Author Topic: My 2nd IGT Poker and , it needs help (Read 3558 times)

Tilt · « **Reply #20 on:** March 28, 2020, 07:25:10 AM »

Did the self test button get stuck when you pressed it in? Take a pair of needle nose pliers and push it in and pull it back out a couple of times and see what happens.

Hiram · « **Reply #21 on:** March 29, 2020, 02:48:42 AM »

Since couldn't sleep ..I decided to try it again but this time I left the Bill Validator and cash box out. ut . As soon as I powered it up ..it starts showing these screens now ...and when I turn the key (since that's the only option I can do) ..it goes to the Touch Screen calibrate message . But the touchscreen function will not work at all ..no more. All the plugs are in place on the TS board. But since the touch did work ...could the problem be with the board itself ? Maybe it would be cheaper and faster to just buy a new replacement touchscreen circuit board ? Or , would removing the Battery clear this and reset the game at this point ? If anyone has any ideas I would sure appreciate your help --these are the only 3 screens I see now ..

also - Thanks Tilt but , the button is fine and Alan (badbaud) just had all the boards at his shop and tested and repaired them. As soon as UPS delivered them back to me , I installed them and he helped me get it working ...then a few hours later , this started when I tried using the menu .

Tilt · « **Reply #22 on:** March 29, 2020, 10:48:06 AM »

I dusted off one of my 3802 MPU boards and put it in my machine, pressed & held the MPU self test button and powered it on. The only thing that happened is once it booted up it went to the operator menu screen like it should when you press the button. You can not get to the touchscreen calibration screen by pressing the MPU self test button and holding it in. I didn't think so, but couldn't rule it out 100% without trying.

So then I tried the same thing, but holding the jackpot reset key closed. When it booted I saw the initializing screen, then the attendant menu, then the touchscreen cal screen like you said yours did. So maybe your jackpot reset keyswitch is sticking? It should spring loaded and return to the off position when you release the key. You can check it with a multimeter to make sure it's opening and closing correctly. If you don't have a multimeter you could pull a wire off the switch and see if you still end up at the touchscreen calibration screen when you power the machine on. If so, check the yellow wire with a green stripe that goes to the switch for any damage from the switch back to the motherboard connector that it goes to. When you turn the keyswitch this line is grounded through the switch. If the insulation is on the yel/grn wire is damaged somewhere and the wire comes in contact with the cabinet it will ground the line and the MPU will see it the same way as if you turned the switch.

Now I see the machine isn't going straight to the touchscreen cal menu on it's own. How did you fix that or did it just stop doing it on its own?

The bill validator and the touchscreen are Netplex devices and use the same bus to communicate with the MPU. If one device goes bad it can cause all the devices on the bus to fail. With the bill validator transport removed the only thing left on the bus is the touchscreen in your machine. Just leave yours out for now since it doesn't work anyhow. You can leave the cash can in if you want, that doesn't matter.

Some error messages will clear when the door is opened and closed. Turn the machine on with the door closed, when those messages appear open the door, then close it. Did they clear or stay active?

Hiram · « **Reply #23 on:** April 02, 2020, 03:40:00 PM »

I tried it last night --
The Bill validator and cash box are not installed -- I closed the Door then plugged it in ...I'm showing the screens that came up in sequence ..to change the screen , I had to either turn the key and release it , or at one point it lets me press one of the game buttons ...but the touchscreen function will not work at all , no mater which screen is showing. So I also unplugged it ..and slid out the Monitor. I rechecked all the plugs going into the touchscreen Circuit board and made sure everything was plugged in ...then slid the Monitor back and tried plugging it i again ..all the same screens and no touchscreen function at all. And I tried using the white reset button , it never made a difference. Could the Touchscreen Circuit board be fried ? How much do those boards sell for and where can I buy one ? Maybe buying another board would be cheaper than paying UPS for shipping it and then returning it to me plus the repair costs. Any suggestions or ideas would really be appreciated guys

Hiram · « **Reply #24 on:** April 03, 2020, 11:34:16 PM »

Those are the screens that come up ..and only after using the key or button each time

Hiram · « **Reply #25 on:** April 09, 2020, 02:09:23 AM »

