Author Topic: Need help on 2 044 slant top GKs with 'Door Open B', 'Closure MB' and 'Restart' (Read 6643 times)

Rane420 · « **on:** October 07, 2015, 08:13:55 AM »

Hi all, I just picked up two slant top 044 Game Kings with legacy boards and they both are giving me the same issue. The bill validators aren't active (lights come on, but won't attempt to accept cash) and I assume it is because there is a message on my screen telling me the bill door is both open and closed. Since physics tells me that is unlikely, I'm assuming I may have larger problems to resolve, but not sure where to start.

Is there anything that the casino's might do when taking them out of service that would cause this or is there a list of things that I should check out? I couldn't see a switch to identify when the bill door is open or closed, but know logically one must be there somewhere. It seems too coincidental they would have the same failure at random, so I'm hoping this pretty common and I just don't know what to do... Any help offered is greatly appreciated!

rickhunter · « **Reply #1 on:** October 07, 2015, 09:51:45 AM »

Depends on your validator cage as there is more than one type. I would test the switch on the cash can door. Can you post a picture of your validator cage so I can see what type of switch is being used? Is this machine right out of a casino? Have you cleared and set the game back up?

Rane420 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 07, 2015, 11:31:25 AM »

Thanks Rick.

When I went out to get pictures, I think I spotted the switch in the top left slot of the bill validator cage. The only thing that still seems quite strange is that the switch still seems to be in somewhat working order except that it only toggles the message to show the main door as open or closed (Open Door MB to Open Door B) it seems to have no bearing on the 'Open Door b' message. I had inferred from other posts that this message is related to the validator door, but that may be an inaccurate assumption on my part.

The machine is straight out of a casino and I have not yet done a clear or changed any settings. I have ordered a keyChip #40, so that I will be able to do so, but don't have one at this time. I'm fairly new to the world of slots so this could be something very obvious to those more in the know.

rickhunter · « **Reply #3 on:** October 07, 2015, 12:57:51 PM »

Oh, it's a slant top machine. I am not familiar where the switches are on a slant top. I notice on the photo that the validator door is open. When you close that portion only, does a switch get actuated? If it does, I would trace the switch to see if there's another switch in-line with it and trace it all the way to the backplane. At the very worst, you can always just jumper the connection shut just to get rid of the open B error. It's odd though that you have open B and closure B at the same time. I would go to the backplane and trace every switch to see what's connected. Typically all the switches for these are connected in one place. Sorry I can't pinpoint which connector it is off the top of my head, but it should be easy to figure out by just following a wire from any door switch.

cowboygames · « **Reply #4 on:** October 07, 2015, 02:11:49 PM »

If I'm not mistaken those machines have switches on the lid, the lower door and the cash box enclosure dore. If it's a microswitch then you can simply pull the wires off the switch and short them togetjer to make the machine think that particular door is always closed. If you don't want to do it that way be sure all doors are closed securely. I've been told slant top lids are especially tough to close sometimes

Rane420 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 07, 2015, 04:47:48 PM »

Thanks everyone. All the switches that I can identify seem to be working as I test them. There must just be something I'm not seeing. I do notice that the low battery 1 and 2 have are set to a 1, I'm not sure if that means yes they are low or yes they are good, but I've read a low battery can give false warnings. I'll poke around and see if that goes anywhere and update the post as I rule things out or solve the issue :-)

rickhunter · « **Reply #6 on:** October 07, 2015, 08:27:42 PM »

A "1" means the circuit is closed, in the case of the batteries, means they are good. All the door switches look good except the bill validator door, it should be 1 when the validator door is closed. Can you close the validator door and confirm that it indeed says "1" when you do so?

Rane420 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 08, 2015, 06:51:18 AM »

Sadly, It does not. The only switch that I can find that is specifically activated when the bill door is shut (picture attached) , doesn't change the bill door setting, only the main door setting. I can't find anything that has any impact to the bill validator door at all, which means I can't find anything to trace back and jumper. I'm pretty sure I found an already jumpered set of wires for what would be the coin drawer if these machines had one, but that is about it. I guess my next step will be to see if there is anything I can remove that will give me access to the back side of the cage to see if there are any wires that lead to a switch I can't see from the front.

Rane420 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 08, 2015, 11:32:24 AM »

I did some searching and came up with a parts manual for my machine,. I don't see any switches above and beyond the two I found on my machine, but I didn't see this anywhere in the download repository so I thought I'd post it on here in case it helps someone else out.

rickhunter · « **Reply #9 on:** October 08, 2015, 12:03:19 PM »

Look at page 8 item #11. It is the switch for the bill door. look to see if your is just loose or fell out?

