Author Topic: IGT S+ RED,WHITE,& BLUE lost LED,s and tilt (Read 25334 times)

jim k-falls · « **on:** April 27, 2014, 05:48:48 PM »

Hi, I just got this IGT S + and before I did anything; I read lots and lots on this forum and the archives..i am more familiar with Bally E/M's , but thought I would try my luck on one of these..I almost had it running, but now im wondering what I did to get nothing on the self-test button or J.P. reset switch. Before I ever powered it up, I did the normal cleaning and coin retrieval from places they should never be..i also re-worked the 6 pin molex connector and cleaned all the connectors with crc electra-motive..i got a #12 when I first fired it up, so I changed the battery and got a 61..i remember reading about how you can screw up and get stuck in a loop, so I went back to the forum and read what to do next..i closed the door and got a 3200 before I could turn the J.P. reset key..i pulled the hopper and its fine, no jam or blocking of the optics. put it back in and powered up to see no leds or blinking candle..its like a fuse blew, but I checked them with a meter..any ideas? Thanks in advance , Jim

Stayouttadabunker · « **Reply #1 on:** April 28, 2014, 08:44:25 AM »

There's a lot of glare in your photo. I cannot see the display.

What numbers are being displayed in the LED boxes with the door closed, and then when the door is opened?

jim k-falls · « **Reply #2 on:** April 28, 2014, 10:51:16 AM »

Hi, sorry about the photo, im not getting any leds now, I was getting the 12, then after changing the battery ,I got 61 and when I closed the door it switched to 3200..i made a jumper and tested the hopper..its fine..it seems like a power issue..ill try to post some more pics..

cowboygames · « **Reply #3 on:** April 28, 2014, 04:04:16 PM »

Seems like your major issue started after the battery change. I'd be for checking the polarity on the new battery and make sure it's a good battery also.

CVslots · « **Reply #4 on:** April 28, 2014, 04:42:32 PM »

With no display I would still be looking at fuses (or fuse holders). I will check some notes when I get home...

jim k-falls · « **Reply #5 on:** April 28, 2014, 05:01:05 PM »

Thank you for the advice, I checked the battery, and its right as far as polarity and its reading 3.6..i also read and was told that the grounds on these need attention, so I cleaned all those..i have to go back to work for a hour or so, but am anxious to get back on this tonite..can anyone tell me what the open molex plugs are for..i have 2 on the door and 1 in the upper unit..im hoping it was for optional lighting or progressive feature..more pics coming..

jim k-falls · « **Reply #6 on:** April 28, 2014, 05:54:24 PM »

Heres a pic of the 2 molex plugs on the door.. and ill get a better pic of the machine on the next post..its only letting me load 1 per reply.. im going to pull the game board out and see if I can notice any obvious problems near the power input..i will have the camera ready if you need any more pics of that area..

Jim · « **Reply #7 on:** April 28, 2014, 06:59:32 PM »

it's good that you did some of those things, but if you suspect a power problem, lets go back to basics. are the reels stiff, is the denom lamp on? if no to these then the connector you cleaned is probably bad. cleaning is only half of the problem. the main reason the connector is intermittent is the pins loose their tensile strength, if you wiggle the plug and the reels get stiff ,then you have to fix that before moving forward.

Hope this helps

Jim

jim k-falls · « **Reply #8 on:** April 28, 2014, 07:08:19 PM »

I don't know what the denom light is ,but the reels are stiff when the power is on..Just for the heck of it I checked the power at the 6 pin plug and im only getting 7 volts on 1 green wire..i hope im doing this right, but setting my meter on ac volts and using the blue as neutral im not getting any readings except the 1 green wire..i guess its time to check the transformer..

Jim · « **Reply #9 on:** April 28, 2014, 07:51:36 PM »

the voltages going to that plug are ac voltages. since the reels are stiff, then we could assume the connector is good. the denom lamp is the lamp in the center of the reel glass. it operates on 6,3 vac, if it is not on the bulb could be bad. check the insert coin lamp anf the coin accepted lamp in the denom lamp socket, there is 6.3vac on the lamp as soon as power is applied. put your meter leads on each side of the circuit board contacts, you should read 6.3 vac.

one more voltage to check, on the led display board, the cap to the right of the plug will have 10-12 vdc across it. this is +VB.

