Sigma SG300 - Stuck game with 117 credits, can't play or reset it

[MacGUYver]

Hello all, first time poster.  I've recently got back into my hobby, 5 years ago I used to troll this site in the shadows, lots of good info here.  I just recently fixed a couple things (generator/wood chipper), traded them, sold stuff, and ended up with some extra fun money.  So I splurged and picked up 4 broken down slots from CL, and have various parts ordered, but its the SG300 that is making me scratch my head the most atm.


Sigma SG300 (treasure tunnel):  picked it up after the previous owner said it had an error of "wires of meters", and wouldn't play anymore.  He said all he did was move it from the garage to outside, and it started acting up.  I suspect more, when I got there he was fiddling around inside of it, but here were the initial conditions:  Turned on, went through self test, rolled reels, and completed with no errors.  I'm getting nominal P door/BV closed dash marks (nothing beeped at me), and had a starting credit of 117.  All the lights work (looks really awesome in all honesty).  He was saying he bought a different hopper years ago, but it all used to work well until he moved it and got this error.  The handle is stuck in a small range of motion.


My suspicions:  I believe it all worked (his previous ads implied it, and than he changed his ads to non-working), but I think he hit the handle and/or jammed it, and tried to fix it himself.  When I started going through it, I noticed that the inside handle mechanism was incorrectly and continuously depressing the switch, so it looked like he took it apart and didn't put it back together properly.  But that's visually the only thing I've noticed that could have been wrong.


Current conditions:  The game turns on, you can reset it with the door closed but it goes back to initial conditions of 117 credits.  When you open the door, you can turn the reset and it'll take you to the diagnostics.  From there, I can access all of the settings, however I can't modify anything because of the credits still active (other than clearing the meters, which I did).  Going through several of the tests, I believe things are functioning correctly (all game settings show successful), the coin diverter is energized and "takes coins" by doesn't increment the credits.  I can't change any of the dip switches because of the credits active, and have no way to clear them that I can figure out, other than a RAM reset.  The test button doesn't do anything other than give me an error, saying I can't do that with my current security setting, but I can't modify SW2 dip 6 with credits, its a catch 22.


So the cool thing is, Sigma SG300's can do a RAM reset per the procedure.  The unfortunate thing is, I have the GAL02 chip, which restricts you from doing it the manual way (per the manual at least, and I believe it cause I've tried and it says NO!).  Apparently I can only do the reset via the Chip set, which I haven't been able to find anywhere.


So the underlying question is, can a jammed Handle cause a lock out condition?  Its no longer tripping the handle switch (put the notch in the correct location from what I can tell, but haven't disassembled it yet). Is there a more unique way of resetting the credits to 0 so I can have a change at doing a manual RAM reset, or at least have a chance at modifying dip switches?  Is there something else I should be looking for?


Occasionally, as I've left the machine on, I do get a "wires" error.  This will clear on its own mostly when I turn the reset key, sometimes its followed by a runaway hopper, another reset clears that.  The hopper seems to be set in correctly, and performs its test correctly as well, spitting out "tokens". 


Hopefully that's enough to get this party started.  I've even stumbled across a member by the name of Chris on Offer Up, small world.  I'll try to post a bunch of pictures with this as well, and any encouragement or advice will be greatly appreciated.


And just in case anyone was wondering the other 3 machines I got, I picked up a Bally e1000 series (ram chips ordered), a IGT S+ (door optics ordered, getting a 61 error so eyeballing another ram chip set, waiting for optics though to see if the manual reset will work), and an SG-50b (cosmetically in great condition, but the inside was the ugliest, dirtiest POS ever with mouse droppings on the MPU, ordered a large CAP for a hopeful PS rebuild, no output voltages at all.)

[MacGUYver]

I'm noticing no one seems to care about sigmas, but got an update anyways.  After inspecting the meters, a spider laid a large egg on the little compartment with the white wire and resistor.  After cleaning that off, no more cut wire of meters error. 


Now I'm just struggling with the 117 crrdits but locked up game.  Can't pull the handle, can't play the game or reset it, can't clear ram cause of my gal02 chip, can't change dip switches cause of my sw2 dip6 security enabled and active credits. I feel a but stuck, and a little crazy for talking to myself.


Anyone got a gal01/ gal03 for quarters?  Or a spare sg88-2 mpu for the treasure tunnel setup? Does anyone even like sigmas?

[Amechanic]

I don't think it's that they don't like then, it's just that not many people work on them.. Hard to find parts and information as your learning.. The older ones I owned had power supply problems.

[rokgpsman]

.....I'm noticing no one seems to care about sigmas, but got an update anyways.  After inspecting the meters, a spider laid a large egg on the little compartment with the white wire and resistor.  After cleaning that off, no more cut wire of meters error.....

What?? Are you saying a spider repaired a defect in the machine?   

A lot of slot machines like this are decades old. The number of people available that knows about them decreases every year, they die or are no longer online. That is true for all older models of slot machines. And there are not any new people learning about them in the casinos so it will always be a decreasing group of knowledgeable people as time goes by. There aren't very many mechanics today that work on Studebaker cars either.

