S2000 Keeps repeatedly saying ;Display passes self-test; but wont boot up ?

[Jim]

since you can get the machine to load the program, you should be able to get into the test mode, use the small button located near the LEDS , press it one time, you should see the accounting menu in the display, two end buttons should be lit, pressing either one will advance or reverse the direction through the menus. press until you stop at test #4 , press the spin button to enter into that menu,you should see the input test prompt, now press the bet one button until you see the processor test inputs, press the spin button to get into that menu, now press the bet one button until you see the main door  and a 0 in the display,  now close the door and slowly bring down the latch assembly, at some point the 0 should start to alternate to a 1, this is where the latch should be when fully at the rest position,  change you optics to reflect this. 
two other items could cause this door open problem, the cash can door switch, and the belly door switch, both should be bypassed, I have seen the belly door switch cause people to pull out their hair because of intermittent operation.

by the way, to clear a general reel tilt, all you have to do is open the door and turn the jackpot reset key one time.

if you are still having problems with the door optics and you suspect the board being damaged, I sell repaired boards.

Jim

[octoolguy]

Thanks for your help Jim, I have a bit of a problem though. It seems that some/all of my buttons don't light up. The spin button does light up but it's the only one. I am able to access the menu you speak of but at that point I can't get any farther.


Edit:  Here are the error codes I was able to get:
Bill Validator Door = 0 & 1 very fast
Low Battery 1 = 1
Low Battery 2 = 0
Main Door = 0
Coin Drop Door = 0 & 1 slow back and forth
Logic Board = 0 & 1 slow back and forth
Reel optic 1 = 0
Reel optic 2 = 1
Reel optic 3 = 1
Reel optic 4 = 0
Reel optic 5 = 0
There are only 3 wheels
Reel Mechanism Disconnect = 0


I have been able to get the machine to function through a few cycles of dropping quarters in. Some stay, some drop through. If I can get 3 to stay, then I can spin the reels. It even paid off a couple of times but eventually it goes into the slow roll of the reels and I get the "tilt" error message. I truly get the feeling that since this machine sat unused for quite a while, it became oxidized in many areas of the mechanism. I'm not sure what to do to clean it up but I know at least that it does work correctly at times now. That's a good thing. I would greatly appreciate any advice on what to do next. By the way, I'm not sure any of the buttons on the left side have ever had working lights in them. Is it possible to fix that at some point in time? I really want to get my machine back into "like new" condition. Cosmetically, it's in great shape. Just being cantankerous right now. As stated above the main door problem has never been an issue before but I am going to do the adjustment to the sensor. I don't have any idea where any of the other sensors might be. Also, the bill validator will suck a bill in but it spits it right back out. There is never a light on in it either. I know from watching other videos that it should light up yellow when it is in the "acceptance" mode but mine doesn't. Not sure if this has anything to do with it not working.

[Jim]

well the buttons doesn't have to be lit for it to work!  bulb could be bad, play around going through the menus, you won't hurt anything as long as you don't hit the max bet button, this button is usually used to enter the change you make.

Jim

[octoolguy]

qbert, I tried to adjust the sensor on the cabinet side. It's the one mounted to the bracket that holds the white push button switch correct? Well, there is no adjustment. The screw holes are not slotted. I was able to get a tiny bit of movement by loosening the two screws both on the sensor and the 2 screws on the mounting bracket for the push button switch. I got the "main door" to go back and forth between 0 and 1 but I can't get it to stay on the 1. Now what?

[qbert]

No the adjustment is made on the cabinet optic.That one will slide.
Steady back and forth 0 and 1 is what you want.
If you lift the door handle it should just stay steady 0.
That how you know it's working.

[octoolguy]

If I'm understanding you correctly, the cabinet side is the one that is held in place on the push button bracket? There is absolutely no adjustment slot on that sensor. I can post a picture if necessary.
But, with that said, I'm getting a slow 0-1 read out. I am still getting a reel tilt error. Sometimes it's 1, sometimes it's 2 or sometimes it's all 3 but I was able to actually play the game a few times before it went into tilt mode. I'm also still having problems with the coins dropping through but it's getting better. I have got to figure out why my bill validator/acceptor isn't working too. It will pull the bill in but then it comes right back out. I've tried it with many different bills. Some new, some old. No difference. Any ideas?
Thanks again for your patience. I know I'm old but I still love figuring things out. Computers generally give me no trouble but this is a whole different kettle of fish.

[qbert]

The optics are the small black plastic items with two small wires going to them. Two screws hold it. It looks just like the one on the door.
Not in a position I can send a picture now.

[Tilt]

Optics.  The one under the white doorswitch can be adjusted up and down.

[octoolguy]

Mine doesn't look exactly like that. Here are pics of mine. There is no up/down adjustment slots. Only the holes where the screws go through with no wiggle room.

