Author Topic: Door Open MCP (Read 24423 times)

Tilt · « **Reply #20 on:** June 07, 2016, 08:42:43 PM »

No, those are OK. What's on the screen now, does it show the B door as being closed too?

fastedy1 · « **Reply #21 on:** June 07, 2016, 08:48:22 PM »

still showing door open mcb and on the right side closure mc

any other sensors in that area that might cause the issue?

Amechanic · « **Reply #22 on:** June 07, 2016, 08:48:37 PM »

Tilt.. Look at the pictures in post 16 & 17.. I see a pig tail jumper on the door pic where the optics would be, and again laying on the bottom where the coin over flow shoot is. To me it looks like someone has tried to bypass the optics with jumper plugs?? Also the picture of the bottom looks like the door switch is sitting on the bottom right corner, behind where the lowest speaker goes? On the bottom left side on the cabinet are the two optics removed from the machine, one has a broken wire. I don't thing this machine has had the optics jumped / remove correctly?

Gary

fastedy1 · « **Reply #23 on:** June 07, 2016, 09:00:09 PM »

the optics at the bottom of the cabinet are old, the door and cabinet have another set connected. I just left the old set at the bottom of the cabinet, The cabinet optic is plugged into a red/white and a green wire and the door side of the optic is plugged into a purple/black and green wire.

Tilt · « **Reply #24 on:** June 07, 2016, 09:21:03 PM »

I think those may be the jumpers shown in the attached wiring diagrams.

Fastedy, can you look at the attached drawings and confirm? The third page isn't applicable to your machine, but has the color code legend in the bottom right corner so you can make sure the jumpers are where they should be.

Also what's your history with this machine? Did it ever work or did you get it this way? You're also missing a sample coin in the comparitor.

fastedy1 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 07, 2016, 09:37:54 PM »

The color codes look right for the jumped wires in the top of the door and the lower part of the cabinet but the lower optic on the door wiring is black/purple and blue/green and is plugged into the sensor, the lower cabinet optic is plugged into a red/white and green set. and I bought the game this way, I think the owner was trying to repair it and made things worse, that's how I got it for $100.00

fastedy1 · « **Reply #26 on:** June 07, 2016, 09:45:55 PM »

I miss read the diagram, I see the blue/orange and green go to the cash drawer detect switch, those have a jumper, not the red/white and green to the lower optics on the cabinet for the door closure. Sorry

Tilt · « **Reply #27 on:** June 08, 2016, 05:32:34 AM »

Sorry, I somehow missed that in your original post. You got a good deal on it!

Does the state of the main door change when you open and close it? Look where it says closure MC. Open the main door and does it change to just closure C, then to Closure MC when the door is closed again?

Here's a wiring diagram for the bill validator connections to the motherboard. Pull connector J9 off the motherboard and check for continuity on pins 5 & 6 of P9. That's the other end of the wiring from the bill validator switch you bypassed.

fastedy1 · « **Reply #28 on:** June 08, 2016, 08:29:56 AM »

I did get a great deal on it! I can't wait to get it working. I will check the voltages after work, I did open and close the door, no change on the display, it almost seems like it's in a frozen state in Game Mode, but I can access menus when the reset key is turned or if I press the white button on the main board. I am waiting on a 22 chip to see if that helps with anything, I downloaded the steps on using it from the site as well.

Thanks for all the help!

Amechanic · « **Reply #29 on:** June 08, 2016, 09:03:26 AM »

You might want to check the door optics adjustment. I like to take a piece of blue painters tape and put one piece one the cabinet, the second pieces on the door by the optics. Now make a center point line on each tape piece. Make sure the locking slide bar is all the way down when marking the door. Now close the door and see if the 2 marks line up. This has made it easy for me to set the optics..

fastedy1 · « **Reply #30 on:** June 08, 2016, 09:09:15 AM »

I will give it a shot,

Thanks Amechanic!

fastedy1 · « **Reply #31 on:** June 08, 2016, 07:34:58 PM »

Hello,

The optics look to be lined up now, I used my camera on the door optic and I could see it lite but the optic on the cabinet was not. I am unable to find J9 the labeling is warn off or I am just not seeing them.