If you choose to buy a machine that was made is lesser numbers like a Sigma, compared to something like an IGT S+, then of course there will less people that can support it. That means the Sigma owner will need to be more self-sufficient. There are still a few people on NLG that are familiar with Sigma machines but it was never a large number to begin with.   

Hopefully, after you worked on your machine and learned about it you can help other Sigma owners that have problems. That's how the hobby stays alive.

Here is an active NLG vendor that sometimes has Sigma machines and parts, he might have or know where to get any parts that you need:

http://newlifegames.com/nlg/index.php?topic=17612.msg93575#msg93575


 

[qbert]

Let me start by telling you I have zero sigma experience.
That being said it sounds like a play button is stuck in the on position. I would start with the microswitch in the handle since you know that one was screwed up/with already.
Check if the wires are connected correctly and confirm that the switch itself is electronically functiong properly. IE: does it pass current when depressed and have an open circuit when released. I would also confirm that for each button on the panel as well. There is probably a diagnostic that can help check button operation but I know nothing about Sigmas
Rich

[Amechanic]

Let me start by telling you I have zero sigma experience.
That being said it sounds like a play button is stuck in the on position. I would start with the microswitch in the handle since you know that one was screwed up/with already.
Check if the wires are connected correctly and confirm that the switch itself is electronically functiong properly. IE: does it pass current when depressed and have an open circuit when released. I would also confirm that for each button on the panel as well. There is probably a diagnostic that can help check button operation but I know nothing about Sigmas
Rich

  The other this that I would check would be your power supply voltages. If I remember correctly, the power supply’s may have an adjustment screw for fine tuning the voltages. Some machines if the voltages drop below a certain voltage output, the games will not operate. I would check your 5v, 12v and 24v outputs.

[MacGUYver]

I should have taken a pic of the spider nest.


I can get to the diagnostic mode when I open the door and hit the reset key.  All keys are functional.  I quickly checked voltage, but should probably recheck for more exact values.  I even removed the power lines to the handle, didn't make a difference. 


Maybe I could one by one remove the buttons and try a reset each time.

[qbert]

If the diagnostics checked the buttons as functional both pressed and unpressed then they are probably ok.
It was just a thought like I said I have no Sigma experience.

Rich

[777sizzler]

Back in the day I had many of these.  Sigma SG-300  -Mostly Yahtzee's.  Wire of meters disconnected is just that.   From my memory there are 4 meters.  You can Ohm them out and see which one is diff..  This will deff. lock the machine up as well as stuck buttons stated.  Check and re-seat all the cables/wires on the mpu tray--The rear one's are the worst and all the ribbon cables.  Back probe the mpu batt. voltage.  --(Probably ok if credits are on it?).  The meters,  If you do find one bad you can take that one loose and piggy-back to your choice of the three others to fool it for the time being.  meters are all diff. and in all types of voltages. -On various makes and models  the meters on this one are all the same.

[MacGUYver]

Rechecked voltage, all a little high, is 24v was hitting 25.4v, nit sure the tolerance.  Took cover off to toggle the adhuster, noticed a leaky cap so replaced it. Honed in adjuster to hit 24.3, 11.9, 4.8 from the mpu test points.  Anyone know tolerance range on these? Should I toggle to 5v on the dot andet 24v run a bit higher?


Either way no difference, game still stuck.


Messed with hard meters.  Took the set off the parts sg50, looked exactly the same, no difference.


Took off all wires and reseated them, no difference. Pretty sure I put them all back in the right spot hah.  Either way it's the same.


I'm starting to think if it's just the game/system chips.  Gonna remove them tomorrow. 


Good news is I fixed the igt splus!!! I'll post that story with pics later.

[MacGUYver]

Okay so what is the EEROM device?


I redid the self test just to see if I'm crazy, results:


RAM Data in stock:     OK
Program ROM:            OK
Mech. Meter Wire:      OK
Optical Coin Sensors:  OK
EEROM Device:           --
RTC Device:                OK
Common P-ROM #:    NA-82
Game P-ROM #:         S5614-02LA
Sound ROM #:            SND0001-012
Main PCB Version:    SG88M1B


Going through the Sound tests, all the sounds (1-50) work.  Going through the Diagnostics menu, I can access and perform all tests (so I assume my Common chips are what runs that, so those are good?).  I removed both sets of common and game chips, used DeoxIT (they actually looked fine imo before it anyways), still a locked out game.


Someone recommended crashing (reseting via grounding) the RAM chips, but they're soldered into the board above the common chips, to the right of the Denomination chip.  Think I could still place some metal across all the joints and clear it that way, or am I just gonna screw things up?


Basically, I think I need to either get my hands on that IC59 denomination chip to force a RAM Clear, and possibly the Game Chips.  But I just can't fathom the game chips just failing, especially when it completes the game loading sequence upon power on, and passes the self tests above.


