IGT S Plus Coral Reef not taking coins

[sixcardmark]

It could mean that your optics are weak. I use to have to adj electric triggering on bowling pinsetters. Those ball detects work off the same principal. When the optic would start fail the adjustment beams got smaller.

Interesting. I actually managed a bowling alley for a while, we had 82-70's! I knew nothing about them except for all the basic stuff, and a FEW advanced-basic items haha.


I'm just going to order new optics, see what happens. Starting to get frustrated with this thing 

Damn, my first full time job when I was 16 was a pinjumper.  Boss wanted to send me that Brunswick school to get certified, but I passed. I knew a little about the Brunswick and AMF pinsetters both, but man that was a long time ago.  I made a lot of money bowling instead. 

[sgolembiewski0903]

Pot games and such? These days its hard to make money in tournaments... but that could be because in AZ tournaments are much more scarce than they are in other parts of the country where they have a bowling alley every 2 miles! There might not be more than 50 bowling alleys in all of AZ, whereas Detroit metro probably has over a 100!

[sgolembiewski0903]

The optics do not touch. They must align. That's why you get signal in the sweet spot. Cabinet side up and down only. Door side in and out only. Told you that long ago.

Do you have 2 thin small washers to try under the cabinet optic to try and shim it out just a little?

I'm sure I do somewhere. I just ordered new optics, I've tried just about every which way of adjusting the optics (or so it seems)... I'll mess with it some more when the new optics arrive - hopefully Amechanic's comment about the optics getting weak is what the problem is here - struggling to come up with how else I can try aligning these things...


Also, Elvis and your comments kind of contradict each other, Elvis says cabinet optics only go up and down, sticking a shim in it would be "out and in"!

[Amechanic]

Also, Elvis and your comments kind of contradict each other, Elvis says cabinet optics only go up and down, sticking a shim in it would be "out and in"!

I never noticed that the door optics moved in and out? I’m going to have to look at my S+ Haywire. I’m not saying that using shim washers are correct. It’s just what worked for me. They were maybe .030 thick.

[therockinelvis]

Look at the screws. The cabinet side has slots for up and down movement. The door has very limited movement. I still remember my first experience with out of aligned optics. I was just as discouraged as you. Did you check the wires on the door side? Lift the latch up and down to see if they are rubbing something. So often they get pinched by the BV when the door is closed. When you get it you will say OMG and never forget. Were you able to take video of the cabinet optic with machine on? The optic flashes so quickly the eye can't see it. Since you have ordered replacement optics be sure to match the wire colors. They are 2 different optics. Receiver(door) and transmitter(cabinet). Only cabinet pulses. Removing the reel glass might seem like more work, but with it out of the way you can see the optics perfectly.

[sgolembiewski0903]

IllI have to make a  little video showing what's going on and post it here. To remove the third nut on the display (to remove windoe glass) it's kind of up there and tucked away, is there a trick to doing it? I tried removing the large metal panel in front of it but it wasn't coming out vwry easily and I didntd want to mess anything up!

[sixcardmark]

Best way to remove reel glass is to remove the fluor tube from top of door. This will expose three 7/32 nuts.  Use a nut driver is easiest.  Now you can remove the fluor tube socket/reflector assy.  You should now have enough room to remove the reel glass, pull up on it. Reinstall the fluor tube assy.

[Amechanic]

IllI have to make a  little video showing what's going on and post it here. To remove the third nut on the display (to remove windoe glass) it's kind of up there and tucked away, is there a trick to doing it? I tried removing the large metal panel in front of it but it wasn't coming out vwry easily and I didntd want to mess anything up!

To remove the door display nuts, you really need to take the inside door panel loose unless you can get at the nut with a socket and a universal swivel. With the door panel off a nut driver works great. You don’t need to remove the door display, just loosen it up to take pressure off the reel glass. Then you have the 3 nuts holding the reel glass fluorescent bulb.

[therockinelvis]

Nothing else has to be removed. Three 5/16 nuts under display as pictures. Display will lift up. Sometimes it is a little stuck from drink goo and smoke. Jut rock it a bit. Glass will slip out of light channel. Don't be scared and don't you give up after 7 pages here and 5 more on the other. These things are tanks, your not going to hurt it.

