S-plus doesn't operate

[CabinetDan]

I just got my first slot machine.  It's a 1994 Double Spin Double Diamond.  Looks like it should be an S-Plus.  Somebody had already messed with the wiring, so now to try to get it running.

Here's what I got.  Drilled out the lock to open it.  Plugged in and the top light (arched top) and the display lights on the door light up.  The bill changer cycles like it's doing a self test, then that's it.  After I changed a blown fuse on the power supply, the reels "tensed up" but that's all.

There are 3 plugs on top with nothing plugged into them.  I have one plug dangling that seems like it should plug into it.  Above there are two "two wire phone wires" that are cut off.  I believe 1 of them went up top to the rewards card reader. And the 2 wires that go to the switch that confirms the bill container is installed are also cut.

With the door closed and power on, won't take quarters (yes there is a coin in the coin comparitor).

Not even sure where to start.  Any guidance is appreciated.



(edit to make some paragraphs)

[rokgpsman]

Welcome to NLG !   

To get started the best thing to do first is post a photo or two of your machine. That way we can make sure of what model it is. And knowing exactly what machine you have will help us to answer any following questions you might have, without us having to ask multiple questions later.

Also, because this is all new to you then you will probably have a little trouble describing or using the correct terminology (until you learn more about it). So it is best to post photos of anything you aren't sure about, like the connectors you are referring to, or parts you don't what they are. That way we can quickly understand what it is that you are asking about.

These machines were originally built for casino use, not for private home use. So when the casino is done with them and they are sold there is often specialized equipment inside the machine that the casino removes and keeps. They don't remove the wiring cables for that equipment they remove because it is too much trouble. This means there can be cables and connectors inside the machine that are not connected to anything. These extra cables & connectors are often located in the topbox area, behind the top glass.

The disconnected cables usually do not affect the operation of the slot machine. That extra equipment that was removed isn't something you will need, it was stuff like player card tracking equipment or equipment that connected the machine to the casino network computer system or equipment that had to do with progressive jackpots. A photo will let us be able to tell you about it.

[jay]

Tense reels are a good sign.
Does the large center denomination light up ?
Is there any numbers in the coins played, winner paid, credits windows ?
What do the coins do when you pop them in - do they drop through to the coin tray or go to the hopper ?

PICS 

[CabinetDan]

Thanks for the replies. The only lights are what I'd call display lights. Nothing on the winner or credit displays.
Here's a few pics. It's at work, so I can get more detailed pics tomorrow

[CabinetDan]

Here's the last of what I have so far

[rokgpsman]

From your photos I think we can say the following things:

The machine is an IGT S+. The mpu board is mounted vertically in the bottom part of the machine, it is attached to the other side of that metal tray that has the round black knob. The mpu is plugged into a small board below it that is called the motherboard.

The machine's bill validator is a DBV-200.

That small green circuit board mounted to the back wall is not important, it was for connecting the machine to the player tracking system in the casino. You can see that is has "Bally Systems" written on it.

When you take additional pictures try to use more light in the room and hold the camera steady, most of the photos are good but some are not very clear when enlarged to see details. Thanks!

If you don't know the history on this machine it is a good idea to remove the mpu board and examine it. There could be battery leakage or other damage to it. Just grab that round black knob and pull upward, may need to wiggle it to unplug it. When you get it out the mpu circuit board is attached to the metal tray with the black knob. Look it over, find the round battery and see what condition it is in. If you have a meter you can check to see if it has 3.6 volts DC, or close to it. Post a photo of the mpu board while you have it out of the machine.

Also, with the mpu board (and hopper removed) from the machine stick your head in there and with a flashlight look at the motherboard, see how it looks. Examine the white molex power supply connector that plugs into the front area of the motherboard. Make sure that white connector doesn't have any brownish area on it, look on both sides. Brown/burned areas on this connector indicate a bad electrical connection on that connector, this happens a lot on S+ machines.

Below is an example photo of the motherboard power supply connector that has a bad electrical connection:

[jay]

The large 25c decal in the middle should be lit as should the winner paid / credit window.
With the hopper out - machine on - I would look at the large white molex plug on the center of the mother board.
Try wiggling it and see if that 25c center decal lights up.


I would also pull all of your fuses and test them with a multimeter (for continuity) to make sure nothing is burnt out.

[rokgpsman]

I think this is the S+ information page for your machine. The glass shown on the info page is for a "flattop" style machine and yours is a roundtop but it looks to be the same game otherwise. Your mpu board will have 2 socketed chips, one is called the SP chip and the other is the SS chip. The chart shown at this link below lists the various SS chips that can be in your machine on the mpu board. The SS chip determines the player win percentage on the game (among other things).

http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Spin%20Double%20Diamond%20(3%20Coin%20M.htm


EDIT- the top glass in your photo appears to be the wrong one for this machine. The SS6193 chip on your mpu is for Double Spin Double Diamond and your bottom glass is also DSDD. But the top glass is Diamond Double (not Double Spin Double Diamond).

