Bally 1000 / 1209 various questions (tilt, PSU, SDS mode, rarity)

[Badbaud]

Look inside the reel mech where a lever gets pulled in when a reel solenoid is activated to stop a reel from spinning.
Those latches are mounted on a narrow black rod.
That rod should spin freely when you twist it with your fingers.
If it doesn't you need to lube under each latch to break up the old grease until the rod spins freely.

[RetroMan]

The over all machine style is not rare. The belly glass belonged to one or a group of casinos. It’s not uncommon for a casino to swap in there glass on the machines used in there building.

Hi there, I think we are saying exactly the same thing! Make (E1000) and model (1209) are not rare at all, but due to the fact that many operators had the Bally glasses exchanged by their own logo glasses, makes the Bally glasses sparce. Up until now, I've seen none but mine.


I don't really care about rarity, as I bought it for keepers anyway. But the fact that it might be rare, might make me want to go an extra mile in restoration. That's why I'm so curious about it.


R

[RetroMan]

Look inside the reel mech where a lever gets pulled in when a reel solenoid is activated to stop a reel from spinning.
Those latches are mounted on a narrow black rod.
That rod should spin freely when you twist it with your fingers.
If it doesn't you need to lube under each latch to break up the old grease until the rod spins freely.

Confirmed. Rod spins freely. All of a sudden, the reel error was gone and all played well. When I thought that error was gone, I de-greased the whole reel mechanism this weekend, and regreased/lubed the critical points following the manual. After reassembly, I had 2 nights of perfect gameplay without any error at all. At the end of night 2, a 71 error occured suddenly. I reset, and after that I get a 41 error at each spin attempt. I swapped reader 1 & 2, still error 41. I suspect a bad contact somewhere, could that be right? I fiddled a bit with the reader connectors and the reader board connectors, but no success. Where should I start looking?


R

[Badbaud]

Does your game have a round cam behind the door lock that rotates and hits a small switch?

[RetroMan]

Does your game have a round cam behind the door lock that rotates and hits a small switch?

Yes, it does. I assume you are referring to 1 of 2 door switches, the other being the one in the lower door hinge.


Something to look for over there?


R

[Badbaud]

Cut the two wires off of the switch, strip the ends and wire nut them together.
You can remove the cam and switch and toss them.
When that switch goes bad it will randomly simulate the door opening and closing.
When this happens during a game you will get a 71 code.

[RetroMan]

Cut the two wires off of the switch, strip the ends and wire nut them together.
You can remove the cam and switch and toss them.
When that switch goes bad it will randomly simulate the door opening and closing.
When this happens during a game you will get a 71 code.

Thanks again for your reply. Good morning from a sunny Holland. 29 celcius expected today!



OK, I will try that. Currently, I have a steady 41 directly after a pull.


When I open the door, the machine changes mode (when it's not tilted ofcourse) and when I close the door (after resetting an error 41 after tilt), code 50 is displayed. I assume that indicates the door switches are ok, but I'll try your suggestion nevertheless.


In test mode 8, with the door open, all in running fine. Isn't that strange?


R

[Badbaud]

Not strange, normal, test 8 ignores the door open.

[RetroMan]

Cut the two wires off of the switch, strip the ends and wire nut them together.
You can remove the cam and switch and toss them.
When that switch goes bad it will randomly simulate the door opening and closing.
When this happens during a game you will get a 71 code.

Hi there, tried this but no luck. I also measured both of the switches and they appear to be fine. The door cam switch is a 'make' contact and the hinge switch is a 'break' contact. Both switches work. I was already suspecting this, as the machine responds perfectly to door open/close situations. Still, there must be something wrong as in test mode 8 all is running perfectly. Also the fact that I had 2 nights of perfect play and a "permanent" error 41 all of a sudden, still makes me think it indeed has something to do with a bad contact or switch. If it was up to you, where would you look next?


R

[Badbaud]

Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your meter.

