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Author Topic: Newbie with my first slots - 2 IGT S+ machines – Will need some help I’m sure!  (Read 1266 times)

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Offline JimatJax

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 Hello folks, I just purchased my first slot machines and I’m excited about them! 

Got a package deal for these, the Double Diamond Deluxe (DDD) and Haywire Deluxe (HD).

Both are working, but each need a little TLC and tune-up.  I’ll need a knife for the DDD hopper, might as well pick up a spare too!  Anyone have those?

For starters, the DDD makes a terrible sound from the reels.  I’ll attach a link to youtube with a short video and hopefully you can hear the sounds, it sounds like the motors are working hard/need lubed maybe?  I didn’t want to spray anything on them until I checked with the experts!  Also, the “play 3 credits” button doesn’t work like the HD machine.  It will load the credits but doesn’t spin instantly, have to hit the “spin” button to execute.

Video link:  https://youtu.be/sQImD2xXLOY

Both machines have a orange gook/blob/leakage of something on the inside.  Looks like on the DDD it starts just below the handle and drips down the wall and onto the top of the power supply.  Any idea what this is?

Both machines play/win counters inside don’t seem to work.  The only one that moved was the “coin-out” on the HD machine.  You can hear all the clicking which sounds like they are working, but the numbers stayed the same.  Could that leakage of orange stuff be coming from these?

On the DDD, it doesn’t have sounds when the reels spin like the HD.  It only has a sound on the reel stop.  Looking at the dip settings, I changed the #3 to the “on” position which should have given both sounds, right?  Do I need to do anything else to make that change take effect?

The DDD game prom chip is the SP1271, type 0/1/4/5/9, dated 10/28/02 (1-512), 2002 IGT WII S.

The DDD reel prom chip is the SS4247, 4th of July, dated 02/11/93 (1-64K), IGT WI.  (is the 4th of July chip the same?.....all pay outs have been correct and the diamonds drop down and go up in the game like it should!).

Both have the DBV-200 in them for bills.  At first the one in the DDD machine didn’t work there, but when I put it into the HD machine it worked fine.....except only with the $1 bills.  So, I guess that’s outdated for the chip/software?  I can make another post in the DBV category, as I’m getting lengthy hear in this post!  (The DDD machine did have the board battery replaced about 5 years ago, not sure if anything else was done, original owner said that was all he’s done within the last 5 years on both machines).

What is the best way to reduce the picture files, been having a hard time refreshing my computer skills!

I sure would appreciate any and all inputs, thank you in advance!

Offline Trisail

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Congrats on the new machines.

Almost everything you asked about is in the forums already. Hit the S+ section and do some searching and lots of reading. It is the best way to learn how to get them going and will give you that self accomplishment feeling.

If you really get stuck we are all here to help.

The reel sound in your video sounds pretty much how they sound. Don't spray anything on them, they are stepper motors, we can go into that if you really need but not necessary on how they work for you to get your machines running. Maybe check on the power cable and power supply recapping, that may help and should be done anyway.

There are menu setup steps you can do to fix most of the other problems. Check the forum.

The orange stuff is a normal problem with age of machines. You can fix it, but not causing any problem I see you are having now. Except maybe the spin switch that is on the handle in series with the bet 3 and spin buttons. Read the forum, this will make sense.

The best way I do the pictures is - I use an Android, take the picture and then edit it and resize to under 1000KB, must under 1000KB can't be 1,000,001 bytes. Then you can email them to yourself and post with computer or you can post them from your phone. (if iPhone - someone else would know) You can check the forum for ways to reduce them too. Best not to post pictures on 3rd party sites, they don't work after a period of time.

Others will post and help I'm sure.

So without seeming like I don't want to help, I do, and many here will, and do. Just saying, if you want to fix the machines at your own pace everything is here for you. Please, feel free to ask as many questions as you like. We all started the same place you are at. I've been here a bit over 3 years and enjoy helping, a lot. I learned a lot on my own, read a bunch on the forums and feel it is really cool to play around with them and get it done. Many members helped me along the way and will help you too. There are some things that you could do to cause problems, but these machines are build tough. Have at it and ask away.  Don't clear the machine until you absolutely have to. ( It's on the forum )

Enjoy and welcome,

Tony
Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Offline gameking6

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"the “play 3 credits” button doesn’t work like the HD machine.  It will load the credits but doesn’t spin instantly, have to hit the “spin” button to execute"

This is changed in the menu (white button by the power switch):
0 39 0-1 Max Bet Autospin

Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Offline JimatJax

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Thanks for the reply and info Trisail and gameking 6.

I have been reading post for the last few days, only back about 3 months.....guess I'll keep digging until I find the answers.  Once I get brave enough to enter the settings that will probably fix some issues like you say! 

I have downloaded a couple of manuals too, the IGT field and owners.....they have a ton of info, just have to become familiar before I attempt to go into the settings and look at stuff and change things.....I'm so afraid of messing up something!