[rokgpsman]

...With the door closed and power on, won't take quarters (yes there is a coin in the coin comparitor).

Not even sure where to start.  Any guidance is appreciated.

Just below the coin comparitor is a small circuit board called the coin optics board. In one corner of this board is a small switch. That switch is for testing purposes. Pressing it will add test credits to the machine. Try pressing it (with the main door open of course) and see if a credit gets added to the machine. This will tell you something about how the machine is or is not operating. If a credit does get added then press the "Spin" button on the front of the machine and see if the reels spin. If they do then you may have very little wrong with the machine.

Are the wires that you believe come from the cash storage compartment (or bill validator security switch) connected together, or just hanging loose? A lot of times the wires that go to the security switch on the cash can are disconnected from the security switch and the 2 wires are twisted together. This is a way to bypass the security switch and get rid of annoying errors. Maybe someone was trying to do this on the machine before you got it. Post some photos of these wires and maybe we can figure that part out.

[off-track]

With the door closed and power on, won't take quarters (yes there is a coin in the coin comparitor).

Replace the sample coin, then jiggle the slide that holds the sample, shut the door and wait till the machine spins the reels.  Then try adding a coin. 
If that doesn't do it, rinse and repeat the "jiggle" of the comparitor slide.  My S+ does this periodically if I don't play it regularly.

[CabinetDan]

OK, hopefully I'll hit on everything here. I have no history at all on the machine other than it's the victim of a divorce.
The DBV-200. Will that accept new style bills? or will I have to replace it? or can I even?
Battery is dead, so I'm assuming that's a place to start. I don't see anything burned anywhere.
The wires behind the bill validator are just cut. Not jumpered. Will see in pics. Perhaps the validator just didn't work?? The 25 cent lights up, but nothing else.   pressed the switch below the coin comparator and it did nothing,  Also changed the coin for what it's worth.
Here are some more internal pics

[CabinetDan]

Some more pics

[rokgpsman]

You are doing great on the photos. Yes, the dead battery on mpu will need replaced. You or a friend can remove the old one and solder in another one, pay attention to the + and - markings on the battery and on the board so that it gets installed the right way. If you aren't able to replace the battery yourself there are often battery stores in a city that have a tech that can do it for you. Places like Batteries Plus for example.

I see the cut wires on the white 'Cherry" switch. That's the large white switch with the big plastic plunger sticking out the front. When the front door of the machine closes it presses the Cherry switch plunger inward, and when the door is opened the plunger pops out. This movement of the plunger activates the switch contact inside. But usually on an S+ the door open & closed sensing is done with a pair of door optics parts. Does your machine have those? They are small round brass colored parts with 2 wires, the center portion of the optic part has a glass insert for light to pass thru. The door optic parts are mounted on the cabinet frame and on the edge of the door. If your machine doesn't have door optics parts perhaps it is old enough that the white Cherry switch is what it uses to know when the door is open or closed. In that case it will be important to restore the wires connected to the back of the Cherry switch.

The DBV-200 can be updated to work with some of the bills in circulation. Or it can be replaced with another DBV-200, or even with a newer bill validator system like the WBA models. You can remove the DBV-200 "head" (the black square unit that the bills insert into) from the machine and turn it upside down, there is a chip there that has a sticker that will tell you the version of the DBV-200 internal software. The version will be written similar to this: "ver 2.61". If it is working ok the DBV-200 will accept a $1 for sure, since they haven't been changed over the years like the other bills. And it will not accept the new $100 or new $5 bills since they were changed after the last software released for the DBV-200. The other bills ($20, $10, $50) will depend on the s/w version that the DBV-200 has.

But the bv is not the primary concern at this time. I'd suggest you get the machine working with coins first.

[CabinetDan]

The cut wires are on the switch that is activated when the bill "bank"? is inserted.  Not the door cherry switch. I'm adding a better Pic of that.  The only thing I can see that could be considered optics is the switch below the cherry switch.  Also adding a Pic of that as well as the other side mounted on the door

[CabinetDan]

Also, can't find the battery with the solder tabs locally.  No go at Batteries plus, so looking at a week to get it through amazon

[rokgpsman]

Ok, I see stuff better now with that last group of photos. Yes, those round brass-colored parts look like door optics to me. They should be mounted so they both come into alignment when the door is closed. You photos are taken close enough to the optic part that I can't tell exactly where they are mounted on the door and on the cabinet frame. But you get the idea how they should be mounted and work, right? One of the door optics is mounted on the metal sliding lockbar that latches & locks the door.

Can you post some photos of the inside of the main door, showing the coin comparitor and other stuff in that area? 