So it takes me back to the initial problem, when the guy had problems he was getting the Wires to Meters cut.  I think it was because of the spider egg jumping the 100ohm resister.  Is it possible a coin dropped in, but wasn't recorded properly and so that's what has the game locked up?  I don't know the full game mechanics of keeping knowledge of coin drops like that, and I've reset the soft meters via the diagnostics menu.  If that's what caused it, it seems a simple RAM Clear would clean this bad boy up.


My next thought is to completely tear down this machine, all cables to all boards, clean them all with the Deoxit, and start over.


UNLESS SOMEONE HAS THE DENOMINATION CHIP (IC59)?!?!?!?!

[MacGUYver]

IT WORKS!!!


First and foremost, all credit goes to Badbaud for the trick, ie his Plan B.


In my frustration, I hounded several people on this site and other places, trying to track down anyone with a GA01-25c chip. As a recap, theres a jurisdiction restriction placed on the GA02-25c denomination chip IC59 that prevents the user doing the manual RAM clear via the reset key as stated in manual.  I felt like if I could clear RAM it'd clean up the stuck game, or I'd have a chance at toggling more dip switches.  So using the shotgun approach and just PM'ing anyone from previous posts that had knowledge of Sigma's, I got several leads and ended up at Badbaud. 


He had a board with the chip, but had issues with a bin file.  So he recommended plan B.  Generally you can remove the RAM chips from most boards, and via grouding them (placing them on conductive metal), you can erase/clear them.  Unfortunately the sg88 RAM chips are soldered in, so I didn't think of doing it cause in my simple mind I wasn't going to remove two 24 pin chips like that.  But Badbaud said just crash the RAM chips by removing the battery first, than placing a piece of tin foil across both sides of a RAM chip (one chip at a time) and holding it there for a minute.  That seemed easy enough, my only concern was if something went wrong, I'd definitely be reliant on obtaining a ga01-25c chip, since up to this point I still wasn't 100% sure if it was corrupt RAM or something else.  But ultimately, my machine didn't work, so sometimes you gotta gamble a little, right?  And also by this time, I knew that I could buy a spare board off of Badbaud if things didn't work out.


Since I'm terrible at doing simple things like holding tin foil in place, I cut out some cardboard the width of the ram chips, bent it in half and wrapped in in tin foil (see pic).  Jay the moderator called me McGyver527 in a different IGT s-plus post, so I figured I needed to carry that mindset into this fix.  Removed the battery, put the cardboard tinfoil RAM Crashers in place, and did a minute on each chip.  I definitely got nervous putting it back in, but I turned it on and it started going through the self tests.


Than I got an error.  It scared the crap out of me, because before I did this, at least I could access diagnostics and such.  It came up with a RAM data in stock error (or something like that).  I wish I would have taken a pic.  I forget if it prompted me the first time or if I just did it, but I hit the reset key, and it said hit the reset key two more times to continue (paraphrased).  After following directions, it went back to a self test mode and fully initialized.  0 credits!  blinking insert bill and insert coins.  So at least something had changed.


So with much trepidation, I popped in a coin and the magic coin accept clink sound fired off.  Prior to this, I had only heard that sound in the sound test via the diagnostic menu, so it was definitely magical.  Went through some coins, some bills, hit a bonus spin on my treasure tunnel, and cashed out.  All worked!


Now I just need to clean it a bit, buff the chrome, and align the second reel strip.  Very excited, and I appreciate all of the help on this forums.


And at the end of the day, I definitely still blame that damn spider.  But than again, if it hadn't attempted to carry forward it's DNA, I probably wouldn't have this machine today. 

[Amechanic]

By looking at 1 jpg. I think this whole problem may have started when someone changed the super cap with a 1/2 AA Lithium battery. I’m guessing this locked up the game or it was attempted with credits on the machine.

[MacGUYver]

Possibly, either way it's solved.  Now just gotta unstick the handle, or salvage a spair from the crappy sg50b. 


Now on to my Bally e1000 series!

[David Walz]

Don't you just enjoy someone FUBAR a machine, then you have to go back and resolve all of their problems before you can find the real problem. 


I've been dealing with that on my slot machine, many FUBAR in mine, however I finally see a bright light ahead thanks to several members herehere, Amechanic is the one that has been to my rescue. 

[Amechanic]

Possibly, either way it's solved.  Now just gotta unstick the handle, or salvage a spair from the crappy sg50b. 


Now on to my Bally e1000 series!

Just wondering on how the Sigma Treasure Tunnel is doing since fixing the problems? Reason I'm asking is because I myself just found one that's not working.. Going to be bring it home on Sunday. Seems to be complete except for the bill head for the WBA. Did you get The Bally E1000 working?

[MacGUYver]

Got rid of it, new owner a few months later hit the big jackpot, so I assume it's great still.  Once I got it cleared from that damn spider nest, it worked like a charm.


I never fixed the e1000, wife made me ditch it if I wanted to get a motorcycle.  I ditched it hah.  Good luck, post pics/problem of your new machine, these sigmas were my favorite.