Author Topic: e2000 Bally slot will not play or cash out credits (Read 16262 times)

fixinstuff · « **Reply #20 on:** February 10, 2015, 10:31:38 AM »

Amechanic. Yes, thanks, I have good ribbon cables. For the strips, I know the strips are wrong because the index wheels have 25 stops and the strips have 24 positions. The strips are beautiful, nice plastic, sharp symbols. But they must be after-market...Bally would never produce these. The symbols are not spaced evenly around the reel! The payouts are ok, it's just that the symbols don't line up exactly on the paylines. The symbols are correct for the game and match the payouts on the payout glass. But getting the strip numbers to dhellis is a good idea...maybe he will know where to get new strips with 25 positions.
The reel strips are correct...see later posts in this topic.

Amechanic · « **Reply #21 on:** February 10, 2015, 10:48:56 AM »

Finding new or even good used strips is almost impossible.. You have to remember these machines were built in the 1980's. it's like tring to find once new strip for the newer S2000 slots. Once you give dhillis the strip numbers he might be able to give you the disk number needed for those strips?? They do have a number stamped on them.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #22 on:** February 10, 2015, 11:48:32 AM »

I need to do a lot of more study about the reel strips. I'll have to wait until I get the boards back from dhellis so I can get the machine working. Then I can "map" the index wheels using test #5 to see what the CPU is seeing at each index wheel stop. Maybe Bally did make the strips!

Maybe the strips just need to be adjusted around the reels. If the symbols would line up good on the paylines, it wouldn't be so confusing looking. I did find a place that makes strips to order. But I haven't talked to them yet. I think I should start a new topic on this reel strip problem...if indeed it is a problem when I get the slot working. This topic probably should just be about the "playing/cashing out credits problem". And hopefully dhellis will find that fix. Thanks, amechanic, I'll be in touch later. PS: to amechanic: I don't have the strip numbers yet. The strip ends are glued and I don't want to ruin them if they don't need replacing.

Amechanic · « **Reply #23 on:** February 10, 2015, 02:53:41 PM »

The reel strips are usually put together with a double sided tape. It sounds like your strips are just turned in the reel runs. Sometimes you can loosen the mounting screws on the reel tins to the hub, oor the 4 screws in the indexing disk and rotate your symbols that way just a bit.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #24 on:** February 17, 2015, 09:45:32 AM »

In case anyone is reading this topic and concerned about the reel strips, I was WRONG about the reel strips. The index wheels have 25 stops and the strips DO also have 25 positions. Positions 24 and 25 are consecutive blanks (and I was counting the 2 blanks as only 1 blank). So I'm pretty sure the strips are correct to the game...they match the glass and wins are correct. The strips just need to be adjusted on the reels a little so they line up better with the paylines on the glass. They are off about 3/8 inch which makes wins a little odd looking. PS: amechanic. I didn't get the reel strip numbers to dhellis, they are really tight in the reels, but strips are probably correct anyway. I did try to adjust with both index screws and reel screws, but couldn't get enough movement to help. I can live with the symbols being off and maybe someday when I get more brave, I'll try to loosen a strip and move it a little in the reel. See ya'all later when I get the boards back and get this slot finished. At that time I'll try to wrap up the fixes for this E2000.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #25 on:** February 27, 2015, 06:18:29 PM »

OK. Slot is now working. I adjusted the reel strips so they line up with the Paylines. So now back to the topic of this post. The slot pays off in credits. You can play the credits, or cash-out the credits, or use coins and let the credits accumulate. First question, anyone know how to set it to pay in coins? (in other words, how do you turn off the credit feature?) 2nd question: Actually a problem: Now the credit LED isn't lighting up. I've checked all the ribbon cables and connections. The game works correctly...wins, payouts, cash-outs, winner paid display, all manual tests are OK. But the credit display doesn't light up. Once in awhile when I was disconnecting/connecting things (cables, hopper, reel basket, etc) (always with power off) I would get something displayed like a dash...once a 9 when I powered it back up. I guess I need some help in trouble-shooting the credit display. So that's my last 2 projects on this machine.

Amechanic · « **Reply #26 on:** February 27, 2015, 09:23:46 PM »

Is your credit meter similar to the payout win meter? Is it in a ribbon cable? Is it attached to a different board? Pictures might help.. If its drawing power from a top box board it possible it's just a bad connection or a cap of the board?? I'm just guessing and thinking off the top of my head..

Gary

fixinstuff · « **Reply #27 on:** February 27, 2015, 09:46:48 PM »

Amechanic: Hi. Good to talk with you again. Yes the credit display is like the Win display. LEDs with 16 conductor flat ribbon cable. There is a credit display driver board in the top box. I've checked and re-checked the ribbon cables...I think they are OK. What pics should I attach?
Some additional info on the problem. I still have the IO board from "ramegoom". So I swapped the IO boards. To rehash:
1. With my repaired IO board, everything works, but I have no credit display (but the credit feature works) There's just no display.

2. With ramegoom's IO board, the credit display lights up (zero to start with and accumulates credits with wins). But I can't play the credits or cash them out.