[Amechanic]

I ALWAYS remove the door lock cherry switch. Noting but a headache. Are you sure that nothing is rubbing the reel when the door is closed.. The door wiring or metal shade over the reel light bulb or lower one over the insert and accepted lights. All it takes is a slight rub to slot the reel. Did you check the larger top cross shaft just under the reels to make sure those levers move. I have had them frozen to the shaft.

[RetroMan]

Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your meter.

OK, thanks. I'll ditch the meter. Had one single experience, many years ago, where a fuse measured OK and did not work when in circuit. I will perform the operation this afternoon and report back. That will be at a time when you are probably sound asleep;-)


R

[RetroMan]

Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your meter.

Tried this, no luck. Still a 41. In my previous post, I mentioned this is a "make" type circuit: It is closed when the switch is pushed down. However: When the cam closes the switch is released, hence the circuit is open when the door is closed. So I also tried running the game with the switch wires separate from each other. With exactly the same result, 41 directly at pull.


Where will I be looking next?

[RetroMan]

I ALWAYS remove the door lock cherry switch. Noting but a headache. Are you sure that nothing is rubbing the reel when the door is closed.. The door wiring or metal shade over the reel light bulb or lower one over the insert and accepted lights. All it takes is a slight rub to slot the reel. Did you check the larger top cross shaft just under the reels to make sure those levers move. I have had them frozen to the shaft.

I checked all of this and everything seems to be running fine, mechanically-wise. The reels are spinning freely. As the machine tilts directly at pull, I can also check if the reels are spinning at more or less the same speed. And they do. The spin evenly and I can see a distance between the black metal shade over the reel light bulb. Also, test mode 8 is running perfect with the door open.


Where to look next?


R

[RetroMan]

I ALWAYS remove the door lock cherry switch. Noting but a headache. Are you sure that nothing is rubbing the reel when the door is closed.. The door wiring or metal shade over the reel light bulb or lower one over the insert and accepted lights. All it takes is a slight rub to slot the reel. Did you check the larger top cross shaft just under the reels to make sure those levers move. I have had them frozen to the shaft.

I did some more checking and haven't got a clue. Still an error 41 directly after pull. I tried reel test 5 but I'm not sure what to look for exactly. I expected a unique (hexadecimal) value at each position, but that is not the case. With the wheels unlocked the values change, but don't seem to do this consistent. Could you explain what I should be looking for?


Thanks,


R

[RetroMan]

Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your meter.

As described before, I tried this without any luck. Still a 41 directly upon pulling.



But I'm also having a hard time understanding this. Maybe I'm misinterpreting something. There are 2 door switches in this machine. From what I understand, the MPU "thinks" the door is open when the hinge cherry switch is closed and the door cam lock microswitch is open. Is that assumption correct?


If that is correct, I think shorting the door cam lock would make the MPU "think" the door is open. Or am I overlooking something now?


Again, I've tried both open and closed without succes, but I'm also trying to learn from you guys so hopefully you can elaborate a bit on this. And perhaps you can guide me in a new direction in order to solve the 41?


Thanks!


R

[Badbaud]

Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your logic.

The door cam switch wires should be on the proper pins or door open / closed will be reversed, the MPU will be confused.

[RetroMan]

Again, cut the two wires off of the door cam switch and wire nut them together.
Don't trust your logic.

The door cam switch wires should be on the proper pins or door open / closed will be reversed, the MPU will be confused.

Hi there, I already did this. The cam microswitch wires are directly connected with each other. The door hinge cherry switch is still original.


What to do next?


R

[Badbaud]

Clear the machine with the test reset buttons on the hopper.

Stick your finger or a screwdriver inside the lower hinge and activate the door cam switch.
Flick the coin in wire down once then pull the handle. Do you still get a 41 code.

[RetroMan]

Clear the machine with the test reset buttons on the hopper.
Stick your finger or a screwdriver inside the lower hinge and activate the door cam switch.
Flick the coin in wire down once then pull the handle. Do you still get a 41 code.

I manually triggered the cherry hinge door switch (indeed put and kept my finger in), with the cam switch shortened and the wires put together. I flicked the coin in wire and got a credit. Hitting it multiple times activates the multiplier (as intended). At pull, an error 41 immediately follows...


Any ideas?


R