Bally 1114 full restoration

[David Walz]

A better view of the issue with the hopper. The height of the end cap is 3" I need a 4" end cap for the hopper.

While I am getting the hopper parts, I might as well order a couple of Beau plugs.

[David Walz]

A lot of little job's that need to be done, since I have to wait on parts I might as well work on getting all four Bally slot machines and the cabinets keyed alike.  I'm still keeping the ABLOY locks, just rekeying everything.

[wolftalk]

reminder that don't recall details on a dollar hopper ... but if ya look at the 5000 manual or later electronic slots, your scoop extender is different - it should slope down more to the top of the end cap.

the only end caps I've seen are part number C-841-4 (the EMs, series E and 5000).  The series V parts manual shows C-841-6

the scoop extender is P-2495-1 or P-2495

in all cases, the edge of the scoop slopes down to the top of the end cap close to the end cap mounting screw hole.  Your scoop has much less slope and way more metal above the screw hole.  'course, they coulda just been lazy on redrawing the diagrams ...

[David Walz]

reminder that don't recall details on a dollar hopper ... but if ya look at the 5000 manual or later electronic slots, your scoop extender is different - it should slope down more to the top of the end cap.

the only end caps I've seen are part number C-841-4 (the EMs, series E and 5000).  The series V parts manual shows C-841-6

the scoop extender is P-2495-1 or P-2495

in all cases, the edge of the scoop slopes down to the top of the end cap close to the end cap mounting screw hole.  Your scoop has much less slope and way more metal above the screw hole.  'course, they coulda just been lazy on redrawing the diagrams ...

I'm working on the problem, I have a inquiry to Monti, to see what he thinks.  Some days I think I'm  .

[David Walz]

I finally found some ABLOY key blanks in Bulgaria! 

[David Walz]

Regarding the IN meter on the reels not working. I discovered a broken wire on the #15 plug position on the small reel plug. It was throwing me off, since the factory original wiring diagram is different than this machine only on the #15 wire. Its 100% factory installed, not some clown playing with the wires, just another Bally anomaly.

This may resolve the problem of the IN meter not working, it's nap time for now. 😊

wire 74-1 broken off would make the "total in" meter not work, and 74-1 should be on pin 15 ... your white arrow is actually pointing to pin 6, so I guess you are just pointing at the whole socket.

if you have a bad pin in a socket, it's fair game to move the wire on both the plug and socket to an unused pin position.  No need to replace a beau plug for one damaged pin.  Ideally add a tag so the next guy knows what you did.

if the problem is a bad pin vs a damaged connector shell, I usually move a good unused pin into the correct location or swipe a good pin from a junk beau plug and keep the wire in it's correct location to match the schematic.   

 tmi
----

it's almost always the case that the wiring on the plugs goes in wire id code numerical order from pin 1 up.  However, design changes or variations in later versions of a model have out-of-sequence wires used - most commonly on unused pins on the base model.

for example, the larger 24 pin reel mech plug on a 1114 doesn't use pins 20-24. 

on the 1114-6 pins 1-19 are identical to the 1114 and pins 20-24 have wires 62-6, 54, 75-7, 94 and 84 on them in that mixed-up order.

the idea was to reuse wiring harness as much as possible (specifically, the nail boards used to make the harnesses) and add wires when needed.

rarely they would leave out wires that weren't needed so there would be unused pins surrounded by used ones.   That usually happened when a machine new model was nearly the same as an existing model (e.g. a 1090 vs a 1091), but the new model would never need the wire in any possible variation (fruit, triple bar, lightning, etc.) or if the new model was a limited pay machine for a specific market.

 

FINALLY the in meter is working!!!

The in meter was not working, I took it apart and rebuilt it, I am just thankful that the coil was in good condition, I have a good amount of parts for rebuilding the meter, however no coils. The meter needed to be lubricated with a special lube I use on safe locks. I have rebuilt several meters, and they are pretty easy peasy. 

Sabrina was helping me out.

[David Walz]

The only thing left is to straighten out the hopper cover, rear cap and that is in the works. Everything is functioning properly, all of the "factory original parts are in place, nothing is missing. 

[David Walz]

Today I received 100 coins, that makes it  a total of 300 coins are in the slot machine. I think that will suffice for the slot machine. 
Spinettis had these coins/tokens for sale, it was a fantastic price, cheapest anywhere on the internet. It's exactly what I needed to run the slot machine. 


 

[David Walz]

The machine is 100% exceeding my expectations. I just enjoy working on these old fossils, bringing them back to life, it is awesome. This was in the worst condition when I found it, now it looks like another machine all together.

[David Walz]

Well, well, well. I finally figured out the situation with the hopper, scoop and the cover.  This is the best outcome, bringing it back to factory original condition. You won't see to many of these slot machines fully dressed  out.

[pearson28]

Great job! Thoroughly enjoyed reading thru your post. I'm doing a minimal resto on my E2000 and enjoy the work, like you. Reminds me of when I restored my '78 GS 750 a bit. Definitely a labor of love.