Author Topic: Help with a Bally 5-reel E-2000 slot (Read 24931 times)

fixinstuff · « **Reply #40 on:** January 07, 2015, 11:24:53 PM »

BTW, the MPU has NO battery. Does it need one?

dhellis · « **Reply #41 on:** January 07, 2015, 11:31:18 PM »

The battery is not really needed, it only maintains data in memory and that data consists mostly of
accounting stuff the casinos and gaming commission needed.

Amechanic · « **Reply #42 on:** January 07, 2015, 11:46:22 PM »

From my understanding no it doesn't. It was used for holding the book keeping information and had nothing to do with game play. If you do install one, it was a Ni-cad 3.6V AA.. You can install a lithium but only if you do a small Mod to the MPU to disable the charging circuit. You can get that information from dhellis.. He can also give you a few places on the MPU to check for bad solder joints due to the chips heating up.

Gary

dhellis · « **Reply #43 on:** January 08, 2015, 12:03:11 AM »

Well since Gary mentioned it I might as well post it so others will know. If you are going to use a lithium or other
non-rechargable battery then you need to remove 1 resistor and replace it with a diode such as a 1N4001. The resistor
is R56 on an E2000 board or R1 on the small ram board used on the E1000. The band on the diode should face away
from the battery.

Where I have found most bad connections is under the devices that generate the most heat. These would be the 8T28
chips U7 and U8 on an E1000 or U5 and U6 on the E2000, the bipolar proms U21,U25 and U26 on the E1000 U8, U17 and
U19 on the E2000 also the MPU chip

Amechanic · « **Reply #44 on:** January 08, 2015, 01:29:08 AM »

Quote from: dhellis on January 08, 2015, 12:03:11 AM

Well since Gary mentioned it I might as well post it so others will know. If you are going to use a lithium or other
non-rechargable battery then you need to remove 1 resistor and replace it with a diode such as a 1N4001. The resistor
is R56 on an E2000 board or R1 on the small ram board used on the E1000. The band on the diode should face away
from the battery.

Where I have found most bad connections is under the devices that generate the most heat. These would be the 8T28
chips U7 and U8 on an E1000 or U5 and U6 on the E2000, the bipolar proms U21,U25 and U26 on the E1000 U8, U17 and
U19 on the E2000 also the MPU chip

I need to print this out, write it down, or get it tattooed so I don't have to keep asking you this...

fixinstuff · « **Reply #45 on:** January 08, 2015, 10:08:14 AM »

Good morning to all that are trying to help me. Well, I feel better today. In the middle of the night it came to me that maybe I hooked up the kick/arm wires wrong after checking the reel readers. Soooo, I got up and sure enough one wire was wrong. Now i'm back to where I was. #8 test now will spin the reels and index the reels. All other tests are the same except #5 still gives 0000. Today I'll check ribbon connections and check some more with the PS connection. I'll also remove the MPU and I/O boards to check for cold solder joints. PS: in the meantime, are there any write-ups on how to change the reel strips. My strips don't line up with the paylines like they should. Anyway, Thanks for not giving up on me.

Amechanic · « **Reply #46 on:** January 08, 2015, 10:56:36 AM »

Good morning... See your not going crazy..

Donner or GOS would be the best to help with the reel strips, but I would work one getting operating before that. You could check the screws that hold the reel tins to the hubs and the indexing cam screws. If those are loose, then the reels won't line up. The strip are just crimped to the reel tins. They do and will come loose and more over the years.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #47 on:** January 09, 2015, 03:38:11 PM »

Hey I'm back. Sorry for being so slow...just old. Well, I cleaned up the PS and fuse block and connections there seem to be OK. The ribbon cable from the MPU to the I/O board has good pins and coninuity. But I have a question and maybe a problem. I'm assuming that the red side of the cable should go to #1 pin jacks on both boards? The way the ends are installed on the cable, I can't connect it correctly. If anyone has an original Bally flat cable, can you verify whether the ends on installed on the same side of the cable OR are the ends on opposite sides. My cable has ends that don't match which makes me think they have been repaired at some point and maybe the ends are not correctly installed. Does this question make sense? If not let me know. John

ramegoom · « **Reply #48 on:** January 09, 2015, 04:18:55 PM »

This might help:

fixinstuff · « **Reply #49 on:** January 09, 2015, 04:45:48 PM »

