Author Topic: Aristocrat Microstar 2.5 Caribbean Gold II First Look Questions (Read 2863 times)

Arkansaw · « **on:** January 03, 2020, 06:33:41 PM »

I guy knew I work on pinballs and video games so he gave me this Aristocrat. So I am new to this.

Machine does not power up to life. No monitor output. Does not play blind. There are two visible "amber/orange" colored LEDs visible in the Power Supply. Does that mean the power supply output is correct or should they be another color?

So far I have only taken out the hopper and I have the following questions:

Question 1 I have searched the archives and Randy Fromm stuff but do not see a specific Microstar 2.5 manual? The Jubilee MK4 seems close. Can someone guide me to a 2.5 manual?
Question 2 I am sorry for this elementary question, but in the picture to release the boards on the red guides, do I need a special tool. I know the MK4 manual says, "Lever the PCBA out of the runners using the board extractors" Board extractors?
Question 3 I have a picture of the top of the Power Supply, I assume that is from the battery leaking and I will discover the severity of the damage once I get the main boards out of the way and get to the vertical interconnect board.

Thanks all.

Paul · « **Reply #1 on:** January 03, 2020, 07:12:21 PM »

Does sound like the power supply or fuse.
Give us a picture of the machine with the door open to help ID the machine.

Arkansaw · « **Reply #2 on:** January 04, 2020, 07:34:57 AM »

Thanks for the reply. I save those pics, but I still can't seem to get them to be correct orientation. Sorry

Arkansaw · « **Reply #3 on:** January 08, 2020, 09:08:02 AM »

Is the battery for this unit on the vertical interconnect board? Still looking for a reply on the board guides. Thanks all.

Paul · « **Reply #4 on:** January 08, 2020, 12:50:37 PM »

Yes the red leavers are for removing the boards.
Show us the battery in question and weâ€™ll try to answer you questions.
That machine is not well know here.

Arkansaw · « **Reply #5 on:** January 13, 2020, 12:13:47 PM »

Here are the board pics. The battery has not leaked. Does someone have manual for this (MK 2.5). Especially the power supply as I will be taking that apart next and will have questions. Will a MK 5 board work in this machine? Thanks

Paul · « **Reply #6 on:** January 13, 2020, 04:40:58 PM »

That is a Varta battery and they are know to leak and ruin boards, so its probably best to replace it.
Start checking the voltages from the wall into the machine, take nothing for granite.
The MK5 boards wont work in a 2.5 machine.

bogan · « **Reply #7 on:** January 17, 2020, 06:31:30 AM »

I was working on a dead one of these today. Turned out to be something wrong with the fluro's pulling down the power supply. I disconnected the 2 fluro tube plugs (I think 9 pin square plugs) on the left had side and the power supply fired up.

When the PSU is working, the 2 orange lights are on inside.

The machine I was working on now has a coin optic error, any chance I could get a photo of the optics and cabling in the door, ie the cables running to the board just under the coin mech?

I too would love a service manual or schematic as well if anyone has one handy. I'll get the machine running without it, but its going to take a whole lot longer!

Arkansaw · « **Reply #8 on:** January 17, 2020, 06:51:18 AM »

I am going to shovel snow off a roof and take care of a few cows and later today I will post the pics. Thanks

bogan · « **Reply #9 on:** January 17, 2020, 06:54:39 AM »

Quote from: Arkansaw on January 17, 2020, 06:51:18 AM

I am going to shovel snow off a roof and take care of a few cows and later today I will post the pics. Thanks

Thanks for that. Glad I dont have to deal with that cold stuff!

Arkansaw · « **Reply #10 on:** January 17, 2020, 03:30:14 PM »

Here are the pics.

I only get beeping noises from my speakers on start up. That beeping goes on for about 2-3 seconds. Blank screen. The screen will give me a line when I kill the power.
In pulling the power supply I assume the ribbon cable on the right can be pulled with the PS in place? Hopefully somewhat will point us toward a manual soon?

I assume a cap kit for the power supply, a cap kit for the monitor board, and a new battery would be a good start?

bogan · « **Reply #11 on:** January 17, 2020, 05:24:52 PM »

Thanks for that. The machine I am working on does not have those black boxes for the optics. I have a few of those style optics lying around so I will see if they can be installed on the machine.

