S-2000 NON-Enhanced Permanent Main Door Bypass

[RED7]

Hope this helps.. Nothing more frustrating then a "DOOR OPEN M" Error when the door is closed!

Thought I would share my personal fix to this issue. I have completed this mod on all my boards and they are working great. I may have been more specific then I need to be, but
nothing beats a detailed "How-To" for someone that doesn't have experience.

I am not looking to take away from other posts on this same topic. There are some great tips, that other members have worked hard on, and spent there time to post there findings.
This solution isn't for everyone, but simply an alternative for those stubborn boards.

You will require some special tools, although with u-Tube and Google I'm sure you'll find many ways to do the same thing.

Some tools I use.

Weller Soldering Iron
WER-858D Re-Work Station
Lead Based Solder
Flux Pen
Tweezers
Kimtech Wipes
Rubbing Alcohol
Tooth Brush (Colgate)

Parts Required:
2 x "O" Ohm resistors (can use any 1/4 Resistor, mainly just need the leads to make things much easier.
1 x 12" Length of wire 18-26 AWG will be fine
1 x Toggle Switch (small one if fine ON/OFF)

It does go without mentioning, but for new members, and new machine owners. Please remove the Green Varta Battery First. Its the main reason for this problem!

If you try it out, or have questions.. please let me know..

Steve...


***Note: ther is a detailed pdf file to download above the jpg picture below this note***

[Tilt]

Great work!     This could save a lot S2000 boards from the scrap bin.  Thanks for sharing and for the detailed instructions.   

[RB]

Steve, Thanks so much for posting this. I have a stack of failed 500 series boards. I'm no electronics tech but do have basic soldering skills. Am I missing something? I only see one resistor used. You list two. Also did you install the jumper from U62 to U67 in the pic.? I have a 501, a few 502 & several 504 boards & none have that jumper. Kudos for your effort & sharing this info.

 

[Amechanic]

Steve, Thanks so much for posting this. I have a stack of failed 500 series boards. I'm no electronics tech but do have basic soldering skills. Am I missing something? I only see one resistor used. You list two. Also did you install the jumper from U62 to U67 in the pic.? I have a 501, a few 502 & several 504 boards & none have that jumper. Kudos for your effort & sharing this info.

 

RB.. If you read under his parts needed, it says he used the resistors leads for ease of connecting.. 

Is it possible to get a close up of the solder connection..

[RED7]

Steve, Thanks so much for posting this. I have a stack of failed 500 series boards. I'm no electronics tech but do have basic soldering skills. Am I missing something? I only see one resistor used. You list two. Also did you install the jumper from U62 to U67 in the pic.? I have a 501, a few 502 & several 504 boards & none have that jumper. Kudos for your effort & sharing this info.

 

In regards to the resistors. You really don't need any. But it makes it much easier and cleaner to solder the leads to the pins of U69 from there you can attach you wires. If I get some time I will possibly make a quick video.

As far as Chip U67. This chip is used on the board to communicate with with Door input module. If you have an error " Coin input Jam" and nothing seems to fix the issue, then most likely this chip has gone bad. I did order some new ones on-line. I have seen other posts on this problem. These chips in most cases when go bad they blow a hole in them. So its easy to tell. When I DE-soldered the only chip pin 16 Pad was very corroded, so I added a jumper wire to correct that.

Thanks for your reply..

PLEASE IF YOU TRY THIS BYPASS, remember to remove chips U25, U60, U61. and double check all solder joints at U69. With the right tools, this can be completed in less then 30 minutes or less.

Steve

[Amechanic]

Steve... I just found and read the PDF file.. I didn't see it at first on top of the posts picture.. Very nicely written and detailed pictures.. Thanks for the hard work.. I would need to practice on a junk acid damaged board on the removal of those surface mounted chips..

Gary

[RB]

Gary, I totally missed that PDF file too. I'm so glad you pointed that out! That explains a lot.

