Author Topic: Processor board is it a S or S+? (Read 9523 times)

ControlledChaos · « **on:** November 19, 2014, 01:45:50 AM »

Hello everyone. I got home one night and what was sitting in my living room but a....slot machine? My girlfriend said I needed a Winter Project. I didn't know anything about slots so a Googling I went. I found NLG and I'm glad I did! First thing I need to know is what board is this? I think this Jokers Wild machine is 1988 vintage but not sure. I took a guess at an "S". I hope you guys can I identify the board and I'll be my new Winter project in no time! Thanks

Tilt · « **Reply #1 on:** November 19, 2014, 05:59:34 AM »

Welcome to

. That is a S slot MPU. What kind of problem are you having with the machine? There's a bunch of smart folks here that can help you get it going again.

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #2 on:** November 19, 2014, 08:41:16 PM »

Thank you Tilt for the quick reply. Tonight if I don't run out of time I'm putting in a new battery a Tadiran 3.6v lithium currently measuring 3.673vdc. I had to put a new Reset switch in and a new spade lug on the handles lockout solenoid.Everything else looked good,no blown fuses or burnt wires. The old battery only had .9vdc on it. So at this point I would like to know what startup protocol do I use and would the low battery voltage harm any chip memory? I have planned to put the battery on the MPU,put everything back in place. Turn the power switch on,close and latch the door and then apply power to the slot thru a switchable outlet strip.Anything else I need to do or change in this startup procedure? Thanks again for your help, I really like this site and have made a contribution thru paypal.

Now to put the battery in and hit the sack..

rokgpsman · « **Reply #3 on:** November 19, 2014, 08:43:41 PM »

Quote from: ControlledChaos on November 19, 2014, 01:45:50 AM

Hello everyone. I got home one night and what was sitting in my living room but a....slot machine? My girlfriend said I needed a Winter Project. .....

That gf is a keeper, I like the way she thinks!!

Tilt · « **Reply #4 on:** November 19, 2014, 09:54:51 PM »

It sounds like you've done a good job of inspecting things. The low battery voltage will not damage the CMOS RAM memory, but it will lose the data it was storing. After you reassemble everything you can power it up with the internal power switch and the door open. You will probably get a 61 error code displayed in the winner paid display. If so, then press and hold the self test button for two seconds, it should advance to 61 1, then close the door and turn the jackpot reset key switch. This will initialize the machine and it should come up and be ready for you to put some coins in. If you run into problems or have other error codes displayed post back here and we'll help you with them. The new battery will last another 10 years or so, you won't have to worry about changing it again for a long long time.

Thanks for the contribution, it's what helps keep this place here. Hope you enjoy your machine, watch out, before you know it there will be another one next to it, and then another, and another.....

Edited to add: Not sure if S machines advance to 61-1 or not after pressing the self test button, S+ machines do. It may not, I can't remember and the manual doesn't say anything about it. If it doesn't, just close the door and see if it's ready to play.

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #5 on:** November 21, 2014, 10:23:30 PM »

Bummer! Well I did what you said but the only thing that happened was the service light and florescent front lights came on and the reels locked tight but the self test light for 2 seconds and reset switch didn't do anything. I didn't see a door optics or interlock. So are their any test points I can try for voltage without taking the MPU out? Thanks.
I went ahead a took the MPU out and started checking the header for the right voltages. I think I'm getting close. I had 8vac which would give the stepper motors low level power. They made some noise and went stiff. I did not have 24vac. Measuring at J4 pins 9 and 5 gave me 1 volt. This is where I gotta sleep but I think its either the fuse holder or the xfmr taps. More to come...

Tilt · « **Reply #6 on:** November 22, 2014, 12:58:16 PM »

You're making progress. S machines don't have optics, but they do have a door switch, check out the photo. You can pull the plunger out on the switch and the machine will think the door is closed. That's not your problem though, the missing 24VAC is. I pulled my F1 fuse and it acts like yours, lights, stiff reels, but no displays. It should be easy to trace down the fault, nothing but a fuse/holder wiring, and a transformer.

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #7 on:** November 22, 2014, 05:26:31 PM »

Today I'm getting confused. Tried the startup again ,same symptoms .So got to checking the voltage at 24vac fuse. Both wires on the fuse holder measure 13vac to ground but 26vac when I touch the 24vac return at xfmr lug 8. I then tried J4 to measure 24vac at pins 5,7 (24vac return) and pins 9,11 (24vac Hot) but only read 3 vac between them. The door switch feels like its making/breaking contact and the only wires at the door latch are a 2 header female with 1 wire blk/pur and the other one green. So I'm not sure where I'm losing voltage at or if 13vac to gnd is correct. Some of the wiring had some pretty bad kinks in it. I have cut the ty-wraps and will rewrap them at a later date, looking for broken wire. So far I can't find anything wrong. Any suggestions..and Thanks!!