Jim

jim k-falls · « **Reply #10 on:** April 28, 2014, 08:51:29 PM »

I will have to get back to you on the door volts..i took the whole enchilada power tray out to check the transformer and do a complete inspection

jim k-falls · « **Reply #11 on:** April 28, 2014, 09:26:23 PM »

Ok, heres what I found, im getting 120 volts off the front right side of transformer using white/red as neutral and both blacks..on the left front using blue as neutral im getting nothing out of the purple/blu or blu/blk..on the back left no volts..is the left side possibly dc? all my ratings on the fuses say ac and so does the comparator..24vac..or does that 15 pin molex next to the 120 input have to be connected..seems like you should be able to bench test the transformer without it, but im not sure about this..it looks like it runs the fuses , handle SW., and J.P. reset

jim k-falls · « **Reply #12 on:** April 28, 2014, 09:46:18 PM »

ok, its getting late but I re-checked everything and the back left side of transformer is dead and I am getting 8.6v on the purple/blk and blue wire... and 7.2 on the blu/blk and blue..ive got a bunch of transformers at my shop, mostly bally but I did see some I didn't recognize..hopefully 1 of them will match up...thanks again for all the help..

jim k-falls · « **Reply #13 on:** April 30, 2014, 11:05:30 PM »

I put it all back together and I must be checking the transformer wrong, because my denom lamp is reading 6.2v and my led is reading 11v, and my cc is reading 22v..yet when I check the 6 pin molex or the low voltage side of the transformer, I only got 8v on the purple and 7v on 1 of the green..i thought I read a post where blue was neutral,and each green was 12v, but if anyone knows the proper way to test , I will try that ..

Buzz · « **Reply #14 on:** April 30, 2014, 11:20:47 PM »

Jim I think on a IGT machine Green is normally ground, but I won't swear to it.

jim k-falls · « **Reply #15 on:** April 30, 2014, 11:48:53 PM »

well I think your right because there are plenty of green wires grounded to frame, but I thought I read where, that the green wires on the 6 pin molex were each 12v and thus making 24v for the cc..but I think I read so many post on the problems other members were having, I probably got it wrong..old timers disease.in fact im up way past my bedtime again, damn slots!..i hope some of the east coast experts are reading this while im sleeping, so when im drinking my coffee tomorrow, we will have some ideas on what to do next..thank you

Buzz · « **Reply #16 on:** May 01, 2014, 12:11:16 AM »

Jim I re read some of this, your talking about the 6 pin from the power supply to the mother board. I know those two green are ground. Are you sure the reels are stiff ??

Here is a fix I do to the power cord and it works. If there is a week link in a S+ it's that power cord.

Badbaud · « **Reply #17 on:** May 01, 2014, 12:59:44 AM »

When you see a 61 press and hold the test button until a 61-1 appears then close the door and turn the reset key.

That's what I have always had to do to get a game up after a battery change.

If it is a persistent 61 I run a clear chip on the board then start over as it clears any garbage in the EEPROM.

If none of the above works I replace the EEPROM, then clear, and start over.

Your problem doesn't seem to be power related.

jim k-falls · « **Reply #18 on:** May 01, 2014, 07:54:58 AM »

I wish I could get back to the 61 or any # for that matter..i got zip out of the L E D S, well I will try that soldering of the power cord after work..thanks again

Badbaud · « **Reply #19 on:** May 01, 2014, 12:51:44 PM »

Whenever I run into a machine with no displays the first thing I do is remove the 6 pin power plug from the backplane board and clean the pins.

Those KK 156 pins have a tendency to collapse inside the housing.

Remove a pin by pressing a small flat blade screwdriver into the rectangular hole to press the keeper in then pull the pin and wire out.

Clean the pin with a pink eraser until it is shiny, if burned or pitted you will have to replace that pin.

Once cleaned use a small knife blade or razor blade to spread the keeper back out then spread the pin apart so it has a tight fit back into the connector.

The end two pins (to the right) handle the most current.

It is important to clean the posts the connector fits into also.

If any of them are black and pitted the whole 6 pin header needs to be replaced. They are .156 molex headers.

Those end two wires are actually connected together via a PC trace on the back plane board.

I have encountered this trace being burned in half and not making a connection due to a short in the machine.

You can unplug the 6 pin power connector from the backplane board and with power off use a Ohm meter to make sure you have continuity between the two right most pins.

Also, the transformer on the main board does not receive 120 VAC it gets 24 VAC from the main transformer on the floor of the machine and converts that to +5 +Vb and +24 via electronics on the MPU board.

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Author Topic: IGT S+ RED,WHITE,& BLUE lost LED,s and tilt (Read 25334 times)