Coin Optics and Hopper Optic All Read Zero

[rokgpsman]

just my opinion,,,,

The PE+ machine you bought was not working when you got it. And you don't know about its history, what has been done to it in the past, from bad repair attempts to flooding (hopefully neither one). Anyway, when you have something like this the last thing you want to do is to buy "iffy" unknown repair parts and try to fix it. For all you know the parts you bought could be the wrong ones or non-working ones somebody is unloading for a few bucks.

So, I'd only buy known tested-good parts if it was me. And I buy them from someone trustworthy. At least you wouldn't have to worry about those parts and could focus on what else is wrong with your machine.

ebay take-your-chances parts are ok if your machine had been working for you for a while, then it failed and you knew the one part that you needed. But for situations like yours where there could be more than one problem with the machine I think buying parts you know are good would be best. This stuff is frustrating and hard enough without adding additional complications.

[Trooper11040]

Totally agree. I will go with more trusted sources of parts

[rokgpsman]

What are the part numbers of the coin optic boards, both the original set and the replacement set?

[rokgpsman]

so im going thru the MPU and the Motherboard...I'm getting no resistance on R3 and R2...could these possibly be my issue?  I get the continuity on the backside of the board though...so I don't know....anyone know any one who repairs these boards if there are issues?

Those 10k resistors are part of the U1 eeprom circuit. If they aren't broken you probably just aren't getting your meter leads connected right, or your meter is reading the parallel path thru the U1 internally. The only true way to verify a resistor is to unsolder and lift one end of it, then measure. Otherwise it is connected to other stuff in parallel and that will lower the resistance you measure.

The eeprom on the motherboard is there for security reasons, the casino or gaming regulators require a way to detect if someone has swapped the mpu board or game software. The eeprom stores some data about the machine, on power-up this data is compared to what is really in the machine and if different a fault is declared. Since your machine powers up ok and you get the video slot game on the screen then I don't think you have a problem with this U1 circuit. But you can try another motherboard if you want to prove it for sure.

What did you figure out about the red & wire wires near your motherboard that are not connected? Are they for optional equipment no longer installed and not important, or for something else?

[Trooper11040]

The 2 optics I have are numbered:
75305101 Rev A 1692 PCA (one I picked up)
75305100 A 9017 T1 (Original in game)


I never figure out what those red/black wires did

[rokgpsman]

Where exactly do the other ends of the red & black wires connect to?

[Trooper11040]

No clue. They were under the motherboard when I opened up the machine for the first time

[rokgpsman]

No clue. They were under the motherboard when I opened up the machine for the first time

So they don't connect to the motherboard, but run to the back somewhere, maybe back to where the power interface is (the panel with the fuses, ac line filter, power switch, etc)?

[rokgpsman]

Here is a troubleshooting chart I found for Coin-In Timeout problems on PE+ machines, hopefully it will apply to your machine. You can download it by clicking on the filename below the photo, in case that makes it easier to view.

I *think* the only real difference in your PE+ and the "normal" PE+ we usually deal with will be the player pushbuttons and associated wiring. A PE+ poker machine has several more buttons than your video slot PE+. So hopefully the coin comparitor and coin optics stuff is the same.

[Trooper11040]

It’s very possible. They come off the harness J3

[rokgpsman]

PE+ secondary power supply voltages, some of this is what provides power to the coin optics boards:

[Trooper11040]

What’s funny is I also have a coin out timeout error too lol. That optic is also new as of Friday and not working

[rokgpsman]

What’s funny is I also have a coin out timeout error too lol. That optic is also new as of Friday and not working

Perhaps the timeout errors are all related to the same problem, like a missing voltage or broken wire, bad connector somewhere? I think the various optic parts all use the same power voltage, called "VB". It is derived from the main power xfmr secondary 7vac output, goes thru fuse F1, then thru the motherboard, then gets rectified someplace to create the DC voltage VB.

Coin-Out Timeout error troubleshooting chart below:

[Badbaud]

If the low volt DC voltage is low or not present then most optics won't work.
The Vbb isolated voltage for external parts like optics and front display is generated on the main computer board.
Not having a tester to take measurements "open face" you could tack solder a wire on each side of the on board Tranzorb diode for Vb then plug the board in and read across the wires.
There should be 7 or 8 volts there.
If there is not then it could be a bad power diode by the tray transformer or a bad Vb filter capacitor or a Tranzorb that is conducting (and probably getting hot).