Rane420 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2015, 12:27:00 PM »

I believe that is the switch that I posted a picture of above. When I activate the switch it will toggle the main door to closed, but the bill door remains in an open status. My assumption is that because it is closing the circuit for the main door that the switch functional. I guess there could be more wires attached that complete a second circuit for the bill door. I will try to remove the cash cage and see if that will give me access to the wiring to examine if anything is loose in the back of the switch.

rickhunter · « **Reply #11 on:** October 08, 2015, 01:48:34 PM »

The switch for the main door is position 16 on the drawing. The switch for the validator should be attached to the right side of the main cabinet on a little assembly. And as you lower the validator door, it should actuate it. You may need to remove stuff or poke your head under the cabinet to get access to the left side.

Rane420 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 08, 2015, 08:43:51 PM »

I think we are talking about the same switch. Here are a couple pics of what I'm experiencing. I'm hoping this weekend I can pull the out some of the validator cage and get access to the back of this switch. On the bright side I replaced the batteries in both boards (they showed low) and that got rid of the goofy message that the door was both open and closed. Now it is only annoyingly open.

KirkLasVegas · « **Reply #13 on:** October 09, 2015, 10:31:27 AM »

You missed a switch! the fact the lock is missing on the cashcan door is your problem. The cam that holds that door shut also hits a microswitch.
Install a lock (or twisty) there with the right cam and your "B" door will clear.
Bypass the switch for the validator door as it's a pain in the ass.
Also beware there is a switch in the topbox that will cause a "M" door alarm, topbox must be closed.
Slants can be a real bitch with door alarms

Kirk

Rane420 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 09, 2015, 12:56:13 PM »

THANK YOU!!! I was indeed missing that switch and it makes perfect sense it would be exactly where it is!

Thanks again to Rick and Cowboy for all your help as well! I think we can call this one closed.

Rane420 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 09, 2015, 05:04:56 PM »

In case this turns out beneficial for anyone else I thought I'd include some additional notes. Bypassing the cash cage switch was somewhat challenging so I tracked the wires back to position 5 and 6 of the molex connector that plugs into J10 MPU. In the picture you can see where I stuck a pin through the wires to test it out (success!) but I'll solder them up later.

One more note is I also traced back the connectors to the main door switches which all end up going into position 1 and 5 of the molex connector that plugs into J11 on the MPU. I tried to bypass it as well there, but it was not well thought out to have them constantly show closed. The test button doesn't like to work when it thinks everything is closed up. :-( I think I will still do a bypass, but rig in a toggle so I can register an open status when I want to and not have to bypass each switch individually.

Rane420 · « **Reply #16 on:** October 11, 2015, 02:40:11 AM »

***Use at own risk, when I tried to enable my printer, it changed the behavior of the toggle which means, individual results may vary. By changing back to a disabled printer, all was right with the world***

I thought I'd document one last thing. One of the machines started giving me an open door M. I suspect all my wire tracing knocked something loose and I didn't feel like tracking it down. With all the comments I've seen on open door m issues on slants I decided to try out a bypass rather than fight them for the life of the machine. It seems to be working pretty well so though I'd post some pics and a brief description.

I picked up a toggle switch from Home Depot and ran jumpers from the two green wires (position 1 and 5) on J11 of the back plane board. Removed the game board, drilled a whole and mounted it all up. Now I can manually throw the switch whenever I want to bypass all the door sensors or toggle it back to the standard configuration if I get motivated and track down the problem switch. It also gives me the flexibility to trigger the machine into thinking the doors are open when I need to access the test button options.

One additional thing to note is I made the same modification proactively to my working machine which caused a bit of strange behavior. If all the switches are are working and the machine is closed up, the bypass will actually cause an Open Door M message. It doesn't pose an issue as turning the bypass to off puts things back to normal. It is already wired up so that when an open door issue arises I'm a toggle throw away from a solution, but thought I'd mention it.

So I guess what I'm saying is if you have an open door m issue, want a quick fix without pinpointing the exact problem switch, this may help you out.

Rane420 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 11, 2015, 02:57:51 AM »

I couldn't resist one last picture.

Ron (r273) · « **Reply #18 on:** October 11, 2015, 07:10:04 AM »

FYI Rane420 you might want to go back to your #16 post to modify and reduce your pictures so they show up clear. I don't have a
50" PC screen.

(just kidding)

Rane420 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 11, 2015, 08:19:09 AM »

Excellent point Ron :-) when I post direct from my phone and don't tweak the picture first, it tends to go a bit crazy on the resolution. Hopefully these are better.

On a side note, I think the 50 inch pc monitor would be an excellent addition!

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Author Topic: Need help on 2 044 slant top GKs with 'Door Open B', 'Closure MB' and 'Restart' (Read 6643 times)