Bally E 1235-4 Not working - Code 100002 - no test switch found

[antichrist]

Hello !

I´m new to this forum and new to slots. Need help.
Last weekend I got an Bally E 1235 Slot but when I switch it on, I get an  100002 on the winmeter.

Manual push of the Coin Switch does nothing and i look out for the Test / Reset buttons, but cannot find it.
Only on the right side next to the Reel Block there is a sticker: test Plug
and you can see 2 pcs of Molex 3x4 Pin Female connectors. thats all.

on the Hopper there are no switches ....

What can I do now ?
I have no schematic and no manual with this machine and unable to download it :-(

Marcus

[dhellis]

That error code would seem to indicate that the M1 Eprom is bad. I would pull that out and make sure
that you don't have a bent pin.

As for the test switch, these are located on the hopper control board. There are two small buttons that
stick up from the top, one is reset the other is the test button

[antichrist]

 I  will check this out,
which one is the M1 Rom ? next to the 2650 IC or opositte ?
I hope that you are right and there is only a pin bend , because if the rom is bad i´m out of luck here...

Thank you for your help !

M.

[dhellis]

To the right of the 2650 there are 4 chips M1  is the first one in that row, it is also marked M1 M2 M3 etc..
on the circuit board.

I do offer repair services for these boards if it isn't a bent pin and you want to have the board repaired.

[antichrist]

Thank you, I wasn´t able to remove the PCB board because I can´t remove the Reel Block at the moment.

You told me I should look out for the test switches but there are no test switches in this machine ?!
I think something is missing ... please look at the pictures and tell me what should plug in here
http://imgur.com/a/RRU9X
This was the left side in the cabinet next to the "reel block"

some more pictures here:
http://imgur.com/a/0iw05

very strange machine ... Hopefully not a garbage box with full of damaged pieces
Maybe you can tell me where to plug in the loose cable ?

M.

[Sunrise Side]

Your coin mech is missing. You need a mechanical coin mechanism in order for it to count coins and coin up the machine to play.  Need a picture of your coin hopper. The coin hopper is the assembly in the bottom of the cabinet. The hopper has a circuit board with the reset and test switches. The extra connections on the switches with no wires attached is correct and normal. The test plugs are correct with nothing connected to them.

[Sunrise Side]

I copied this pic from another post but you can see the red buttons on the left side. The left hand button is the reset . Tap it with your finger 4-5 times to make sure the contacts get a good connection then Push and hold for 3 seconds and release. Close the door and see if you get a  different code in the display.


Also you will most likely have to remove the reel assembly and lubricate it in order for the machine to work properly without errors.

[Mr. Dinoman]

I just went through this with a clients machine (E series) and it was a pain in the butt!.....But, with the help from Dan "Dhellis"   I was finally able to get it up and running...I highly recommend his services!!!...He is the man !...He has probably the only tester out there to test boards!...After getting all my boards checked and repaired by him, I had to continue with finding out the mechanical problems which still existed-Lubing everything and I mean every moving part!...Get yourself the manual, it does help if your really interested in getting the machine working...Make sure EVERY wire is where is should be...Looks like your missing one wire to the coin counter switch on the hopper...I had bad wiring, hardened grease, bad Eproms, burned connectors, etc...I have about 45 hours in mine of which 43 hours where a labor of love to get it working because of my fedish to get machines working ...The more information and pictures you can post the better for everyone on the forum to be able to help you...Good luck,
Jimmy

[dhellis]

Sunrise has already told you that the coin mechanism is missing so you will need that before the machine will work.

The switches are designed so that they can be wired as a normally open or normally closed switch. This means that
when the plunger is pushed the connection will either make or break the circuit. The plug in near the bottom of
the case (2 pin Molex) may not be used in your machine. The wiring harness is pretty generic so finding additional
unused connectors is not unusual. The fuse block is also rather generic, yours may cause you to think something
is missing when in fact that particular circuit isn't used.

The reel block has levers on each side, when in the up position the reel block is locked into place, pull them down
and you should be able to slide the entire mechanism out.

One thing that I find rather curious and that is that there is a label that says '2DM" to me this would indicate
that the machine was set up for the German 2DM coin. This coin is a bit more than 1 inch in diameter and is
likely the reason that the coin mechanism is missing. You can replace it with a $.25 mechanism but I would
suspect that you will have to adjust the knife blade on the hopper (if there is one) to get it to dispense coins
during payouts.

[antichrist]

Thank you all for the tips. 
I was finally able to find the testswitches[big] IN ![/big] the hopper unit.
After that I disconnect the 2 Molex plugs from the wheel block and lift it from the machine.
Next I unplug the cables and damn I killed the pins (2) of the dil16 plug - flatcable to the driverboard 
now i cannot test the machine via Testswitch. funny. I bend the pins while I was lift the plug, but not parallel...

