IGT S+ HELP

[TheSpotArcade88]

I recently got a five times pay two coin machine from a friend. It didnt work for him and he gave it to me for helping him with a test. I got it to power up. Initially there was a error 12. I replaced the battery and cleared the error after the 61 1 stuff. Also I'm totally new to this kind of stuff so please forgive me if I'm mot using them right words or terms. The machine turns in now and the reels spin, the bill acceptor makes noise and there are not errors. I put new door optics in because they were missing and it put a new coin comparitor in because I wasn't sure if the old one was good. It shows a zero in the coins played window and the insert coin light is blinking as well as the light on the top. I tested the coin optic and the 10-1 does not change. Them 11-1 and 12-1 both change though. Also when I close the door the reels dont spin again and the coins played doesn't turn off briefly. I don't know if I'm doing anything wrong or if there is something else I still need to do. Im hoping to get it working so I can add it to my game room.

[jay]

Wow - it sounds like you have been doing some reading and are far a head of most first time users.


I presume by your handle you have some arcade experience.

When you drop coins in - do they go to the hopper or fall through to the coin tray ?
Do you have a sample coin in your coin comparator ?


Please check out this post here.....
Sample coin installed correct (newlifegames.com)


There is also a very (very) tiny button on the coin optics (directly below the comparator) If you press it it will give you a test credit and you can try out the machine.


Since You did a clear after your 61, you will need a SET chip to enable the bill validator.
Instructions for this can be found in Ricks FAQs on the bottom right of our home page.


Please post back and Let us know how you make out.

[jay]

Also forgot to ask what coin comparitor do you have.....
CC-16  or CC-33   < followed by a letter ....

[TheSpotArcade88]

Hi Jay. I have very basic arcade experience. I started collecting arcade machines a couple years ago and have made my garage a arcade I named "the spot". I've been reading a ton of things on here trying to get this slot machine going which is where I got to the point I'm at now lol. I have a quarter in the coin comparitor. Right now when I put a coin in it just drops straight into the tray where the coins would go if the machine paid out. Nothing goes into the hopper. I also hit the little button on the coin optic board but it doesn't give a credit or anything. I was kinda thinking the problem is there because of that button not working but I'm mot sure. Would I need the bill acceptor to work in order to play the machine? Im ok with it not working and it just using quarters if that is a option. Although it would be cool to be able to put cash in it put it's not a bit deal to me. I will poke into the post about it though. Oh and it is the CC-16. I was only able to get the green light to come on in test mode for the coin comparitor. I tan the cable through the belly door and closed the door once to see if it came on. Im not sure if that is helpful to give you an idea on what might be wrong.

[jay]

The light doesn't come on with the door open.  Perhaps in test mode.
What letter is after your coin comparator - they come in different voltages and some are AC and some are DC.

You don't need the bill validator enabled to play the machine.
Fundamentally The S+ works on credits. One coin in = 1 credit.
The denomination is determined by the coin matching what is in the coin comparator.
The coin head, optic spacers and hopper wheel all have to be the right size otherwise you get jams but fundamentally the machine doesn't know if your playing with pennies, dimes, quarters or tokens. 
Coin matches = give the man a credit.
When it comes to the bill validator what the SET chip does is to tell the machine how many credits to give for a buck.


Are your reels stiff ? or just easily spin by hand.
They should spin when you close the door.

Did you check your fuses ?

What it is sounding like to me ....... given that the optic button is not giving you a credit - even if the optics were bad or dirty you would get a credit

Is that the wiring harness is not right for the coin comparator

Try disconnecting the coin comparator then try the optic button and see if you get a credit

Can you post some close up pictures of your harness plugged into the comparator


Fixed tiny font issues. -knagl

[TheSpotArcade88]

I unplugged the compariter and hit tue button but still no luck with it giving any credits. Im having trouble attaching a photo. It says the file is too large. The numbers on the compariter are see. # 951372
CMI# 66160071
MODEL# CC-16-D.100 REV-F. And the optic s board I believe is a 10 pin connection

[jay]

If you take your cell pic, email it to yourself and it will give you the option to reduce size. Then post the reduced size pic.


You have a CC-16D which is a 12v comparator. I think for WMS machines.


You need a 24v AC model which is a CC-16E
http://www.spininc.com/coin-comparitor-cc-16-24-vac-igt-s-plus-pe-plus-100-26-g-weight-if-0928004-ref-igt-part-number-570-189-91-66160188
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124723993741?hash=item1d0a211c8d:g:7hEAAOSweu1gnk1n


Here is what the harness should look like https://www.ebay.ca/itm/254943422887?hash=item3b5bcfe9a7:g:vvYAAOSwxXZcaz39


You mentioned you replaced your previous one what model was it ??