When I pulled to power supply, I disconnected everything to remove it, then tested it unloaded and it worked, so yes the ribbon cable can be removed. Most of the rails are 24V and 5V. There is 3 other lines which I suspect maybe sense or control lines, not sure. When I pulled the PSU it worked fine, so I just tracked down what was stopping it from running hence the fluro's.

Battery is almost a given though, I would change it regardless.

Arkansaw · « **Reply #12 on:** January 17, 2020, 06:13:56 PM »

Pulled the monitor............... Looked at some things posted by http://www.slotnotes.net/2018slot.htm and by the legend Ken Layton. Blacked out and fast chirping seems to be #286 (100 uF 25 Volts).
For the Ceronix 1492 monitor, can someone give me a suggestion on supplier for the cap kit. Ken mentions Zanen Electronics and I probably bought my first cap kit there many years ago. I see there is one kit on e-bay but folks on this site will have the best advice.
How about a supplier for the battery?
Anyone have the Power Supply Pin Output numbers for the Power Supply in the picture?

Arkansaw · « **Reply #13 on:** January 21, 2020, 08:04:25 PM »

If you have this monitor board, from https://arcademonitor.com/arcade-monitor-cap-kits/ceronix-1492-13-inch here is the list of caps needed. If you order them directly from Mouser, you can order yourself 105 degree C and 5000 hour caps at a reasonable price.

Ceronix 1492 13"
Location Cap size
125 = 10uf 50v
126 = 10uf 50v
127 = 10uf 50v
131 = 1000uf 35v
169 = 100uf 25v
191 = 220uf 35v
195 = 1000uf 35v
201 = 10uf 50v
215 = 1000uf 35v
218 = 100uf 25v
225 = 100uf 25v
230 = 1uf 50v
233 = 1uf 50v
256 = 150uf 250v
257 = 150uf 250v
286 = 100uf 25v
317 = 150uf 250v
66 = 10uf 50v
68 = 10uf 50v
h10 = 10uf 50v

Summary of Caps Needed
1000uf 35v = 3
100uf 25v = 4
10uf 50v = 7
150uf 250v = 3
1uf 50v = 2
220uf 35v = 1

AS NOTED BELOW WHEN I DID A RE-CAP, 191 looked original and it was a 470 uF 50 V when I pulled it.

Arkansaw · « **Reply #14 on:** January 22, 2020, 03:26:49 PM »

Is this a good supplier for the Green Varta Battery?
https://www.futureelectronics.com/p/3439544

bogan · « **Reply #15 on:** January 22, 2020, 04:26:36 PM »

Future is a good company, I have used them in the past. Just make sure they have stock in your region, if not try digikey our mouser etc.

Arkansaw · « **Reply #16 on:** January 22, 2020, 06:02:21 PM »

Thanks, did not find it at digikey or mouser.

Arkansaw · « **Reply #17 on:** January 28, 2020, 07:50:52 AM »

If you have this Setec Power Supply, here are the caps (all 105 C):

C 7 200 V 820 uF
C8 200 V 820 uF
C24 16 V 2200 uF
C39 35 V 1000 uF
C40 6.3 V 470 uF

Simon Barsinister · « **Reply #18 on:** January 28, 2020, 01:52:39 PM »

I've got these power supplies, NOS new/old stock, I'll send you a PM.

Arkansaw · « **Reply #19 on:** April 04, 2020, 03:40:34 PM »

I finally had time today to work on this machine.

Re-cap on the monitor board and replaced 63 - PN222A and 65 MPSA64 both available from Mouser.

Note about re-cap. 191 call for a 220 uF 35V, I pulled a 470 uF 50V from the board. It looked to be original. I put the 220 uF 35 V in.

Came to life for the first time.

The Logic Door Switch is off ....... I had to wedge a piece of wood there to keep the switch closed. I assume I can take a needle nose and bend that out more.

I get the pictures below, can some help me with that? Anyone have a manual that would work for this game?

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Author Topic: Aristocrat Microstar 2.5 Caribbean Gold II First Look Questions (Read 2863 times)