 

[Amechanic]

I didn't see it at first either. I was talking with Erb on the phone tonight, and he's the person that told me where it was.

[RED7]

Steve... I just found and read the PDF file.. I didn't see it at first on top of the posts picture.. Very nicely written and detailed pictures.. Thanks for the hard work.. I would need to practice on a junk acid damaged board on the removal of those surface mounted chips..

Gary

Thanks, I appreciate it. I know a lot of people have boards kicking around, this will give some of them new life. The PDF is hard to see on the original post. I tried to see if I could move it but no luck. Maybe a moderator can get in there and fix it up so people can see it better. It explains the private messages in regards to "How to modify" I was thinking, the PDF has all the info. LOL.

There are a lot of great uTube videos on how to desolder SMD chips. With just a basic soldering iron. If anyone has questions don't hesitate.

As well, this site has been a saving grace for me when I was a newbie. Everyone is extremely helpful. I don't make it on here as much as I would like. I am currently working on finding the bug with the door input modules (Coin in Jam Error). When completed I will let you all know.

I do ask, for those who find the info useful and are able to get some old boards working. I wouldn't be able to get you this information with out NLG. They can always use a helping hand to cover the site costs.

Steve



 

[Amechanic]

Steve.
One other thing that would be helpful was if you could point out what controls the reel spins. I have one board that is bad due to a reel tilt on reel #1.. I know these boards are capable if running 4 & 5 reel machines. If I knew what chip covered what reel, then I could swap chip from reel 4 or 5 to reel 1 to fix the tilt problem.


Gary

[Retro tech repair]

i just tried this on a board with intermittent optics. the board was damaged not by battery leakage but by harness damage in a machine. i can confirm it does work in this application.

[RED7]

i just tried this on a board with intermittent optics. the board was damaged not by battery leakage but by harness damage in a machine. i can confirm it does work in this application.

Great to hear!

[Tilt]

I performed this mod to a damaged 504 board and it works, thanks!  One thing I noticed afterwards is the bottom candle light is always flashing fast now though.  Is that a side effect of the modification or did I get something wrong? 

[RED7]

Might have missed something, I have not run into a mod where the candle flashes. Glad you got it working, worst case I would just remove bulb from candle?

[Slotman]

I have to say, that writeup is probably one of the best I have ever seen. 

[RED7]

I have to say, that writeup is probably one of the best I have ever seen. 

Thank you, It take a while to get it all figured out. Glad to hear people are able to fix up some older boards. I know back int he day my pile of
working boards was almost empty, ride beside a pile of 10+ boards that were all "Door issues"

Steve

[Tilt]

Might have missed something, I have not run into a mod where the candle flashes. Glad you got it working, worst case I would just remove bulb from candle?

That's what I figured I would do, remove the bulb.  I'll double check everything again and try it on another board and see what happens.  It could be a damaged trace unrelated to the door circuits?   Thanks for taking the time to write this all up

[Retro tech repair]

Candle lights are driven by the cabinet i/o board. If trace damage or a failed mod is causing the light to act funny this is a potentially major problem. For damage to be causing the issue that means it is affecting the senet lines. Every time i do any kind of board work i load up credits on the game and wire the max bet button so it autoplays. I don’t remember how to do this i haven't worked on a slot in probably a year.

[Stayouttadabunker]

Great work RED7!! 
I loved reading your fix! 

I'm pretty sure the work done on my 504 MPU is related to this discussion.
Here's a couple of photo's I've attached of my board.
Click on photos to make larger and to move the copy-write logo covering my pictures...>>>

[Tilt]

Candle lights are driven by the cabinet i/o board. If trace damage or a failed mod is causing the light to act funny this is a potentially major problem. For damage to be causing the issue that means it is affecting the senet lines. Every time i do any kind of board work i load up credits on the game and wire the max bet button so it autoplays. I don’t remember how to do this i haven't worked on a slot in probably a year.

Thanks.  Everything appears to be working just fine, except for the lower candle constantly fast blinking.