So I think this shows that the LEDs are OK. And probably shows that the display driver board is OK...but I don't know for sure.
jpduffy, is this game the same as your's? I tried the DIP switch setting you gave me (all on except 2 off) but it didn't help.
Again to refresh, it is an e2000 machine (E2304-16) 3 line 5 reel. Thanks

fixinstuff · « **Reply #28 on:** February 27, 2015, 10:05:11 PM »

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4444.0;attach=11321;image
The credit display driver board:
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4444.0;attach=11030;image
showing lights
http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5232.0;attach=12445;image

Amechanic · « **Reply #29 on:** February 27, 2015, 10:43:00 PM »

Ok so the credit meter works with ramegoom's IO but not your, but with your repaired IO, the game operated with the exception of no credit meter lighting up.. Double check the IO boards to see if they are the same board numbers. I know that dhellis to me a while back that there are jumper settingS on the IO that are for use with 5 and possible 4 reel machines only. When you sent in your MPU & IO for repair, did dhellis know your was for or from a 5 reel machine? I'm just thinking you could have a jumper setting that's not correct?? Compare the two IO's to see if they are the same, or better yet contact Dan, (dhellis) and ask him about the jumper setting for your 5 reeler.. Hopefully it's that simple..

Gary

fixinstuff · « **Reply #30 on:** February 27, 2015, 11:30:54 PM »

sunrise, I got your posts mixed up with jpduffy. You gave me the settings for the DIP switches and I tried the settings with the new repaired board. But it didn't help the present problem and didn't make any difference. Is your game the same as mine? 3 paylines and 5 reels? Do you know how to switch payouts from coins to credits and from credits to coins? Thanks, John
amechanic, Well the boards are the same, but not the same. My repaired board is: P-2948-303, AS-2980-5600
eramegoom's board is: P-2948-303, AS-2980-5600 4.80
I assume the 4.80 indicates a revision? (but we know about assuming, right)
I'll contact dhellis.

Amechanic · « **Reply #31 on:** February 27, 2015, 11:39:44 PM »

I had to go look at a board for those jumpers.. They are S1 & S2, then S3 gives you two options for on side of a ceramic capacitor? Them S4 & S5 are just a metal jumper wire.. Maybe sunrise can chime in on the IO board and setting from his machine..

fixinstuff · « **Reply #32 on:** February 28, 2015, 12:19:39 AM »

Comparing the boards, they are the same boards. Same jumper wires. I can't find S3 on either board? Tomorrow I'll use an ohm meter and compare the boards. Maybe a bad solder joint on my board somewhere...can't see anything bad so will use the meter. By comparing the too boards, I should be able to find some difference that might be the problem. We'll see. Back tomorrow. Got to get some sleep now. Strange...eramegoom's board displays credits but won't let you use them. My board lets me use the credits, but won't display them...strange. John

Amechanic · « **Reply #33 on:** February 28, 2015, 11:45:44 AM »

Ok take 2.. First try failed to post?? I took some pictures of the IO jumper setting mentioned. I hope they are not too fuzzy, I used my cell phones camera..

Gary

fixinstuff · « **Reply #34 on:** February 28, 2015, 12:37:57 PM »

Amechanic. Thanks for the images. I can see them fine. On my boards (the loaner and my repaired one) the jumpers are a litle different than yours. I see the S3 now and all three boards have the same S3 and it is some sort of a coil inductor. S1 and S5 are empty on all 3 boards. I don't know what that is on your board for S2 and S4. My boards have wire for S2 and S4. Your boards might have diodes or capacitors for S2 and S4? But since both of my boards are the same, I doubt that the wire jumpers vs your jumpers is causing my credit display problem. I have heard from dhellis yet.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #35 on:** February 28, 2015, 01:01:38 PM »

The parts called S2 and S4 are shunts, they act the same as a jumper. It is just a wire put inside a resistor body so that the part can be auto-inserted into the circuit board by a machine at the factory. Saves time over having a human solder in the jumper by hand. You can think of it as a straight piece of wire. You can recognize it due to the single black band around the mid section. A black band means zero on the resistor color code, indicating a 0 ohm resistor, aka a jumper or shunt.

I think you are mistaking S3 for the inductor coil L1. S3 is a place for a jumper/shunt just below the inductor coil L1. It looks like S3 is not installed in the photo. The board notation for L1 inductor coil is just to the right of the inductor. In the photo I think we can't see the left side pad of S3 because the capacitor C36 is in the way.

fixinstuff · « **Reply #36 on:** February 28, 2015, 03:09:49 PM »

Thanks rokgpsman. I didn't know any of that before. And you're right about the L1 and L2 also. S3 could be a trace on the back side of the PCB. The trace connects one side of L1 to the through-hole on the top side and then a trace connects to +input voltage. And both of my boards have the same circuit. So I'm thinking that the jumpers are not causing the "no credit display" problem. I'll keep comparing component resistance between my two boards and maybe I'll find something that way.

Sunrise Side · « **Reply #37 on:** February 28, 2015, 08:11:51 PM »

My machine is down the road and i will take a look at it tomorrow. It is a 3 reel 5 coin single line. Dan did say there is two types of I/O's.

Paul · « **Reply #38 on:** March 01, 2015, 03:37:19 PM »

I have a credit machine also and here is the jumpers on the I/O

Paul · « **Reply #39 on:** March 01, 2015, 03:39:22 PM »

Last ones

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Author Topic: e2000 Bally slot will not play or cash out credits (Read 16262 times)