Author Topic: GameKing slant top Kortek monitor went black (Read 7057 times)

Rane420 · « **on:** October 16, 2015, 03:54:42 PM »

Hello all, I have a couple Game King slant tops and one of the monitors seems to not be getting powered. I believe it is a 19 inch Kortek. When I swap it to the other machine, the problem goes with it. Are there fuses or anything that I could look at to see if that is the problem? I'm not sure what my next trouble shooting steps would be. Both machines seem to work fine when I put the good monitor in.

rickhunter · « **Reply #1 on:** October 16, 2015, 04:27:18 PM »

Power supply on the monitor? Does this monitor have an external power supply (like a black brick velcroed or tie wrapped to the chassis)?

Rane420 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 16, 2015, 05:00:38 PM »

I didn't see anything like that on them. They are at my dad's house so I'll take a closer look in a bit. Is it safe to assume it would be visible without taking the monitor off the chassis? In case it is relevant, they are on a wall switch rather than powering them up and down from the internal on/off switch. I can't really imagine that is a factor, but in case that can cause a weird surge or something I thought it might be worth mentioning.

rickhunter · « **Reply #3 on:** October 16, 2015, 08:04:26 PM »

It would look like something like one of those power bricks velcroed or tie wrapped to the chassis. You don't need to remove the LCD from the chassis to see it. You may have to pull out the assembly. Some of these monitors have internal power supplies, others have the brick. If it is internal, and it is a power supply issue, you will have to remove it from the chassis, open the LCD and look at the power circuit for possible bad caps. That is almost always the case with these. If you are not the type to mess around with that, then your only solutions would be to buy a new monitor, or find someone who can do the former for you. If it is the external type, you could just replace it with another one. Usually 24 volts or 12 volts depending on your monitor. But should be easy enough to remove and splice another power brick into place.

Amechanic · « **Reply #4 on:** October 16, 2015, 09:12:38 PM »

Are your machines monitors LCD or the old style CRT tube type?

Rane420 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 16, 2015, 11:22:28 PM »

Amechanic - they are LCD type, I've attached some extra pics in case they help

Rick - doesn't look like they have the external supply. I don't have much experience with bad caps and such, but a couple weeks ago I knew far less than I do now about slots in general. Looks like me and a Google need some quality time to work on some familiarization around monitor pieces and parts. Thanks for the insights and I'll post back as I get things figured out :-)

rickhunter · « **Reply #6 on:** October 16, 2015, 11:33:53 PM »

Yes, the power board is internal. You would have to disassemble the chassis and remove the back panel off the lcd to see what power supply it uses. Like I said replacing the caps usually works well. Or you could just buy a new power supply. Either way you still need to take it apart to see what is going on. Do you get anything at all on the monitor. Any kind of green led saying you have power, or is it totally dead?

Amechanic · « **Reply #7 on:** October 17, 2015, 02:53:06 AM »

Quote from: Rane420 on October 16, 2015, 11:22:28 PM

Amechanic - they are LCD type, I've attached some extra pics in case they help

Rick - doesn't look like they have the external supply. I don't have much experience with bad caps and such, but a couple weeks ago I knew far less than I do now about slots in general. Looks like me and a Google need some quality time to work on some familiarization around monitor pieces and parts. Thanks for the insights and I'll post back as I get things figured out :-)

Maybe once you locate the power supply you can get a cap kit to repair it.

Rane420 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 17, 2015, 06:15:16 AM »

Hopefully today I can get some time to get inside the monitor and poke around. Before I crack open the power supply to look at capacitors. I'll post a pic for confirmation that I've found the right thing. As for any kind of led power indicator, I don't see any that light up. It acts as though it is not getting any power at all, no flicker and as black as can be. If I had'nt been able to plug in the other monitor with success I wouldn't have a clue if it was on the machine side not sending power or the monitor itself. That is what had me going down the fuse path originally was because it was working like a champ the day before and then deader than dead the next time we tried to power up.

I may be able to answer this question on my own when it is open, but is the power supply something simple swap from the working monitor to see if that is where my problem is or would it be better to make the assumption it is bad and go straight into repairing/replacing it?

