Author Topic: overpay problem (Read 5111 times)

DavidLee · « **Reply #20 on:** April 08, 2018, 09:45:49 PM »

Gary,

Good call on the wore out roll pin hole. Never came across that before.
Will make a note regarding constant 1 coin over.
On the spring, itâ€™s possible to cut off the connecting loop coil then bend the next coil down 90 degrees.
This will add just a bit more tension.
Another possibility would be to temporarily fill the void next to the roll pin. To see if a new spring is required.
This can be done with brass shim material or aluminum from a soda or beer can for testing.
For a permanent shim, metal from an old feeler gauge works well for special applications.
But for this situation, drill and replace would be the best thing to do as suggested.

Amechanic · « **Reply #21 on:** April 09, 2018, 03:18:55 AM »

Be careful when going larger. You still need the new hole tight enough to hold the roll pin in the linkage, then large enough on the solenoid plunger to pivot around the new pin without binding. I used two different drill bits if I remember correctly, or if worn enough just drilling the link hole out for the larger roll pin worked. You will have to check yours for wear and use your judgement.

rjpohl · « **Reply #22 on:** April 10, 2018, 05:40:34 AM »

I drilled holes out and put a small screw in place of the roll pin (double nutted screw). The screw is also long enough to allow you to hook spring to it which increased spring strength.
I set the machine to a 2, 5, 10 and 14 coin payout and ran it 20 plus times for each.
2 and 5 payouts no problems, paid out correctly every time
10 and 14 payouts were right most every time but every once in a while it would overpay 1 to 3 coins.
is this possibly a bad tooth on the 100 tooth wheel?
Thanks

Jim · « **Reply #23 on:** April 10, 2018, 08:07:05 AM »

Bob, check the condition of the white plastic assembly on the payout relay assembly (located on the back of the hopper) ,on machines having payout problems I have found this white plastic piece to be melted and deformed causing the payout relay contacts to act differently by allowing the relay to run longer than it should, because of the increased distance the contacts travel because of the increased space of the white plastic material.

it usually melts and becomes deformed due to the hopper being run for a long time, the current gets the metal hot and causes the problem.

Jim

Amechanic · « **Reply #24 on:** April 10, 2018, 09:13:33 AM »

Quote from: Jim on April 10, 2018, 08:07:05 AM

Bob, check the condition of the white plastic assembly on the payout relay assembly (located on the back of the hopper) ,on machines having payout problems I have found this white plastic piece to be melted and deformed causing the payout relay contacts to act differently by allowing the relay to run longer than it should, because of the increased distance the contacts travel because of the increased space of the white plastic material.
it usually melts and becomes deformed due to the hopper being run for a long time, the current gets the metal hot and causes the problem.
Jim

I agree with Jim.. Check the payout relay.

rjpohl · « **Reply #25 on:** April 10, 2018, 10:05:02 AM »

if this is the white piece you're talking about, I don't see anything wrong.
Bob

DavidLee · « **Reply #26 on:** April 10, 2018, 10:17:57 AM »

You had it working good before the modifications were made to the solenoid plunger and linkage?
Most of the time I go back to the last modification made. Recheck what you did to see if anything got loose or is binding.
Since the over pay amount varies from 1 to 3 coins. I wouldn't suspect the saw tooth gear, but do a visual to eliminate the possibility.

Or manually step up the unit and count the steps as the contacts move to see if they match.

Do this a few times for the 10, 14 and 18 pay.
Also check the linkage that moves the gear.

Amechanic · « **Reply #27 on:** April 10, 2018, 10:39:42 AM »

Make sure that there is no binding of the solenoid and linkage. Since you decided to use a nut and bolt or screw. Make sure no metal shaving have fallen into the payout relay.

rjpohl · « **Reply #28 on:** April 10, 2018, 11:30:05 AM »

I removed the parts to drill, the hole I drilled is slightly larger that the screw to allow for it to pivot. I jam nutted the screw to allow for it to move up and down. Don't know if this makes sense or not.
thanks
Bob

DavidLee · « **Reply #29 on:** April 10, 2018, 12:17:58 PM »