When I opened the door and watched the reels spin, it seems like #3 makes the most noise and that kinda makes sense since it's the last one to spin in play mode, (but runs in reverse order during it's reset/test cycle).

Are those reels universal in replacement (#1 to #3, etc)?  If so, I could buy some used ones and just put the wheel from my machine on them and try another set of them?  Would it be okay to use the ones from my 2nd machine for a trial run to find the weakest reel?  I just want to figure out which one is the loudest, as my Haywire machine runs so quiet compared to the Double Diamond.

Trisail:  When you said "Maybe check on the power cable and power supply recapping, that may help and should be done anyway" (where/what is that?....sorry for my lack of knowledge, thanks)

gameking6:  I'll give that a try....I'm sure that will fix it, thanks!  (should I run thru all the test/settings?)

Update on the DBV-200:  I tried a $10 $ $20 last night and they worked!  It will accept all bills (any way) except for the $5.  Wonder what's different about those?  Haven't tried a $50 or $100, but the bezel says only up to the $20.  I'm happy with that.

Thanks again for your help!



 

Offline RB

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DBV200 will take everything but the latest $5 and $100 if the software is up to date.
Quality doesn't cost. It pays.

Offline Trisail

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You can swap the reels no problem to troubleshoot if you want,  just be sure to put them back in the same spot from the original machine in case the strips are different on each reel.  Be careful with them, the plastic baskets are really fragile the strips are mounted on. Moving an entire assembly is pretty simple, just be real careful you don't drop one or force it any where. I would recommend treating them like you handle very thin fragile glass.  You don't want to have to get used ones, they don't ship well at all. Can be done but don't go there if you don't have to.

You can swap the reel baskets, but as mentioned above be real careful.

Funny you ask about cable and PS, check this post out.  :yes: :wave:
Do too many PS's can't keep everything straight any more. The S+ doesn't have a PS to recap.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=32733.msg173795#msg173795

The new $5 usually doesn't work, they came after the software updates stopped on the BV's, the $50 should work though.
Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Offline JimatJax

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Thanks RB and Trisail. 

The DBV-200 shows to be version 2.60-04-03 (65BE) and works okay except the $5.

Going to attempt the various test procedures after some more reading.

If you know anyone who sells the new reels please advise!  I've sent a few emails out to some internet sites and awaiting response.

Anyone know what that orange gook is that dripped down?  I'd hate for that to leak into the power supply, might cause problems?  It's awful tacky, not sure what will cut it for clean up on the top of power box, bottom of cabinet, etc.

Thanks again guys!

Offline Trisail

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Check this one out - 1st couple I got when I checked the S+ forum, plenty more in there if you want more info.

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=30158.msg158950#msg158950

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=6675.msg35815#msg35815

Clean it up, don't worry about it too much. Replace with something else - suggestions in the forum if you want.

Sounds like the BV is working fine.

Tony
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You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Offline JimatJax

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Thanks Tony!

I haven't made it back to late 2020 yet in all the reading, and for sure not back to 2014.  (You must have used the search engine??)  I'm working on my computer skills too!

Sounds like those folks were having trouble with the handle sticking in the down position once pulled.  Mine works just fine for now, but I'm guessing that is a problem due to happen sometime soon, once all the shock material wears out.  I'll have to tear into one of those and see what that's all about.

Still gotta work on the clicking counters that don't work, make a lot of noise but don't add.

Thanks again for your help!

Jim

 

Offline Trisail

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Sounds like you are doing good. I don't want to scare you but there is an archive forum also with good information.  You may be at this a while  :stirthepot:

The search will help if you are looking for fairly specific items. Like ' orange '

Enjoy and good luck.

As for the meters, you can bypass them. Unless you want them to work.  Needed for the casinos but not needed for home use.

Enjoy,
Tony
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You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Offline JimatJax

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Okay, thanks again Tony!

Here's an update:  (getting closer to fixing all my items in the original post, items still working are identified with *** below)

- The #3 reel which I thought was making all the noise, well once I pulled it out I noticed the cap/washer that holds the basket to the motor was almost off......so I just pushed it back on all the way and no more noise from the reels, sounding smooth now!

- Once I obtained the PSR for chip SR1271 I was able to read and study....still reading and studying that monster, but getting more familiar with going thru the first couple of areas.

*** - I still don't have sounds when the game is playing other than the reel stop (started with the dip switch #3 off, turned on now but the SR1271 says dip settings are not affected with that chip).  I've changed the settings in the page 0 option, group 2, set on 0.  Does the same as 0 2 1 making sounds on reel stop only.  I went thru all the sound test in #50 and all sounds work when I checked them clicking the jackpot reset key and spin button.  Any ideas of this monster not making it's sounds during play?