Just to Update you all -- As I posted on my other PE+ Thread ..that PE+game is now working thanks to Alan ...and this Game King is still dead. I still can't get rid of the calibrate touchscreen function and it will not offer me the Dot to touch ...and the touch function doesn't work anyway. Alan asked for pictures of the touch board and the tape around the screen ..I sent them to him but I'll post them here as well . on the inside there's a thick black bundle of wires close to the edge of the CRT Tube ..but that bundle is not anchored or tight against the edge anywhere else on the tube , just the top ...also ..there's a red LED lit on the touch board ...I don't know if either of those 2 things make a difference. Maybe something on the board is locked up or fried . I was wondering if it would be safe to remove the Battery , then put the battery back in and if that would reset everything to get rid of the calibrate touchscreen dead end I'm in ...But I don't know if removing the battery would create some new problems. There's no other way to reset it since that white button doesn't do anything ....maybe I put that green ground wire in the wrong place ?

Hiram · « **Reply #26 on:** April 18, 2020, 03:59:40 AM »

<<UPDATE >> 4/18 --- after looking into the options and what it would cost to ship my old CRT to Allen for repair , I called CERONIX and decided to just go for the upgrade. It didn't make sense to repair the old CRT since it had some Burn in and years of use . So , I bought a 15" Touch LCD Flatscreen replacement. Brand New , 4 year warranty and about $440 with shipping and it will be here on Tuesday !! They said converting my old 13" to the 15" is easy and they even supply a new Bezel ...not sure how I'll deal with the yellow banner that points out the Bill Validator on the right side of the screen , maybe I can shorten it or buy a replacement ? But once that's finished , all I need help with is how to change the bet amount from 1 cent to Quarters (that it's setup for) and , send my Bill Validator to Alan to have that fixed. Does anyone have the "Key" I could buy to change it to 25 cent bets ? I always thought this machine allowed you to change your bet amount while you were playing but ...someone told me I'll need a key. I guess that means it's not something the player can change when he feels like it. ...Another thing is , early on I was told that my game was an old version and the key lock on my board's Drawer was for that and I would never need a chip "key" ...so , that has me confused. Maybe it's worth buying the Key Chip since it will work on other upgraded games ?
I think I'd like to upgrade the game so , maybe I won't need the key .. ...I wish I knew that I could have looked into upgrading my Board from my 3802 to a newer 3902 before I sent it out for service but ..it's ok , I'm learning . If I do it . Anyone know where I can buy one of those boards ? Since this game has the 2 CPU "drawers" above the Monitor , does that mean I'll have to change both of "drawers" (all of those boards) PLUS the Backplane board ? Or just the larger bottom Drawer with 2 boards in it ? Since I'm upgrading the Monitor , it makes sense to upgrade the machine as much as I can since I plan on enjoying it for years to come ...The main question is Is it worth my upgrading to the 3902 ? please let me know what you think , thanks

Tilt · « **Reply #27 on:** April 18, 2020, 05:50:37 PM »

That's how I fix CRT monitors too. It's a little bit pricey but no more burnt in images and it uses less power and generates less heat too.

You won't have to modify your bill validator panel, the old one will fit just fine in the new bezel.

Can't say for sure if you need a keychip or not without knowing what software you currently have installed. Remember you were trying to get that information when everything went south? Real early software used the switch, later stuff keychips, so it all depends on what you have in it. Most of the early stuff was single denomination too. Later software became available in single and multi-denomination versions. Most later multi-denomination games let you select 12 different games per denomination.

If your bill validator is a WBA-10 or 11 tell Alan to toss it in the trash and get a WBA-13. You'll have to change the wiring harness that the transport plugs into, but it's an easy task. The WBA-13 is less obsolete than the 10/11 and accepts all the current currency. The 10/11's do not and only accept bills face up.

I'd recommend upgrading to 3902 MPU boards, then you can run newer SIMM based software and I-game software too if you want to. They're dirt cheap and readily available right now. I'm sure most of the vendors on the home page can set you up, or ebay if you want to roll the dice that you'll get one that works. The good thing about getting something from a NLG vendor is they'll stand behind it and take of any problems you may have with it. It may cost a little more, but peace of mind has value too.

You can't put 2 MPUs in your machine. The upper tray is your input/output (I/O) boards. They drive most all the machines peripheral devices, switches, button lights, hopper, meters, etc.

You can however keep a couple of MPUs loaded with different games and swap it along with the EEPROM chip on the mother board. Doing that keeps all your settings, credits, etc intact. But, you won't want to swap MPU boards back and forth between a 3802 and a 3902. That's because 3902s run a higher video resolution that your 3802 does. So if you swap back and forth between 3802 and 3902 you will have to re-adjust your screen position controls every time which is a pain in the ass. Stick with 3902's and toss the 3802 in a drawer for an emergency spare.