Another question is with Radio Shack retail locations closed, are there any chains that you could buy either capacitor kits or replacement capacitors without having to order online? Since this is a new arena for me it would be nice to have a place I could bring the pieces to make sure I'm getting the correct replacements.

rokgpsman · « **Reply #9 on:** October 17, 2015, 06:44:01 AM »

Fry's Electronics has a lot of stores in different states, you may have one nearby. But nowadays many people have to order electronic stuff online since retail stores for the hobby have gone away. Some of the popular online places are Jameco, DigiKey, Mouser and Happ, etc. And some of the slot machine dealers carry electronic parts including cap kits. Also there are electronic parts sellers on ebay.

Here is a link to Fry's locations:
http://www.frys.com/ac/storeinfo/storelocator?site=csfooter_D

How does the monitor get power, is it from an external power supply box that is sealed and is only used by the monitor, like an external power supply used on laptops? Or does 115AC power connect to the monitor and there is a power supply inside the monitor?

rickhunter · « **Reply #10 on:** October 17, 2015, 07:39:03 AM »

On the kortek based on what he describes, it would be internally. The iGT multi-pin connector for the monitor supplies AC mains, so all these monitors have their own internal power supply. Remember these cabinets originally were designed to hold a CRT, so IGT didn't think of putting dc voltage in their monitor plug.

Suzohapp sells this as the replacement for I believe is the original part. The power supply should be part #KT-PS60PF and looks like the picture below. Also attached Rob Sult's notes on repairing these boards. He does mention that when there is no voltage, to replace a specific capacitor.

To answer the other question, yes, if both monitor are the same model, you should be able to swap the power supplies to make sure that is where the problem is. This is part of the "fun" in this hobby, to figure things out and to revive old parts that don't work!

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/10-0001-00

Rane420 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 17, 2015, 02:17:31 PM »

THANKS! That will definitely help out! I'll report back once I get some time to spend some time on the monitor. I'm hoping for this evening.

Rane420 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 18, 2015, 07:14:51 PM »

Quick update, I was able to swap power supplies and the problem monitor booted up fine. So now I can confirm that is my problem. To replace just the capacitors is about $1.50. I've only ever soldered a handful of times, but am going to take a crack at it, which if I fail just means I have to get a new board, that I'd need to buy at this point anyways.

Any tips, tricks or recommendations for soldering to circuit board?

rickhunter · « **Reply #13 on:** October 18, 2015, 08:08:58 PM »

A replacement Power Supply will run you $70. If you have someone close to you, maybe they would want to do it for less or for beers? Desoldering and soldering caps is not that hard, but you need to have the right tools so you don't kill the pcb solder pads. You will need at least some desoldering braid to remove the solder from the bad caps. Once you remove the bad caps, it is easy to put the good ones back in. Just make sure you take a photo of the circuit from top so you can see which way the caps go. One side is "-" and has a line to denote it.

Amechanic · « **Reply #14 on:** October 18, 2015, 09:32:06 PM »

Make sure the solder you use is a good quality rosin cord, and the thinner the better too. If you find the soldered on caps solder doesn't seem to want to melt, try adding a little new to it. Yea that sound funny but it works. Use a thin braid too. I like to trim off the end when it get full. Do one at a time and take as many pictures as possible. That's what nice about cell phone, they make a good note pad in pictures for projects.

Rane420 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 19, 2015, 11:24:51 AM »

Thank you! I would have absolutely had backwards capacitors and never had it occur to me to add more solder to remove it, but I can see how that would help.

Amechanic · « **Reply #16 on:** October 19, 2015, 11:49:16 AM »

Well if you do put a cap in backward and power it on you will heard the cap blow up.. Watch them do it on You tube. Like a small fire cracker.

rickhunter · « **Reply #17 on:** October 19, 2015, 11:53:56 AM »

Rane420 · « **Reply #18 on:** October 22, 2015, 06:32:37 AM »

Thanks to everyone's help, I was able to remove the capacitors and replace them. Whether it was my inexperience and lovely soldering technique or a problem somewhere else on the board I can't say, but it did not allow me to power up the monitor. I think it may be time to suck it up and order the replacement power supply. That said, it now has my curiosity what is making this supply fail, so for the challenge of it I suspect I will continue to play with it just to see if it can't be resurrected (just not when it's holding up playing my machine

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Author Topic: GameKing slant top Kortek monitor went black (Read 7057 times)