Asking for more help please...

[jonbbrew]

Hello all,
First, thank you to those that continue to educate and help me on this newer hobby over the past year or so.

I have posted before trying to get my SPlus RWB machine fired up but nothing is working. Here are the facts as i know them....

-Lights, bill validator and stiff reels power up]
-Nothing on the front panel
-No reel spins

-I checked the fuses and one was blown when  received the machine so it was replaced. Confirmed rest with meter
-I checked white molex plug but no burnt areas. Unplugged and replugged many times. I can hear power supply change and reels power and go free.
-No reset lock as PO drilled it out apparently. Made jumper but nothing occurs.
-Pressed test button but nothing
-Changed in a working board from slant top but nothing
-Put questionable board into slant top and shows a 61 error, but haven't figured out how to clear it to get it to run all the way. I don't think i have any clear chips as i have read about them but know nothing about using them as i heard it was a last resort. No error codes of anykind showed on RWB cabinet as nothing ever came up on display. I will post picture of chip set in case there is something wrong there.

So now what? Looks like i have 2 issues...

What could i look at with nonworking cabinet?

What to do to see if i can get questionable board fired up on slant top to ensure its ok?

[jonbbrew]

Here is the chip set

[sixcardmark]

When you get 61 on slant top push test button until it dings and turns to 61_1 then close the door and turn J/P key one time and wait for reels to spin.

[jay]

The Stiff wheels says your power molex is good.
Open the door - hit the white test button a few times, close the door, Do the reels spin ? and the insert coin light come on ?
Let us know on this one.

If the insert coin light is on but not taking coins - let us know, but pls let us know what happens when you do the above.


Regarding the 61 error on you other machine - go to the NLG home page, see RICKS FAQ on the procedure to clear the 61.
Bottom right of the page - you will also see the SET and CLEAR procedures there.

Its the norm to see this after a "game change"which is escentially what you have done by swapping boards.

61, becomes a 61-1 and then clears and the game is ready to play.
Often after a battery change (error 12) - you get the 61, then a 61-1 then a 61 (repeat) etc... and you need to use a clear chip to resolve this. Doesn't sound like you have hit this issue so don't worry about the clear chip.

Let us know after you have followed Ricks procedure for a game

[jonbbrew]

When you get 61 on slant top push test button until it dings and turns to 61_1 then close the door and turn J/P key one time and wait for reels to spin.

Perfect! Thanks...So now that tells me the board on the RWB is fine. So what now what for the RWB cabinet to troubleshoot now that i know the board is fine?

[Stayouttadabunker]

If you can tell us exactly WHICH fuse was blown, we can help you more.

Why?

Because a short made THAT fuse blow.

Let's hope there was a fast blow fuse in there rather than a slow blow fuse.
Check for burned out traces on the motherboard.
 

Top=6A
Middle=8A
Bottom=6A

Quick blow fuses ONLY.

[sixcardmark]

Try it again in rwb cabinet and see if you get a code.

[jonbbrew]

If you can tell us exactly WHICH fuse was blown, we can help you more.

Why?

Because a short made THAT fuse blow.

Let's hope there was a fast blow fuse in there rather than a slow blow fuse.
Check for burned out traces on the motherboard.
 

Top=6A
Middle=8A
Bottom=6A

Quick blow fuses ONLY.

It was the middle one...8A

[Stayouttadabunker]

okay good...may I see what you replaced it with?
FYI That middle fuse basically controls power to the reel glass display panel, the coin comparitor, and the stepper reels.
It's not that easy to find the short that caused the middle 8A fuse to blow because of all the different areas of the achine that power line runs to.
I would remove the motherboard first and carefully inspect every trace...there's not that many.
Use your senses....Sniff around, SOMETHING will smelled burned out.
Look very carefully, something will looked browned out or blackened...does anything look blown up?
With that board in the slant, all devices work okay?
I'm talking the bill accptor, reels, normal gameplay,coin comparitor, smoke-clogged fan?

[jonbbrew]

The Stiff wheels says your power molex is good.
Open the door - hit the white test button a few times, close the door, Do the reels spin ? and the insert coin light come on ?
Let us know on this one.

