I definitely have one that will work. Installed and tested in my bb1 last night. PM me if you need it

That Curve must have cost a fortune to have shipped to Alaska? Do you mind if I ask where you purchased the machine from? Those run $6-$7K, don't they? And I imagine those are Fam20 games?

Looking for another affordable slot machine I can tinker with. Appears most machine are single game or not as easily expandable as the IGT AVP systems.

My Crystal is not a curve its a Dual 23. The curves do cost more for sure. They make a Dual 23, Dual 27 & Curve. They all run Family 20 games however The Dual and Curves run different game packages. I got my machine from Joe Burton at JLB Games. Yes shipping to AK is not cheap. Average cost is 1,200-1,400 to get a machine up here. I like the fact with an AVP how you can have a lot of games and its easy and affordable. I would say however the games I see for other game cabinets look awesome and fun. But like you said its one game or maybe a few games at a time and the cost to obtain more games seems a lot more expensive. Member RB here on NLG can set you up with a library of games for Family 14 or Family 20 for a very reasonable cost. If you are interested in jumping to a Crystal. I'd contact him for a list of games he has and then search on Utube for game play videos to see if those games are what you like.
   

Sometimes, back to back presses work fine, no problem. But so much of the time is this constant pressing until it finally registers.

Remember you told someone that instead of turning the LED lamp around, you switched the wires?
If I were a betting man, I'd wager you broke a wire inside of the tab covering and it's barely hanging on.
Check all of your yellow/black and Black/Red wires that go onto the switch for a break in continuity.
Get yourself a good digital multimeter to check for continuity.
Your eyes cannot see under the vinyl wire covering.

If you don't have a multimeter, go into the tests for each individual button switch and wiggle the wiring as you perform the test.
If wiggling the wiring makes a button switch act funny, that wire you wiggled probably has a break inside the covering.
Something shorted on your switches before because you said that the contact tabs were all blackened.
That could of hardened the copper strands inside to the point of extreme brittleness, and therefore a possible break or choke in the wire crimped into the Push-On contact tab.
What I mean by "choke" would be by a wire having 4, 8, or 16 strands of twisted copper wire inside ( I don't know how many strands of wire are in there really) and only maybe 1 or 2 strands of wire hanging on to the Push-On tab, while all the others are busted...even hanging on by the vinyl wire covering.

The other two wires (Red and Blue/Black) are for the lamps...we don't care about those, and they wouldn't have any effect on whether the switches are working or not.
Those should all be on your switches, the exact same way...not screwed up. 

One thing that has always bothered me was these micro-switches.
They all have NO & NC tabs for "Normally-Open" and "Normally-Closed".
Why in the world would they put a "Normally-Closed" tab - which we would never use?
Even the IGT drawing of the micro-switches on the buttons isn't clear as to which tab is which. ( see below) 

If one Push-On terminal is on the wrong contact tab, that would cause problems with button operation.
Sometimes you might override the logic signal by multiple pushes (back to back presses) of a button....but normally the whole deck would be non-functional.

Your single black or double-black wires should always be on the "Normally-Open" tabs. 
Depressing a momentary deck button would thereby "Close" the circuit.

Click on button deck drawing below to enlarge if needed...>>>

Comparing your pictures, you did not receive your original MPU. There's only one dipswitch and maybe this board you have now does not support BV?

The little board where the input plugs for the monitor is the A/D board.  Basically it converts the VGA signal (which is analog) to a digital signal so it can be displayed on the digital screen (which is essentially any lcd/oled panel).  The fact that as it warms up, the signal becomes steady usually points to bad caps.