S2000 Keeps repeatedly saying ;Display passes self-test; but wont boot up ?

[octoolguy]

Well, let me start out by apologizing to all of you who insisted that the cabinet sensor was adjustable. I found the it was at the top of the adjustment and could not go any farther. When I tried to push it down, it wouldn't go down either. Someone had overtightend the bottom screen the the flat washer had embedded itself in the plastic so it would not allow the sensor holder to move. After fixing that, I found that by taking the sensor all the way to the bottom and working my way up about a 1/32nd at a time, I was able to get the door to close without having to really lean on it and the 0-1 sequence is now more stable. But, the machine is still not working correctly so I guess we have to move on to the next thing. Also, sometimes the quarters will stay and sometimes they drop straight through. I replace the coin in the comparator but that doesn't seem to change anything. WOW! Just now while I'm typing this, the machine played, very loudly I might add, a musical song I've never heard it play before. Very loud! Then it stopped. The read out keeps asking for coins. I feel that there is something haywire in the machine's program. Wow! Again with the music. Strange song. Very loud. I must have changed something in the menu system. Gotta go check.

[octoolguy]

Thanks for your patience. I will do that. Ok, I tried doing that but I wasn't able to make it change. BUT, if I lift on the lower right corner of the door, I make it go from fast 0-1 to slow 0-1. If I life it far enough, it goes to 0. It's like the hinge on the door might be worn. I know these machines are used heavily before they are retired. Maybe I need to replace the hinge?

[Jim]

in reply #20 I asked you to bypass the two switches that cause these intermittent problems, did you do that?  especially the belly door switch.  it is located in the upper top left of the belly door,  there is a two pin connector that terminates at the switch, pull the two ends off the switch and cut off the connectors and strip the two wires and twist them together and then put a piece of tape over the connection.

[qbert]

It's not the hinge the cabinets suck on S2000s that's why some folks say "I just moved it from another room an now it doesn't work " Usually the cabinet has flexed in a different direction and the optics need alignment. Couple that with Casino abuse or worse Casino on a boat. You want to have the latch all the way down it helps square up the weak cabinet. Slightly lifting the door when you close it should help you to get the latch all the way down. That's where you should adjust the optics to when the latch is completely down.
Coin comparator- try adjusting the small sensitivity screw on the lower right of the comparator all the way counter clockwise and see if that helps.
The loud noise is an attract mode that will play a short tune 45-60 seconds after the last button on the machine is pressed. The volume is adjustable though the same type procedure you used to get into the door switch test mode.

[octoolguy]

in reply #20 I asked you to bypass the two switches that cause these intermittent problems, did you do that?  especially the belly door switch.  it is located in the upper top left of the belly door,  there is a two pin connector that terminates at the switch, pull the two ends off the switch and cut off the connectors and strip the two wires and twist them together and then put a piece of tape over the connection.

I'm not sure what the belly door is. Is it the smaller door that is on the front of the main door?
edit: I went to the switch you mentioned and it has already been bypassed. Two green wires cut and crimped together.

[octoolguy]

It's not the hinge the cabinets suck on S2000s that's why some folks say "I just moved it from another room an now it doesn't work " Usually the cabinet has flexed in a different direction and the optics need alignment. Couple that with Casino abuse or worse Casino on a boat. You want to have the latch all the way down it helps square up the weak cabinet. Slightly lifting the door when you close it should help you to get the latch all the way down. That's where you should adjust the optics to when the latch is completely down.
Coin comparator- try adjusting the small sensitivity screw on the lower right of the comparator all the way counter clockwise and see if that helps.
The loud noise is an attract mode that will play a short tune 45-60 seconds after the last button on the machine is pressed. The volume is adjustable though the same type procedure you used to get into the door switch test mode.

Thanks but that sound has never been made the whole time we've had the machine. I used to let it sit, turned on, 24/7 until I started turning it off. I think I have the sensor set right now but it is so sensitive that it won't stay set for very long. I'm going to have to find a way to make it stay lined up. Do you know which side is the transmitter and which is the receiver? The one on the cabinet seems to have the eye glass so I would think that is the receiver. But, what do I know? I'll try adjusting that comparator. At what point do we try to get the bill acceptor fixed?

[octoolguy]

since you can get the machine to load the program, you should be able to get into the test mode, use the small button located near the LEDS , press it one time, you should see the accounting menu in the display, two end buttons should be lit, pressing either one will advance or reverse the direction through the menus. press until you stop at test #4 , press the spin button to enter into that menu,you should see the input test prompt, now press the bet one button until you see the processor test inputs, press the spin button to get into that menu, now press the bet one button until you see the main door  and a 0 in the display,  now close the door and slowly bring down the latch assembly, at some point the 0 should start to alternate to a 1, this is where the latch should be when fully at the rest position,  change you optics to reflect this. 
two other items could cause this door open problem, the cash can door switch, and the belly door switch, both should be bypassed, I have seen the belly door switch cause people to pull out their hair because of intermittent operation.

by the way, to clear a general reel tilt, all you have to do is open the door and turn the jackpot reset key one time.

if you are still having problems with the door optics and you suspect the board being damaged, I sell repaired boards.

Jim

By the way, the "bet one" switch does absolutely nothing. All the settings are done with the 2 left side buttons, and the spin button. Also, how do I go about getting the bulbs for those 3 buttons on the left? None of them light up. I think they used to. I also looked at the underside of those buttons to see how to replace the bulbs. Do the buttons come out of the door from the top or do I just have to finnagle my fat fingers in behind all those wires? It would seem like they would make it easier to replace the bulbs from the top. But, once again, what do I know?