[rokgpsman]

It’s very possible. They come off the harness J3

When you bought the new coin comparitor wiring harness and installed it, where did you connect it to on the door? Can you post a photo showing the inside of the door, showing the coin comparitor and surrounding area, including where the coin comparitor cable is connected?

[rokgpsman]

I took a look at a PE+ machine that I have access to, it isn't the exact machine as yours but maybe it is similar enough to be helpful:

1) I removed the coin comparitor from the machine and powered-up the machine. With the door open I pressed the white Self-TEST button to enter the Test/Setup menus screens. On the SelfTest Inputs screen the A, B, C coin optic inputs were all a "1". I dropped a coin thru the coin optic boards and the B & C inputs changed from 1 to 0 then back to 1 quickly as the coin passed thru. Next I folded a piece of paper to the width of a nickel and stuck it in-between the coin optic boards, the B and C coin optic inputs changed to 0 and stayed there until I removed the paper, then they went back to a "1" with the paper removed. Lastly, I pressed the little switch on the coin optic board and the B coin optic input changed to a "0". So having a coin comparitor in the machine or not in the machine doesn't affect the coin optic boards.

2) The PE+ machine I was using has a hopper that has an optic coin out sensor. On the selftest inputs screen the coin out sensor is normally a "1". I took the folded piece of paper and stuck it between the coin out sensor arms (they form an upside-down U) and the coin out input changed from a "1" to a "0".

3) I followed the wiring harness from the coin optic board back to the right where it connected to a larger connector on the inside of the door. I disconnected that connector, which disconnected all connections going to the coin optic board. Then I powered up the machine, pressed the white TEST button to get into selftest inputs screen and now all of the coin optic inputs and coin out input were showing a "0", just like your machine. (they should be showing a "1")

So, I think you could be missing the voltage/voltages needed to operate the coin optic boards. The optic board has a 10 pin connector called J50, I believe pin 1 is at the bottom and pin 10 at the top. On the PE+ I was messing with it has about 9volts DC on the optic board connector pin 8 with the meter black lead connected to pin 7, which is a green ground wire. This 9 volts DC is called "+Vb" on the PE+ drawing I looked at (maybe on other drawings it is "Vbb).

Since your hopper coin out optic sensor is also not working right then I don't think the problem is your coin optic boards or the wiring going to them. I think the problem is further upstream, somewhere that whatever is wrong is affecting not just the coin optic boards but also the hopper coin out sensor. Something that is keeping thr +Vb voltage from being made or from getting out to the hopper and the inside of the main door. That can mean your mpu board is bad, or the motherboard.

As badbaud said, these optic parts get their voltage from the mpu board, which makes it from the ac voltage coming thru the motherboard from the power transformer. When measuring voltages you may not be able to connect the meter ground (black) lead to machine chassis ground, the power supply voltages may be isolated (for safety) and the low side is floating, I'm not sure. So I put my meter ground lead on the optic board connector pin 7 gnd (a green wire) to measure the 9 volts DC (+Vb) on pin 8.

[Badbaud]

If the voltage is good on the MPU board across the Vb Tranzorb then the harness coming out of the side of the tray and heads to the door wiring may have a bad crimp on a pin.
Brings back dreaded memories of trying to find a open wire or bad crimp on that large connector as years of wear with the door opening and closing actually breaks wires in the loom or at the pin.

[Trooper11040]

Here are some photos of the door itself

[rokgpsman]

Since your hopper coin out optic sensor is also not working right then I don't think the problem is your coin optic boards or the wiring going to them. I think the problem is further upstream, somewhere that whatever is wrong is affecting not just the coin optic boards but also the hopper coin out sensor. Something that is keeping thr +Vb voltage from being made or from getting out to the hopper and the inside of the main door. That can mean your mpu board is bad, or the motherboard or some wiring/connector further back. Keep in mind your hopper coin out sensor isn't getting power either.

[Trooper11040]

Since your hopper coin out optic sensor is also not working right then I don't think the problem is your coin optic boards or the wiring going to them. I think the problem is further upstream, somewhere that whatever is wrong is affecting not just the coin optic boards but also the hopper coin out sensor. Something that is keeping thr +Vb voltage from being made or from getting out to the hopper and the inside of the main door. That can mean your mpu board is bad, or the motherboard or some wiring/connector further back. Keep in mind your hopper coin out sensor isn't getting power either.

unfortunately I have to agree....it will be tough finding a new MPU and motherboard for this machine