Here new photos from the MPU pcb:

http://imgur.com/a/mVduh

Its a E2000 pcb and made in 1991 (!) some bad solderpoints (heat) are there but I don´t have my solderstation at hand, so I have to wait till I´m back in office again
I post this for everbody who has the same problems like me.
Details from DIP switch settings, Eprom Labels , NiCd battery and you can even see all components clearly.

@dinoman: what coinswitch wire from hopper you are refering ? and congrats to you for not give up - so many problems at once ? hmm
@sunrise:  there is no picture within your reply ! - I try to find an suitable mechanism. cannot use test switch at the moment, I have to find a new flatcable ...
@dhellis: hope I can fix the pcb, if not I have to purchase the eproms/proms from you. Sending the pcb to usa and back is not cheap and yes,  it´s a german machine.
the hopper will be tested when I have the new flatcable.

I´m not shure if the NiCd battery is leaking, but on the left pin it seems like leaking.
Which solvent are you using to remove the dirt/flux from pcb ? I try isoprophylene alcohol with minimal effect.
Which kind of lube are you using for the mechanic parts ?

greetings

[Mr. Dinoman]

In your first set of photo's, the first photo shows a red circle...There should be two wires connected to that switch...I believe they are hooked up for Normally open...It is the switch that counts the coins as they pass though the hopper and out into the tray...FYI...I had to adjust mine a little bit because the coin would not trigger the lever switch...
Jimmy

[dhellis]

The battery does look to be corroded, though not necessary to operate the machine it can be replaced. NiCad batteries are
difficult to find in the US so I replace them with NiMH but also will remove the 100 ohm resistor (R62) and replace it with a
diode. The band of the diode should be facing towards the marking for J4. This is diode is to prevent the battery from getting
voltage and thus overheating.

The flat ribbon cables are wired 1 to 1. I don't know where in Germany you live but these IDC connectors can be found
all over the place and are press on so not to difficult to cut off the old one and replace.

Some people like to use WD40, that is good for getting stuff loose but for lubrication it is better to use something light such
as 3 in 1 or the same oil that is used in sewing machines. For grease I use a light synthetic on the only machine that I own
which happens to be 92 years old.

[antichrist]

Found that IDC connector and replace the bad one

Where can I compare my EPROM checksums against others to verify my roms are ok ?
Which kind of checksum algo (crc16, Motorola ...) I should  use  ?

I´m still need a schematic of the E2000 MPU board , need to know how the reset generator and the interrupt prom works
Thanks for the sewing oil , got one

cheers,
m.

[dhellis]

The check sum should be calculated as the "Sum" of the data.

Here are the checksums that I have

M1 E755-16  8000
M2 E755-17  C400
M3 E755-18  1000

If you want to use CRC-16 then those would be
M1 F304
M2 8813
M3 17B6

Normally I would see the manuals in the download section but seems that I do not have permission to do
so at the moment so there is either some problem or maybe you have to be a contributing member or
something else is wrong.

[antichrist]

Thats true I have to be a contributin member with a monthly subscription. Sad

Strange checksums !! so Clean 8000,C400,1000  maybe they filled in special byte to get such a clean checksum code ?
Never saw this ....

thank you dhellis ! i will check this

[dhellis]

It is strange that the M-x chips all end with 00 and all of the game chips end with xx56 

[antichrist]

so here are the checksums (sum) for E2000 Series PCB: m1,m2,m3 and p1 rom

typ: d2716 intel

name checks   Label
m1     8000     e755-16 m1 2-21
m2     c400     e755-17 m2 2-21
m3     6000     e755-18 m3 2-21
p1     3b56      e2212-17 656088 M4
p2 no prom inserted

seems my M3 is corrupt  ?
your checksum is 1000 and I get 6000 ?

The next task is to swap the two ram chips and see what´ll be happen.

[dhellis]

I rechecked the checksum on M3 E755-18 and found that I fat fingered the number yours is correct
at 6000

[antichrist]

I swapped the rams 5101 u23 u24 with no result.

Then i pull out p1 Personality chip:
After switch in the display shows
6. . . .. . . .
After 1 sec.
6  . . . . . . 7

Pull out m1
. . . . . . . .

Pull m2
6 . . . . . . after one sec
0 . . . . .. .

Pull m3
6 . . . . .  after 1 sec
100002 same error AS usual ! Very Interresting

If you pull the rams i get immediately 100002
With rams: 000000 with flashing points after 1 sec 100002

[ramegoom]

I have gone thru dozens of surplus E2000 MPU boards a few months ago. Most of them had software on them so I extracted the data and saved them all. I don't have much for the E1000 machines though.

All P1's checksum to xx56.
All P2's checksum to xx00 Along with all M chips.

In the code, there is a series of data before and after the copyright text, and I believe Bally manipulated this data to satisfy the last two digits of the checksum. I played around with changing some of this data along with the copyright text to equal the original checksum and had no issues - on the P1 chips.

If you still experience errors after verifying checksums, possibly a bad EPROM or RAM socket? The chip sockets are first suspect on these kinds of boards, especially given the age of them. Very similar to pinball machine boards when it comes to chip sockets.