.  ANY problems seen here that i am missing??

[Stayouttadabunker]

Check the pins inside the Molex reel connector housing.

It should not be that hard to push the reel Molex connector upwards at all.

The ground pin or other may be pushed in too far,or bent - not allowing full contact between the male/female pins.

Also, pull out the main Black Molex connector housing on the motherboard and re-seat it.


Could be possible oxidization of connecting pins.

I use a "De-Oxit" aerosol spray to clean the pins....they tend to get like car battery terminals.

[alrolon800]

yes, i have de-oxit---used it to lubricate it but that is not the problem. I fixed that problem with the molex..  my problem is door sensor does not show door closed when using reset key on code 13...

[Stayouttadabunker]

Keep your eye on the [Coins Played] window as you slowly push the latch handle downwards to line up the door emitter with the cabinet receiver optics.
That number should change when the optics "see" each other.
It could be just a simple alignment problem.

[alrolon800]

thanks Stay, I replaced optics on my other machine with the ones thought to be bad and had it lined up in 15 seconds. right now all i can think is maybe there is a connection from the front optics behind bill validator i did not see and it got disconnected somehow. i do know that once problem is found my door test will toggle from 13-0 to 13-1. Again i will state, optics already changed with good ones and optics can easily point at each other by hand!!!!!!!! hence no need for alignment till after i see test giving me a 13-1.

[knagl]

Just to eliminate an easy fix, are you sure you have the emitter and receiver plugged in to the correct plugs in your problem machine?

IGT stupidly made the connection for the emitter and receiver the same size plug, so it's possible to inadvertently connect the wrong component to the wrong wires.

The emitter has red and black wiring, and should be installed on the portion of the door that swings open.  The receiver has a slightly more domed appearance to the part, and has red and white wires, and gets installed on the inside of the cabinet and does not move when the door is opened.

[alrolon800]

I have 4 identical machines/ red and white on the reset button side and red and black on the door side. already swapped them out with known good ones and still not working. Donor machine working good with swapped out ones. gonna check voltages tomorrow and then proceed with the clear chip. Ive done it several times before. so ive becore pretty good at it.

[alrolon800]

is there a plug to the mpu that comes from the door optics and where is it located. Maybe it came loose during the removal of the sled to make the wma cash can fit. a little banging and drilling to get that sled out. maybe i disconnected something to the door optics.

[Stayouttadabunker]

The optics are pretty fragile....hence the tie wrap locations to prevent the wires from moving too much.

It's easier to check to see if the optics are working okay simply by doing the tests...but you can check the emitter optic by using a cellphone camera too....for some reason, the cellphone cameras picks up the infrared light emitting from the door optic.

Unfortunately, the camera won't see anything from the cabinet receiver optic as it doesn't emit any light.

Knagl is right on about the wire colors....looks like you verified that by comparing other cabinet optic setups.

[alrolon800]

FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!  wire for cash can microswitch had a nick in it and was being held together by the blue insulation. gave it a pull and broke right off. reconnected and all is working now. that wire ran under cash can sled and upon drilling it out to fit wba validator it got nicked. I eliminated cash door switch since this is a home machine anyway. I dont think my wife is going in there to steal my piggy bank!!!   LOL  that cash door switch is connected directly to the optical switch on the door.  thanks everyone.

[Stayouttadabunker]

I would connect it to the burglar alarm.... 

[alrolon800]

LOL OH Gosh, you dont understand the half of it.