[qbert]

Ok can we work on one thing at a time?
What is working and what is not?
Have the reel tilts stopped, game play now working?
What's up with the bv?
Need a status of what is working and what is not before you start worrying about button lights etc.

[octoolguy]

Ok can we work on one thing at a time?
What is working and what is not?
Have the reel tilts stopped, game play now working?
What's up with the bv?
Need a status of what is working and what is not before you start worrying about button lights etc.

Well, nothing works for very long but I know it's because of the door. The reels keep going into tilt. That's maddening but I can live with it for now. The game works SOMETIMES but not for long. Something keeps messing up, either the reel tilt or the coin accepter. Also, the credits keep blinking on and off with different amounts. It's as if the whole thing has become confused. I haven't had it working long enough to know if the coin validator is working better or not. I did turn the adjuster all the way counter clockwise which amounted to about a quarter of a turn. The light shows green on it. I will keep trying whatever you suggest. I only hope you don't get fed up with me. Sure wish you were close by. It would be so much easier but we'll get through it. THANKS AGAIN!

[octoolguy]

I did another fine tune on the sensor and got it pretty much to where when I close the door, the thing cycles and is in game play mode. I managed to run it about 6 times and it went into reel tilt mode. I open the door, turn the payout switch, close the door and it either becomes playable or it goes right back into reel tilt mode. If all of this is caused by the door sensor, I'm about to bypass it. But I won't until you tell me to. As of right now, I have stopped the reel tilt and left the door unlatched.


Oh, the bv still doesn't work. It used to have a yellow light that illuminated when everything was working correctly. Yesterday, it would take the bill but spit back out. today, nada.

[octoolguy]

As of right now, it's in play mode but will not accept coins. I hate to open the door to readjust the cv. I was able to play through 33 credits that had built up. It paid twice on cherries. It accepted one quarter but did not give me a credit for it. Just stayed in the machine.

[Tilt]

The reason you can't get them adjusted and stable is because the leaking battery has damaged the circuit traces that are used for the door status circuitry.  Sometimes you can look at the traces and it's pretty obvious they're damaged, other times it may just have damaged a through hole (that connects the top of the circuit board to the lower circuit board) that's not visible.  The damage causes intermittent problems just like what you're experiencing.  It's a well known problem and will happen to every S2000 MPU eventually if the battery isn't either removed or replaced before it starts leaking.  You can bypass the optics if you choose, but you will still have the same problem. 

Personally I'd leave it alone and find a new MPU board.

[octoolguy]

The reason you can't get them adjusted and stable is because the leaking battery has damaged the circuit traces that are used for the door status circuitry.  Sometimes you can look at the traces and it's pretty obvious they're damaged, other times it may just have damaged a through hole (that connects the top of the circuit board to the lower circuit board) that's not visible.  The damage causes intermittent problems just like what you're experiencing.  It's a well known problem and will happen to every S2000 MPU eventually if the battery isn't either removed or replaced before it starts leaking.  You can bypass the optics if you choose, but you will still have the same problem. 

Personally I'd leave it alone and find a new MPU board.

Ok, assuming that my board is bad, how much am I looking at for a new board? And will I have a lot of trouble setting it all back up? I did just buy two chips to have in case they were needed. A number 17 and a 97. Will they be of any use if I replace my board?

[Tilt]

Not real sure.  I know the prices have gone up in the last few months as the supply of good MPUs has declined.  Check with Jim at Midwest slots or any of the other vendors on the front page.

It's easy to set back up....as long as you throw your clearchip (Clear 97) in the trash.  Honestly, don't use it.  There's no reason to use a clear chip unless you need to change the machines accounting denomination.  Most all of your settings will be restored from an EEPROM chip located on your motherboard (as long as you didn't use the clear 97 on it).  You'll have to move the game EPROMs from your old board to the new one.  Be careful when you do it.  Don't bend pins plugging them in, make sure you put them in the correct socket, and don't install them backwards. 

When you plug the board in and turn the machine on you'll get a couple of errors.  Turn the jackpot reset key and follow the directions on the display until all the errors clear.  Then close the door and it should be ready to play.

[octoolguy]

Thanks, I'm glad you warned me about that clear chip. I surely would have screwed up. It's my nature to do whatever might be wrong. I always cut twice and measure once so to speak. Never learned my lesson. Anyway, I'm going to check into a new board. Thanks.

[erbs]

The sound you are hearing is the attract mode. It will only play when there are no credits left on the machine. It will not when there are credits. As for reading your post it seems you have a bad MPU.

[octoolguy]

Thanks for that info. I guess because we almost always left it with some credits I'd never heard it before. VERY loud. Any way to tone it down? Also, yes, I have decided to replace the board. If and when I can find one. I'll take either a 502 or a 504. Makes not difference to me.

[Ryengoth]

Like I have said, the optical sensors are a PITA on old machines. Bypass it with the cherry switch and never have another door open issue again.

[octoolguy]

Like I have said, the optical sensors are a PITA on old machines. Bypass it with the cherry switch and never have another door open issue again.

Thanks Ryengoth, It seems that I have a bad board so I guess this has all been for naught.

[Ryengoth]

Pinging @RB. Got a spare 504 mpu around? If you really want to play fun you can add the multi-denom touch panel and 6-digit credit display. I did that upgrade to mine and it was more fun to be able change the denom during play.