It sure does help...Thanks.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #50 on:** January 10, 2015, 04:08:28 PM »

well. After more tinkering, maybe I have found the problem. The ribbon cables have different ends and the ends don't match. I know, I'm probably wrong and I can't believe the connectors are made diferent, but I can't match the wires on the I/O and MPU boards with the ribbon. Also the cable from the display board to the "credit display" has mis-matched ends. I'm posting pics : The black connectors are the original and they were put on just like you would computer cables (the key triangle pointing in the same direction as in the pic) The blue connector is what I got to replace the black one and notice that the rows are shifted differently which changes the pin connections. If the blue connections should work, what am I missing? So...who sells the correct ends? Thanks

ramegoom · « **Reply #51 on:** January 10, 2015, 04:35:27 PM »

Best bet is to check it with an ohmmeter. All pins must match equal numbers, 1 thru 16 from one end to the other. It might be deceiving looking at the cable, but the red stripe is always pin No. 1.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #52 on:** January 10, 2015, 04:47:44 PM »

Thats how I found the problem. with the ohm meter. The red wire goes to different pins on the blue and black plugs. I can probably find the right plugs at digikey or mouser. But wanted to support anyone on nlg that might be selling them. I know one vender is selling complete cables, but I read someplace that the pins are too short to make good connections. Maybe I'll get this slot going next week

ramegoom · « **Reply #53 on:** January 11, 2015, 08:33:13 AM »

Those 16 pin ribbon jumpers are available at Digikey. Length is not critical, so if they're too long, no problem.

Or, foxslots has it on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-SLOT-MACHINE-E-SERIES-RIBBON-CABLE-/350123645320?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5184fed988

fixinstuff · « **Reply #54 on:** January 16, 2015, 03:21:12 PM »

Hey, to all the good folks helping me thanks, and hello again.

I've been gone, but am now back to the slot. And, hey GOS, if I had just followed your advise and replaced the reel control board, the slot might be fixed today. But....it had other problems so I kept looking at everything. So....here is where I am today. I re-read all the posts and double checked everything again. Voltages at PS: +5_=4.88, ZC=7.0, and +UR=9.36. at the I/O 4.9, and at the reel readers and reel control board 4.8. I have all the ribbon cables fixed and correct. (I still find it hard to believe that my first connectors were configured wrong!) I checked the reel readers (out of the reel basket ) using dhellis's method and they all checked OK. Then, I also checked them in the slot with power on....well....#1 LEDs lit up good (I used an IR detector card that I use for testing remote controls). But the other 4 reader boards DID NOT light up. So...I took them all out and tested (with power) each one in position #1 and they all lit up good in that position. So, GOS, I guess that means "replace the reel control board"...right? I checked everything on the board except the 3 ICs. I might just replace them if I can find them locally. I looked around and didn't find any boards for sale. And, dhellis, if I can't repair it, I will PM you about sending it to you. I'm not sure I can find the exact replacement ICs. PS: I have no idea at this point why test #5 worked so well a few days ago.

GOS · « **Reply #55 on:** January 16, 2015, 03:24:04 PM »

if the readers are not lighting - then check the connections to the readers. the contacts do go bad.

dhellis · « **Reply #56 on:** January 16, 2015, 03:49:53 PM »

GOS is right on the money, the connectors for these reel readers do go bad, or maybe just a broken wire on pin
pairs 15/16 and 13/14

fixinstuff · « **Reply #57 on:** January 16, 2015, 03:57:47 PM »

Hi GOS and dhellis. I did check those connections (J2 and J1) on the control board and the connection on each reel reader. Also checked the two large (red and white) MOLEX connections on the reel basket and they all are OK.
Also, as suggested, I checked the arm/kick wires all the way back to the I/O board. dhellis, what part numbers do you use for the ICs on the reel control board?

dhellis · « **Reply #58 on:** January 16, 2015, 04:06:51 PM »

I use the 7417, ~~74146~~ 74145 (fat fingers) and rather than using the 74C14 I use a CD40106.

Don't use a 74S or 74LS14, they won't work, a 74C14 (CMOS) or the CMOS CD40106 have the
faster switching times needed to read the codes.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #59 on:** January 16, 2015, 04:40:58 PM »

Good. Thanks, dhellis. Do you routinely replace all 3? I don't have any way of checking each IC.

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Author Topic: Help with a Bally 5-reel E-2000 slot (Read 24931 times)