When you get your stuff back from Alan try again the get the program version information for your game software and I'll tell you what it is, what it can do, and what keychip you need if any.

Hiram · « **Reply #28 on:** April 18, 2020, 07:06:23 PM »

Thanks a million for that info !! I'm relieved to hear I won't have to try cutting that yellow banner or changing anything to make it fit. I'll hook it up as soon as I get it and post pics of what the program shows . Is there a certain 3902 board that I should look for ? Like , a 6.0 or special latest update ?

sixcardmark · « **Reply #29 on:** April 18, 2020, 07:13:33 PM »

Revisions should not matter. Slots4home has some on ebay right now I think with a game set already on them at a good price.

Hiram · « **Reply #30 on:** April 19, 2020, 12:27:10 PM »

Thanks Gents ..I just got off the phone with Slots4Home and , I want to confirm something --- If / when I buy the new 3902 MPU Board for my Game ...will I have to change the old Back Plane Board that's in there right now or , can my new 3902 Board still use that old backplane without losing any resolution quality or speed ? ...is there such a thing as am updated backplane board for the 3902 ?

Tilt · « **Reply #31 on:** April 19, 2020, 01:41:39 PM »

No. 3802/3902 boards both use the same motherboard (backplane). To upgrade from a 3902 to a 044 MPU you do have to change the motherboard, but you don't have to worry about that upgrade because they never made a 044 motherboard for these old 13" machines.

Hiram · « **Reply #32 on:** April 19, 2020, 02:01:05 PM »

That's GREAT News !! Thanks because 20 mi ago I closed the deal with him and he's shipping me this 5.3 version 3902 board with a #40 key chip -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-Game-King-3902-CPU-M0000944-tested-working-new-Battery-And-Free-Shipping/143579808901?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225074%26meid%3D001646ddb9bd460fa3357ffef039ecc4%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D143579808901%26itm%3D143579808901%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

so as soon as it comes in , I can just slide the drawer in and start losing..uhh , winning

[size=78%] LOL[/size]

Tilt · « **Reply #33 on:** April 19, 2020, 02:13:13 PM »

A year or so ago you would have paid that for the software alone.

Yes. You will have to clear a few errors, just follow the onscreen directions. The machine will eventually come up ready to play with default values. If you want to make changes to the defaults you may need to key it. You can change some setting without it, others require it. The machine will tell you if the keychip is required.

Hiram · « **Reply #34 on:** April 21, 2020, 05:27:19 PM »

Hi Tilt -- The Flat Screen came in !! ...I removed the old CRT and the old Bezel ....figured out that I had to slide the plasic "sign" off the assembly so I could get at the 3 or 4 screws that hold that to the bezel ...then took the new bezel , added that yellow "sign" box to te side and screwed it in ...then I slid the whole new LCD assembly in and powered up ---it said coin jam door open ...then I turned the key and ended up going to the Touchscreen calibrate screen ...but , it still won't give me 2 dots to touch. I exited that , removed and replaced the Quarter in the comparitor ...turned it back on and , the coin jam is gone and the game works BUT , I still can not calibrate the new LCD screen --maybe I don't have to because it is working fine ? The main problem now is - I can not close the door because the new bezel is pressing against the new Flatscreen way too much . I am worried about forcing the door closed and having the bezel damage the new touchscreen .So I unplugged it -- removed the screen and looked , found the Monitor table adjustments underneath but they are set all the way back as far as they can go. Maybe I should just dremel longer slots so the table can slide further back ? I thought They figured everything out for this so , maybe they sent me the wrong assembly ? But , that can't be since I sent them pictures of my Data Plate and of the unit. ...I removed the Bezel , closed the door and the game plays GREAT !!! ...but , it looks kinda toothless now with both the Bezel and that yellow Bill validator sign missing ..the case is open. Am I missing an adjustment ? Ever see anyone else run into this ?

Amechanic · « **Reply #35 on:** April 21, 2020, 06:19:32 PM »

To adjust the depth of the monitor, you have to loosen a coupls screws, or nut under the monitor shelf.. You should have a long screw sticking out of the front of the monitor shelf that faces forward.. That is used as a stop for how far back the monitor shelf will slide.. You will have to remove your boards to get access to the nuts on the under side of the monitors shelf that lock it in place... I hope that makes sense to you...