Amechanic · « **Reply #32 on:** June 08, 2016, 09:10:17 PM »

Quote from: fastedy1 on June 08, 2016, 07:34:58 PM

Hello,
The optics look to be lined up now, I used my camera on the door optic and I could see it lite but the optic on the cabinet was not. I am unable to find J9 the labeling is warn off or I am just not seeing them.

I believe that only one of the doors optics should show a beam, the other one is a receiver. Did adjusting them change any thing?

jonm287 · « **Reply #33 on:** June 09, 2016, 05:15:41 AM »

Go into the operator menu (white pushbutton on cpu), go into diagnostics, I/O, and then processor board diagnostics. There is a line for the main door LED optic. IGT uses pulsed optics for it's door security. Normal closed operation will show that line constantly going back and forth between 1 and 0. You can also check the receiver side by shining a flashlight over the receiver. Normal will show 0, shining a light on it will show a 1.

Even if the optics were bad, that would not keep all 3 doors open. Those door switches aren't software controlled, I would not consider a RAM clear to be helpful in this case, especially since you can go into menus. If it were locked up you wouldn't be able to do that.

jonm287 · « **Reply #34 on:** June 09, 2016, 05:32:33 AM »

Oh, and having seen pictures of what you have, disregard what I said about switching the I/O cards, your machine predates that setup. Your unit has a single large I/O board sitting below your monitor. You got a really good picture of it. Everything that involves a switch on your machine, whether it's an optic, push button, door switch or whatever, goes through that board. Going into your operator menu lets you test all of those.

I didn't notice if you replied to this question or not, but did you check for a door switch behind the belly door? That switch is wired in series with the door optic, and if it is grounding to the cabinet it will cause all of those door switches to show open. My theory is, your BV door switch is working as it should, since it does not show up on the door closure side, and that the problem is going to be either in the main door harness (definitely check the switch and wires behind the belly door!) or the cashbox switch harness (the one behind the cashbox housing, it looks like it was already pulled out since there's still a spade connector on the switch according to the picture).

Edit: I looked a bit more closely at the cashbox switch, and there are two green colored wires running behind the switch, can barely see them. That could be the culprit. See if you can pull them out and check them.

Tilt · « **Reply #35 on:** June 09, 2016, 05:47:31 AM »

Here's a connector diagram that shows J9's location on the motherboard.

fastedy1 · « **Reply #36 on:** June 09, 2016, 07:37:53 AM »

Good Morning!

I checked that green wire behind the cash box sensor, it leads behind the bill validator, you can see it in the picture I attached, also there are 2 connectors not being used is that normal?

And the tape worked great to align the optics at the door, the cabinet optic was a bit low, I made the adjustment so they are aligned well now.

Thanks guys!

I hope to have time again after work to check other items.

Also the sensor for the belly door has a jumper on it.

fastedy1 · « **Reply #37 on:** June 09, 2016, 06:29:39 PM »

Tilt, 5 & 6 of P9 tested OK for continuity... I am picking up another bill validator and cashbox this weekend, just in case, plus it's good to have extra parts.

jonm287 · « **Reply #38 on:** June 09, 2016, 06:53:36 PM »

The empty connectors on the bv harness are normal, no worries there.

fastedy1 · « **Reply #39 on:** June 09, 2016, 06:59:46 PM »

Thanks jonm287,,,

So tonight I also shined a flashlight at the optics sensor on the cabinet, no change on the screen. I also found the ground wires to the button lights were not all connected and the wire had been cut at the end so I will need to splice in to complete the ground to the last button. Not a big deal though.

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Author Topic: Door Open MCP (Read 24423 times)