The roll pin was stationary to the linkage originally when new. The plunger has the clearance for movement.
You might need to replace the roll pin like Gary mentioned.
But in the meantime, try a shim to take up the slack between the screw and the plunger hole.

rjpohl · « **Reply #30 on:** April 11, 2018, 08:56:05 AM »

Here's where I am now.
I have no slack in the linkage connection.
I have tightened the tension on the spring (shortened it)
The plunger operate freely by hand with no binding (I did lubricate the pivot point for the ejector, it seemed tight to me.
If I run payouts and operation the coin in roller by hand the hopper stops at the right time every time.
If I run coins through the hopper I occasionally get an extra coin or a coin get stuck under roller and ejector is stuck open.
The hopper seems to coast enough for 1 or 2 coins to leave hopper if the ejector is held open, if this normal???
I'm going to try to find a stronger spring so that the ejector closes quicker.

Thanks to all of you for your help and patience!!!
Greatly appreciated.
Bob

DavidLee · « **Reply #31 on:** April 11, 2018, 12:28:13 PM »

The hopper will coast about the distance of 3 coins.

There may be a lapse between the Payout step up and the Payout relay causing the hopper to run longer.

Link to video of hopper to compare.

https://youtu.be/nBgRk7qHs2Y

RiseLikeRa · « **Reply #32 on:** April 12, 2018, 02:19:06 AM »

This was a great thread and a tricky problem to fix. I learned a lot. This forum and the people who help each other are fantastic! I have glimpsed other NLG topics and the members who frequent them seem less apt to assist one another at times.

Long live the EM forum and the guys and gals who visit it.

Ra

rjpohl · « **Reply #33 on:** April 12, 2018, 06:08:02 AM »

Party Time!!!!
I found that the lever on the ejector where it connects to the linkage for plunger was bent down, this was causing a little binding when plunger wasn engaged. I removed it and straightened it and shortened the tension spring a bit more and it paid out correctly on 20 consecutive payout.

Thanks again to all of you guys.
Bob

Amechanic · « **Reply #34 on:** April 12, 2018, 08:39:14 AM »

Great Bob. To work in these EM slots, you really need a set or two of the extension cables. Is makes is easier to see things work when they are sitting in front of you.

DavidLee · « **Reply #35 on:** April 13, 2018, 09:36:44 AM »

If you are planning to work on the em machines, extension cables do come in handy.
I made a cable out of a 25 pair phone cable, using both size beau-plugs for convenience.
Would recommend making them no less than 7 feet.
Purchased the cable at a electronic surplus for around 60 cents either by the foot or pound can remember.
Or if you have a friend that works for the phone company.

RiseLikeRa · « **Reply #36 on:** April 13, 2018, 09:41:04 AM »

David:

Those cables ain't pretty but I am sure that they work. I LOVE the way that you made essentially 2 sets in one. Smart!

Ra

Amechanic · « **Reply #37 on:** April 13, 2018, 11:24:22 AM »

I like the idea of the phone cord because itâ€™s has the outside insulator. I made mine from rolls of 18 gauge wire. Mine are all single cords, 18, 24 & 30 pins. I made two of each. You almost need two sets because some reel assemblies have two 18 or 24 pin plugs on them. They are not always an 18 and a 24 in the back. I even made a set to run the monitors from the IGT Fortune 1/PE Machines in the bench for repairs.

DavidLee · « **Reply #38 on:** April 13, 2018, 01:41:14 PM »

Thanks Ra,
No not the greatest looking. Whats great the wires are color coded.
I left the ends exposed as to monitor the solder connections for malfunction.
Nothing like working on a machine and come to find out the test equipment is faulty.
Ra, hope everything has been good for you and your machines are paying off.

RiseLikeRa · « **Reply #39 on:** April 15, 2018, 12:15:04 AM »

David please know that my comment was a compliment not a complaint. I, and my games are doing fine since my move last year. I moved FAR from the city and I don't get a lot of visitors now. As a result the slot machines dont get played as much.

I want to get 1 more, a the last game for my collection but the economic recovery has not trickled down to my address yet. More expensive bills seems to find me very easily somehow.

Stay well my friend
Ra

News:

NLG Site Navigation Menu

Author Topic: overpay problem (Read 5111 times)