.....The cut wires are on the switch that is activated when the bill "bank"? is inserted. Not the door cherry switch. I'm adding a better Pic of that.  The only thing I can see that could be considered optics is the switch below the cherry switch.  Also adding a Pic of that as well as the other side mounted on the door

If the wires that are cut are the 2 wires that were connected to a security switch near the cash compartment then those can be twisted together to connect them, then covered with a plastic wire nut or electrician's tape. (wirenut is better, won't come off as easily). The cash "can" that stores the paper money usually has a security switch (or security optic setup) so the machine will know if the cash can is removed. And the small door that opens to get to the cash can sometimes has another security switch that activates when the keylock to it is opened. These types of security switches often cause nuisance errors and many home users bypass them. There will be 2 wires connected to the security switch, you can disconnect the 2 wires and connect them together if you want to.


Do the wires connected to the Cherry switch look like factory-original IGT wiring? They may be for something else if your machine has door optics. Sometimes auxiliary equip that was in the machine when it was in the casino may use the door Cherry switch for something. And sometimes a person will try bypassing the door optics and use the Cherry switch as part of that mod. You can follow the Cherry switch wires back and see where they go.

The mpu batteries with solder tabs are available online, may not find them at local stores. I can post links if needed. And we may have some folks here on NLG that stock them, we have members that sell parts for machines and they keep stuff like that on hand. You don't have to use the battery style with solder tabs, can also solder in the battery that has ordinary pigtail leads, just trim the pigtails as needed and bend the leads down so they lay flat on the mpu board solder pads.

Here is a good website for viewing photos of slot machine parts. You may have to register to use the website but it is worth it. On some of their webpages along the left side of the screen you can select filters such as "IGT S+" so the website will only show parts for that model of machine.

http://www.spininc.com/07886-0

[CabinetDan]

Yes on the optics.  They match up when the door closes.  Good call on the other switch.  that went up to something on top and the wire is cut.  So far as the switch behind the cash can, I haven't been able to locate where the original wire that got cut is.  Will have to look more later.


I ordered a battery, should be here Mon or Tuesday.  Could that dead battery be causing all of my problems?

[Paul]

Generally a dead battery will only give you a code 12 on the display.

Check the back side of the white plug for burn marks.
 

[rokgpsman]

Yes on the optics.  They match up when the door closes.  Good call on the other switch.  that went up to something on top and the wire is cut.  So far as the switch behind the cash can, I haven't been able to locate where the original wire that got cut is.  Will have to look more later.

I ordered a battery, should be here Mon or Tuesday.  Could that dead battery be causing all of my problems?

As Proten said a bad battery shouldn't keep the S+ machine from working, or at least working more than it is now. But it needs replacing so good to go ahead and get it done. Since the battery is bad and the machine did not display an error code "12" on the front digital displays that could indicate a power problem or a board problem, like mpu or motherboard. Others here with more experience than me will hopefully give advice about that.

Do you have access to another similar machine or any spare parts for troubleshooting the machine with?

Generally, when you turn on the machine the fluorescent lights will come on, the reels will do their initialization spin and the front digital displays often show something. The "Insert Coin" lite comes on indicating the machine is ready to be played. You said earlier that with the machine powered on the reels have some tension, they don't spin freely. Like Jay said that's a good sign, it means the power supply is at least working to get that voltage to the reel motors. If your pushbutton lites are lit that's another good sign that voltage is being made. When you turn on the machine do the reels move at all?

Are there any disconnected or cut wires that look like they are part of the original factory wires and could be causing a problem?

Double-check the 3 fuses, one of them could have blown again from the work you have done so far. And over the years the round black fusecaps sometimes get loose, the metal part inside the fusecap cracks or the spring inside the fuseholder breaks, any of that can cause power problems.

Since you have a meter it may be needed for you to check some essential voltages. And with the machine turned on and the front door open you can try wiggling that white molex connector on the front of the motherboard that we keep mentioning. If wiggling it causes the machine to start working then that's a problem.

[CabinetDan]

ok. I have 1 blown fuse.  I'll replace it in the morning and see if anything changes.  I did mess with the while molex plug while it was on, no change.  I switched fuses between 2 spots.  1 spot gives the wheels drag. the other spot, I get a slight static sound through a speaker in the door.  Otherwise, it just seems like there is no power going to the door. Other than the 2 fluorescent light fixtures.  Those go off if I pill the bottom fuse.  Tomorrow, I will pull out all of the disconnected wires to help see things clearer.  So, obviously, II need to change that fuse in the morning, but after switching them, I'm feeling doubtful that one being out is the problem.  ie. something powered through 1 fuse switches something powered through the other one.  But we'll see.
No, I don't have another machine to pull test parts. 
Should I be starting to think about hunting down an MPU and mother board?