[Tilt]

Yeah, there's some differences between different models.  Mine has the ticket printer in the topbox, yours is next to the third reel.  Either way though the one mounted next to the white door switch should be slotted so you can loosen the screws and move it up or down as necessary.

[octoolguy]

That's what I thought too but NOT! If the sensor bracket, the black plastic piece was turned the other direction then the holes are slotted. I might have to monkey around and see if I can change the holder. I hate to do too much alteration But, I get the feeling that no two of these things were built the same. Sort of like RV's.

[octoolguy]

Now that I look at it, even if I did that, it would be adjustable in and out like the one on the door. Not up and down. Very strange that it is like this because it's got to be spot on when the door is closed with no slop at all. I am able to get the MAIN DOOR message to go back and forth between 0 and 1 and from what I was told above, that is the way it needs to be. Now if I could just get past the Reel Tilt error and keep the reels spinning, that would be great.

[Tilt]

I cant really tell from your photo, but it looks like there may be a slot in the black plastic?  Have you loosened two screws and tried moving it?

General reel tilt errors will occur if the main door is opened when the reels are spinning.  You can clear it, but the main door has to be closed first and the mpu sees the door is closed (door open m message goes away).  Then you turn the jackpot reset key and the reels will stop and the general reel tilt will go away.   Until you can fix the main door error you can't fix the reel tilt.

[sixcardmark]

Black piece screws are screwed into have vertical slots to adjust up and down.

[Ryengoth]

Just bypass the door optics.They are a PITA. As I stated on YT the cherry switch (plunger) switch for the service light has extra dry contacts you can use for the door open/close functionality. There is a how-to on here somewhere that shows the basic wiring diagram for that. You can not just short one side since it is an optical interrupt circuit. Once you get the door switch rewired we can tackle the reel tilts.


I wish the coin hopper was legal in NC. I sold my machine last year. It kept getting abused by kids and people unplugging it at the museum. I went through 3 more MPU, a speaker amp and 2 sets of memory chips with barely $30 in bill-in to cover it all.


Glen

[octoolguy]

People, I know you are trying to be helpful, but I am smart enough to know when something is moveable and when it's not. The sensor on the cabinet side is NOT moveable. Unless there is a trick to it that I am not seeing. I have taken the two screws completely out. The sensor will not move. I drew a pencil line above it to see if it would move. I was able to move it just enough to cover the pencil line and that was only the movement in the screw holes themselves. If I can find that schematic on how to bypass the sensor, I am ready to give that a try. Thanks for all your help but that sensor ain't moving.

[sixcardmark]

The one on the door does not adjust but maybe a slight tad in and out.  The one on the cabinet should adjust up and down if it is the correct one.

[qbert]

I know you are getting frustrated.
This should be a five minute fix.
If your cabinet optic looks like the one pictured above it is movable. Sometimes they stick a little.
I am sure if you pull the cabinet optical screws out completely you will see the slots.
 It is not that way on the door optic so if you are basing your reply on what you did with the door optic screws you will find that you are incorrect. I am not a fan of bypass. I have worked on hundreds of IGT machines and never bypassed one.
When you do the test and you get the 1 and 0 slowly going back and forth does it go to steady 0 when you lift the latch? If it doesn't you have another issue like a bad MPU. Please answer my question before you start butchering  a machine that you have very little experience with.
Rich

[octoolguy]

No the adjustment is made on the cabinet optic.That one will slide.
Steady back and forth 0 and 1 is what you want.
If you lift the door handle it should just stay steady 0.
That how you know it's working.

Ok, I was able to get the slow 0-1 sequence. Still not able to move the sensor but was able to accomplish that setting. The machine tries to operate but not long into the sequence of operating, I go back into the reel tilt situation. 1, 2 or all 3 reels will roll slowly until I open the door and turn the reset key. Then, I close the door and the whole thing starts over again. I have multiple problems going on at the same time with the bill validator not accepting bills also. Very frustrating for the novice who has to depend on all of you kind folks for help. I'm going to go back into the menus again and see if I can figure anything out. But, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I decided against the bypassing of the sensors since I was able to achieve the 0-1 sequence.

[qbert]

You have one problem causing multiple issues.
Think of it this way. If you close the door and the machine seems operational.  Now you try to play.
If the door switch breaks contact when you are putting a bill in it trips a bv error, if the door switch breaks contact after the reels start spinning you get a reel fault,  if you are putting a coin in when the door switch opens then you get a coin fault. I hope this is making sense. All different faults have the same cause.
OK humor me. Please remove the screws from the cabinet optics and take a picture of it head on where the screws were.
Finally try this get the machine in test mode again looking for the 0 and 1 slow back and forth. When it is doing this ( the door is closed and latched) press on the top side of the cabinet left and right to slightly flex the cabinet and see if the cadence of the 0 and 1 changes. If it does the optics require adjustment.
Trying not to get long winded but this is a really good start.