If the insert coin light is on but not taking coins - let us know, but pls let us know what happens when you do the above.

Nothing...No reel spin, no insert coin light...

PS The little box that has the power switch and test switch only has 2 wires going into it. Is that what it is supposed to be?

[jonbbrew]

okay good...may I see what you replaced it with?
FYI That middle fuse basically controls power to the reel glass display panel, the coin comparitor, and the stepper reels.
It's not that easy to find the short that caused the middle 8A fuse to blow because of all the different areas of the achine that power line runs to.
I would remove the motherboard first and carefully inspect every trace...there's not that many.
Use your senses....Sniff around, SOMETHING will smelled burned out.
Look very carefully, something will looked browned out or blackened...does anything look blown up?
With that board in the slant, all devices work okay?
I'm talking the bill accptor, reels, normal gameplay,coin comparitor?

Yes, slant top worked just as previous, with the exception that the game did not match the glass but yes.

Switched back boards and slant top back to working as it should....they always looked good to me. Battery replaced at some point, no melting of anykind or battery acid anywhere.

I am no puzzled. New fuse still working no blows. So frustrated.

[jonbbrew]

Try it again in rwb cabinet and see if you get a code.

All put back and still nothing....I am now remembering that when i first got the machine a few months ago and was just trying to fire it up before i dug into it anymore there was a very faint 21 code, but then it went away after trying to reset it. Never did spin though...

Im just trying to understand the process of getting the board to fire up, unless that is happening due to the wheels being powered and what comes after the board to do the rest...

[jay]

You have validated both MPU boards as good. Good job.

When you open the door close the door the reels should spin.
If the door is not sensed closed it won’t spin. This usually means your door optics are dead.
Is the candle light flashing ?

[jonbbrew]

You have validated both MPU boards as good. Good job.

When you open the door close the door the reels should spin.
If the door is not sensed closed it won’t spin. This usually means your door optics are dead.
Is the candle light flashing ?

Thats part of the issue is i have some other cosmetic type things i want to do but not until i get it fired up to ensure it will work. The candle is crushed and broken and the top glass is cracked. Seems like the PO dropped it at one point or something else crashed into it. I have been debating on at least getting a candle on it so i can see if that will give me any clues.

[jonbbrew]

Now where do i go from here?

[jay]

If you think it was dropped the optics could easily be out of alignment or one price may have actually fell off.
One set is on the door, the other is on the chassis.
They need to match up when the door is closed.

You can see if the emitter works by using a cell phone camera.
You can’t see it with a naked eye but a camera will show it as a slight flashing.
The receiver you can’t test the same way as it accepts light not emits it.

If you’re not getting anything get yourself some new optics.
Glass is irrelevant but get yourself a candle or steal it off your other machine.

You can also take the optics off the door and chassis and put them back to back with a piece of electrical tape to simulate the door closed…

[a69mopar]

I would disconnect the coin comparator and reels, then power up to see if the display comes up. the blown fuse, faint display and no display point in the direction of these or the display itself. also carefully check the wiring to these.

Thanks,
Wayne

[jonbbrew]

If you think it was dropped the optics could easily be out of alignment or one price may have actually fell off.
One set is on the door, the other is on the chassis.
They need to match up when the door is closed.

You can see if the emitter works by using a cell phone camera.
You can’t see it with a naked eye but a camera will show it as a slight flashing.
The receiver you can’t test the same way as it accepts light not emits it.

If you’re not getting anything get yourself some new optics.
Glass is irrelevant but get yourself a candle or steal it off your other machine.

You can also take the optics off the door and chassis and put them back to back with a piece of electrical tape to simulate the door closed…

Yeah i thought i tried to test the optics before but could never really get the camera trick to work even on working machine, but i can try again. But even if optics are not working or noticing door closing, wouldnt the display still show something?

[jay]

With the door open you can press the test button and various things will show up in the displays.
The slant that is working should behave the same. The door and optics are different but pretty much everything else is identical.

[jonbbrew]

With the door open you can press the test button and various things will show up in the displays.
The slant that is working should behave the same. The door and optics are different but pretty much everything else is identical.

Test button does nothing.