Hiram · « **Reply #36 on:** April 21, 2020, 11:33:46 PM »

It's done !! ..figured it out and even though it is tight, it works and looks GREAT !! -- The shelf does not have a long screw sticking out BUT , it has the 4 nuts under the shelf and they were all at the max amount ..except for 1 that still had a tiny amount of room still --so I loosened that 1 and tried again , and it just barely closed. I played all the games and they work but that Penny setting has to go , ..I can drop quarters in the game and it reads them as pennies and gives me a one cent credit each time lol ...also ..I tried to cash out ..it won't activate the hopper and gives me a message that the attendant will pay me . So , I tried pushing the white MPU reset button and I get only one main menu (you can see it in one of the pics below) and none of the options let me turn on the Hopper or reset the bet amount. My 3802 board has a real key lock hooked up to 2 wires and I was told that was the early way you programmed the game before they created the key chips so ...should I try jumping those 2 wires ? Also ...I slid in the Bill Validator and the money box ..it won't light up and will not take any bills ...and in the menu , I didn't see any option for that either . I tried holding the white button in for 10 sec ..no difference , same limited menu. Plus ...the touchscreen works great but I can not get it to give me the 2 dots to calibrate it . Could this new flatscreen work differently and not use the dot system ? .
So that's the Good news , it's WORKING and the Flatscreen look fantastic . Now I have a spare 13" CRT that works except for the touchscreen so , I'll box it up and hide it - just in case
The main remaining issues are --
>Re-setting the Bet amount
>getting the Bill Validator to work
>getting the Hopper to work and pay out.

Also ..as you know ,I bought a new 3902 board with games on it from Slots4Home and I should have it this week sometime .
Is there a chance that once I slide the new 3902 Tray in place , my Hopper and Bill Validator will start working ? He's sending me the #40 keychip with it , once I learn how to use that (kinda spooks me a little , worried about static destroying something new or bending a pin) ( and yes , I'm afraid of these now LOL) , will that give me the option of not only changing the Bet amount back to Quarters but also turning on the Hopper and Bill Validator ?
Would I be better off just buying a new Bill Validator ? And if I buy a new one that's updated , will it slide in the old frame or be a new nightmare requiring new sheetmetal and a new wire harness installed ? After all the drama and money spent on these 2 , if putting a new design Bill unit in is a big deal , then maybe I'm better off just blocking off the slot and forgetting about it ...which I'd hate to do since , it would be cool to have the game complete and everything working .
Gents - as always , thanks for understanding that I'm new to all this and helping me learn ...you've been really patient with me and I appreciate it. I'll post all the pictures I just took so you can see how it looks .

Hiram · « **Reply #37 on:** April 21, 2020, 11:40:38 PM »

also ..I can't figure out how to stop that green light from flashing.
But overall -- I am THRILLED with how it's turning out
and eventually , Lisa will stop mumbling $400 (price of the LCD Monitor) and I know she'll enjoy it LOL

Amechanic · « **Reply #38 on:** April 22, 2020, 06:26:31 AM »

Just remind the wife that the new monitor has the warranty. Those game with the flat screen LCD monitor run you up to a $1000 and up depending on location. It looks great.

Jim · « **Reply #39 on:** April 22, 2020, 06:59:04 AM »

from the pictures it indicates you have a WBA 11 unit, you can run a test on it and see if the transport and head work, very easy to do this, first see if the two red LEDS are on (right side ,above the switches) if they are on then the unit is getting power from the power supply. next, remove the transport unit put switches 1-2-3 and 8 in the off position (down) now insert the unit into the machine, remove the cash can, and apply power to the machine, now reach in and turn switch 8 up to the on position, the unit should cycle briefly, you can now insert money into the unit, if it is working it should pull in the bill and run it through the unit and deposit it the area where the cash can was! be aware that the WBA 11 will only accept money in one direction, bills have to be face up and the top of the presidents head has to be facing to the right. this will tell you if the unit is working. if it is bad, I would recommend an upgrade to a WBA 12, it has 4 way acceptance and will accept most of the newer money. only thing you would have to change is the harness plug on the shelf assembly, which comes out pretty easy, usually two screws on the back wall and one or two on the left side wall exterior.

If you decide to upgrade to a WBA12, I have the tested transport, head, software and harness available.

Hope this helps

Jim

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Author Topic: My 2nd IGT Poker and , it needs help (Read 3558 times)