SOLVED Simple solution for AVP Optic Bypass?

[Slotman]

Does anyone have a easy tried and true solution for a AVP door optic bypass?
Trying to bypass optics on a machine and although I have done many S+'s and others successfully this is a little different.
It appears that the "body" optic passes through both cherry switches and returns in to the harness.  The harness has a "OPT" tag on it which leads me to believe the door optics are an option and explains the reason the wiring is routed through the cherry switches.
Looking at the diagram makes it a little more confusing as there is 4 options and it looks like the optic harness (2 pin) would just be jumped out. 
I tried the S+ style bypass with crossing the wires Pin 1 of door to pin 2 of cabinet and even tried pin 1 of door to pin 1 of cabinet and no effect.  Of course since the cabinet harness runs through the cherry switches i would press both buttons at the same time with no response.
Anyone have a simple solution?

[Slotman]

Heres a diagram for prosperity (if anyone else needs it in the future)https://prnt.sc/wdt0jb

[Slotman]

I was hoping someone may have chimed in but my progress so far and still cant get the damned "M" light to clear.
Swapped BrainboxesSwapped cabinetsSwapped backpane.
Basically the problem doesnt follow any one device but happens throughout multiple devices / parts.
One cabinet is factory bypassed with a jumper installed in place of the cabinet transmitter or receiver (not sure what the cabinet side is.)
Im leaning toward the cabinet setup in the configuration menu but tried most of those.
I know its something simple and easy but i am ready to pull my hair out.
Any suggestions?  Ill take anything now. Sometimes I overlook the simple stuff.

[Tilt]

I have a G23 cabinet with factory bypassed optics.  Do you have both jumpers installed?  See attached photo.

[Slotman]

I have a G23 cabinet with factory bypassed optics.  Do you have both jumpers installed?  See attached photo.

Tilt, thanks for the reply.  I have reduced and reduced my images to get them below the 1000kb limit but cant upload and each time it says file too large i have to re-type the whole reply again so i cant seem to get much to go right today.
It appears the G23 and G20 are slightly different.  Maybe the generation difference.  I only have the one option to bypass the optics with the one jumper.  The other wires are a sta-kon type which dont appear to be used on any machine.
The other harness was plugged in to the right side cabinet on the backpane so i removed that since it wasnt used on the machine with bypassed optics.
Could it be a misconfiguration in the cabinet?  I chose multiple options.

[Tilt]

Yeah, it does that when the file size is over 1MB.  Frustrating when you type up a lengthy message to have it eaten by the system, but that's the way it is. 

Here's a G23 drawing that shows the two jumpers.  I don't have G20 diagrams and your drawing doesn't show the entire thing.  Take a look at it and see if there should be a second bypass jumper somewhere.  Looks like you've got it narrowed to the cabinet swapping things out.  I doubt there would be anything in any setup menus telling the machine they optics are bypassed, that's what the jumpers do.  I don't have a G20 to look at, but maybe someone here who does can jump in and help?

[Slotman]

Yeah, it does that when the file size is over 1MB.  Frustrating when you type up a lengthy message to have it eaten by the system, but that's the way it is. 

Here's a G23 drawing that shows the two jumpers.  I don't have G20 diagrams and your drawing doesn't show the entire thing.  Take a look at it and see if there should be a second bypass jumper somewhere.  Looks like you've got it narrowed to the cabinet swapping things out.  I doubt there would be anything in any setup menus telling the machine they optics are bypassed, that's what the jumpers do.  I don't have a G20 to look at, but maybe someone here who does can jump in and help?

I found a drawing that matches my layout but unless i am totally overlooking something (which i have been known to do) it looks like i have the only one connector to be "jumpered"

[Tilt]

Sure looks like it to me.  I only have a G23V2 cabinet so that's all I have any experience with or can look at.  From that drawing have you checked for continuity at J17 pins 6 & 9?  You can pull the plungers out on the switches which will close them like they are when the door is really closed.  You should have read 0 ohms between those two pins with all the switches and jumper closed 7 in place.

[Slotman]

Sure looks like it to me.  I only have a G23V2 cabinet so that's all I have any experience with or can look at.  From that drawing have you checked for continuity at J17 pins 6 & 9?  You can pull the plungers out on the switches which will close them like they are when the door is really closed.  You should have read 0 ohms between those two pins with all the switches and jumper closed 7 in place.

So that was one of my checks in the very beginning and it ohmed out properly.  Heres the thing, that circuit is normally a TTL circuit (i think) because it is driving optics which is in essence a  opto-isolator between the door and cabinet.  When a jumper is installed I would think it is basically pulling down (jumping out) that TTL circuit.
Thinking back to the old S+ bypass you would basically feed the TTL from one side to the other (transmitter - receiver) but here it is just a jumper.  How does the board know that the circuit isnt just shorted?

[Stayouttadabunker]

.  How does the board know that the circuit isnt just shorted?

It's not shorting out to ground....it's going to the "interrogate" pin?

[Slotman]

.  How does the board know that the circuit isnt just shorted?

It's not shorting out to ground....it's going to the "interrogate" pin?

You are correct. I was thinking a little off base on that.
Every other sensor works fine. I just can't get the MAIN to clear

[Slotman]

 After studying wiring diagrams and racking my brain I was finally able to figure this out.
Im trying to provide as much info for the next person if they have the same problem.

What I found is thebutton deck has a button that is tied in with the main.  Its not tied in via wire but must be incorporated in the backpane somehow.  If both cherry switches and the little microswitch on the button deck isn’t bypassed or depressed you will get a “M” indicator.
The pictures show my jumper and both connectors.  I looked at that wire multiple times and the way it was only using two pins i figured it was a power wire to feed something.

[Stayouttadabunker]

okay that's good work slotman!
What would be nice now is to outline onto a wiring schematics sheet what you did to make a bypass work.
THAT would be a sticky! 

[Tilt]

Glad you got it figured out and thanks for posting the followup  .

[Slotman]

I tried to attach the PDF that helped save the day but it is too large.Can someone upload it to the FILES section for the next guy?

[474lsa]

So this post was the hail mary I was looking for to find a door open m that was driving me crazy!  A wire had fallen off of the the switch panel microswitch!  The microswitch goes to j44 pins 6 and 11. 

[Slotman]

So this post was the hail mary I was looking for to find a door open m that was driving me crazy!  A wire had fallen off of the the switch panel microswitch!  The microswitch goes to j44 pins 6 and 11.

Yup, that will do it.  It took me days to track it down.You would think that it would trigger a different door open code other than main.

[Tilt]

I tried to attach the PDF that helped save the day but it is too large.Can someone upload it to the FILES section for the next guy?

Is this the drawing of the switch you wanted to post?

[474lsa]

well I certainly appreciate you doing all the work to find this answer!  Tilt, that is the schematic I was looking at too.

[Slotman]

I tried to attach the PDF that helped save the day but it is too large.Can someone upload it to the FILES section for the next guy?

Is this the drawing of the switch you wanted to post?

Yes. That is the elusive microswitch