Fortune 1 project

[Phan000]

Got a fortune 1 as an addition to some more promising machines in a lot. Seller stated DOA.

On power up,  there was a short by the power switch, blew the house GFI.

I adjusted the power switch away from the cabinet, and the short stopped.

Cabinet lighting turns on, top fan and coin reject coil powers up.  Nothing else.

No led light on the bottom cabinet board, or on the main board.

The monitor is ceronix,  but looks like it has been replaced at some point.  The original harness was spliced into a new one.  Monitor board has some burn marks near one of the capacitors.

Anything I can look at to see if the boards are still functional?

[Phan000]

Main board.  No battery leakage that I can see.

[shortrackskater]

Have you throughly inspected the wiring? The debris I see in the back of the cabinet looks a bit like maybe a mouse or rat was in there at one time?

[Phan000]

I think the dust is from bugs.  Wiring is a little brittle,  but no obvious issues.

I got the machine to play blind.  I don’t see a sound board.

No static or any light at all in the monitor.

[shortrackskater]

I think the dust is from bugs.  Wiring is a little brittle,  but no obvious issues.

I got the machine to play blind.  I don’t see a sound board.

No static or any light at all in the monitor.

We need a CRT expert... I'll PM Chris.

[Chris-socal]

That is a Ceronix 1492 monitor. That board can be reworked easily. They don’t have many caps. Even if it needs to be replaced it won’t break the bank. KLar or I can help with that board. Feel free to message either one of us. All you need to do is pull the board and ship it to one of us.

If you know how to solder there are only about 10 critical caps on that board. But they should all be replaced….except the big filter caps, they almost never need replacing.

F1s don’t need the battery, it only retains credits if the user doesn’t cash out….however, most F1s are live pay.

Chris

[Chris-socal]

BTW the burnt components indicate a problem with the power circuit and must be resolved, otherwise the 5184 will hold the entire board in shut-down. Sorry I forgot to address that in my original response.

[Phan000]

Thanks for the reply.

There is definitely an issue with power.  There must be a short somewhere, as it is  still popping the gfi sometimes.   Not sure why it is not just popping the red breakers inside.

Which  leads to the monitor should I check to see if it is getting power?

[Chris-socal]

The monitor should be powered by an isolation transformer which is usually inside the game. If it connected directly to the main it will cause all kinds of things popping and blowing up, including the diode and resistor that you showed in the photo.

I suppose someone replaced the original monitor and bypassed the isolation transformer. Trace the wires that power the monitor and see where they go.

I would stop messing with the machine when powered on until you confirm the monitor is on an isolation transformer.

Chris

[Phan000]

There are two transformers  in the base.  The monitor harness does lead to the left one.  Monitor is dated 1995, so was definitely replaced,  but looks like it was probably wired correctly.

What is the best way to test the harness and transformer for power?  I will be wanting to recap the monitor,  just want to make sure there isn’t a power issue first.

[Chris-socal]

If it has power coming out if it it’s working. It should essentially test the same voltage as what is coming out of your wall outlet. The transformer is a 1:1 ratio so if it burned a winding it just wouldn’t work.
You can probably proceed getting the monitor board repaired.

Chris

[Phan000]

I bought a junk fortune one for parts, hoping to make my first machine fully functional.

I put the junk machine monitor in, and it works fairly well. Edges aren’t very sharp, but everything is legible.

The cards on the game do not line up with the screen burn cards. Adjusting the pots does not seem to change this.  The screen is also slightly off center to the right.  Is there a diifferent way to adjust this?

I moved the sound board from the junk machine to my original one, and added the wiring.   Still no sound.  I swapped speakers. No change.

Sound board isn’t particularly clean. Do these tend to fail?

Good news is that everything else works great.  Game plays and pays properly.

[Chris-socal]

Its possible the game board isn’t outputting sound to the amplifier.

[Badbaud]

The game board does not produce the sounds. The sound board mounted under the monitor shelf produces the sounds which are selected via the H11A1 opto-transistor isolators on the sound board.

[Phan000]

Photo of sound board attached.

It is getting power, as the radiator vanes get fairly warm.  Pot does turn,  but does not change any sounds.

I tried re-seating all the EPROMs and the memory.  No change.

Is there a particular capacitor that usually dies, or full replacement recommended?

[Badbaud]

Yes, the 1uF 25V capacitor is missing, I see 2 empty pads (C 13?) right below the amplifier chip as seen in your photo.
Finally, the H11A1 chips fail. I usually replace all 6.

[Phan000]

Almost done with this project.  I got a replacement sound board and swapped the chips.

The only sounds are some different whoops during coin-in.

Is there supposed to be any deal/draw or win sounds?

[shortrackskater]

My makes a different sound for each single coin bet. If I press Play 5 coins  it just spits out all 5 sounds together.
Mine has no sound on a win situation; you just hear the clicking of the meter.
Can you make a video and post so we can hear yours?

[Phan000]

Seems right then.  Thought there would be sounds for other actions.  Cool enough I guess

If I want to switch the game to the one from my junk machine,  which EPROMs get swapped?

Thinking if I put the other game in,  the screen burn would match a little better as that was the game that caused the burn on this monitor.

[Badbaud]

000-7FF, 800-FFF, BOTH CGO CHIPS