[TheSpotArcade88]

The old one was the same model. Maybe the previous owner put the wrong one in it.

[jay]

I have been reading a bit and it looks like you can use that model of comparator with the right harness.
I have asked another member to take a look at your harness wiring.

[TheSpotArcade88]

Oh ok cool. Hopefully I can use this one. The harness I have that hooks up to the coin comparitor is the same one from the link you sent me. I can take a picture of that cable too if that will help. Thank you for all your help. Im hoping I can get this machine working. It looks like it will be a lot of fun to play. And itll make a cool piggy bank for some quarters.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Hi Spot,I looked at your CC harness...it looks ok.
Your photo is awesome because I can blow it up and see things!
However, it's hard to tell if there's two grey wires coming out of the top of the CC that goes to the back of it to the magnetic "rake".
You said earlier that you stuck the CC harness out the door to see if the CC LED light comes on but forget to say if it did or not?

I'm wary of the coin-in optics....that's a very old version.
How do I know? That yellow tape...lol...that was made around 1989 or 1990.
That could explain why the Service Coin button on the button doesn't give you a tester credit.

Can you tell us where you're located?
You could PM me with your addy and I can Google and see how long it would take to send you some known working parts to get you up and running again.
If not too too far, I could send you a working coin unit if you send me yours.
I will test it on my Frankenstein tester and see if I can determine what's wrong with your unit while you get to play with the set I send ya.

I don't have a chance to look up your CC version to see if it does indeed need a different harness or not.
I'd spend an hour looking for the documentation...I'd rather just send you a known working one that will work with the harness you have.

Finally, your door optics are made of two different optics to sense door closure.
The door emitter optic sends out an infrared light that is shot out to the cabinet receiver optic.

Could you look at your optics and see if the wiring to the optic connectors are correct?
The door emitter is a 2-pin Molex with the black wire of the emitter going to the pointy side of the connector.
The red wire goes to the flat side of it....you can check to see if it's emitting infrared light with a digital camera.

The cabinet receiver optic also has a 2-pin Molex connector.
On this one, the red wire goes to the pointy side of the connector.
The white wire goes to the flat side of it.
You won't be able to see anything with a camera because it only "receives" infrared light.

If they are not working correctly, the CC won't register any credits when you try to run coins thru it because the machine is sensing the door is still open....you've got to get your door optics working 1st and then the coin-in board.
Whatever number is displayed in the last far rightmost display called [Coins Played] must briefly go out as the optic begin to "see" each other, then either the same number comes back or whatever number that was in there previously before the door was opened.

It seems like you've tried some tests and that's good...first time I've ever seen a newbie do this! lol That's awessome!

The only way you can get credits when the door is open is with the Service Coin button on the bottom of the coin-in optic circuit board I mentioned earlier....however that doesn't seem to work either.

That's all I can think of right now....other than wiggling the two gray wires on top of the CC going to the "rake".....those two wires like to oxidize and cause the rake not to open in time as coins drop thru to the coin tray instead of being redirected as it should.
Wiggling the two gray wires can sometimes get the rake to work as wiggling makes a fresher contact between the internal female and male pins....sometimes.
De-Oxit spray works better....takes the oxidization off of the metal to get better electrical continuity....

Oxidization is sort of like that junk that collects on car battery terminals over time.
You really want to use this stuff on the power harness too....the ground pins (two green wires) on the floor motherboard Molex connector are susceptible to poor contact over time on the  S+ platform models.

[Stayouttadabunker]

I must add this...>>>

Try aligning the door optics with a good fountain pen and some masking tape.

Put masking tape vertically on the door and the cabinet near the optics.

Open the door and mark the cabinet tape horizontally with your pen of where the cabinet door receiver is.

Also, mark the door tape with where your door emitter optic is.

When you close the door, you will see how much they're off and not "seeing" each other or,  aligned perfectly?

[jay]

To that point you could also extend the wires on the optics and match the emitter and receiver together and simulate that the door is closed.

[TheSpotArcade88]

Sorry for the delay y'all. Work was bonkers this week. I tried the pen trick and I had to adjust them a little bit to get them spot on. But its still not noticing the door closing. I did notice that the wires are different one the inside vs. The door optic side. The wires that plug into the door optic that is in the cabinet are red and green with 2 green wires. The door optic that is on the door that actually swings out has a green and black wires and there is only one of each there. Ive tried following the wires looking for anything that sticks out but I havent had any luck. But I did test the door optics with the jackpot key and the numbers still change when the sensor moves away and in front of each other.