Author Topic: Help with a Bally 5-reel E-2000 slot (Read 24927 times)

fixinstuff · « **Reply #20 on:** January 06, 2015, 10:56:43 PM »

dhellis, thanks for helping so late tonight. Actually my user id should be "tryingtofix stuff"

The supply voltages read +5=4.88, ZC=6.99, and UR=9.44. I'll check tomorrow and post results. Something went wrong because #5 test worked a couple days ago and all reels wore OK. The display showed the correct symbols/positions. No I only get 00000 in the display. You might not have read all of my posts on this slot. It was not working at all when I got it. I've cleaned the connections and repaired/checked the ribbon cables. It does concern me that the door open buzzer is always on.

knagl · « **Reply #21 on:** January 06, 2015, 11:58:23 PM »

Quote from: Amechanic on January 06, 2015, 10:19:52 PM

I just sent a message to the moderator to list this under the Bally E2000 section.

I guess I'm not seeing the Bally E2000 section. As far as I can tell this topic is already in the correct place, the Bally Reel Games category. If you think that it belongs somewhere else, please let me know...

I did re-name the title of the first post to include mention of the fact that it's an E-2000 machine.

dhellis · « **Reply #22 on:** January 07, 2015, 12:13:47 AM »

The board states Bally Reel games and lists the 1000 and 2000 machines so I also believe that it is in
the correct place. Thanks for changing the first post name, that should get the rest of the Bally E experts
to notice.

GOS · « **Reply #23 on:** January 07, 2015, 04:44:53 AM »

If you scroll back to my post - I indicated that the problem is the IO BOARD or contol board - obviously - my answer was not acceptable. Why can't you accept the right answer?

GOS · « **Reply #24 on:** January 07, 2015, 04:45:55 AM »

Quote from: GOS on January 03, 2015, 01:57:04 PM

do a 5 test - most likely it will come up all zeroes - bad io board - reader control board.

CORRECT ANSWER!!! applause!!!!! thank you very much.

Amechanic · « **Reply #25 on:** January 07, 2015, 08:03:43 AM »

Quote from: GOS on January 07, 2015, 04:45:55 AM

Quote from: GOS on January 03, 2015, 01:57:04 PM
do a 5 test - most likely it will come up all zeroes - bad io board - reader control board.
CORRECT ANSWER!!! applause!!!!! thank you very much.

Yes.. Yes you did..

At that time I do believe the person said the win meter was showing different numbers for the different reel symbols.. Sounds like its time to regroup and look at all the information we now have..
Question.. Would the machine operate correctly in test 8, if the IO had a problem?

Gary

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #26 on:** January 07, 2015, 09:05:59 AM »

Not sure if this effects anything, but OP mentions the door buzzer does not turn off when the door is closed. The switch behind the door hinge needs adjusted or replaced or wires are not connected properly.

ramegoom · « **Reply #27 on:** January 07, 2015, 09:16:17 AM »

^^ What Sunrise said. Also, there is a short pigtail on one of the IO board connectors, with a fork terminal, connected to the ground.

You should cut that wire. Once you do, the machine will function with the door open, for testing purposes. I think that wire was part of a circuit that was necessary to appease the gaming commission. Cutting it disables the feature.

GOS · « **Reply #28 on:** January 07, 2015, 10:25:15 AM »

machine is NOT READING READERS so the machine will not run - 8 test is allows game to run with door open - you need to fix the reader problem - otherwise you are just wasting time.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #29 on:** January 07, 2015, 11:24:35 AM »

Well, I learned one thing...at least...to make sure the post thread is named correctly! Happy to hear from all of you.

To be clear, couple days ago, the reel readers were working and display showed all symbols/positions correctly. Test #8 (with door open) works as far as it accepts coins and lets the handle pull, reels spin and index (stop in correct order)...I've never hit a win during test #8 so there is no indication that the readers are working during test#8. What I'm going to do today is trace voltages...I'm still hoping it's just connection problem somewhere. And GOS is probably right...the I/O or reel board could have gone bad since I've been messing with the connections. The info from dhellis will help me. To address the other comments: I've checked the door hinge and the switch is OK, and it will cause the machine to reset when the door is closed, so I think it is adjusted OK. Be back later, thanks

fixinstuff · « **Reply #30 on:** January 07, 2015, 04:11:57 PM »

OK. dhellis, do I connect the 5v directly to one of the reel reader boards? and connect the 3ohm also to the same reel reader board? Should I remove the reel mech (disconnect the two molex connectors?) I guess I should remove the reels to better get to the readers? Does it make any difference which reader gets the 5v and resister?

dhellis · « **Reply #31 on:** January 07, 2015, 04:29:45 PM »

The reel readers should be removed from the machine and tested individually.