[sgolembiewski0903]

Tomorrow or the next day I'm going to work on it some more! Hopefully  I have the new optics by then just to be sure... granted I'm not sure my current optics aren;t working but hey - it helps to have a guaranteed working pair  .


Have been MIA for the last few days due to work, will probably be MIA tomorrow but I'm hoping to at least get to removing the reel glass... If going in through the bottom it seems very difficult due to space issues (I can't fit a screwdriver/my-hand in to remove the nut)... I haven't had time to fully digest your great comments yet, maybe it's easier than I first thought! SIxcard mentioned going i from the top, seems like it might be easier than going in from the bottom?

[therockinelvis]

1/4" ratchet with socket. 2 of the nuts you have to feel for.

[Amechanic]

Don’t over tighten them. I have found the studs broken off. If the feel hard coming off they could be rusty on the thread.

[sixcardmark]

I have changed the reel glass on S+ machines probably 50 times and have NEVER removed that lower panel.

[therockinelvis]

We all have different techniques

[sixcardmark]

I have tried to loosen those lower nuts before when the glass was stuck like glue from spilled drinks but never had much luck getting them all loose. Two of them are very hard to get to.  I think it's worth a try to start from the top.  Just trying to make it easier.  Hope I didn't offend anyone.

[rokgpsman]

.....I have tried to loosen those lower nuts before when the glass was stuck like glue from spilled drinks but never had much luck getting them all loose. Two of them are very hard to get to.  I think it's worth a try to start from the top.  Just trying to make it easier.  Hope I didn't offend anyone.

Don't worry about that, we all have different ways to do some things. Everyone here is trying to help and different ideas often give the person needing the help some choices to solve his problem in a way that works best for him.   

[Jim]

since you are having door optic problems removing the glass will serve many purpose:  first it will allow you to exactly see if the optics are aligned, and secondly it will allow you  physically to put the optics together to get the machine to reset the fault codes.

to remove the glass: remove the flor. lamp and its holder by removing the three 7/32 nuts, you can unplug the holder and get it out of your way. now loosen the nuts that hold the display panel in place, this will allow you to have some "wiggle" room when you remove the glass, again there are three nuts, 5/16 one under the left side (visible)  one underneath the denom lamp , and the third is on the right side, a little more difficult to get to, use a small extension (1 inch) this will allow you to work the tool with your fingers and not bust your knuckles. as stated before, the light fixture holder may seem attached after everything is removed, its just the foam padding sticking to the glass, some slight pressure will get it removed, same applies to the light panel, some gunk and grime may have it stuck to the glass, but some slight pressure will get it undone.

now you have full access to the optics and you can proceed from here. once the problem is solved, then you can replace the glass etc. 

Jim

[therockinelvis]

Well the next time I need to change reel glass I will try the flour. way. I have only changed kits in a S+ 2 times and that was for 5 line glass. And only removed for optic alignment twice and that was when I was a newbie. Have repaired at least 100 S+ and 50 or so S2000. IGT is by far my favorite machine to repair. Since he has used his clear chip we better get ready to teach him about the settings he will need. I remember my feeling of getting the optics aligned for the first time. He will be so happy with himself. And that is what this hobby is all about.

[sgolembiewski0903]

Removed the reel glass, still the same issue... even when moving one of the optics by hand, in order to get the machine to toggle from 0-1, that point is SO fine I think it would be impossible to align, not to mention the slightest bump of the machine would knock it out of alignment...


I doubt IGT designed their optics to work on such a precise alignment (it is so precise, I can only hold it for about a second before the natural shaking movement of my fingers knocks it out of alignment (and I'm not a very "shaky" person)).


Any tips on how to align? Personally, I'm eagerly waiting for the new optics, and praying that those work!

[therockinelvis]

loosen the screws just enough to slide the optic. Move it a hair, wait, repeat. Trying to hold by hand is pretty hard. If bumping the machine knocks it out of alignment then there are other issues. How much does your door move when it is open? Are you having to lift up on the door to close it?  Maybe bad hinge or just needs to be tightened.