*** - Counter meters not working.  I done the output test in Group #3 – Miscellaneous Tests & Configurations, Output Test #2, #10 (coin drop), #11 (coin out), #12 (coin-in) & 27 (jackpot meter).  It did not give me the option to change anything (0 or 1) as nothing lite up in the display, when I hit the spin button to toggle I can hear the click sounds at the meters, but nothing on display.

All other areas have been fixed or getting fixed and solved.  The count meters would be just a nice to have thing working (not necessary).  Thought it would be neat if they could be reset to zeros and then I could see the actual count of what I put thru the machines.  The sound feature would be nice to get fixed, but not necessary either.

Thanks again to everyone who has helped me out getting these machines rolling.  I'm slowly learning the process and enjoy the challenge!  Everyone stay safe and have a nice weekend!

Jim



Offline Trisail

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Doing good, keep it up. You will get all working.

The sound should be a setting in the menu setup. I remember seeing a post on what to do but haven't found it yet. Seemed like it wasn't easy to find the correct way to set it so the sounds play.  Maybe someone will find it and post a link.

Sounds like the meters work with test, think thats all it does. I'll check it out on mine to see how it works. I don't think you can reset the meters easy. I'm pretty sure they were made to not be easily reset due to the gambling regulations.  I'm sure you can disassemble carefully and manually try to set them to zero. I haven't tried but if you can get them apart and back together, I'm sure it can be done.

Tony
Tony

You can fix almost any electronic device by replacing the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Offline jay

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I have attached a simplified cheat sheet - its easier to read than a PSR that covers most settings for the major chips.
If you read it and the PSR at the same time the PSR starts to make more sense.
Since your sound tests all work it - sounds like (pun intended) that your not saving your reel sound changes after making them.

With regards to the bill validator working in one machine but not the other - you need to activate the bill validator using a SET chip.

On the NLG home page - bottom right - you will find RICKS FAQs - there is a description of how a SET chip is used to activate the bill validator and there is the IGT game bible which will tell you the %% payback and other fine details for your game theme. I suggest if your buying a SET chip you also get a Clear Chip - you rarely need a Clear but if your ordering one get both.

The counter meters  - many people just pull them out due to the noise they make. They don't need to be there for the slot to function.
If they are not working and you want them working - try pulling them out and cleaning the contacts, but you can always get another set and they just plug in.

The software settings you reference are not related to the physical meters - these are internal accounting registers that can be looked at through software.
With the machine closed you use the jackpot reset key and you can go to statistics mode and see the coin in/out and other fine details.
Using the clear chip these can be zero'ed out but the physical meters never change.

In a real casino setting the slot attendant would write down the physical meter values, write down the values in the software view of things, and dump the entire hopper coinage, replacing it with a fixed number of coins that were pre-counted. I believe these were called a Float Bag. There were a number of mob references where the occasional Casino Cheat would get buried in the desert with a Float Bag over their head in order to send a message. The cash can (from the bill validator) would be pulled.

The casino then needed to report on any discrepancy between the recorded coin in (which includes bills) and coin out.

My understanding is the major overhall of the Game chip (ie 731 to 1271) which dropped win music in favor of accounting was to unearth casino skim by the mob.
Physical meters could be removed, altered, and replaced where as the gaming software was not easy to tamper with.
I don't remember the voltages but applying a voltage causes the meter to advance, so hook it up to a battery and run it to whatever number you want it to say.





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Offline JimatJax

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Thanks Jay for all that info, you must have been a slot tech or just know a lot about them!

I recently picked up the SP731 chip and plan to replace the SP1271 chip and see if that gives me the sounds missing, because all I could get was the win sound and I tried the settings both ways.

I was told to do a clear RAM also if the new chip doesn't produces the sounds right after installing, so I hope that if a clear RAM is needed and it defaults back to the casino settings I won't have too much to reset.  I also have the SET chip 015 for BV, but currently have it out of the machine, so that's later.

The BV that I swapped out was only making an attempt to accept bills.  When I put the other one in, it started working for all bills except the $5 and $100.  When the SET chip is used, does that make changes within the BV or the MPU board/chips?  I haven't tried the SET chip on the BV that didn't work, I just received the chip.

I'll tackle the cleaning of contacts on the counters too like you mentioned, thanks for that info!  If that fails, I'll be on the look out for someone selling those, I'd like to get them working just to see how many coins go in and out, wins, etc.

Thanks again.....have a nice weekend!


Jim



Offline JimatJax

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UPDATE:

After cleaning up my machine (all electrical plugs) I was able to finally receive all the sounds!

My original SS1271 chip was still used and I didn't have to do the clear and reset everything (wasn't looking forward to that).

So, I guess one of the plugs could have been affecting not receiving the sounds?  I don't know, maybe there are some gremlins in the machine!!  We will never know.

Thanks again to everyone for your help, it's been a learning experience all the way!

This topic can be closed out and marked as solved.

 

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