Connect 5 volts to pin 16 (positive) and pin 14 (ground)

The 3,000 ohm resistor is connected to pin 11 and pin 14, this will turn on all of the IR Emitters. A voltage reading
of around 3 volts should be at pins 1,3,5,7 and 9. If those readings are not there then the likely cause is the
small transistor that is also located on the reel reader board

**** Added info ****
If you split the cards you can see that the IR emitters are lit if you view them with a digital camera. This works
best in a low light area

fixinstuff · « **Reply #32 on:** January 07, 2015, 08:18:33 PM »

wow, this is a slot with some serious problems!! I tested each of the reel readers and they are all OK. I only had a 3.4K res and a cheap ac adapter (5vdc). But they all tested out OK, all leds were between 2.5 and 3.5vdc. Most were pretty close to 3vdc. Well then I put it all back together and sure enough test #5 still shows 0000. And now #8 test won't release the handle. I hate to quit, but ...
Well, no I won't give up yet. The handle release sol is pulsed in #2. If I leave the inside on/off switch ON, then shut the door and lock it, then plug it into 110, the slot goes through some sort of initial auto testing, displays 000017, 000018, etc and then says insert coin. It accepts coins, but can't pull handle. Test #8 (with door open) displays insert coin and accepts coin, but NOW can't pull handle. Maybe back to GOS's advice...I/O or reel mech board! BTW, there are 2 key switches on the handle side: one above the handle and one below the handle...what are they for? the top one doesn't seem to do anything, the bottom one sometimes will reset the slot.

dhellis, I haven't checked the I/O board yet...I need to go back to the schematics I guess.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #33 on:** January 07, 2015, 08:35:55 PM »

May want to double check the pins on the ribbon cables and the items that were reseated and check for a bent pin?

fixinstuff · « **Reply #34 on:** January 07, 2015, 08:47:53 PM »

I will.....tomorrow. Thanks PS: I have some ribbon connectors so I might replace all the original connectors. Can't hurt , the new connectors have better pins. This may be silly, but am I right that the red "key" on the ribbon goes to pin 1 on both ends, and that pin 1 on the board connector is the corner that is angled ? Sometimes there is a white spot marked on the board to indicate pin 1...right? The white dots that I can see all match the angle corner on the female connectors.

Amechanic · « **Reply #35 on:** January 07, 2015, 08:49:12 PM »

I think what I might do is pull all the boards and send them to dhellis to have him check them on his board tester.
I know you said that you checked fuses, but did you pull the fuse holders and inspect them? I have found a lot of those old fuse holder cracked, or they are just in poor condition. I resently bought two machines. The one that powered on but that was about it. I opened it up and got to looking around I found duct tape every where. Holding the power supply board plug in place and you couldn't see the fuses due to duct tape holding the caps on. Once I went through the basic wiring problems including a shredded cord the machine came to life. Have you looked around and under things for loose change? I have found money behind IO and MPU boards as well as under the transformer and in behind the hopper boards.

I'm sure that these are not your problems, but just some I've found. I alway start from the plug and work my self inside. It can save you headaches later on..

So I'm thinking if you don't see any other bad plug connections any where, then I would get the boards tested to eliminate them.

Gary

Amechanic · « **Reply #36 on:** January 07, 2015, 09:03:51 PM »

I just looked at one of my machines. The ribbon cable between the IO & MPU doesn't have the red edge. Mine has a white dot or arrow. The mark on my MPU ribbon cable is towards the back right side and looks like its on the top of the plug. The IO end is again on the right end of the plug on the bottom.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #37 on:** January 07, 2015, 09:23:09 PM »

Amechanic, I'll check both boards to make sure the ribbon cables are correct. I've been thinking that I should replace the connection on the power supply too. It does have a burned contact on the female connector. The pins look OK, but I haven't been able to clean that burned contact. It is pin #9. I'll also take out the fuse board so as to check it better. Thanks
Oh, and I agree that I probably will end up sending dhellis the boards.

Amechanic · « **Reply #38 on:** January 07, 2015, 09:43:34 PM »

That burnt pin could be a big problem. Those plugs use the connector that only contacts the pin on one side.. Very bad design and not meant to last 35+ years I'm guessing. Did you remove the power supply board and check that pin headers solder joints for cracks? That's another problem with these power supply's.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #39 on:** January 07, 2015, 10:10:06 PM »

yea, I had the PS out and didn't find anything bad on the board itself. But the voltages at the test points are a little low so the PS is getting weak. I'll check and fix that bad contact tomorrow. #9 looks like an output so if I should be able to test continuity at the fuse block. Don't know why I haven't checked it before...or, wait...maybe I did?

At my age...anything can happen. :>)

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Author Topic: Help with a Bally 5-reel E-2000 slot (Read 24927 times)