Tilt · « **Reply #8 on:** November 22, 2014, 06:07:00 PM »

The 13VAC in reference to GND is correct. The 24VAC is center-tapped and the center tap is grounded, so you will read 13VAC on the hot and return in reference to ground. From the hot (transformer lug 6) to the return (transformer lug 8 ) you should measure 24VAC. With the power off, check for continuity between transformer lug 8 and J4 pins 9 & 11, it should read 0 ohms. If so , you know the 24VAC hot is good, and the fuse/holder is good as well. Next check center tap transformer lug 7 to J4 pins 1,2,3,4,6. Lastly check the 24VAC return transformer lug 8 to J4 pin 5 & 7 All of them should read 0 ohms.

The door switch isn't safety interlock, it's a logic switch for the processor. Opening and closing it will not effect your 24VAC going to the processor board at J4.

Edited to change lug

to lug 8

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #9 on:** November 22, 2014, 08:24:00 PM »

Thanks again Tilt, I'm on it after dinner and I'm a night owl anyway so into Sunday morning I go. Apprieciate your continued help!

rokgpsman · « **Reply #10 on:** November 22, 2014, 09:54:13 PM »

Maybe not an immediate problem, but it looks like your coin comparitor is missing the sample coin (a quarter or quarter token). Your comparitor isn't the same one I have but it doesn't look like there is a coin in yours. I think this can cause a tilt or error on some machines that sense if a sample coin is not in the machine.

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #11 on:** November 23, 2014, 06:40:21 AM »

Thanks! Here a pic of mine.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #12 on:** November 23, 2014, 07:37:47 AM »

Was there a coin in it in your earlier picture of the door and I missed it?

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #13 on:** November 23, 2014, 08:02:30 AM »

Hey Tilt, ya maybe a little. Here's my before and after pics.Thanks for your guys help. I've been in electronics a long time it is nice to explore another avenue and have help along the way.

Tilt · « **Reply #14 on:** November 24, 2014, 06:20:37 AM »

Were you able to figure out the problem with the missing 24VAC?

65ImpalaSS · « **Reply #15 on:** November 24, 2014, 01:32:27 PM »

That game is very similar to the S game I just got a couple of months ago. All mine needed was a new battery and a quarter in the comparitor.

Good luck getting your machine up and running.

Jeff

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #16 on:** November 24, 2014, 04:39:46 PM »

Thanks for the reply guys. My work schedule has gotten busy but I did find a broken grn/wht wire in one of the wiring harness. I fixed it but it made no difference. I do have Tilt's instructions posted right on the machine and will follow the xfmer continuity loop first chance I get. If I don't get back right away you guys have a Happy Thanksgiving!

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #17 on:** December 10, 2014, 11:40:55 PM »

Hi all. This is my 4th post to see if this makes it the screen. I have tried to upload a pic some and a description but when I click 'Post' the screen goes white and thats all I ever see until I turn off the browser and restart the mac. When I go back to the post, to see if it was posted, it wasn't. So I'll stop right here, attach no pic, hit 'Post' and see if just text will post...later

kb8yrw · « **Reply #18 on:** December 11, 2014, 04:43:12 PM »

I bought a Double diamond s+ last weekend and it was doing exactly the same thing you are describing. Even the strange or missing 24v. I found a few quarters under the MB and once they were out it seemed to measure normally. It never blew a fuse. Even when I got the 24v all it would do it light up the door lights no error codes reset did nothing. Someone on the board here suggested it may need a clear. I did not have a clear chip but I did have another SS chip that came with the game. I put the chip in booted it up and got an error code 61 hit the reset got a ding then a 61.1. I closed the door hit the reset key and the display went blank for about 5 seconds. Then the game came to life and the reel spun up. The game has been working perfectly for the last week. Not being one to leave things alone I put the original chip back in. Went through the reset procedure with the 61 codes and it still works perfectly. So maybe all yours needs is a clear. Maybe taking the chip out cleared mine. I'm a total noob but like you have an electronics background. These guys on here will get you going.

ControlledChaos · « **Reply #19 on:** December 11, 2014, 11:36:09 PM »

Thanks for the added info. I have checked the board for quarters and shorts and cleaned it thoroughly with contact cleaner. As for chips, that seems far away yet.Here's a pic of main board showing all chips that can be swapped out for others.I know nothing of what reel and set chips I would need.It's interesting to delve into new electronics projects and once my work slows down I should be able to devote time back here.

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Author Topic: Processor board is it a S or S+? (Read 9523 times)